This stuff is amazing. I'm using this on a Smyth Ute conversion in addition to the rivets they have you assemble it with. The rivets aren't much more than a fastening device until it cures. The riveted piece feels fairly solid after it's installed, but once the 'bond sets you can tap the piece and have it reverberate thru the car. Definitely a big fan of 3m products.
If it's cured you're stuck like chuck. I wiped some off with a little brake cleaner and a rag that oozed out of a seam. I just looked for you, and the PDF said MEK/toluene for a solvent (uncured)
I've used wax and degreaser when it's still wet. 400° I believe is the release temp when cured. To my knowledge, there is no solvent that loosens cured adhesive.
I find it as a 50/50 I've seen glues break down after time what happens 5-10 years down the road ? If I was restoring a car I would weld it and like to try to do my very best since it is a restoration and want it to last as long as possible but if it just for a few years then glue is probably faster ... But remember that a restoration is a total restoration couple years letting fillers, primers, puddy, paints, etc. dry properly... Because everything sinks the more time and care you put into a project the better it will last ... Take a piece of Primed metal draw a line in the center sand one half with 400 sand paper then sand the other half with 120 grit sandpaper then paint the the metal till it looks great then let it sit a couple months then take a look at it you will slowly see sanding scratches where it was sanded with the 120 sand paper and eventually they will get deeper as time goes by...
Panel bond only fails if the area wasn't prepped correctly and it takes a full 24 hours to cure so it really isn't faster. However, you will have ghost lines in certain weather, but you can eliminate that by taking a body hammer and slightly knocking the seams down like you would a welded lap patch and then apply filler
I've used it on classic Mustang quarter panels with no issues. Prep and bond everything the same way. I still prefer to weld the ends and the jambs though
No, I wouldn't do it, unless you can mold some metal into the fiberglass so the steel have something bond too.. it's better if it metal on metal they have a fiberglass bond for panel bond
@@johnolsson3997 Sounds like that's what I want. I'm doing a Smythe Ute kit on a VW (it's a neat kit check out the 5min condensed build vid) and I dont want to use rivets to hold the (fiberglass)body panels on because they always pop thru the bodywork.
I've used 8115 for years to bond fiberglass parts to steel panels with no issues. Even had to repair a wrecked customer car and the bond held well. These aren't structural parts though. Only cosmetic.
What's the best way to apply panel bond adhesives? Watch this video from 3M Technical Service Engineer, Shawn Collins explain the best practices for getting the perfect collision repair.
Yeah, but no, you have have tap the panel around, what is say to bend out the panel you putting on the car, to bend out the wheel arch a little so it's a little easier to lay the quarter panel on.
Christopher Brewer Its only a 3 minute vid for a home job or Hack 10 year old car sales guy who cares less,just this and a short paragraph off the box.Its not a whole 3m seminar that a owner might send their body guys to.Sometimes the 3m reps get sent out to teach them and sell its advantages.
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This stuff is amazing.
I'm using this on a Smyth Ute conversion in addition to the rivets they have you assemble it with.
The rivets aren't much more than a fastening device until it cures.
The riveted piece feels fairly solid after it's installed, but once the 'bond sets you can tap the piece and have it reverberate thru the car.
Definitely a big fan of 3m products.
What solvent is used to remove this adhesive, other than heat?
If it's cured you're stuck like chuck.
I wiped some off with a little brake cleaner and a rag that oozed out of a seam.
I just looked for you, and the PDF said MEK/toluene for a solvent (uncured)
I've used wax and degreaser when it's still wet. 400° I believe is the release temp when cured. To my knowledge, there is no solvent that loosens cured adhesive.
do you recomend grinding off the primer where the adhesive is going to go, or making it rough or just putting over the primer?
If it's epoxy I would sand it a bit with course paper or grind it but epoxy is like a rust proofing that you can do body work over...
Can you use this for rocker panels or should I always weld them?
I find it as a 50/50 I've seen glues break down after time what happens 5-10 years down the road ?
If I was restoring a car I would weld it and like to try to do my very best since it is a restoration and want it to last as long as possible but if it just for a few years then glue is probably faster ... But remember that a restoration is a total restoration couple years letting fillers, primers, puddy, paints, etc. dry properly... Because everything sinks the more time and care you put into a project the better it will last ...
Take a piece of Primed metal draw a line in the center sand one half with 400 sand paper then sand the other half with 120 grit sandpaper then paint the the metal till it looks great then let it sit a couple months then take a look at it you will slowly see sanding scratches where it was sanded with the 120 sand paper and eventually they will get deeper as time goes by...
Panel bond only fails if the area wasn't prepped correctly and it takes a full 24 hours to cure so it really isn't faster. However, you will have ghost lines in certain weather, but you can eliminate that by taking a body hammer and slightly knocking the seams down like you would a welded lap patch and then apply filler
Some rocker panels must be welded because it’s part of a crumple zone if it is panel bonded it will not perform properly in a collision.
never heard of a rocker panel skin being part of a crumple zone before.@@scotfirehamer4247
Is this method applicable in classic car restoring?
I've used it on classic Mustang quarter panels with no issues. Prep and bond everything the same way. I still prefer to weld the ends and the jambs though
Can this be used to bond a steel panel to fibreglass for kit car construction?
No, I wouldn't do it, unless you can mold some metal into the fiberglass so the steel have something bond too.. it's better if it metal on metal they have a fiberglass bond for panel bond
@@johnolsson3997
Sounds like that's what I want.
I'm doing a Smythe Ute kit on a VW (it's a neat kit check out the 5min condensed build vid) and I dont want to use rivets to hold the (fiberglass)body panels on because they always pop thru the bodywork.
I've used 8115 for years to bond fiberglass parts to steel panels with no issues. Even had to repair a wrecked customer car and the bond held well. These aren't structural parts though. Only cosmetic.
What's the best way to apply panel bond adhesives?
Watch this video from 3M Technical Service Engineer, Shawn Collins explain the best practices for getting the perfect collision repair.
A wonderful product,it is nice to know,
God bless you sir,
confused wouldnt the outer panel fit over the inner panel it looks like when you are holding them that its reversed?
Yeah, but no, you have have tap the panel around, what is say to bend out the panel you putting on the car, to bend out the wheel arch a little so it's a little easier to lay the quarter panel on.
Will this work well with 3m tape?
Minnesota native?
Yes Chris, how could you tell? Slight accent? thanks for viewing.
Super
I'm thinking gutters on the house.
A bad video on how to apply! Please show with real panel on a real truck or car!
Christopher Brewer
Its only a 3 minute vid for a home job or Hack 10 year old car sales guy who cares less,just this and a short paragraph off the box.Its not a whole 3m seminar that a owner might send their body guys to.Sometimes the 3m reps get sent out to teach them and sell its advantages.