Here’s a great additional video to determine the differences between die polish (from when the coins were minted) and man made hairlines (abrasions caused by brush or other tooling): ruclips.net/video/3CSeQsmNCYw/видео.htmlsi=WMTuVftHsnpazKVw
I think you have to really know the particulars of each series of coins. Sometimes coin series are known for weak strikes, which often gets confused for wear. The David Bowers guide books can be helpful in sorting it out. I think the graded PR64 is indeed a PR64. Any wear you are perceiving is likely just some softness in the strike. I see it a lot in Barber half dollar proofs. Very common in the reverse right wing and right talon.
Absolutely. Good to get an eye for wear vs a softer strike. Completely agree on the seated proof dime with its grade. Heavy die polish, strong strike, and a tad hazy but a neat coin that definitely needs CACs attention.
Clue:......... Microscope ........ Hairlines are recessed, die polishing lines are raised above the surface. Either can extend in different directions and be in the fields and on the devices. BOTH are essentially "man-made". Simple as that. Educate yourself on "whizzing" also. Morgan dollars are a great way to learn about "wear vs. strike weakness". Too many collectors depend on grading services instead of educating themselves.
I have some old coins from the 1800's from other countries my grandfather gave to me and I want to know where I could go to find out if there worth anything
The 1866 pr64 half is my favorite however the 1912 V nickel had my attention, I would be proud to own any of them in a doily holder or any holder. The reminder to view the coin in light from different angles helps me feel comfortable about what im looking at overall with these high grades. Identifying die lines versus clean lines, with natural light and artificial, can be obvious and at times more difficult in my encounters. I give you big credit for showing up with what seems like the best of best so im always impressed and learning more about what to look for on these choice picks. I have bought proof cameo franklin(s) in PCGS holders that turned spotted within a few days held in a 68° environment with the rest of my coins. I received the coin with 0 milk spots and looked terrible when I checked a few days later. Since then I have had reasonable luck with proof coins, recently bought a 1938 Mercury dime in PR-62, the coin is in a fresh holder and looks undergraded in my opinion so very pleased.
I got burned by JB coins inc when I purchased a 1882-cc Morgan silver dollar in a GSA slab for 575 and was never told or disclosed the very obvious cleaning/hairlines that are on the coin and because of this it will not straight grade. I would have not purchased it if it was shown or mentioned all together.
Proofs are made for collectors they are a bette quality coin . The hairlines are due to heavy polish marks wich are left after they polish the dies before use . somtimes the planchet is prepared with more care for better strike. The proofs can be struck upto 6 times . proofs dosnt always cameo or have mirror fields. Some early milled coins (1600s) a proof can just be a better quality strike for type as alot were struck on crude planchet due to technology available for purity n minting techniques. Harlines shouldn't got over the fileds onto the device any harlines on the device can be a singh of cleaning . You can get a baggy coin ms61 that looks bad with harlines but this could have been caused by falling in the hopper and bagging the coins at the mint . Intresting video its all down to exsperince . one good thing the uk has is alot of raw coins helps learn what to look out for as grsding n sending g my coins to ngc can be exspensive especially with postage there and back . I only send things im more or less sure ill get the grade if not im wasting my money and time it takes around 4 months for them to return.
I think PCGS has been way too quick to grade coins as UNC Details -- Cleaned Lately. I had a coin found in circulation in the early 1980s. I had it in a flip and recently submitted it... came back UNC Details - Cleaned and I know for a fact since 1982 it has not been out of a flip. Last submission was about 50% Genuine Details........ Grrrr... Can't wait to meet you at the next coin show in NTX.
You are asking a lot from Albanese and crew to get it right. I see many CAC handled coins that get denied for things that are trifles made into rejections. I have CAC coins that in no way should have passed their examination. I would never grade any coin with them directly. I also would not follow your business model trying to get next to them as if they are the best in the business. PCGS is my 1st preference for grading. My buyers tell me that I know what is best as they pay me the most money for PCGS accurately graded coins with CAC as a 2nd opinion.
Mnnn dime has scatchs, haze and won't cac. Why did you buy it??? As far as old proofs it is because there was no good way to keep coins. Ever heard of drawer rub? Coins were put into cabinets that were felt/material lined so as you pulled the drawer the coin would slide. The 20 cent was at the least (dipped) Too bad you didn't put these under a scope to show the hairlines to the subscribers. 20 power will really help you notice the hairlines and use a good halogen.
You make mention of PVC and the toning effects that it environmentally speaking have on a coin. Well, the Saddle Ridge Hoard (in the ground) and all those shipwreck coins came up from the ocean bottom with all kinds of environmental surface damage and they were all treated and graded. So any discussion to me about PVC damage should be mitigated or accepted by these grading companies to maintain some average level of coin treatment standards. These graders will restore a coin and then slab it as cleaned or conserved when shipwreck coins are just fine to be graded when chemically treated prior to grading. This 2-tier system conservation grading and treatment thing is thoroughly despicable.
Here’s a great additional video to determine the differences between die polish (from when the coins were minted) and man made hairlines (abrasions caused by brush or other tooling):
ruclips.net/video/3CSeQsmNCYw/видео.htmlsi=WMTuVftHsnpazKVw
I think you have to really know the particulars of each series of coins. Sometimes coin series are known for weak strikes, which often gets confused for wear. The David Bowers guide books can be helpful in sorting it out. I think the graded PR64 is indeed a PR64. Any wear you are perceiving is likely just some softness in the strike. I see it a lot in Barber half dollar proofs. Very common in the reverse right wing and right talon.
Absolutely. Good to get an eye for wear vs a softer strike. Completely agree on the seated proof dime with its grade.
Heavy die polish, strong strike, and a tad hazy but a neat coin that definitely needs CACs attention.
Clue:......... Microscope ........ Hairlines are recessed, die polishing lines are raised above the surface. Either can extend in different directions and be in the fields and on the devices. BOTH are essentially "man-made". Simple as that. Educate yourself on "whizzing" also. Morgan dollars are a great way to learn about "wear vs. strike weakness". Too many collectors depend on grading services instead of educating themselves.
Absolutely. Great comment.
Great video. Thanks for sharing👍
Thank you again, very enlightening.
Great video. Every collector needs a good loop or scope.
Thanks your helping me enjoy my hobby more :)
Are those truly hair lines or are some die polish lines from the mint. Thanks for the video.
Die polishing occurs as the clean the dies and hairlines present themselves when dealers or collectors attempt to remove blemishes with a tool.
Great job sir
I have some old coins from the 1800's from other countries my grandfather gave to me and I want to know where I could go to find out if there worth anything
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
Thank you for watching.
The 1866 pr64 half is my favorite however the 1912 V nickel had my attention, I would be proud to own any of them in a doily holder or any holder. The reminder to view the coin in light from different angles helps me feel comfortable about what im looking at overall with these high grades. Identifying die lines versus clean lines, with natural light and artificial, can be obvious and at times more difficult in my encounters. I give you big credit for showing up with what seems like the best of best so im always impressed and learning more about what to look for on these choice picks. I have bought proof cameo franklin(s) in PCGS holders that turned spotted within a few days held in a 68° environment with the rest of my coins. I received the coin with 0 milk spots and looked terrible when I checked a few days later. Since then I have had reasonable luck with proof coins, recently bought a 1938 Mercury dime in PR-62, the coin is in a fresh holder and looks undergraded in my opinion so very pleased.
Great advice
What kind of coin is the 1912 graded PR63 at the 13:15 minute mark?
Very good information
I got burned by JB coins inc when I purchased a 1882-cc Morgan silver dollar in a GSA slab for 575 and was never told or disclosed the very obvious cleaning/hairlines that are on the coin and because of this it will not straight grade. I would have not purchased it if it was shown or mentioned all together.
I wish you put the hairline coin under a magnifier so we can actually see what you are describing.
Need to order better lenses to full zoom in on the coins surface.
Definitely working on it soon.
Thank you for watching.
Proofs are made for collectors they are a bette quality coin . The hairlines are due to heavy polish marks wich are left after they polish the dies before use . somtimes the planchet is prepared with more care for better strike. The proofs can be struck upto 6 times . proofs dosnt always cameo or have mirror fields. Some early milled coins (1600s) a proof can just be a better quality strike for type as alot were struck on crude planchet due to technology available for purity n minting techniques. Harlines shouldn't got over the fileds onto the device any harlines on the device can be a singh of cleaning . You can get a baggy coin ms61 that looks bad with harlines but this could have been caused by falling in the hopper and bagging the coins at the mint . Intresting video its all down to exsperince . one good thing the uk has is alot of raw coins helps learn what to look out for as grsding n sending g
my coins to ngc can be exspensive especially with postage there and back . I only send things im more or less sure ill get the grade if not im wasting my money and time it takes around 4 months for them to return.
Why would someone send them to you to send them to CAC? Is there a benefit for sending with you?
@@Addicted_to_Freedom membership is limited.
I was taught hairlines can go across the devices... die polish lines don't!
I think PCGS has been way too quick to grade coins as UNC Details -- Cleaned Lately. I had a coin found in circulation in the early 1980s. I had it in a flip and recently submitted it... came back UNC Details - Cleaned and I know for a fact since 1982 it has not been out of a flip. Last submission was about 50% Genuine Details........ Grrrr... Can't wait to meet you at the next coin show in NTX.
Man that’s tough to hear. Wishing you the best as you submit more coins.
I am torn about cracking it out and resubmitting it. :)@@AcoushaCollectibles
You should get a microscope with a camera and a big monitor to show us examples of what you're talking about.
You are asking a lot from Albanese and crew to get it right. I see many CAC handled coins that get denied for things that are trifles made into rejections. I have CAC coins that in no way should have passed their examination. I would never grade any coin with them directly. I also would not follow your business model trying to get next to them as if they are the best in the business. PCGS is my 1st preference for grading. My buyers tell me that I know what is best as they pay me the most money for PCGS accurately graded coins with CAC as a 2nd opinion.
Mnnn dime has scatchs, haze and won't cac. Why did you buy it??? As far as old proofs it is because there was no good way to keep coins. Ever heard of drawer rub? Coins were put into cabinets that were felt/material lined so as you pulled the drawer the coin would slide. The 20 cent was at the least (dipped) Too bad you didn't put these under a scope to show the hairlines to the subscribers. 20 power will really help you notice the hairlines and use a good halogen.
You make mention of PVC and the toning effects that it environmentally speaking have on a coin. Well, the Saddle Ridge Hoard (in the ground) and all those shipwreck coins came up from the ocean bottom with all kinds of environmental surface damage and they were all treated and graded. So any discussion to me about PVC damage should be mitigated or accepted by these grading companies to maintain some average level of coin treatment standards. These graders will restore a coin and then slab it as cleaned or conserved when shipwreck coins are just fine to be graded when chemically treated prior to grading. This 2-tier system conservation grading and treatment thing is thoroughly despicable.