Thanks for the guidance, Especially w/gear & guide timing. We've been servicing analog tape machines & other vintage gear for 40 years for the recording studio market..since tape is being manufactured again we haven't stopped. The Sony SLVR1000 was a family item and your video made the repair simple. Thanks Again!
I just repaired a SLV-777 with the same broken gear. I repaired the gear using the same method as the youtube channel MISU. That technique that he uses works a treat, and the repaired gear is still going strong.
@@12voltvids It's a habit for me to try and repair the gear, because 99% of the time I can't find the replacement. Where do you go to find replacement gears?
I recently purchased a used Sony SLV-R1000 super vhs on Ebay for $125. Everything worked fine, even played one of my older home videos from 1992, fairly clear. The more I played the tape, the worse the picture quality got, like most old tapes. So I used a VHS head cleaning cassette tape in hopes to clear up the picture, however the picture quality got worse with more verticle, horizontal lines with wavy sides in the picture. The more I ran the vhs head cleaning cassette tape, the worse the picture quality got. So I stopped using it and decided to clean the vcr head manually, while tinkering with the entry and exit leads, which took some time to clear the picture and audio quality up. Now any tape inside, I have to hold the door open so it'll eject. I also have to manually pull the left lead all the way forward so it'll catch the tape to play properly. Either a gear is partially stuck from moving the left lead fully forward, or the track it's on may have to be lubricated? How do I fix the left lead to move all the way forward toward the vhs cassette when inserted and the eject door to open all the way on it's own?
Great Video. Im working on one as well and replaced the blue gear and thought all was well. But im now having a audio issue. The sound is either too low, or i can adjust the guides/audio head and get it to be loud BUT distorted (also flashing in and out of stereo mode while doing that). But cant seem to find a middle-ground between the two.
I enjoy many of your Videos. the SLVR1000 is one of my favorites to work with. The one im working on now has pops in the audio when playing tapes. It is very audible and can be heard when using the Maxell dry head cleaner(vp-1000 with fish tank picture). I switched out the Audio heads and didnt get any changes, the pops are still there. I also adjusted both entry and exit guides with no affect except that my stereo would drop out on my left or right when playing with the associated guides. where should I check next? I know the popping is not from poor filtering because it only happens when tapes with a signal passes the heads. Blank tapes has no effect. If i cant fix it may I send it to you?
Well that looks spot on now :-D Maybe one day you can stick a short rod of plastic on the broken off control. That scope works really well. Yep analog scope for analog signals, Digital scopes for digital data. Maybe one day they will make a very fast sampling rate and very high resolution A to D conversion, but selling a kidney to afford one is a no no lol. Events between samples are pure guesswork, as far as i'm concerned.
30:10 is the sound of my childhood. I have two VCRs with this same mechanism, and I was wondering if you know why one of them doesn't fully complete the loading of the cassette? I noticed the VCR in this video does the same thing, you can tell since the flap at the front doesn't close completely. Both mine are SLV-750HF. I've tried lubricating all the parts of the loading cage.
First thing I thought of when you removed the broken gear, as compared to the new gear, it looked like it was incomplete. Was the other portion rattling around in the chassis somewhere? Just wondering because that could bind something else up in there, right?
Appreciate the detail you provided on the alignment. Helped a lot! I can’t thank you enough for all that I’ve learned watching this channel. Sometimes I have your videos running in the background while working and will always pick up a new tip. One question I’ve had. Is the head unit in these SVHS machines the same as the one in the standard VHS units with the same chassis? In other words, could I swap a standard VHS chassis into one of these SLV R1000 units? I’d assume no, but thought maybe it was possible if what makes it an SVHS is not the heads but some video processing after.
It's both. As svhs records a higher frequency the head gap is narrower. It will work if you put a standard head in just not to same performence in svhs mode. Fun fact that many do not know. A svhs deck performs considerably poorer in standard VHS mode than a regular VHS for same reason. The same way a 4 head VCR has a better picture in sp mode than a 2 head machine in SP mode.
Another quick question about these units. I removed the top of the head drum and forgot to make a reference mark on the brass lock ‘nut’ and shaft before removal. I reassembled it and now there no picture on play, only during FF or REV. So I’m assuming I didn’t put the head assembly back together so that it switched heads correctly. Is there a reference mark so that during reassembly I know what position to put the brass ‘nut’ in before tightening the hex bolt? I looked and couldn’t find anything obvious. Or am I stuck with a lengthy trial an error of disassembly, adjustment, reassembly and try it out until I get it right?
@@biffspaceman4962 if you put it on backwards for example and it's trying to play the a head then it's seeing the B signal you won't get a very good picture if any at all or a black and white picture but the Head drum only goes on one of two ways it's either on correct or it's not if it's on backwards just take it off and turn it around and put it back on the other way because there's only two ways it can go on and one way is correct
Thanks. Getting a poor quality image for 2 seconds or so, then black. Get a image when I FF or REV but poor quality and a black horizontal bar about 2/3 the way up from the bottom. Seems like I’ve seen this on one of your videos before. It I think your solution was adjusting the tape guides. Odd thing is it worked fine before I replaced the blue gear. Mechanically it’s working great and it’s in mint condition. Think I need to set it aside for a day or so and come back at it fresh.
Hello 12voltvids, I appreciate your videos and learn a lot of cool stuff. I have an SLV R1000 that I replace the blue gear but it's having a video problem. It plays tapes in black and white. It only plays in color during or after fast-forward. Please help and thanks in advance
Picked up a Sony SLV-750HF at an estate sale for free because there was no display or sign of life when plugged in other than the APC lamp, whatever that is. Same gear broken, although it is not blue, but beige color. Large 2200 mfd 16v cap leaked on the board in the power supply, several others with high esr. Do you know if that gear is the same part number? As a last resort I was contemplating JB weld to glue the gear back. Saved from the recyclers, thought I would see what I learned from your videos. Nothing to loose but money for the parts and my time.
That's noisy VHS video. They are all noisy. Capacitors would cause diagonal lines and herringbone patterns due to ripple getting into the video circuits.
Thank you for the video! I was able to swap the blue gear on mine with your videos. However, the gear under the P6 guide (at 45:34 you show it), the white one, goes out of alignment and grinding as soon as I insert a tape. Any ideas what could be causing it? Even if i reset the gear so it matches the timing hole, on the next tape insertion it goes grinding and gets stuck again. Thank you so much! EDIT: figured it out - half-loading arm was seized, breaking the reverse cam gear. Now to source one... part number 3-736-143-01; if anyone finds themselves in same situation
I just use regular copy paper. Some have said they use coffee filters. As to being too rough the deer skin cleaning sticks were even rougher and did a great cleaning job.
@@12voltvidsI probanly have gotten confused with the model names. Was the R1000 the only model of its kind for the USDM in terms of looks, ie. with big fold-down panel, center loading and backlit LCD display? (I could only recall the JDM model being the SLV-RS7 which, like the R1000, did not have TBC)
Thanks for the guidance, Especially w/gear & guide timing. We've been servicing analog tape machines & other vintage gear for 40 years for the recording studio market..since tape is being manufactured again we haven't stopped. The Sony SLVR1000 was a family item and your video made the repair simple. Thanks Again!
I just repaired a SLV-777 with the same broken gear. I repaired the gear using the same method as the youtube channel MISU. That technique that he uses works a treat, and the repaired gear is still going strong.
Replacement gears are less than 5 bucks. Why try to glue when you can buy new?
@@12voltvids It's a habit for me to try and repair the gear, because 99% of the time I can't find the replacement. Where do you go to find replacement gears?
@@MrPitatom kpcomponents.co
Another great video as always. I appreciate how thorough you are when it comes to explaining this stuff.
Love working on this and the near-identical SVO-2000, such great modular designs and great picture.
Nice tutorial. I don’t expect to ever do this but I do enjoy knowing something about these repairs. Thanks for your expertise
I recently purchased a used Sony SLV-R1000 super vhs on Ebay for $125. Everything worked fine, even played one of my older home videos from 1992, fairly clear. The more I played the tape, the worse the picture quality got, like most old tapes.
So I used a VHS head cleaning cassette tape in hopes to clear up the picture, however the picture quality got worse with more verticle, horizontal lines with wavy sides in the picture. The more I ran the vhs head cleaning cassette tape, the worse the picture quality got.
So I stopped using it and decided to clean the vcr head manually, while tinkering with the entry and exit leads, which took some time to clear the picture and audio quality up.
Now any tape inside, I have to hold the door open so it'll eject. I also have to manually pull the left lead all the way forward so it'll catch the tape to play properly. Either a gear is partially stuck from moving the left lead fully forward, or the track it's on may have to be lubricated?
How do I fix the left lead to move all the way forward toward the vhs cassette when inserted and the eject door to open all the way on it's own?
Brilliant repair and service ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
That's a cool deck, i still loves my slv-825 🤗👍but the slv-825 is more service friendly 😎
Great Video. Im working on one as well and replaced the blue gear and thought all was well. But im now having a audio issue. The sound is either too low, or i can adjust the guides/audio head and get it to be loud BUT distorted (also flashing in and out of stereo mode while doing that). But cant seem to find a middle-ground between the two.
Superb and valuable video. Thanks Dave.
if U don't have deoxit will rubbing alcohol do or electronic cleaner? Great detail in this video thanks enjoy watching
I enjoy many of your Videos. the SLVR1000 is one of my favorites to work with. The one im working on now has pops in the audio when playing tapes. It is very audible and can be heard when using the Maxell dry head cleaner(vp-1000 with fish tank picture). I switched out the Audio heads and didnt get any changes, the pops are still there. I also adjusted both entry and exit guides with no affect except that my stereo would drop out on my left or right when playing with the associated guides. where should I check next? I know the popping is not from poor filtering because it only happens when tapes with a signal passes the heads. Blank tapes has no effect. If i cant fix it may I send it to you?
Well that looks spot on now :-D
Maybe one day you can stick a short rod of plastic on the broken off control.
That scope works really well.
Yep analog scope for analog signals, Digital scopes for digital data.
Maybe one day they will make a very fast sampling rate and very high resolution A to D conversion, but selling a kidney to afford one is a no no lol.
Events between samples are pure guesswork, as far as i'm concerned.
30:10 is the sound of my childhood. I have two VCRs with this same mechanism, and I was wondering if you know why one of them doesn't fully complete the loading of the cassette? I noticed the VCR in this video does the same thing, you can tell since the flap at the front doesn't close completely. Both mine are SLV-750HF. I've tried lubricating all the parts of the loading cage.
First thing I thought of when you removed the broken gear, as compared to the new gear, it looked like it was incomplete.
Was the other portion rattling around in the chassis somewhere?
Just wondering because that could bind something else up in there, right?
It's not rattling around. Go look again. It was all there when i lifted the mechanism out.
@@12voltvids Thank you, the old just did not appear to be as large as the new. ( 9:37 vs 14:36 )
Forgive me.
Appreciate the detail you provided on the alignment. Helped a lot! I can’t thank you enough for all that I’ve learned watching this channel. Sometimes I have your videos running in the background while working and will always pick up a new tip. One question I’ve had. Is the head unit in these SVHS machines the same as the one in the standard VHS units with the same chassis? In other words, could I swap a standard VHS chassis into one of these SLV R1000 units? I’d assume no, but thought maybe it was possible if what makes it an SVHS is not the heads but some video processing after.
It's both. As svhs records a higher frequency the head gap is narrower. It will work if you put a standard head in just not to same performence in svhs mode.
Fun fact that many do not know. A svhs deck performs considerably poorer in standard VHS mode than a regular VHS for same reason. The same way a 4 head VCR has a better picture in sp mode than a 2 head machine in SP mode.
Got it, thanks for the reply! Looking forward to more videos!
Another quick question about these units. I removed the top of the head drum and forgot to make a reference mark on the brass lock ‘nut’ and shaft before removal. I reassembled it and now there no picture on play, only during FF or REV. So I’m assuming I didn’t put the head assembly back together so that it switched heads correctly. Is there a reference mark so that during reassembly I know what position to put the brass ‘nut’ in before tightening the hex bolt? I looked and couldn’t find anything obvious. Or am I stuck with a lengthy trial an error of disassembly, adjustment, reassembly and try it out until I get it right?
@@biffspaceman4962 if you put it on backwards for example and it's trying to play the a head then it's seeing the B signal you won't get a very good picture if any at all or a black and white picture but the Head drum only goes on one of two ways it's either on correct or it's not if it's on backwards just take it off and turn it around and put it back on the other way because there's only two ways it can go on and one way is correct
Thanks. Getting a poor quality image for 2 seconds or so, then black. Get a image when I FF or REV but poor quality and a black horizontal bar about 2/3 the way up from the bottom. Seems like I’ve seen this on one of your videos before. It I think your solution was adjusting the tape guides. Odd thing is it worked fine before I replaced the blue gear. Mechanically it’s working great and it’s in mint condition. Think I need to set it aside for a day or so and come back at it fresh.
Starting to sound like a Shango video with the airplane. lol
Well I do live near an airport.
Hello 12voltvids,
I appreciate your videos and learn a lot of cool stuff. I have an SLV R1000 that I replace the blue gear but it's having a video problem. It plays tapes in black and white. It only plays in color during or after fast-forward. Please help and thanks in advance
Picked up a Sony SLV-750HF at an estate sale for free because there was no display or sign of life when plugged in other than the APC lamp, whatever that is. Same gear broken, although it is not blue, but beige color. Large 2200 mfd 16v cap leaked on the board in the power supply, several others with high esr. Do you know if that gear is the same part number? As a last resort I was contemplating JB weld to glue the gear back. Saved from the recyclers, thought I would see what I learned from your videos. Nothing to loose but money for the parts and my time.
Yes the gear is the same. The gray gear was the original color and was replaced with the stronger blue gear which also broke.
All I want to know is who exactly is Bill Whitehead? haha
Beautiful machine. Sony never made consumer Super-VHS PAL recorders. Unfortunately.
Probably because SVHS was not a big seller in PAL markets.
I tried to delete the video cassette with magnet, but the vcr head is broken, can it be repaired?
Fixed for another 20 years :-))
how much do you charge to fix these?
So much color noise on dark scenes! Capasitors of power suplay?
That's noisy VHS video. They are all noisy.
Capacitors would cause diagonal lines and herringbone patterns due to ripple getting into the video circuits.
Thank you for the video! I was able to swap the blue gear on mine with your videos. However, the gear under the P6 guide (at 45:34 you show it), the white one, goes out of alignment and grinding as soon as I insert a tape. Any ideas what could be causing it? Even if i reset the gear so it matches the timing hole, on the next tape insertion it goes grinding and gets stuck again. Thank you so much!
EDIT: figured it out - half-loading arm was seized, breaking the reverse cam gear. Now to source one... part number 3-736-143-01; if anyone finds themselves in same situation
I think Coffee filters are to rough for the video heads. Regular paper that is smooth is better.
I just use regular copy paper. Some have said they use coffee filters. As to being too rough the deer skin cleaning sticks were even rougher and did a great cleaning job.
@@12voltvids OH yeah I remember those now ! I forgot about them. Some of the perks of getting old !! LOL
SLV-R1000, was this the precursor to the R11?
Never heard of that model.
@@12voltvidsI probanly have gotten confused with the model names. Was the R1000 the only model of its kind for the USDM in terms of looks, ie. with big fold-down panel, center loading and backlit LCD display? (I could only recall the JDM model being the SLV-RS7 which, like the R1000, did not have TBC)
@@vampyrelycan99 There is an SVO-2000 that looks identical to the R1000.
@@crashbandicoot4everr That's likely the pro (industrial grade) model without the TV tuner which most general consumers didn't know about......
Mmh.. the red gear looked broken . Or ??
Red gear is fine.
How to contact you, I need you to fix my Sony SLVR 1000 too
Look on the main page, its there.
I dont wanna sound idiotic but....
First lmao
Well, you lost that battle!
Lost what battle?
@@12voltvids The original poster trying to not sound idiotic 🙂 These first posts were old 25 years ago.
@@MikeDS49 you can't fix stupid. You can be with them though.
@@12voltvids Ha!