I have a 2019 promaster that has sat for 1 yr. The expedite office says it wont start. Do you recommend it needs to be drained of all gasoline then its fine? Thanks in advance. Glory to UA!
@@ZimaletaMotors And oil ok i didn't think of that but if it was mine i would have and then i SHould start ok. I cant believe when he told me its been siting so so lon @ BOLT. U probably remember Bolt. Anyways thanks Serg
@@ZimaletaMotors I am not really sure you analyzed the problem because this really doesn't seem logical. Brakes will squeak for a couple reasons. Metal embedded in the pad or a squeak coming from a completely different area. Watch a video on resurfacing a rotor. You should see the purpose of it
Is this a prank/satire? smh The only way to resurface rotors that will work correctly is to use a brake lathe. Rotors cut as deep as the one here are unsalvageable. When cut down on the lathe, they will be below the minimum thickness spec.
@@alexandergunaka666groves aren't even the issue, it's when the rotor becomes warped, that's the problem. You can take off the lip on the outside of the rotor with a file or a grinder
@@frontlinemedia4270 Grooves (differences in thickness from irregular wear) are literally one of the exact things that make a rotor warped. The lip comment was referring to the fact when you get a lip it’s because of how much of the rotor has been worn away. This compared to the small area on the outside of where the pad touches the rotor stays the same thickness creating the lip. So basically I’m trying to point out you’re missing a decent amount of material to start. Did you look up and measure the specs for ok thickness on the rotors? Then, there’s no way those things are close to flush at all.
@@alexandergunaka666 wear limits are way over emphasized for safety. Probably not even close to real world use. Grooves around a circumstance do nothing. It's like having grooves in a crankshaft. The only grooves that matter are when they go perpendicular to rotation. And with rotors now, they even sell those as up grades, maybe you have heard of slotted rotors. Taking the lip off the edge of a rotor makes it easier to install a caliper, but even with a lip, you just expand the brake pads. There's no way to take a grinder with a floppy disk and take off material equally on a rotor like Serg attempted to do. If he would of taken a caliper and measured the rotor, he would see the differences in thickness
@@alexandergunaka666 rotors warp because of heat. The thinner the rotor, the easier for the warp. But warping is very uncommon. Taking out grooves is the idea of selling a service to make money. In all reality, having a groove increases surface area and creates better braking, not less.
This is a horrible method to resurface your rotors. You are grinding uneven amounts from the surface this way. Will it be better than it was? Possibly, but it's definitely NOT ideal. You would've at least been better off spinning the rotor somehow and holding the grinder to it. At least then it would've been much more even than your small back and forth strokes. There's usually several millimeters worth of metal you can turn down and it will still be fine, but keep in mind that a thinner rotor will generate more heat and heat is what causes the rotor to warp. I think all rotors can be turned down at least once.
I have a 2019 promaster that has sat for 1 yr. The expedite office says it wont start. Do you recommend it needs to be drained of all gasoline then its fine? Thanks in advance. Glory to UA!
Yes replace engine oil and diesel or gas what ever you got
@@ZimaletaMotors And oil ok i didn't think of that but if it was mine i would have and then i SHould start ok. I cant believe when he told me its been siting so so lon @ BOLT. U probably remember Bolt. Anyways thanks Serg
You’re not gonna tell him to jump it!
You do not need to do any of that. Check the levels, charge the battery, and start it. Add heet to the fuel@@judegallagher2355
NO ! THE ONLY WAY TO DO THIS IS TO SPIN THE ROTOR AND HOLD A GRINDER TO THE SURFACE. THIS IS NO WAY TO RESURFACE A ROTOR
Agreed but hey it worked 😀 I am driving it and the noice is gone brakes work great 👍
@@ZimaletaMotors I am not really sure you analyzed the problem because this really doesn't seem logical. Brakes will squeak for a couple reasons. Metal embedded in the pad or a squeak coming from a completely different area. Watch a video on resurfacing a rotor. You should see the purpose of it
Is this a prank/satire? smh
The only way to resurface rotors that will work correctly is to use a brake lathe. Rotors cut as deep as the one here are unsalvageable. When cut down on the lathe, they will be below the minimum thickness spec.
“There’s plenty of life left.” “I got rid of the lip that was over here.”
@@alexandergunaka666groves aren't even the issue, it's when the rotor becomes warped, that's the problem. You can take off the lip on the outside of the rotor with a file or a grinder
@@frontlinemedia4270 Grooves (differences in thickness from irregular wear) are literally one of the exact things that make a rotor warped. The lip comment was referring to the fact when you get a lip it’s because of how much of the rotor has been worn away. This compared to the small area on the outside of where the pad touches the rotor stays the same thickness creating the lip. So basically I’m trying to point out you’re missing a decent amount of material to start. Did you look up and measure the specs for ok thickness on the rotors? Then, there’s no way those things are close to flush at all.
@@alexandergunaka666 wear limits are way over emphasized for safety. Probably not even close to real world use. Grooves around a circumstance do nothing. It's like having grooves in a crankshaft. The only grooves that matter are when they go perpendicular to rotation. And with rotors now, they even sell those as up grades, maybe you have heard of slotted rotors. Taking the lip off the edge of a rotor makes it easier to install a caliper, but even with a lip, you just expand the brake pads.
There's no way to take a grinder with a floppy disk and take off material equally on a rotor like Serg attempted to do. If he would of taken a caliper and measured the rotor, he would see the differences in thickness
@@alexandergunaka666 rotors warp because of heat. The thinner the rotor, the easier for the warp. But warping is very uncommon. Taking out grooves is the idea of selling a service to make money. In all reality, having a groove increases surface area and creates better braking, not less.
This is a horrible method to resurface your rotors. You are grinding uneven amounts from the surface this way. Will it be better than it was? Possibly, but it's definitely NOT ideal. You would've at least been better off spinning the rotor somehow and holding the grinder to it. At least then it would've been much more even than your small back and forth strokes.
There's usually several millimeters worth of metal you can turn down and it will still be fine, but keep in mind that a thinner rotor will generate more heat and heat is what causes the rotor to warp. I think all rotors can be turned down at least once.
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