Searched this up for my MTB and what a pleasant surprise to find a Jim Langley bicycle video yet again! Saved me again as I was trying to undo mine and it felt tight so wanted to check if it wasn’t a reverse thread. Appreciate your videos always Jim
Excellent video!! You’re the only person that’s explained that there’s a “stop” once the bolt becomes slack. I got to that point and was worried it was damaged. Thanks a lot man. You’re a saviour!!
Thanks for watching and the great comment Jason, really nice to hear from another Westy owner! Yours sounds sweet. Ours is an 87 Weekender Wolfsburg edition running the original engine though it's had the top end rebuilt by Volks Cafe. It still runs strong. One of these days I might do a video on it. They are an awesome choice for cyclists since you can get so many bikes inside! In fact, part of the reason we bought a Weekender instead of the full camper is because there's more bike room inside 🙂Thanks again, enjoy your Westy!
@Jim Langley thanks! I don’t use it much with a 2 year old but this summer we hope to get a few small trips. My specialized diverge I got pre owned and heard a clang shifting after a few hundred miles. Your video helped get the crank apart and only 1 of the 3 bolts that held the chainring were there! Some people shouldn’t work on stuff
@@jasonschwan9303 oh, I'm very glad you found that a bolt was missing Jason. I've seen rings get bent badly when a bolt is missing and it can cause a crash if the chain comes off and jams the pedaling. Great job finding and fixing it!
Three T25 screws hold the web to the crank. Praxis tightening spec for these bolts is 8 - 10nm. That is A LOT of torque for a T25 bolt. The spec for the T25 bolts that hold Sram's direct mount calipers is 5nm. I have had T25 splines chewed up at 5nm. Although, I no idea of the relative hardness of the steel bolts Sram and Praxis use.
Thanks for watching and commenting Steve. I can put your mind at ease. Those Praxis cranks and bolts are made to handle the torque. Working at Praxis for years, I put literally thousands of Praxis chainrings on cranks and the bolts work fine at the spec'd torque.
@@JimLangley1 Thanks, Jim. That is good to hear. I am having a Calfee road bike built. Was Craig's idea to use Zayante. I sent him picture of a Shimano 9100 crank arm snapped in two (NDS). Put an abrupt to a nice ride. Cheers
@@JimLangley1 😄 It happened on my friend bike. We were climbing up the west side of Palos Verde. Pretty much a 6% grade. We unclipped and looked inside - white powder ALL over the place. I said to friend: I think this aluminum oxide. He said: So. (😄 he's not the least technical 😄)
@@steveflor9942 it’s good you knew that was a bad sign. Hopefully Shimano will be able to get replacement cranks out soon. According to their recall authorized retailers start checking consumer cranks on their bikes on October 1.
Hi Jim Great video, your foot technique really works! I am a little stuck, I have a replacement Right-hand crank arm as my factory pedal threads have stripped. How do I remove just the right crank arm? Many thanks Arron
Thanks for watching and the nice comment, Aaron. Since you have a replacement right hand crankarm, it sounds like you already removed your left arm. If not, then remove it. If it's already off, you can just pull the right crankarm out of the frame. The spindle is built into the arm so the arm and spindle will come out as a unit. Your replacement right arm is the same way - it has the spindle attached, too. Now that you have the right arm out, you need to unscrew the 3 T25 torx bolts and remove the chainring and move it over to the new crankarm. Be sure to orient it the same way as it was before. Those bolts are tricky to put in straight. You don't want to strip your new crankarm. So be very careful to put the bolts in straight. Once the 3 bolts are in, torque them to no more than 9Nm. Next slip the wave washer over the spindle, then the dust cover that was on the crankarm before (the wordmarks on the dust cover face out. Then push the new right crankarm and spindle through the frame. Be sure to next put on the dust cover that was on the left side. Then reattach the left crankarm and tighten that bolt to 50Nm. That's how you do it. I hope this gets you going.
Hi Jim, I tried using an 8mm Allen and the only thing that came loose after a tremendous amount of force was an outer piece-the crank arm is still attached and I can’t remove it. There is no larger hole, so I didn’t accidentally remove the cap you mention in other products. Any idea what to do? The arms say Praxis Works Zayante M30 Hollow forged.
@@MegaSpyder13 thanks for watching and the question. Did the bolt come out on its own? If so, the problem might have been a loose cap that unscrewed. That shouldn’t happen cause they’re loctited in. But the only outer piece is the cap and a small thin washer sometimes. The cap threads into the arm. If the cap wasn’t fully threaded into the arm with enough force it might tear out and maybe wreck the threads in the crankarm in the process. You can reach out to Praxis customer service on their website for help. Tell them I sent you.
Hi Jim thanks for th video. Is the Praxis Zayante the same as the Praxis Cadet (this is what's used on a Giant Stance 2 mtn). If so, I assume I can use a new chainring for Zayante and swap out the stock Cadet chainring. Kindly advise.
Thanks for watching and the question, Noel. No the Cadet is a different crankset. I recommend you reach out to Praxis tech support at 831-423-7464 or sales@praxis-works.com. If you want you could just send them what you wrote here in an email. They'll get back to you soon.
I have similar one on my mountain bike (Giant Fathom 2) I need to replace the chainring so this video helps 👍🏻, I'm going to give the parts a good clean & would you recommend to re grease the parts using multi purpose grease?
Thanks for watching, Jay. Yes, apply a little grease to the chainring where it touches the crankarm and the BB spindle and any dust covers. Thanks again!
Thank you! I need to do this in the next few days to replace a cracked spider, and it's incredibly helpful to see it demonstrated. Who makes those pedals you have mounted? Do you like them?
Happy my video helped you out, Mike. Thanks for watching and the comment. The pedals are Shimano PD M424. I'm a huge fan of Shimano clipless MTB pedals and have used them since they first came out. They are easy in/out, they last forever and they're easy to maintain (just check the jaw screws) and put some grease inside every year or so. They are good in the mud, too. Here's a link on Amazon. It's showing they're unavailable there but you can see them and read reviews amzn.to/3cuZJSv If you google them you'll find lots of places that carry them and hopefully someone will have some (lots of shortages right now due to covid). You might find some at a bicycle shop, too. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks Jim....found it later looking on their site. My torque wrench just goes up to 22.6 Nm or 200in-lbs. I trust tightening it down as tight as I can get it will be ok as not carbon. Or should I find a torque wrench that goes to 52 Nm? How important is it?
@@TomGibson7777TG so one person's "tighten as tight as I can get it" can be very different from another person's, Tom. But, 48-52 Nm feels very tight at the wrench so as long as you aren't a world champ bodybuilder or something ;-) you probably tightened it sufficiently rather than over tightened it. If not the crank might come loose, which would be the sign that you didn't get it tight enough. If you plan to do more bicycle mechanics you will probably appreciate having a torque wrench that covers the tighter torques you run into. Hope this helps!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks. Correct one person's tight is another person's semi-tight. I am not a bodybuilder :-) I Just ordered one this is on an Mt. Bike vs a road bike. Might be able to see the other one I have.
Thanks for watching and the question, Joseph. The bike in the video is an Ibis HAKKA, which has a threaded bottom bracket. So for it, you use a 12-notch cup socket or wrench. Here's the socket Park Tool makes for it: amzn.to/3o83nWB And here's the wrench Praxis makes: praxiscycles.com/product/m30-wrench-tool/ To remove this threaded bottom bracket you first remove the crankset and then you unscrew the cups from the frame. The only tricky thing is that the right hand (drive side) cup is reverse threaded so you turn it to the right to loosen it. The left cup (non drive side) is regular thread so you turn it to the left to loosen it. If you have a different type of bottom bracket, such as a press-fit, then you would use the correct tools for your type. Usually you use tools to knock the cups out of the frame (since they're pressed in and only held in place by friction), such as these by Park Tool: amzn.to/31JespT and amzn.to/3qdIr38 Be sure to get the correct tools made for use on your brand and model of bottom bracket or else the tools might not fit and work correctly. It's also possible to make your own tools if you're handy. Please let me know if you need more helps and I'll be happy to explain more. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and the question, Eric. In order for the 8mm hex bolt to remove the crankarm it has to have something to push against. That piece is a cap that screws into the crankarm. It looks like a cassette lockring but it has a different purpose. As you turn the bolt it forces the arm off the spindle. Hope this helps explain. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and commenting. If it doesn't come off like this you have a different model of Praxis crank. If you tell me which model you have (it should be written on the crank), I can give you a link to the specific pdf directions for removing it. One example is their Lyft crank. Those come off by removing the right/drive side crankarm. Here's the directions for that crank: praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/LYFT-G1.G2-COMBINED-DIGI-REVJ.pdf
Jim, nice video. I've got a questions related to the external ring which shows a torque of 20nm. What is it's exact purpose and when should I be concerned with adjusting (torqueing) it?
Thanks, Kurt! All cranks that can be taken off with one tool, like this Praxis Zayante crank, use what is known as a "1 key-release" mechanism. I believe this mechanism was invented by Shimano around 1978 and named that way then - at least as far as I can remember. The "1 key" they're talking about is the allen key. The "release" is the action of removing the arm. What happens is that as you turn the bolt with the 1 key, the bolt backs out of the spindle. Now, in order for the bolt that's you're unscrewing with the allen wrench to "release" (remove the crankarm) from the spindle, it has to somehow put extraction force against the crankarm. If it didn't do this, the bolt would just come out of the crankarm and the crankarm would remain firmly attached to the spindle. That's where that cap comes in (what you called the external ring). That cap is screwed into the crankarm. Its sole purpose is to give the bolt something to push against. So, it's an important part of the removal system. As long as the cap is tight, it should stay tight. If you remove the crank a lot, it might loosen the cap over time. I recommend checking it about yearly. It's easy to do. You need this $10 tool: amzn.to/3nV1gok and an adjustable wrench to turn the tool. BUT, note that the cap is reverse thread, so turn it to the left to check for tightness and tighten it as needed. The spec is 20Nm. If you don't have a torque wrench, 20Nm is a significant amount of force, so get the cap good and tight. Okay? I hope this is helpful. Thanks for asking!
Happy to hear my video helped you out, John. To get the torque correct you want to get a wrench that can hit the spec. So, for cranks, I use Park Tool's TW-6.2 which can go up to 60Nm and has a 3/8 inch drive amzn.to/32uqbH4 If that wrench is more than you want to spend, here's a good one that's less costly by Tecton amzn.to/3fJ60ZR Then you'd need a 3/8" drive 8mm hex socket like this amzn.to/3eCVqSI That'll get you going. Now, if you don't want to spend any money at all, I would describe the correct tightness of crank bolts (45-55Nm) to feel like you are tightening it almost as tight as you can get it and that's with a long allen wrench. The wrench will hurt your hand when the bolt is tight enough. That's not exactly the most accurate way to tighten it, but if it's not tight enough you'll find out because it'll come loose. Okay? I hope something here helps! Thanks again, Jim
@@JimLangley1Thanks a lot. I needed the last advice because the allen wrench was everything that was around. Hope that fixed a crackling noise that came from the cranks while riding.
@@Geiermeier lots of bike noises that sound they're coming from the crank are coming for someplace else. So if it doesn't fix your crackling noise be sure to watch this other video of mine ruclips.net/video/ziQKB5bUIuk/видео.html
Thanks for watching and the question, Don. Any ROAD specific 1X oval ring will work - For official CX1 45.5 chainline. Like Absolute Black for example. They have oval 1X 3-bolt interface. I believe Wolf Tooth does too. You didn’t ask, but for others who read my reply, based on thousands of miles trying oval rings, I recommend sticking with round rings. Thanks again!
Yes, it's super tight if it's been torqued correctly, Adrian. But, the crank is designed to withstand the force required for removal so you can't harm it unless you were to not put in the allen wrench correctly or used the wrong size wrench. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching and for the question, Nathan. The way to remove the crankset is with just an 8mm allen/hex key as I show in the video. The piece that a cassette removal tool will fit into is just a cap. If you remove the cap you won't be able to remove the crankset until you put the cap back in. The 8mm bolt that you turn counterclockwise pushes on that cap and that's what removes the crankset - the bolt not the cap. That cap is designed to stay in place and never be removed. The only reason you might need to remove it is if somehow the 8mm bolt got stripped and you couldn't fit the 8mm hex wrench into the bolt. But, again, the cap stays in the crankarm and you just use an 8mm allen to remove the crankset. Hope this helps explain. Thanks again!
I hate to question your method but is that really how it's done? I have a Praxis Alba crankset which looks to have the same system. Tried taking it off before seeing the video, used a cassette too then took the bolt out an was so confused on why the arm wouldn't come out.
Yes, this is how you do it on your Alba, too, Andrew. The cranks are designed for fast removal with just an allen wrench so that it's easy to change the gearing. When you took the cap out of the crankarm you essentially made it much much harder to get the crank off. That's a common mistake and one of the reasons I made this video. Do it just like I show in the video and the crank will come right off. Thanks for watching!
Great Video. Any idea why a Praxis Crank in an M30 BSA BB would feel tight and not as turn freely on another identical bike with identical BB and Crank?
Hi Arnold, have you double checked to make sure that there isn't a second dust cover mistakenly on one side? They're thin and have grease on them so they can be stuck to the bearing and difficult to see and sometimes people put a second one on. If there are too many dust covers it can cause issues. I would look for that. And if you find 2, removing 1 should get it running nice and free again. Hope that's it, Thanks for the question! Jim
Thanks for watching and the question, Nur. Yes, it's okay. The Praxis Cadet MTN crank is SRAM chainring compatible. Quoting from the Praxis website here: praxiscycles.com/product/cadet-m30/#COMPAT, it says "CHAINRING - With all the different MTN frame types requiring different chain lines, combined with many riders preferring oval shaped rings or colors, we wanted to make things easier for you. So we updated the Cadet arms to align with the industry spacing for the common DM ring offsets. This now allows you to run any brand/type/style of 3-bolt DM ring and get the correct chain line."
Great video! thanks! I have the Praxis Zayante Carbon crank on my Giant 2020 gravel bike. Have a clacking creeking noise when i pedal. Wondering if i can service or clean the crank and or bottom bracket myself. BB is Praxis M30 BB86, press fit. Anyone have luck re-adjusting things yourself without going to a bike shop?
Glad you liked the video, Dennis. Here's the directions on your BB from Praxis' website: praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/M30_BB86.90.92.REVB-.pdf Depending on what's making the noise you might be able to fix it. Or if you have the tools you could replace the BB. But, first you want to be sure the BB is making the noise and not something else. Once you have the crank out, you should be able to feel with your fingers if the BB bearings are all full of grit, sand, corrosion. If they feel good, the noise might be coming from something else. Good luck!
Thanks for watching and the question, Cypriano. Yes you can. In order to be able to do it though, you need to have the Praxis bottom bracket that's made for the Shimano cranks. So if you have a bike that came with the Zayante crank that you want to change to a Shimano crank, then you would need to remove the crank and the Praxis M30 bottom bracket. Next you would get the correct Praxis bottom bracket to fit your type of frame and also to fit the Shimano crank. The spindle/axle and the Praxis Zayante crank is a different size than the one on the Shimano cranks. That's why you need to replace the bottom bracket. Here are the Praxis BBs for Shimano cranks: praxiscycles.com/shimano-bb-options/ I hope this helps you out. Thanks again.
@@JimLangley1 ya i tried. The praxis bb is smaller.on the non drive side. Dumb. Going to install.an ultegra crank so i can put a stages power.meter.on it.also there seams to be no way to avoid chain rub with that crank and shimano grx deraileur???. Dummer
Many thanks Jim, I changed from 32t to38t on my new Cube Elite (XT package) mountainbike. But there is a thing that drives me mad. My bottom bracket ball bearing is no longer a monolithic block, but two very small bearings, which seem to be molded into the frame. On both sides are cover disks between the crank and the bearing, but only one spring disk on the chainring. In the older days the bottom bracket bearings have been maintenance free, but now I have squeaking sounds every 50km, when I dont oil the gap between crank and cover disk and the seal disk and the bearing itself. Is this normal? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching, LCdrDerrick. From what I could find online about the Cube, it uses a press-fit bottom bracket. And since you said that there are only 2 small bearings in the frame it sounds like there are no cups. If that's the case, the squeaking could be coming from the bearings moving against the frame, essentially rocking sideways. The bearings are supposed to be tightly fit into the frame such that you'd have to press them in place with a tool. If the frame is slightly oversize and the fit is even a little loose noises often develop. If you take the crank out and reach inside the bearings and try to pull them out by hand you hope they don't budge. If they come out easily that could be the noise-maker. You can glue the bearings in if that's the case using Loctite Superflex RTV Silicone (or similar RTV [Room Temperature Vulcanizing] silicone). As long as the bearings fit at least a little snugly in the frame, that glue should hold them for a good while. I hope that helps stop the squeaking.
@@JimLangley1 Thank you very much for the detailed answer. Ich got in contact with my Cube dealership. I let you know what they are answering. In my perception the friction between the sealing disk and the crank or between the disk an the frame/bearing is the source of the noise, not the bearing itself.
@@JimLangley1 My dealer didn't react, but I've isolated and solved the problem on my own. With pulling out the dirty shaft, I stripped off some sand and dust, directly into the bearing from the inside, where it is not sealed or shielded. Because of this the bearing jammed, what I did not realize, because of the lubbed shaft beeing able to turn freely against the interal leave. This motion has mad the squeaking noise. Now as the cleaned bearing can rotate freely, there is no shaft motion against the bearing, where it should not be anyway and therefor no noise. Thank again and some nice tours this summer!
@@LCdrDerrick Great job figuring out the problem and solving it yourself, LCdrDerrick! Thanks for letting me know. I hope you enjoy nice, quiet riding from no on. Well done!
Thanks for watching and the question. Praxis uses Enduro bearings considered among the best cycling.endurobearings.com/ Mine have held up great on three bikes and thousands of miles of riding road & dirt. Hope this helps and thanks again.
@@Leo-gt1bx yes, I have 28s and 30s and both have been going strong for years. Haven’t had any issues. But I’ve been a mechanic for 50 years and I know the crazy things people do to their bearings 🤣like car washes etc.
@@JimLangley1 I totally understand that. Having recently moved from square taper to external I've become more aware of my BB. I have noticed the big gap in the circlip on the non drive side as it was squeaking grease sorted it but it is a concern considering I spent so much on my crankset I'm scared I've made a bad choice.
@@Leo-gt1bx the bearing should have a dust cap over it if it was installed correctly. The dust cap is greased at the factory and should still have that grease on it when installed. The circlip is hidden beneath the dust cap and it fits into a groove that's just above the bearing - the bearing can't move unless the circlip is removed. I would not expect a bearing to "squeak" because most are put in with adhesive but maybe if the dust cap was rubbing it might or if the crank spindle/axle running through the BB was installed dry that might too though that would be unusual (that too is greased from the factory but people sometimes clean off the grease cause it's messy and they shouldn't). If you have any concerns at all you should contact Praxis. They are always happy to help whatever it takes. praxiscycles.com/contact/
Thanks for watching, Wilfried. From what you wrote my best guess is that you must have removed the cap on the crank that keeps the screw captive in the arm. That's the only way you could "unscrew the screw" (by that I think you actually removed the screw from the arm? ). You never need to remove the cap or the screw. And if you do remove the cap, you can't remove the crank until you put the cap back in again. The cap is what the screw pushes against when you unscrew it. And that's what removes the crank. This crank is designed to be uncomplicated to remove. It only requires the 8mm allen wrench and the procedure I show in the video. Please let me know if I didn't answer your question and explain more about what's wrong and I'll try to give you some more tips.
★ WATCH this video next on how to remove bike pedals even ones stuck on ruclips.net/video/M9rvqKjJZSw/видео.html
Searched this up for my MTB and what a pleasant surprise to find a Jim Langley bicycle video yet again! Saved me again as I was trying to undo mine and it felt tight so wanted to check if it wasn’t a reverse thread. Appreciate your videos always Jim
You're very welcome indoor! Happy I could help and appreciate you watching and the great comments!
possibly the clearest instruction video ever for cycling repair. Well done, sir!
Thanks so much, Scott! Appreciate you watching and the great comment.
Thanks for this, straight and to the point! Helped me switch out my chain ring tonight!
My pleasure DAT, happy to hear my video helped you out. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting!
Excellent video!! You’re the only person that’s explained that there’s a “stop” once the bolt becomes slack. I got to that point and was worried it was damaged. Thanks a lot man. You’re a saviour!!
Happy to hear the video helped you out K. Really appreciate you watching and the great comment. Thanks for making my day ❤🙏
@@JimLangley1 No worries. Subbed as well 👌🏻 Take it easy and thanks again!
@@K_____ appreciate you subscribing, thank you!
Just read a few comments... Thanks again. After watching it took less time to do than watch 👍
Thanks for watching and the great comment, Byron!
I was about to give up until I found your video, apparently I wasnt using enough force. Thank you a million times. I was about to take it to my LBS.
My pleasure Helix, so happy to hear my video helped you get your crank off. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting, appreciate it!🙏
I'm upgrading my praxis cranks on me ebike and this is exactly what I needed to get the old set off without doing any damage. Many thanks. 👍
You’re very welcome watchwinder, glad to hear the video was helpful. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting.
Thank you! I struggled with getting my crank off until I found your foot wrench technique.
Joseph Sheedy happy to hear it helped you out! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the vid, helped me with changing to an oval chainring on an m24 crank
My pleasure Mike, thanks for watching and letting me know it was helpful, appreciate it.
Super helpful thanks, gives me the confidence to keep forcing when everything inside me screamed STOP!
My pleasure Lozzy, happy to hear it helped you. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JimLangley1 certainly did mate, job done. Crank creak gone, happy man, I owe you a pint 🍺
Thanks - excellent video Jim. Like the tip to keep the crank from dropping.
Thanks a lot for watching and the kind words, JR, appreciate it!
Thanks for this, this is exactly what I needed. I'm sending my non-driveside arm out to 4iiii for a power meter.
Happy to hear it helped you out, John. I really like my 4iiii power meter - think you will, too. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the explanation.. was very useful 👌
Thanks for watching and commenting, Nahuel, happy to hear the video helped you out!
Thanks for this upload! It’s great that RUclips can be used to share information
Great video. Love all the tips along the way, like don’t drop the crank :)
Appreciate you watching the video and the nice comment, Jarratt. I'm happy you liked the tips!
Nice Westfalia! I have an 84 with a 2.5 Subaru! And a bike with a praxis crank
Thanks for watching and the great comment Jason, really nice to hear from another Westy owner! Yours sounds sweet. Ours is an 87 Weekender Wolfsburg edition running the original engine though it's had the top end rebuilt by Volks Cafe. It still runs strong. One of these days I might do a video on it. They are an awesome choice for cyclists since you can get so many bikes inside! In fact, part of the reason we bought a Weekender instead of the full camper is because there's more bike room inside 🙂Thanks again, enjoy your Westy!
@Jim Langley thanks! I don’t use it much with a 2 year old but this summer we hope to get a few small trips. My specialized diverge I got pre owned and heard a clang shifting after a few hundred miles. Your video helped get the crank apart and only 1 of the 3 bolts that held the chainring were there! Some people shouldn’t work on stuff
@@jasonschwan9303 oh, I'm very glad you found that a bolt was missing Jason. I've seen rings get bent badly when a bolt is missing and it can cause a crash if the chain comes off and jams the pedaling. Great job finding and fixing it!
Thanks! Easy peasy with your instructions!
Happy to hear it, Peter! Thanks a lot for letting me know!
Thanks Jim
Great tip on how to remove this crankset
This technique could also apply to Campagnolo cranks
I have struggled with this before
Thanks for watching and commenting, Mike! I’m glad the video was helpful and that’s a good point about Campy cranks, appreciate it!!
Great video Jim. Thanks for the detailed instruction.
Thanks a lot for watching and commenting, Matt! Happy to hear my video helped you.
Thanks for sharing that Jim!
You're very welcome inkheart, thanks a lot for watching and commenting!
Three T25 screws hold the web to the crank. Praxis tightening spec for these bolts is 8 - 10nm. That is A LOT of torque for a T25 bolt.
The spec for the T25 bolts that hold Sram's direct mount calipers is 5nm.
I have had T25 splines chewed up at 5nm.
Although, I no idea of the relative hardness of the steel bolts Sram and Praxis use.
Thanks for watching and commenting Steve. I can put your mind at ease. Those Praxis cranks and bolts are made to handle the torque. Working at Praxis for years, I put literally thousands of Praxis chainrings on cranks and the bolts work fine at the spec'd torque.
@@JimLangley1 Thanks, Jim. That is good to hear. I am having a Calfee road bike built. Was Craig's idea to use Zayante. I sent him picture of a Shimano 9100 crank arm snapped in two (NDS). Put an abrupt to a nice ride. Cheers
@@steveflor9942 whoa, sorry to hear you got one of the bad cranks. Hope you didn't crash and get hurt Steve. I think you're going to love your Calfee.
@@JimLangley1 😄 It happened on my friend bike. We were climbing up the west side of Palos Verde. Pretty much a 6% grade. We unclipped and looked inside - white powder ALL over the place. I said to friend:
I think this aluminum oxide. He said:
So. (😄 he's not the least technical 😄)
@@steveflor9942 it’s good you knew that was a bad sign. Hopefully Shimano will be able to get replacement cranks out soon. According to their recall authorized retailers start checking consumer cranks on their bikes on October 1.
Hi Jim
Great video, your foot technique really works!
I am a little stuck, I have a replacement Right-hand crank arm as my factory pedal threads have stripped. How do I remove just the right crank arm?
Many thanks
Arron
Thanks for watching and the nice comment, Aaron. Since you have a replacement right hand crankarm, it sounds like you already removed your left arm. If not, then remove it. If it's already off, you can just pull the right crankarm out of the frame. The spindle is built into the arm so the arm and spindle will come out as a unit. Your replacement right arm is the same way - it has the spindle attached, too. Now that you have the right arm out, you need to unscrew the 3 T25 torx bolts and remove the chainring and move it over to the new crankarm. Be sure to orient it the same way as it was before. Those bolts are tricky to put in straight. You don't want to strip your new crankarm. So be very careful to put the bolts in straight. Once the 3 bolts are in, torque them to no more than 9Nm. Next slip the wave washer over the spindle, then the dust cover that was on the crankarm before (the wordmarks on the dust cover face out. Then push the new right crankarm and spindle through the frame. Be sure to next put on the dust cover that was on the left side. Then reattach the left crankarm and tighten that bolt to 50Nm. That's how you do it. I hope this gets you going.
Good video 👌
Thanks 👍🏼
You're very welcome, Michael. Thanks for watching and letting me know my video was helpful!
Thank you very much for this video!
Rosandro Irlanda You’re very welcome. Thanks for the nice comment.
Tkank you for this astuce
My pleasure Charles, thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you!!
You're very welcome, thank you for watching Travis, appreciate it!
Exactly what I needed. Thx
Happy to hear it helped you out. Thanks for watching!
Was most helpful
My pleasure David, thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jim, I tried using an 8mm Allen and the only thing that came loose after a tremendous amount of force was an outer piece-the crank arm is still attached and I can’t remove it. There is no larger hole, so I didn’t accidentally remove the cap you mention in other products. Any idea what to do? The arms say Praxis Works Zayante M30 Hollow forged.
@@MegaSpyder13 thanks for watching and the question. Did the bolt come out on its own? If so, the problem might have been a loose cap that unscrewed. That shouldn’t happen cause they’re loctited in. But the only outer piece is the cap and a small thin washer sometimes. The cap threads into the arm. If the cap wasn’t fully threaded into the arm with enough force it might tear out and maybe wreck the threads in the crankarm in the process. You can reach out to Praxis customer service on their website for help. Tell them I sent you.
Hi Jim thanks for th video. Is the Praxis Zayante the same as the Praxis Cadet (this is what's used on a Giant Stance 2 mtn). If so, I assume I can use a new chainring for Zayante and swap out the stock Cadet chainring. Kindly advise.
Thanks for watching and the question, Noel. No the Cadet is a different crankset. I recommend you reach out to Praxis tech support at 831-423-7464 or sales@praxis-works.com. If you want you could just send them what you wrote here in an email. They'll get back to you soon.
I have similar one on my mountain bike (Giant Fathom 2) I need to replace the chainring so this video helps 👍🏻, I'm going to give the parts a good clean & would you recommend to re grease the parts using multi purpose grease?
Thanks for watching, Jay. Yes, apply a little grease to the chainring where it touches the crankarm and the BB spindle and any dust covers. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks Jim 👍🏻 helpful video
Thank you! I need to do this in the next few days to replace a cracked spider, and it's incredibly helpful to see it demonstrated. Who makes those pedals you have mounted? Do you like them?
Happy my video helped you out, Mike. Thanks for watching and the comment. The pedals are Shimano PD M424. I'm a huge fan of Shimano clipless MTB pedals and have used them since they first came out. They are easy in/out, they last forever and they're easy to maintain (just check the jaw screws) and put some grease inside every year or so. They are good in the mud, too. Here's a link on Amazon. It's showing they're unavailable there but you can see them and read reviews amzn.to/3cuZJSv If you google them you'll find lots of places that carry them and hopefully someone will have some (lots of shortages right now due to covid). You might find some at a bicycle shop, too. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 Thank you! That is much appreciated.
Thanks 😊
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
I did exactly what you said and when I installed my crankset it became an Ultegra? this whole bike thing is a mystery. :)
That's quite the magic trick tlfreek ;-)
Great video. Thank you
You’re very welcome, Paul. Thanks so much for watching and the nice comment, appreciate it!
Very helpful video What is the torque in lbs or n-meter for retightening the crank arm.
Glad you found it helpful, Tom - thanks for watching and commenting. The torque for tightening the crankarm is 48-52 Nm.
@@JimLangley1 Thanks Jim....found it later looking on their site. My torque wrench just goes up to 22.6 Nm or 200in-lbs. I trust tightening it down as tight as I can get it will be ok as not carbon. Or should I find a torque wrench that goes to 52 Nm? How important is it?
@@TomGibson7777TG so one person's "tighten as tight as I can get it" can be very different from another person's, Tom. But, 48-52 Nm feels very tight at the wrench so as long as you aren't a world champ bodybuilder or something ;-) you probably tightened it sufficiently rather than over tightened it. If not the crank might come loose, which would be the sign that you didn't get it tight enough. If you plan to do more bicycle mechanics you will probably appreciate having a torque wrench that covers the tighter torques you run into. Hope this helps!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks. Correct one person's tight is another person's semi-tight. I am not a bodybuilder :-) I Just ordered one this is on an Mt. Bike vs a road bike. Might be able to see the other one I have.
Parfait ! Ça fonctionne très bien ! Merci 👍
Vous êtes les bienvenus. Merci d'avoir regardé et commenté!
Thank you.
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting, appreciate it!
thank you
You're welcome, warawut! Thanks for watching!!
What tools you need to remove bottom bracket?
Thanks for watching and the question, Joseph. The bike in the video is an Ibis HAKKA, which has a threaded bottom bracket. So for it, you use a 12-notch cup socket or wrench. Here's the socket Park Tool makes for it: amzn.to/3o83nWB And here's the wrench Praxis makes: praxiscycles.com/product/m30-wrench-tool/
To remove this threaded bottom bracket you first remove the crankset and then you unscrew the cups from the frame. The only tricky thing is that the right hand (drive side) cup is reverse threaded so you turn it to the right to loosen it. The left cup (non drive side) is regular thread so you turn it to the left to loosen it.
If you have a different type of bottom bracket, such as a press-fit, then you would use the correct tools for your type. Usually you use tools to knock the cups out of the frame (since they're pressed in and only held in place by friction), such as these by Park Tool: amzn.to/31JespT and amzn.to/3qdIr38 Be sure to get the correct tools made for use on your brand and model of bottom bracket or else the tools might not fit and work correctly. It's also possible to make your own tools if you're handy. Please let me know if you need more helps and I'll be happy to explain more. Thanks again!
Excellent guidance. BTW - I have searched far and wide for an 8 mm hexwrench but it seems to be a rare item outside of bike shops. Any suggestions?
I’m happy you found it helpful, Graydon. Thanks for watching and commenting. Here’s an 8mm Park Tool hex on Amazon amzn.to/3ww39wS
thanks
You're welcome!
What is the point of the cassette lock ring portion of the crank end?
Thanks for watching and the question, Eric. In order for the 8mm hex bolt to remove the crankarm it has to have something to push against. That piece is a cap that screws into the crankarm. It looks like a cassette lockring but it has a different purpose. As you turn the bolt it forces the arm off the spindle. Hope this helps explain. Thanks again.
My Praxis cranks won't come off this way. They just won't budge and creak after a few rotations.
Thanks for watching and commenting. If it doesn't come off like this you have a different model of Praxis crank. If you tell me which model you have (it should be written on the crank), I can give you a link to the specific pdf directions for removing it. One example is their Lyft crank. Those come off by removing the right/drive side crankarm. Here's the directions for that crank: praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/LYFT-G1.G2-COMBINED-DIGI-REVJ.pdf
Jim, nice video. I've got a questions related to the external ring which shows a torque of 20nm. What is it's exact purpose and when should I be concerned with adjusting (torqueing) it?
Thanks, Kurt! All cranks that can be taken off with one tool, like this Praxis Zayante crank, use what is known as a "1 key-release" mechanism. I believe this mechanism was invented by Shimano around 1978 and named that way then - at least as far as I can remember. The "1 key" they're talking about is the allen key. The "release" is the action of removing the arm. What happens is that as you turn the bolt with the 1 key, the bolt backs out of the spindle. Now, in order for the bolt that's you're unscrewing with the allen wrench to "release" (remove the crankarm) from the spindle, it has to somehow put extraction force against the crankarm. If it didn't do this, the bolt would just come out of the crankarm and the crankarm would remain firmly attached to the spindle. That's where that cap comes in (what you called the external ring). That cap is screwed into the crankarm. Its sole purpose is to give the bolt something to push against. So, it's an important part of the removal system. As long as the cap is tight, it should stay tight. If you remove the crank a lot, it might loosen the cap over time. I recommend checking it about yearly. It's easy to do. You need this $10 tool: amzn.to/3nV1gok and an adjustable wrench to turn the tool. BUT, note that the cap is reverse thread, so turn it to the left to check for tightness and tighten it as needed. The spec is 20Nm. If you don't have a torque wrench, 20Nm is a significant amount of force, so get the cap good and tight. Okay? I hope this is helpful. Thanks for asking!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks for the quick reply! All makes sense now.
Just what I was looking for! Quick question: how did you account for the 40nM torque spec when you put the crank back on? Thanks!
Happy to hear my video helped you out, John. To get the torque correct you want to get a wrench that can hit the spec. So, for cranks, I use Park Tool's TW-6.2 which can go up to 60Nm and has a 3/8 inch drive amzn.to/32uqbH4 If that wrench is more than you want to spend, here's a good one that's less costly by Tecton amzn.to/3fJ60ZR Then you'd need a 3/8" drive 8mm hex socket like this amzn.to/3eCVqSI That'll get you going. Now, if you don't want to spend any money at all, I would describe the correct tightness of crank bolts (45-55Nm) to feel like you are tightening it almost as tight as you can get it and that's with a long allen wrench. The wrench will hurt your hand when the bolt is tight enough. That's not exactly the most accurate way to tighten it, but if it's not tight enough you'll find out because it'll come loose. Okay? I hope something here helps! Thanks again, Jim
Thanks Jim, very helpful!
@@JimLangley1Thanks a lot.
I needed the last advice because the allen wrench was everything that was around.
Hope that fixed a crackling noise that came from the cranks while riding.
@@Geiermeier lots of bike noises that sound they're coming from the crank are coming for someplace else. So if it doesn't fix your crackling noise be sure to watch this other video of mine ruclips.net/video/ziQKB5bUIuk/видео.html
How much nm do you put when you reassemble it
It's 50 Nm Hubert. Thanks for watching and the question.
Thanks for the quick response
Whats a good aftermarket oval sprocket for these cranks? Thanks in advance
Thanks for watching and the question, Don. Any ROAD specific 1X oval ring will work - For official CX1 45.5 chainline. Like Absolute Black for example. They have oval 1X 3-bolt interface. I believe Wolf Tooth does too.
You didn’t ask, but for others who read my reply, based on thousands of miles trying oval rings, I recommend sticking with round rings. Thanks again!
I was afraid might have been destroying something when I was pushing down. Man that thing has tension.
Yes, it's super tight if it's been torqued correctly, Adrian. But, the crank is designed to withstand the force required for removal so you can't harm it unless you were to not put in the allen wrench correctly or used the wrong size wrench. Thanks for watching!
Can you also use a cassette removal tool?
Thanks for watching and for the question, Nathan. The way to remove the crankset is with just an 8mm allen/hex key as I show in the video. The piece that a cassette removal tool will fit into is just a cap. If you remove the cap you won't be able to remove the crankset until you put the cap back in. The 8mm bolt that you turn counterclockwise pushes on that cap and that's what removes the crankset - the bolt not the cap. That cap is designed to stay in place and never be removed. The only reason you might need to remove it is if somehow the 8mm bolt got stripped and you couldn't fit the 8mm hex wrench into the bolt. But, again, the cap stays in the crankarm and you just use an 8mm allen to remove the crankset. Hope this helps explain. Thanks again!
@@JimLangley1 cool thanks
@@nathanjimenez1562 you’re welcome!
I hate to question your method but is that really how it's done? I have a Praxis Alba crankset which looks to have the same system. Tried taking it off before seeing the video, used a cassette too then took the bolt out an was so confused on why the arm wouldn't come out.
Yes, this is how you do it on your Alba, too, Andrew. The cranks are designed for fast removal with just an allen wrench so that it's easy to change the gearing. When you took the cap out of the crankarm you essentially made it much much harder to get the crank off. That's a common mistake and one of the reasons I made this video. Do it just like I show in the video and the crank will come right off. Thanks for watching!
@@JimLangley1 You're a life saver. It was nerver wracking as the last thing I wanted to do is strip the bolt.
@@vongdong10 Happy I could help!
Are the cranks praxis compatible with the chainrings sram (gx) ?
Thanks for watching and the question. Go to this page, Wilfreid for complete compatibility praxiscycles.com/product/zayante-carbon/#COMPAT
Weren’t you in stand by me?
You sure know how to flatter a guy, Adam 🙂
Great Video. Any idea why a Praxis Crank in an M30 BSA BB would feel tight and not as turn freely on another identical bike with identical BB and Crank?
Hi Arnold, have you double checked to make sure that there isn't a second dust cover mistakenly on one side? They're thin and have grease on them so they can be stuck to the bearing and difficult to see and sometimes people put a second one on. If there are too many dust covers it can cause issues. I would look for that. And if you find 2, removing 1 should get it running nice and free again. Hope that's it,
Thanks for the question! Jim
@@JimLangley1 Thank you. I will try it.
Is it okay if i change my chainring to a sram compatibility? My crank is praxis cadet. TY
Thanks for watching and the question, Nur. Yes, it's okay. The Praxis Cadet MTN crank is SRAM chainring compatible. Quoting from the Praxis website here: praxiscycles.com/product/cadet-m30/#COMPAT, it says "CHAINRING - With all the different MTN frame types requiring different chain lines, combined with many riders preferring oval shaped rings or colors, we wanted to make things easier for you. So we updated the Cadet arms to align with the industry spacing for the common DM ring offsets. This now allows you to run any brand/type/style of 3-bolt DM ring and get the correct chain line."
@@JimLangley1 Thank you for your help:)
@@nursarip417 you're most welcome!
Great video! thanks! I have the Praxis Zayante Carbon crank on my Giant 2020 gravel bike. Have a clacking creeking noise when i pedal. Wondering if i can service or clean the crank and or bottom bracket myself. BB is Praxis M30 BB86, press fit. Anyone have luck re-adjusting things yourself without going to a bike shop?
Glad you liked the video, Dennis. Here's the directions on your BB from Praxis' website: praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/M30_BB86.90.92.REVB-.pdf Depending on what's making the noise you might be able to fix it. Or if you have the tools you could replace the BB. But, first you want to be sure the BB is making the noise and not something else. Once you have the crank out, you should be able to feel with your fingers if the BB bearings are all full of grit, sand, corrosion. If they feel good, the noise might be coming from something else. Good luck!
Hey man. Can i install a 105 or ultregra crank on praxis bb. Bb86???
Thanks for watching and the question, Cypriano. Yes you can. In order to be able to do it though, you need to have the Praxis bottom bracket that's made for the Shimano cranks. So if you have a bike that came with the Zayante crank that you want to change to a Shimano crank, then you would need to remove the crank and the Praxis M30 bottom bracket.
Next you would get the correct Praxis bottom bracket to fit your type of frame and also to fit the Shimano crank. The spindle/axle and the Praxis Zayante crank is a different size than the one on the Shimano cranks. That's why you need to replace the bottom bracket. Here are the Praxis BBs for Shimano cranks: praxiscycles.com/shimano-bb-options/ I hope this helps you out. Thanks again.
@@JimLangley1 ya i tried. The praxis bb is smaller.on the non drive side. Dumb. Going to install.an ultegra crank so i can put a stages power.meter.on it.also there seams to be no way to avoid chain rub with that crank and shimano grx deraileur???. Dummer
Many thanks Jim, I changed from 32t to38t on my new Cube Elite (XT package) mountainbike. But there is a thing that drives me mad. My bottom bracket ball bearing is no longer a monolithic block, but two very small bearings, which seem to be molded into the frame. On both sides are cover disks between the crank and the bearing, but only one spring disk on the chainring. In the older days the bottom bracket bearings have been maintenance free, but now I have squeaking sounds every 50km, when I dont oil the gap between crank and cover disk and the seal disk and the bearing itself. Is this normal? Thanks again!
Thanks for watching, LCdrDerrick. From what I could find online about the Cube, it uses a press-fit bottom bracket. And since you said that there are only 2 small bearings in the frame it sounds like there are no cups. If that's the case, the squeaking could be coming from the bearings moving against the frame, essentially rocking sideways. The bearings are supposed to be tightly fit into the frame such that you'd have to press them in place with a tool.
If the frame is slightly oversize and the fit is even a little loose noises often develop. If you take the crank out and reach inside the bearings and try to pull them out by hand you hope they don't budge. If they come out easily that could be the noise-maker. You can glue the bearings in if that's the case using Loctite Superflex RTV Silicone (or similar RTV [Room Temperature Vulcanizing] silicone). As long as the bearings fit at least a little snugly in the frame, that glue should hold them for a good while. I hope that helps stop the squeaking.
@@JimLangley1 Thank you very much for the detailed answer. Ich got in contact with my Cube dealership. I let you know what they are answering. In my perception the friction between the sealing disk and the crank or between the disk an the frame/bearing is the source of the noise, not the bearing itself.
@@LCdrDerrick I look forward to hearing what Cube tells you. Thanks!
@@JimLangley1 My dealer didn't react, but I've isolated and solved the problem on my own.
With pulling out the dirty shaft, I stripped off some sand and dust, directly into the bearing from the inside, where it is not sealed or shielded. Because of this the bearing jammed, what I did not realize, because of the lubbed shaft beeing able to turn freely against the interal leave. This motion has mad the squeaking noise. Now as the cleaned bearing can rotate freely, there is no shaft motion against the bearing, where it should not be anyway and therefor no noise.
Thank again and some nice tours this summer!
@@LCdrDerrick Great job figuring out the problem and solving it yourself, LCdrDerrick! Thanks for letting me know. I hope you enjoy nice, quiet riding from no on. Well done!
Hey how have your bearings held out?
Thanks for watching and the question. Praxis uses Enduro bearings considered among the best cycling.endurobearings.com/ Mine have held up great on three bikes and thousands of miles of riding road & dirt. Hope this helps and thanks again.
@@JimLangley1 Thanks. Do you have the 30/28mm M30? I see many complaints about the 28mm.
@@Leo-gt1bx yes, I have 28s and 30s and both have been going strong for years. Haven’t had any issues. But I’ve been a mechanic for 50 years and I know the crazy things people do to their bearings 🤣like car washes etc.
@@JimLangley1 I totally understand that. Having recently moved from square taper to external I've become more aware of my BB. I have noticed the big gap in the circlip on the non drive side as it was squeaking grease sorted it but it is a concern considering I spent so much on my crankset I'm scared I've made a bad choice.
@@Leo-gt1bx the bearing should have a dust cap over it if it was installed correctly. The dust cap is greased at the factory and should still have that grease on it when installed. The circlip is hidden beneath the dust cap and it fits into a groove that's just above the bearing - the bearing can't move unless the circlip is removed. I would not expect a bearing to "squeak" because most are put in with adhesive but maybe if the dust cap was rubbing it might or if the crank spindle/axle running through the BB was installed dry that might too though that would be unusual (that too is greased from the factory but people sometimes clean off the grease cause it's messy and they shouldn't). If you have any concerns at all you should contact Praxis. They are always happy to help whatever it takes. praxiscycles.com/contact/
after having unscrewed the screw on my crank, I cannot remove the crank,why?
Thanks for watching, Wilfried. From what you wrote my best guess is that you must have removed the cap on the crank that keeps the screw captive in the arm. That's the only way you could "unscrew the screw" (by that I think you actually removed the screw from the arm? ). You never need to remove the cap or the screw. And if you do remove the cap, you can't remove the crank until you put the cap back in again. The cap is what the screw pushes against when you unscrew it. And that's what removes the crank. This crank is designed to be uncomplicated to remove. It only requires the 8mm allen wrench and the procedure I show in the video. Please let me know if I didn't answer your question and explain more about what's wrong and I'll try to give you some more tips.
@@JimLangley1 ooooooh thank you I didn’t understand the system the first time🤦♂️I had removed the big screw with a 16mm allen...
Thank you !!!
You're very welcome, Jack. Glad my video helped you out and thanks for watching!
thanks
Your'e welcome, Loc, thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you a lot!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Thank you!
You're most welcome, Fridolin. Happy I could help! Thanks for watching!