A very much needed video. I've heard that you need a proprietary tool from Specialized to do this, I guess you don't and it is all about Specialized forcing users going to dealers.
The previous gen crankset needs a somewhat of a proprietary tool - an unusually long Torx key. I could not find one and had to search the internet for the Specialized part. That crankset joined at the middle of the crank spindle.
First time I have ever left a. comment. Love the part: "I ended up talking to a mechanic at a Specialized dealer and he didn't know how to do it either." Whaaaa??
Thanks for the video. I’m doing this tomorrow, and thinking of taking the next step and replacing the bottom bracket bearings while I’m at it. Do you happen to know what type they are on the Fact 11 carbon cranks? BB30, press fit or threaded? Thanks again
Thank you for your video. After having removed and cleaned out, before reinstall and tightening again do I have to apply the preload by the 3 littles screws or preload has to be be applied at the end of tightening?
Good question, I should have mentioned that. You'll want to back the three set screws off, and reapply preload after full tightening the crank with the torque wrench.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I’m trying to remove sworks crank arms. All the other videos and even user manual say to use a torx45 once you take off the 6mil bolt to loosen the crank arms off. I’m finding that the torx45 mm won’t even fit through the opening to engage the torx45? Any help would be appreciated?
Shoot me an email with some photos of what you're trying to do, I'll have a look. Possible that you have a different version of this crank. (andrew@mamilian.bike)
Thanks for the response. I went into my local shop to ask. Specialized makes a special torx45 mm just for taking off the crank arms. I did't want to damage anything so went to the experts for advice. appreciate it!
Thanks for the guide. My drive (right) side power meter has become faulty too. Left one fine but right wont zero offset. Did you manage to get yours fixed? If so what did you do? Cheers.
I was able to find a NTO replacement for a reasonable price. Specialized said to take it to a dealer, and I know they will say that it's out of warranty - so I've just been sitting on it and trying to decide what to do with it. Doesn't seem like the kind of thing that could be fixed cheaply.
Hi there. Thanks for the video. I also have the S-works Power Cranks (Dual Sided), and just like you, my right side PM is faulty. It doesn't seem to be properly fused with the crank, which causes easy water ingress. Is that also the issue you are having?? Side question: have you managed to use it as a single-sided PM (non drive side)?
I suspect that my issue was caused by water ingress, but I can't really prove it. Yep. If you remove the battery from the DS, the NDS will operate as a single-sided PM. I ran it that way until I replaced it.
@@Mamilian oh great! I might end up just running it single sided. Can you still zero offset it with the Specialized app? I've been able to still use the DS by routinely drying it up for 24hrs after rain/bike wash, but the frequency of bad power data keeps eventually reocurring. Did you end up replacing the whole crankset or just the DS?
@@olivierbochettaz4708 Yep. Zero offset works the same (I usually do it from the head unit). I replaced the whole crank, still have the old one laying around; should probably do something with that :).
Thanks again for the video. Another question: once you took apart the drive side cranks/chainrings, how do you take apart the crank from the spider and the chainrings? Do you just need to unscrew the chainring bolts, or do you need a special tool to remove that ring at the base of the crank/spider?
Thanks for video. BTW, in the interest of keeping your torque wrench in good working order you should consider getting a low priced breaker bar for loosening stuff rather than using your torque wrench. Torque wrenches are best kept for tightening tasks only.
This particular wrench only works as a torque wrench when tightening; anti-clockwise it is just a socket wrench. It would be odd if flipping the ratchet direction and using it to loosen things was bad for it.
I don't think it's necessarily bad for the wrench. I think the view among some mechanics is that since quality torque wrenches are expensive you'd mainly want to stress and wear the internal torque sensing mechanism when actually doing what you need them for (tightening to a specific torque). For loosening anything will work usually. I'd be interested in hearing what others think. My view is based mainly on what I was taught by a machinist when I was an engineering student many years ago. Perhaps it no longer applies. In any case, thanks again for the great video.
Hi my same crank set has a bit of play side side, is there something I can do at home to tighten it back up or do I have to take bike to shop. Thanks dom
Depending on the model, you should either have a wave washer or an adjustable pre-load collar on the NDS. If it's the wave washer, you will probably need to replace it. If it's the collar (what I have), there are three set screws that you can tighten (gently, 1/8 turn at a time) to remove lateral play on the crank (and pre-load the bearings).
You need some way to provide preload. The crank I have uses a two-piece collar with three set screws to do that. IIRC, older cranks used a wave washer, but I could be wrong there.
Did you maybe have problems with "waving" chainrings? All bolts are tight and there is no play anywhere but if I look from above and concentrate I can see lateral offset at the one part of the revolution... Is that normal?
That might be a visual artifact because the teeth aren't in a straight line. You should be able to verify either way with a fixed object along the chainring, similar to how you would true a wheel.
34->32 is close enough that I wouldn't bother checking the chain unless I knew it was borderline too long for the 34. There's no way to know for sure how many links, or if you should remove links at all, without measuring it (ruclips.net/video/O0YibMDWBAw/видео.html).
Hello, could you or anyone please let me know where can I get the torx bit from (store/brand)? I've bought two torx bits from the internet and they're either too short or to fat to reach the screw in the crank! Thank you.
When you do this, your bike must be on the wheels not in that stand. You can snap the seat post or scratched it. I change the preload with normal spacers :) .
If you support the bike properly while you're doing it, there's no reason you can't do it on the stand. The seatpost is designed to take loads well over 50N⋅m.
Man, you’ve just saved me. “Keep turning” was the key, I was afraid to keep turning when it stuck. Thank you!
This is how people need to hear it. Not some overly complicated tech bs. Great job. Love your bike.
Great video. You should make the installation video also.
A very much needed video. I've heard that you need a proprietary tool from Specialized to do this, I guess you don't and it is all about Specialized forcing users going to dealers.
I also find it annoying that they push their customers to dealers for things that should be user serviceable.
The previous gen crankset needs a somewhat of a proprietary tool - an unusually long Torx key. I could not find one and had to search the internet for the Specialized part. That crankset joined at the middle of the crank spindle.
thanks, followed your instructions and got my crank off. hardest part was hammering the non drive side off with rubber mallet!
First time I have ever left a. comment. Love the part: "I ended up talking to a mechanic at a Specialized dealer and he didn't know how to do it either." Whaaaa??
Thanks for the video. I’m doing this tomorrow, and thinking of taking the next step and replacing the bottom bracket bearings while I’m at it. Do you happen to know what type they are on the Fact 11 carbon cranks? BB30, press fit or threaded?
Thanks again
My bike is BB30.
Thank you for your video. After having removed and cleaned out, before reinstall and tightening again do I have to apply the preload by the 3 littles screws or preload has to be be applied at the end of tightening?
Good question, I should have mentioned that. You'll want to back the three set screws off, and reapply preload after full tightening the crank with the torque wrench.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I’m trying to remove sworks crank arms. All the other videos and even user manual say to use a torx45 once you take off the 6mil bolt to loosen the crank arms off. I’m finding that the torx45 mm won’t even fit through the opening to engage the torx45? Any help would be appreciated?
Shoot me an email with some photos of what you're trying to do, I'll have a look. Possible that you have a different version of this crank. (andrew@mamilian.bike)
Thanks for the response. I went into my local shop to ask. Specialized makes a special torx45 mm just for taking off the crank arms. I did't want to damage anything so went to the experts for advice. appreciate it!
Thumbs up and subscribed! What happens if you don't loosen those 3 little preload collar screws and just pound it out? Would it cause any damage?
It shouldn't matter, once the rings are off the any pressure from the preload should be released.
Thanks for the guide. My drive (right) side power meter has become faulty too. Left one fine but right wont zero offset. Did you manage to get yours fixed? If so what did you do? Cheers.
I was able to find a NTO replacement for a reasonable price. Specialized said to take it to a dealer, and I know they will say that it's out of warranty - so I've just been sitting on it and trying to decide what to do with it. Doesn't seem like the kind of thing that could be fixed cheaply.
Hi there. Thanks for the video. I also have the S-works Power Cranks (Dual Sided), and just like you, my right side PM is faulty. It doesn't seem to be properly fused with the crank, which causes easy water ingress. Is that also the issue you are having?? Side question: have you managed to use it as a single-sided PM (non drive side)?
I suspect that my issue was caused by water ingress, but I can't really prove it.
Yep. If you remove the battery from the DS, the NDS will operate as a single-sided PM. I ran it that way until I replaced it.
@@Mamilian oh great! I might end up just running it single sided. Can you still zero offset it with the Specialized app?
I've been able to still use the DS by routinely drying it up for 24hrs after rain/bike wash, but the frequency of bad power data keeps eventually reocurring.
Did you end up replacing the whole crankset or just the DS?
@@olivierbochettaz4708 Yep. Zero offset works the same (I usually do it from the head unit). I replaced the whole crank, still have the old one laying around; should probably do something with that :).
Thanks again for the video. Another question: once you took apart the drive side cranks/chainrings, how do you take apart the crank from the spider and the chainrings? Do you just need to unscrew the chainring bolts, or do you need a special tool to remove that ring at the base of the crank/spider?
You need a special tool to remove the spider. The spider is a standard 100 BCD, so you just remove the 5 bolts to change the rings.
@@Mamilian would you happen to know what that tool is by any chance?
@@olivierbochettaz4708 I think it's this: www.shapeways.com/product/L8WSEPXTW/specialized-s-works-crank-spider-lockring-removal
@@Mamilian thank you!
Thanks for video. BTW, in the interest of keeping your torque wrench in good working order you should consider getting a low priced breaker bar for loosening stuff rather than using your torque wrench. Torque wrenches are best kept for tightening tasks only.
This particular wrench only works as a torque wrench when tightening; anti-clockwise it is just a socket wrench. It would be odd if flipping the ratchet direction and using it to loosen things was bad for it.
I don't think it's necessarily bad for the wrench. I think the view among some mechanics is that since quality torque wrenches are expensive you'd mainly want to stress and wear the internal torque sensing mechanism when actually doing what you need them for (tightening to a specific torque). For loosening anything will work usually. I'd be interested in hearing what others think. My view is based mainly on what I was taught by a machinist when I was an engineering student many years ago. Perhaps it no longer applies. In any case, thanks again for the great video.
@@stuartsiegel2327 👍
Thank you for video.
what power Nm should it be screwed back?
45Nm
@@Mamilian thanks
Hi my same crank set has a bit of play side side, is there something I can do at home to tighten it back up or do I have to take bike to shop. Thanks dom
Depending on the model, you should either have a wave washer or an adjustable pre-load collar on the NDS. If it's the wave washer, you will probably need to replace it. If it's the collar (what I have), there are three set screws that you can tighten (gently, 1/8 turn at a time) to remove lateral play on the crank (and pre-load the bearings).
I just got a used set of these and will install them on a CruX - do I need the preload ring or can I do it without?
You need some way to provide preload. The crank I have uses a two-piece collar with three set screws to do that. IIRC, older cranks used a wave washer, but I could be wrong there.
Did you maybe have problems with "waving" chainrings? All bolts are tight and there is no play anywhere but if I look from above and concentrate I can see lateral offset at the one part of the revolution... Is that normal?
That might be a visual artifact because the teeth aren't in a straight line. You should be able to verify either way with a fixed object along the chainring, similar to how you would true a wheel.
Hi how much shorter must the chain be if you change from 34 tooth to 32 tooth
34->32 is close enough that I wouldn't bother checking the chain unless I knew it was borderline too long for the 34. There's no way to know for sure how many links, or if you should remove links at all, without measuring it (ruclips.net/video/O0YibMDWBAw/видео.html).
Many thanks for this video!! It really helps me to remove the same crankset 🙏
Really helpful, seems like it's quite similar to the SRAM DUB system. Thanks!
Do you know if the spider and the spider lock ring are already torque at 28nm when you take it out from the box (step1)?
Thanks
They should be. I never thought to check it.
thanks man... just found out my bb problem.
That worked. Thanks!
Hello, could you or anyone please let me know where can I get the torx bit from (store/brand)? I've bought two torx bits from the internet and they're either too short or to fat to reach the screw in the crank! Thank you.
I received the torx bit with my bikes when I purchased them. Check your local bike shop or ask Specialized.
When you do this, your bike must be on the wheels not in that stand. You can snap the seat post or scratched it. I change the preload with normal spacers :) .
If you support the bike properly while you're doing it, there's no reason you can't do it on the stand. The seatpost is designed to take loads well over 50N⋅m.
Super helpful, thank you!
If you were using a torque wrench to loosen bolt, isn't that a no no?
It's only a torque wrench in one direction.
I thought you needed to remove the dust cap with a pin spanner first?
Nope, you'd probably only want to do that to clean under it.
Nice video! Thanks a lot!
Never use your torque wrench as a breaker bar, the only reason they even have an adjustable ratchet is because of reverse thread bolts
Thanks, but this torque wrench is only a torque wrench in one direction. The other direction is a standard wrench.