Traditional windows: their care, repair and maintenance

In this film, we dive into the practical world of restoring a traditional timber sash window, where skill meets ingenuity to bring back its functional glory. Join us as we unveil the step-by-step process of repairing and refurbishing these architectural treasures. Get ready to immerse yourself in the practical expertise and hands-on restoration that revitalizes these iconic windows, ensuring their continued presence for generations to come.
www.tywicentre.org.uk

[@alexanderockenden2564]

Could you make a video on your thoughts regarding installation methods for timber windows into solid walled traditional stone buildings? Expanding foam vs. breathable caulking materials like Oakum or sheepswool between frame and stone reveal? Plastic DPM tucked under the bottom and stapled to the inside edge of the frame or not? How to install the interior hardwood sill board so it doesn’t rot?

[@tomduxbury6833]

Hi Alexander.
That would, indeed, be a useful video to do. Installation and sealing is something that we cover on the Heritage L3 NVQ training. In short, timber should never be sealed with impermeable materials - plastic paint, foam, DPCs etc. the timber will always want to breath so moisture will build up at that interface increasing the risk of rot. A soft lime mortar or burnt sand mastic is always the best option especially where a breathable paint system can be used. For fixing box-frames they were traditionally built-in with the head and cill horns. Retrofitting or repaired frames can have straps fixed to the back and extended onto the reveals or, if a solid backing board can be introduced, fixed through this via the pockets and pulley holes.

[@alexanderockenden2564]

Thanks, that’s what I was expecting you to say and is corroborated by the rotted existing timber windows in our old stone cottage which were cemented and foamed into place.
To install our new solid oak sill boards, I have already broken out the cement slab that had been poured over the stones across the breadth of the bottom of the reveal. Then I’m planning to pour a replacement bed of a fairly wet mix of NHL 2 and sharp sand, and then bed the new Oak sill board directly into that wet lime mortar and then just tap it level and let it set. Can you think of any reason that wouldn’t work or wouldn’t be a good idea?