Видео

Thank you. Based on my research the 1:3 lime to aggregate was misinterpreted in modern times, thinking that NHL or Hydrated lime could be used 1:3. In the old texts from hundreds of years ago, the 1:3 ratio always meant 1 part quicklime to 3 parts aggregate which changes the proportions to a 2:3 since it doubles in size. I think this is a major reason why hydrated lime fails. I think this is why you should stay with a 1:3 ratio of quicklime to aggregate and not a 1:5. Thanks for the video and I hope your project was a success.

So frustrating trying to look up information on Limewashing/Whitewashing and 99% of the results are for morons watering down white paint for some lame decorative project. Its bad enough that they are labeling thinned down paint as something it's not, but they have to make it nearly impossible for people interested in the real thing to find information! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Lime wash and lime mortar are very good for traditional buildings but would they be helpful on modern houses? I'm thinking about building with leca cement block which is obviously cement and leca. Can lime mortar help to protect the wall from getting wet? Tom mentioned that lime drew moisture out from a dense type of rock

Your series on lime is excellent.

awesome video, would love to see more videos about slaking quicklime

I'd love to see more videos involving Slaking Quicklime

Why you are not answered me dear?

When you say "natural" form, do you mean how it is found in the ground? I was thinking that we rarely find lime in the ground as lime. I thought we usually find limestone and calcine the lime out. Perhaps I am mistaken? Please clarify.

Did you limewash that wall at the end you mention. Great video many thanks

👍

15:42 that really explains why we had such problems with water getting into the basement of one of the places I lived in growing up, it had a poured concrete driveway abutting the foundation of the old house and the foundation was built originally of stacked fieldstone and we had no Idea of how to fix the problem with water getting in every time it rained and pooling on the concrete floor so we tried what the hardware store people were recommending and used waterproofing paints over the concrete and added extra concrete to previous peoples attempts at repairs of cracks and potholes inside the basement to fill the low points that collected water, and this was before the internet so we had no idea what we were doing wasn’t going to help with the problem much, I think that the original part of the house with the basement was about a hundred years old or more back then and I think the hardware store people were giving advice as if it was a modern basement.

Would love to know how you do a large quantity of this on site? Also surprised you can touch it with your hands. How long do you have to work with this before going off?

Like the Hanging Baskets!

Looks good!

Thanks for this clear and practical informations, I couldn’t find any others experimenting with this material

Could you make a video on your thoughts regarding installation methods for timber windows into solid walled traditional stone buildings? Expanding foam vs. breathable caulking materials like Oakum or sheepswool between frame and stone reveal? Plastic DPM tucked under the bottom and stapled to the inside edge of the frame or not? How to install the interior hardwood sill board so it doesn’t rot?

AWESOME JOB THANKS FOR SHARING

Brilliant presentation! Appreciate the lecture.Thanks.

How do we make Roman concrete?

This has been very useful and encouraging. Thanks for making this video.

the temperature of the process is in Farhenheit or Celsius ?

I don't understand. can you use lime putty direct or does it have to be matured for months? I need to make some mortar

River sand and crushed volcanic rock mixed? Will do the dry clump test and compare to the local builders' sand yards

Seems like a huge energy investment for such a small mix, could this not be done in a cement mixer?

What a long CRAP CLIP... SLAKED LIME IS MORE THAN 5 THOUSANDS YEARS OLD This clup is useless lol.

Can’t get quick lime here only hydrated lime

Thank you for this ancient knowledge !

What is your ratio between quicklime in powder form and water?

Great vid!

Brilliant presentation thank you

very interesting but your sound quality is poor as in some of your other videos just to let you know thanks for sharing

Absolutely beautiful. Thank you!

These two videos seem like short clips from some longer presentation. Where is the rest of the talk?

If I'm trying to make a Venetian plaster what is the ratio of marble powder to line putty?

Thank you so much for your efforts ❤

You're brave and bold. Yes he does sound sinister...... Maybe a class action l s to correct.

Thanks for this, really good video.

Fr. Agnel

I had Tom as a lecturer at uni, very nice and knowledgeable bloke.

awesome mate

promo sm

The secret to Roman concrete is hot mix, some lime is left unslaked and when crack, inevitably, appear the un reacted lime (5-7mm pockets) meets with water and it heals the crack!!!

Thank you, all the way from a small town in Upstate New York, for taking the time to make these videos on a topic which has a general lack of available information, educational resources, and experts of both the technical and the practical regarding the historically appropriate and compatible mortar, plaster, etc. for restoring historic masonry structures. You are one of my new favorite historic masonry mentors! I have always been captivated and fascinated with masonry structures and materials, even as a small child helping my father lay tiles or mixing concrete. But, I took a different path and only returned to masonry at the age of 33, and now it's both my passion and my livelihood. Unfortunately, the current status, as it pertains to the building trades as whole, but, more specifically, to masonry, is saddening in the United States. The availiabity of both capable individuals to work and those with the knowledge and willingness to teach others are both incredibly scarce. All I had when I started on this path was some minor experience as a child helping my father with DIY projects (a concrete laborer, not a mason), two years of varied trade experience working for a childhood friend who is a general contractor (and, former union bricklayer), and a passion for masonry. I taught myself by reading books, watching RUclips videos, and doing personal research. I was fresh out of prison and had nothing in the way of capital or a mentor. Through constant hard work, determination, extreme attention to detail, and pusing myself to the limits of my physical strength, endurance, and sanity I quickly became one of the areas best masons. Like the sand in the beginning of your video, I too am thirsty, only not for water, but for knowledge. After a couple years of mostly smaller projects, I was hired to repair a collapsing Victorian home built in 1890 and of all the mason's who gave them quotes, I was the ONLY one to recognize (or, probably even know) the masonry was historic lime based mortar and plaster and the need for using compatible materials in the repair. I have since made it a personal mission of mine to save whatever historic masonry I can before it is destroyed by natural deterioration or modern day American masons and their portland cement; or both. The following is an estimation based of my personal interaction with other contractors, suppliers of trade tools, materials, etc, and speaking with clients with historic masonry structures... as well as, being a first hand witness to dozens if not hundreds of examples of historic structures in utterly devastating condition after being "worked" on or "repaired" by other contractors/masons; but, the vast majority of Masons in America, regardless their specialty, location, or age, don't even know what lime mortar in the context of historic masonry is, let alone how to make or use it (they incorrectly believe lime mortar is the practice mortar made with hydrated lime and does not set, as this is literally what they are taught in trade schools and use for training purposes.) I have to drive 8 hours to get the hydraulic lime and natural sand aggregate I use and the supplier is one of literally only a handful in the entire USA. Knowledge of the subject, is just as hard to come by, and the results of this lack can be seen across America in the crumbling, unsightly, and dangerous (structurally) masonry structures of pre-1900. Most are either allowed to collapse (hopefully with no one in them!), exist in a state of unsightlyness and disrepair due to being repaired incessantly and incorrectly, or they undergo large scale repairs changing the structure to the point that they no longer can even be considered historic buildings. That is, unless you are wealthy enough to find and hire a company specializing in the restoration or preservation of historic masonry (usually there is one located in the biggest city of each state, I am one of three in the entire state of New York!) Which equates to 95 percent or so of the historic masonry structures outside of major cities being left to deterioratiate or repaired to devastation. Its saddening and frustrating. So, truly thank you!

🧐✌🏼

Very informative video....

Wouldn't it be 2 and half aggregate and half lime? Not to 1. Not having a dig im just clarifying. Many thanks.

is it resilient to frost?

What about adding salt in limewash?

Good stuff Tom! Would like to see more of these great informative videos in the future.

Tom, I've seen someone on RUclips adding pigment to warm water in a tub, then adding non-hydraulic lime one trowel at a time until the whole is bubbling away - is this OK as an alternative method, or is it always safer adding water to the powder?