Just wondering why you opted for the same tire pressure (between tubed and tubeless) given that one of the main benefits of tubeless is that you can run lower pressure and maintain greater compliance without losing speed.
Because that's how the tyres were set up for us for the test rides. We'll do much more thorough test including tyre pressure when we get the tyres in for long term testing
I came to learn about these new tyres and, to be frank, didn’t learn much nor get a good view of them besides the pile and the ease that guy supposedly put on the tubeless. You said it yourself that the two days is not long enough to make an opinion. However, the scenery looked amazing - from fog, light house then sunshine. I actually wanted to know more of the event than the tyres! Missed opportunity there.
Bought Michelin Krylions a while back. The wall rubber was defective. Not only did the walls fail, the rubber inside the clincher got welded onto the rim. Switched to Conti - never buying Michelin again.
Something very similar happened to me with Vittoria tires, NEVER buying Vittoria again. I feel your pain of tire "shock", when a tire fails and ruins your ride you will always remember what failed you more than what's good. Maybe that's why they replaced the Kyrion tire. Sorry to hear about your experience, but my experience is they have good rubber and quality control on my third set. Each set lasted over 3200 miles. Don't blame you for not liking them after a failure like that, but they have gotten rid of that tire line for a reason
I used UST on the mountain bike years ago. I went back to tubes without any performance declines but then again, people tell me I'm a very smooth rider. I even did Leadville with no flats. On the road bike, I also use tubes and recently got my 1st flats in 3 years and it was a sidewall tear. I'm not sure tubeless would have sealed that one. I'm 160 lbs and run around 70-75 psi on 25mm wide Continental Ultra Sport II's that are cheap. Yeah, more supple tires exist for double the price, but they don't make riding that much more fun. A lot of baby powder in the tires does wonders to the ride quality. I still don't see the huge benefit of tubeless tires other than higher costs and higher maintenance. You make a mess everytime you want to rotate or repair your tires.
Agree on the mess aspect; Cars don't use sealant in their tubeless tires and a repair is a once every 2 years kind of deal, I need that level of reliability. I'm curious about going tubeless but i don't know if the experience justifies the hassle just yet.
@@Paddyhudson If it makes you feel happy to try it then do it. I spent many years without serious problems before tubeless and going tubeless added more hassle for no performance gain to me. It's been years since I've been tubeless and I still don't have flat issues. This tubeless revolution is a solution looking for a problem.
@@Paddyhudson Cars don't use sealant because they carry at least one spare tyre fitted to a wheel, then you take the punctured tyre into a shop that puts a plug in it. Skip having to carry both a front and rear bike wheel, and carry a plug kit if running tubeless on your bike.
Currently having issues with this tire. Air leaking from the sidewall of the tire. From the start I used Stans Selaant. Then, tried switching to orange. Still having air leaking issues. Using soapy water, I can literally see the air seeping through the sidewall. I’ve bought an additional one, still having the same issue. I left my ride at 100 psi, came back to 40 psi....just my experience. .
I have the same issue, if you put the tire in water you can see bubbles going out from everywhere in the sidewall, nothing from the rim. Really nice to ride with them but need to be inflated every morning, and the guy from Michelin says in the video they want people to be able to ride 4h without having to inflate again, they might not have build it to hold pressure overnight. I inflate at 4 bar and I am at 1 in the morning (32mm)
Yes, but you need to over inflate the tire with a tube in order to get the tire bead to pop into the rim. If you bring the tire up to running tire pressure, your tire will not be true on the rim. It will be wobbly. If you have to use a mini pump to fix a flat, this means you must over inflate by another 100 pumps just to get the tire to pop into place to be true on the rim. All this would be avoided if we still had clincher (non-tubeless compatible) rims and clincher tires.
Yes, but why would you ever want to. Make the paradigm shift, tubeless means leaving home without any tubes anywhere on your bike or person. Realise that you have completely eliminated flats associated with having a tube inside the tyre. Read the advice of people who have tried different sealants, pick one that works and most punctures will resolve without any intervention from you. You may be left a very small percentage of punctures that are large enough to require you to stop, use a plug kit for those. If you are trying to fit a tube into a wheel and tyre combination designed to be tubeless the extra rubber you are adding to the equation will (likely) bring you a whole lot of grief. That was my experience, and the thing that got me doing the research that had me making the change fully tubeless.
@@peterbradbury8539 So you would go on a century ride with no spare tubes? "Eliminated" flats related to tubes? Obviously without a tube, there are none to pop so that's not necessarily a point worth making. When your tubeless tire gets a puncture that you need to fix, I hope your sealant is still working. Wait, it's not? How do you check it? Ok, now you need to find the hole and fix it with your tool. What if it doesn't work? What if it's a side wall tear? How do you repair that? Oh wait, no spare tube with you? Guess it's time for a taxi. There would be a higher probability of a working work-around with a tubed clincher system.
Michelin, that made no sense at all and you didn't address all of the questions. I was a fan of the tire (clincher) until I couldn't budge it off my Hollowgram rim, couldn't get the tire lever anywhere close to getting under the seal on the rim. I noticed the strong arm mechanics in this video had to use a tire lever to get the tire on the rim. How do you expect normal strength, not mechanics, riders to do this. Go to tubeless, even harder to do this? why would I? I don't get many flats and it sounds like I'll need other tools to deal with slashes, cuts, rather than just booting a tire. I don't want to have to make it to a bike shop to change a tire/flat.
Tubeless are fine until you have a flat that doesn't seal. The mess and time wasted on the side of the road make you regret going tubeless. Until you can run tubeless without sealant, I don't think it's worth it. The rolling resistant advantage is very marginal, the difficulty of getting tires on and the premium cost are the negatives. No pinch flats is the biggest positive as I see it. Somebody needs to make a tire that doesn't require sealant, then I'll tire them again.
I had GP 5000 for 3 years with no puncture that wasn't sealed. Tyre surface perished and cracked after 2800 km. I just bought Micheline Power Road, will see how this will work.
Happy to report no rims were destroyed - we all rode the wheels and tyres the next day with no issues. In fact, and I'm not lying, there wasn't a single puncture over two days of riding!
Tyres shouldn't need levers to fit, if you have good technique. Mechanic should roll the tyre with his palm, not his fingers. Using a lever on a carbon rim is a rookie error, and can damage/stretch the tyre bead.
Nice pictures of Mont Ventoux! thx for showing.
Just a shame the views weren't a bit better!
Wow! 3 Watts difference - a must buy!!
Just wondering why you opted for the same tire pressure (between tubed and tubeless) given that one of the main benefits of tubeless is that you can run lower pressure and maintain greater compliance without losing speed.
Because that's how the tyres were set up for us for the test rides. We'll do much more thorough test including tyre pressure when we get the tyres in for long term testing
because you get even lower rolling resistance if you run tubeless at the same pressure.
Ka Yu Chu Please explain?
why would you run tl lower? i wen't back to tubes and runn the same pressure
1.7 bar on cx races and 5-6 for crits
So does it mean that we need only a bit sealant in such tyres?
It would be nice if Michelin made a tubeless only rim that does not require sealant.
How did the tyre size up and on what internal rim width? Always been a big fan of Michelin, but they have always come out on the large side
So where does the clincher version fit in in in relation the Power Endurance and Power Competition? Or does it replace any of those?
I came to learn about these new tyres and, to be frank, didn’t learn much nor get a good view of them besides the pile and the ease that guy supposedly put on the tubeless. You said it yourself that the two days is not long enough to make an opinion. However, the scenery looked amazing - from fog, light house then sunshine. I actually wanted to know more of the event than the tyres! Missed opportunity there.
Bought Michelin Krylions a while back. The wall rubber was defective. Not only did the walls fail, the rubber inside the clincher got welded onto the rim. Switched to Conti - never buying Michelin again.
Something very similar happened to me with Vittoria tires, NEVER buying Vittoria again. I feel your pain of tire "shock", when a tire fails and ruins your ride you will always remember what failed you more than what's good. Maybe that's why they replaced the Kyrion tire. Sorry to hear about your experience, but my experience is they have good rubber and quality control on my third set. Each set lasted over 3200 miles. Don't blame you for not liking them after a failure like that, but they have gotten rid of that tire line for a reason
Sorry Krylions
I use pro 4s great tyre for the money. Like to try these out. Are they a true 25c or do they blow out to 27?
I used UST on the mountain bike years ago. I went back to tubes without any performance declines but then again, people tell me I'm a very smooth rider. I even did Leadville with no flats. On the road bike, I also use tubes and recently got my 1st flats in 3 years and it was a sidewall tear. I'm not sure tubeless would have sealed that one. I'm 160 lbs and run around 70-75 psi on 25mm wide Continental Ultra Sport II's that are cheap. Yeah, more supple tires exist for double the price, but they don't make riding that much more fun. A lot of baby powder in the tires does wonders to the ride quality. I still don't see the huge benefit of tubeless tires other than higher costs and higher maintenance. You make a mess everytime you want to rotate or repair your tires.
Agree on the mess aspect; Cars don't use sealant in their tubeless tires and a repair is a once every 2 years kind of deal, I need that level of reliability. I'm curious about going tubeless but i don't know if the experience justifies the hassle just yet.
@@Paddyhudson If it makes you feel happy to try it then do it. I spent many years without serious problems before tubeless and going tubeless added more hassle for no performance gain to me. It's been years since I've been tubeless and I still don't have flat issues. This tubeless revolution is a solution looking for a problem.
@@Paddyhudson Cars don't use sealant because they carry at least one spare tyre fitted to a wheel, then you take the punctured tyre into a shop that puts a plug in it. Skip having to carry both a front and rear bike wheel, and carry a plug kit if running tubeless on your bike.
Will theMichelin Power TLR fit Mavic Ksyrium UST?
It will! You can see it in the pictures here:
www.michelinman.com/bicycle/tires/michelin-power-road-tlr
Currently having issues with this tire. Air leaking from the sidewall of the tire. From the start I used Stans Selaant. Then, tried switching to orange. Still having air leaking issues. Using soapy water, I can literally see the air seeping through the sidewall. I’ve bought an additional one, still having the same issue. I left my ride at 100 psi, came back to 40 psi....just my experience. .
Again, this is the sidewall. NOT the bead (where tire seals with the rim)
Hmm, this isn't something we've experienced. Sounds like a quality control issue, have you been in touch with where you got the tyre from?
@@roadcc yes. I went with more sealant and it sealed.
I have the same issue, if you put the tire in water you can see bubbles going out from everywhere in the sidewall, nothing from the rim. Really nice to ride with them but need to be inflated every morning, and the guy from Michelin says in the video they want people to be able to ride 4h without having to inflate again, they might not have build it to hold pressure overnight. I inflate at 4 bar and I am at 1 in the morning (32mm)
Only 25mm? No other sizes David?
The tubeless tyre goes up to 28 and 32mm, but they didn't have any of those for me to show you
Can you run a tube with the tubless tire if needed?
Yes
Yes, but you need to over inflate the tire with a tube in order to get the tire bead to pop into the rim. If you bring the tire up to running tire pressure, your tire will not be true on the rim. It will be wobbly. If you have to use a mini pump to fix a flat, this means you must over inflate by another 100 pumps just to get the tire to pop into place to be true on the rim. All this would be avoided if we still had clincher (non-tubeless compatible) rims and clincher tires.
Yes, but why would you ever want to. Make the paradigm shift, tubeless means leaving home without any tubes anywhere on your bike or person. Realise that you have completely eliminated flats associated with having a tube inside the tyre. Read the advice of people who have tried different sealants, pick one that works and most punctures will resolve without any intervention from you. You may be left a very small percentage of punctures that are large enough to require you to stop, use a plug kit for those.
If you are trying to fit a tube into a wheel and tyre combination designed to be tubeless the extra rubber you are adding to the equation will (likely) bring you a whole lot of grief. That was my experience, and the thing that got me doing the research that had me making the change fully tubeless.
@@peterbradbury8539 until the tire can't seal...then what... Uber?
@@peterbradbury8539 So you would go on a century ride with no spare tubes? "Eliminated" flats related to tubes? Obviously without a tube, there are none to pop so that's not necessarily a point worth making.
When your tubeless tire gets a puncture that you need to fix, I hope your sealant is still working. Wait, it's not? How do you check it? Ok, now you need to find the hole and fix it with your tool. What if it doesn't work? What if it's a side wall tear? How do you repair that? Oh wait, no spare tube with you? Guess it's time for a taxi. There would be a higher probability of a working work-around with a tubed clincher system.
How many km this can last?
What was the tire pressure you were running with?
I had 80psi with the 25mm tyres I rode
What about patching punctures ?
Dynaplug or similar tubeless repair plugs
This is the best tubeless repair I've seen so far: ruclips.net/video/-NoLJ_gaamk/видео.html
0:20 mavic hasn't TL tyres yet?
It’s has road ust tyres
road.cc how is michelin the first french company then?
It’s the first to do road tubeless which is different to ust
road.cc very different thank you
Reason #1 why I don't go tubeless: Not available with tan wall or white wall. I assume this is the case with these tires too?
Aren't tan walls SO last year? 😉Dave did say that Michelin hinted at a tan wall option in the future so watch this space
@@roadcc well, if they think tan walls are last year, then getting my money is also last year. :)
Imposible to install the tyre even with an air cansiter! I had to take my bike to a local bike shop to get it installed.
what rims?
@@roadcc
My wheel is Bontrager Paradigm Comp which is hooked
Michelin, that made no sense at all and you didn't address all of the questions. I was a fan of the tire (clincher) until I couldn't budge it off my Hollowgram rim, couldn't get the tire lever anywhere close to getting under the seal on the rim. I noticed the strong arm mechanics in this video had to use a tire lever to get the tire on the rim. How do you expect normal strength, not mechanics, riders to do this. Go to tubeless, even harder to do this? why would I? I don't get many flats and it sounds like I'll need other tools to deal with slashes, cuts, rather than just booting a tire. I don't want to have to make it to a bike shop to change a tire/flat.
Tubeless are fine until you have a flat that doesn't seal. The mess and time wasted on the side of the road make you regret going tubeless. Until you can run tubeless without sealant, I don't think it's worth it. The rolling resistant advantage is very marginal, the difficulty of getting tires on and the premium cost are the negatives. No pinch flats is the biggest positive as I see it. Somebody needs to make a tire that doesn't require sealant, then I'll tire them again.
@AG Coarseman I'm going to check this out, hope it's true
you can run 80 psi with similar rolling resistance as a clincher running at 100psi
that is, a lot more comfortable
I had GP 5000 for 3 years with no puncture that wasn't sealed. Tyre surface perished and cracked after 2800 km. I just bought Micheline Power Road, will see how this will work.
It's actually ETRTO not ERTRO but whatevs, good vid 👍🏻
Good spot, damn acronyms!
Even with the closed captions, I found the native French Michelin guy hard to understand.
I found his English very good
BS
2:36 mechanic is destroying that carbon rim with that lever like that.
Happy to report no rims were destroyed - we all rode the wheels and tyres the next day with no issues. In fact, and I'm not lying, there wasn't a single puncture over two days of riding!
Tyres shouldn't need levers to fit, if you have good technique. Mechanic should roll the tyre with his palm, not his fingers. Using a lever on a carbon rim is a rookie error, and can damage/stretch the tyre bead.