Dirt Bike Basket Case (Pt 2) - Blown Yamaha TTR125 - Engine Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2023
- I found a great deal on this Yamaha TTR125 on Facebook Marketplace. The bike is pretty new and looks complete, but the engine is a total mess. Someone else already took the top end apart and decided to sell it when they saw the extent of the damage. Last week we took the engine the rest of the way apart. Along the way discovered some additional damage, but nothing major. After ordering the parts, I did discover a major problem. Nothing that cannot be fixed, but its going cost me $$$$.
Dirt Bike Model: 2015 Yamaha TTR125LE
TTR Rebuild Playlist: • Yamaha 2015 TTR125 Reb...
Part 1: • Dirt Bike Basket Case ...
Part 2: • Dirt Bike Basket Case ...
Part 3: • Dirt Bike Basket Case ...
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Engine Parts Ordered:
Crankcase: 5HH-E5150-41-00
Breather Pipe: 5HH-E1167-00-00
Locating pin: 99530-10014-00
Crankshaft: 5HH-E1400-20-00
Crankshaft Bearing: 93306-205YW-00
Balancer: 5HH-E1500-02-00
Balancer Bearing: 93306-252YA-00
Balancer O-Ring: 93210-11001-00
Piston: 1B2-E1631-00-C0
Piston Ring Set: 5RM-E1603-00-00
Circlip: 93450-16068-00
Wrist Pin: 2TK-11633-00-00
Transmission Bearing : 93306-201X3-00
Transmission Bearing: 93306-203YG-00
Transmission Bearing: 93306-204X8-00
Transmission Bearing: 93306-20332-00
Output Shaft Oil Seal: 93102-20143-00
Clutch Lock Washer: 90215-12211-00
Clutch Oil Seal: 93102-12224-00
Shift Shaft: 5AP-18101-01-00
Shift Shaft Oil Seal: 93101-12173-00
Oil Pump Gasket : 5HH-E3329-00-00
Jug: 5HH-E1310-10-C0
Head Gasket: 5HH-E1181-00-00
Cylinder Gasket: 5HH-E1351-00-00
Cylinder O-Ring: 93210-57634-00
Spark Plug: CR7-HSA00-00-00
Intake Valve: 5VL-E2111-00-00
Exhaust Valve: 5HH-E2121-00-00
Fuel Tank Bracket: 1B2-F4104-00-00
Case Protector: 1B2-E5377-00-00
Flywheel Side Gasket: 5HH-E5451-00-00
Clutch Side Gasket: 5HH-E5461-00-00
Timing Chain: 94582-18090-00
Timing Chain Guide: 5YY-E2231-00-00
Tensioner Gasket: 5HH-E2213-00-00
Ignition switch: 5HP-82510-00-00
Rear Wheel Chain Tensioner: 1B2-F5388-00-00
Rear Tire: 94109-16019-00
#Yamaha #DirtBike #Fixed #Troubleshooting #HowTo
Ball Bearing, Basket Case, Bead Lock, Bearing, Bent Counter Balancer, Bent Shift Shaft, Blown Engine, Blown Oil Seal, Carburetor Cleaning, Connecting Rod, Conrod, Counter Balancer, Crankshaft, Dirt Bike, Assembly, Fixed, Flywheel, How To, How-To, Ignition Switch, Low Oil, No Oil, Oil Seal, Piston Disintegrated, Polish Chrome, Rebuild, Repair, Seized Engine, Severe Damage, Shift Shaft, Small Engine, Stuck Engine, TT, TTR 125, TTR, TTR125, TTR125LE, TTR110, TTR230, TTR250, Timing Chain, Transmission, Transmission, Troubleshooting, Wiring Harness Short, Yamaha 
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As many blows it took to set those bearings, amazing how the old ones just “fell out”.
37:29. Good tip on transferring tape around a socket. Hadn’t thought of that before. Will definitely employ that suggestion.
I just scored an xr100r for $250. Previous owner believed the engine was seized. I took a risk on it, because I thought I could sell the parts if it was a lost cause. Gears shifted fine. Motor was fine too, but wouldn't spin because that chain popped off the sprocket and cracked the stator cover. Dirt and pebbles got in through the hole and got between the flywheel and stator (ruining the stator). After I got the Flywheel off, the motor spun freely. Started the second kick with an new stator. Got a new cover and a few other little things and my boy has a nice little bike. I enjoy watching you fix things, and have learned quite a bit about generators too. Great content.
Nice job on this bike. I love how you wrapped the tape around the socket to make it easier to wrap it around the wires. Thank you for sharing that .
That brilliant idea is a good one to recall next time I'm doing any wiring.
I agree. However, was wondering why not pin a new connector instead of soldering direct? In all honesty, I’ve never pinned a connector but I’ve heard it’s not difficult
@@paulh6096 You're probably right about the difficulty, but I don't think he had the corresponding connector to pin as that is what was cut off.
You have an understanding and tolerant wife or a fancy parts washing sink!!😊
ikr!!!!😁
One thing that's needed when using heat/cold to advantage with pressed bearings is urgency. That means when the case comes out of the oven, if it's at a good temp, you need to move FAST getting the bearings in place. I mean, it's aluminum. It dissipates heat quickly enough, just in ambient air. Those bearings should be unwrapped and waiting to drop in less than a minute after the case comes out of the oven. Longer than that, and the case will have already fallen below the critical threshold to allow the bearings to literally fall into place.
Yeah this from my pov took all way too long. Prepare everything upfront. Housing in the oven, unwrap all bearings and put them in the freezer. When hot/cold put the bearings in quickly all within a minute.
Correct.i would also reheat it between bearings, the freezer is better than nowt but it really isn't cold enough, liquid oxygen or dy ice as he says or a press bashing on them don't look good .
@@pbysome Liquid nitrogen is colder than oxygen and much safer.
Bearing installation location - kitchen 😂
Yes I agree needed to be more prepared and move faster. Reheat each bearing pocket and needed more heat. Could of pulled the bearings through instead of pounding on them.
Aluminum has a very high thermal conductivity, so once you pulled that block out of the oven, it’s temperature dropped very quickly. Realistically you probably needed to have installed all the bearings within about 1 minute or put it back in the oven between bearing installs. Also, the longer the cold bearing stays in contact with the aluminum crankcase, the more it cools off the crankcase and ruins your plans.
Более того, заранее нужно было распаковать подшипники и по одному доставать их из морозилку перед установкой, а морозилку положить ещё вчера
I love the watercolor and other drawings that we see occasionally. I especially liked the raincloud one beside the oven.
Nice work, James. Don't trash the old case, I'm sure a competent welding repair shop can fix it. Looking fwd to pt3
That's what I'd have done.
I am holding onto that and a few other parts. Will get them repaired at some point and recover some of the cost.
@@jcondon1 🙂👍
Nice video James. When I suggested doing a scooter I didn't expect a full-blown engine rebuild/restoration on a basket case dirt bike. You're a brave man. Those Yamaha parts make Honda parts look cheap. Would love to see a breakdown on part cost and an approximation on labor hours at conclusion. Looking forward to part 3.
Yamaha does make nice bikes, just like their musical instruments.
I have two Yamaha keyboards and 2 brass instruments. All really nice equipment and they are becoming vintage 😊
More money than my shop. I would have found an old case and acid washed it for the money these new bottom end sets cost. I've rebuilt tens of bottom ends and I've never even seen a new case set come out of a box.
This that much of a restoration I'm surprised he didn't acid clean the case bolts and re-zinc plate them. It would have been worth it.
Yamaha Charges your account for even looking at the outboard motor parts. Nice machines though.
Myself and about 100,000 other guys just waiting for part 3 lol😂. Love your work
There is not one show on regular TV that I'd rather watch vs watching Jim rebuild something from parade rest on RUclips. I think its an addiction when you start watching the same videos more than once
You can get heat shrink with epoxy in it. As you heat it up, the epoxy melts and creates a water tight seal. It’s a bit more expensive than the stuff that you were using but it’s definitely worth it
Great magic trick with the the heat shrink appearing out of thin air after you soldered the wire! I gotta learn that.
I commented on episode 1 but just wanted to say thank you for making this. It’s REALLY come in handy for reassembling the basket case of an 03 125 I bought.
Soapy water is better for breaking the beads and removing tires as well as installing but wow the wd40 looked like it worked well
6.8.23 People are going to start to bring their motorcycles to James motorcycle repair. Great video on motorcycle repair.
Hey James, if you don’t know, a company called Motion Industries is a great bearing/seal distributor. I have used them multiple times in the past to source odd bearings and the like. They’re also super helpful if you call them up.
After baking that in the oven at 300 degrees, I see the start of a new YT channel: "Cooking with Condon"....
Quad ot steel wool works amazing for cleaning chrome never seen aluminum foil used thst is cool
Your videos make a LOT of people very happy, thank you. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hey James, when you were working on the carburetor and the one that you said, but it’s not even open or not a jet it’s not a jet. It is the air fuel mixture. It is what we call a virgin carburetor. It is never been messed with before so that is a plug that you can remove to adjust the air fuel mixture. Love your videos and keep up the great work.
Excellent work. I cannot wait to see this together and running!
One heck of a job so far Jim!!!! Can’t wait to hear it run!!! Thanks!
Great job, James. It's coming together nicely. Thanks for sharing.
I'm looking forward to hearing & seeing it run. Good job on the bearings.
Another great example of precise mechanical ability and attention to detail!
Great tip for the electrical tape on the socket! Love you sharing your processes in your videos! Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
The bike is coming together, looking forward to part 3, nice work James!
I enjoy watching you work with the engine
Awesome James didn't throw in the towel on this bike!! I love the way he describes what he is doing he just seems so precise when he is working. I really enjoy all his videos.
Another great video, I love the way you give us the “ play by play” as you work thru the process of reassembly or disassembly . Your skills are excellent
I've been binging your videos. Really love your filming style and educational information. Thinking about tackling a few projects on my own now. Unrelated, but I like the look of the copper hammered sink!
James, a new video and a cup of coffee, is a great way to start the morning off.
I recall the local cycle shop having a Nesco roaster in their service department that was filled with engine oil kept at 300 degrees to warm the cases up during assembly. Aluminum cools rapidly but it also heats quickly in the hot oil. They also had a cut down 55 gallon barrel with a heating coil for larger cases.
I love the “mini roll” trick for the electrical tape. I learned it from south main auto!
So did I
5:16 This is a common repair I have to do on my nitro RC airplane engines and my trick to installing, removing those bearings is a butane microtorch. They are super super precise and put the heat exactly where it's needed, they're not overly powerful so they don't melt or distort the aluminum case, they're cheap, they're easy to refuel.
Good lord, she also allows you to cook engines in her oven! Star quality
Long but good! Nice change (especially for us old motorcycle guys).
Solid build and am glad it worked out in the end. Those engines are pretty cool.
great progress James, I hope your children enjoy the bike when its up and running, roll on the next video !!!
this is my favorite channel I remember watching your first video
Watching your videos James help me fix my own lawn
Thanks James I never tire of your vidio's, just aheads up there is a bolt in the head you can remove to check for oil pressure just make sure it can't start before you see oil also after a rebuild I like to cycle the engine a few times to make sure the upper cylinder is well lubricated.
Excellent tip with the tape & socket Roll on part three
Really enjoying this series, thanks.!
Amazing work James, thanks..
Bearings- the size will be on the old ones. You can usually source from a bearing supplier. Google the part number or size. You'll find them easily.
Motion industries or even a local Tractor supply type of store .
Sometimes they use locating dowels to retain them which makes it impossible to buy aftermarket because they are factory commissioned however if the bearings are generic you are correct and can save a fortune.
@@pbysome There are ways around that too ! Man made them ,Man can remake them. I use to use large roller bearings and Inline valves in heavy machinery repair, oEM would be thousands of dollars cost aftermarket a few hundred but without the locating holes or pin. Enter machinist and a mil, easy peasy and saved a ton of money for the end user. There is almost always a work around .
@@MrTonyPiscatelle Same, I have pulled myself out of the fire a few times by sourcing locally. Typically, even OEM's don't manufacture. As you pointed out, it's not always money savings' it's when you're in a pinch too.
@@MrTonyPiscatelle I know it's all doable but it needs equating with time and cost, by time it's machined it's cheaper to buy from Yamaha?? For instance those bearing cases are hardened which would probably need spark eroding, grinding a precision groove around the circumference of a bearing isn't simple either.
Lucky this one isn't so ,so you where correct in the first place .
This might be my favorite project ever
luv the content James. Keep up the great work. Cheers from Australia 🦘🦘
great trick with the socket and tape!!!
Good morning @James Condon
You're the greatest James. God Bless
Another great learning experience. Thanks for making this video!
I like the Western Union splices. Better than simply twisting and bending the wires over. The tape on the socket is awesome. I learned something.
After soldering wires together I always remove sharp edges with a small file. It may be a good idea to use heat shrink tube with thermal glue inside to make solder and copper resist to humidity. And often I use one heat shrink outer of all wires to keep them together as one piece. Thanks for the trick with insulation tape and a socket, I'll use it.
Helloi James, Great job. I was glad you put the case in the oven and bearings in the freezer. You gained some valuable experience regarding how quickly yhe aluminum case cools, you only have about 15 seconds after taking tha case out of the oven for the drop in method to work well unless you can keep the case hot with a heat gun or alternate heat source. Pull case drop a bearing put case back in oven for a couple of minutes repeat. In my day I was luvky enough to salvage an old kitchen stove for the garage. Kept Mom from giving me a dressing down about ruining her oven for no good reason. I can still hear her, " God Dam Motorcycles". As a previous viewer mentioned, the old case should be repairable. Matching the oil oaxxage and sealing the crack not that difficult for an experienced metal worker. Have a great day looking forward to part 3.
Better you than me. I always got mine pore-fixed! God Bless!
Great video as always Thanks had a blast watching on this one @James Condon
Hi James,, I have 500cc Honda dirt bike that I have to do the same thing too almost,,,, Need to replace the cylinder and and probably the piston,, maybe the head,, Hoping to be able to afford to do the work this winter,, I am really enjoying this video series of your dirt bike rebuild,, 🤠
Hi James and family, great video the rear sprocket looks worn. ?
things here, are cold here in Perth WA my pigeons get covered up at night for the rain here.
I spoil them all. the congdon family are fine
Can't wait to hear a Run thank you for the video
Lots of progress in this episode nice
As always great video, having worked with and welded aluminum for many years it came as no surprise that you faught with installing the bearings, if you have to do this again you'll want to heat soak the case to 400f and have the torch ready to put heat straight into the area around the bearing immediately before placing the bearing, I'm only aware of a couple of other substances that move heat like aluminum ( melts around 1100f depending on the alloy) there is tungsten that melts around 7200f platinum that I never had occasion to work with and titanium that I did a couple of times and don't remember at what temperature it flows but it welded much like aluminum
Video isn't long enough 😂 can't wait to see outcome of this rebuild, nice work done so far 👍🏼
I’ve mentioned my trusty Troybilt 5500 genset often. After 15 years I thought it might be a good idea to look inside the Nikki carb. Following your videos I found it to be simple. As I examined it I saw that it was so clean it looked like brand new! Absolutely no dirt or clogged passages. I reinstalled it, torquing it to 70 inch pounds and on 1/2 choke it started and made power. Maybe I’ll get a killawatt and see if it’s at 61.5 hertz no load. It’s working and I really don’t want to mess with it!
Love the way you do every job by the book for the videos I have got into as found your vids very recently. Thought the new ignition switch was a short cut by bodging it and cutting the plug off though!!!! I would have sourced the correct plug/socket and terminated not correctly. Still think your vids are awesome though and especially love the generator ones.
Awesome work, true professional.
Looks new now. Great content.
Jim Rance here. Put dry ice in acetone and put in bearings they will come to temp of dry ice in few minutes and then place bearings in hot case and they should go in easier.
Great work Jim. If you have a good machine shop in your area, maybe you could have them straighten the oil chamber that is cracked and TIG weld and machine it back to spec. Just a thought. Thanks for a great video.
You can heat the casting with a torch. We do it all the time, changing bearings for RC airplane engines.
I can't help but think that this bike was stolen, and the thief beat the crap out of it, and the original owner got the bike back and just decided to dump it. With the cut wires for hot wiring it, this bike just has that vibe. Which is not a terrible thing in and of itself because your going through the bike.
Nice technique using the socket with the electrical tape, can't remember how many times I fought that situation.
Great Video Thanks James!!👍👍
What I found that works great is a Colman camp burner. And a grill
Can't wait for part 3.
I can understand your reticence when it comes to dealing with ATV/motorcycle carbs. They can be a pain, even if you can actually find parts for them.
Dang at the crank case Crack but hey atleast it will have new bearings and should build pressure
Nice video James
17:30 "the shift shaft seal..." had me going for a mo... 🤣👍
I liked the quick cut from soldering with no heat shrink to magic heat shrink installation. Let's us know you're still human lol.
When soldering corroded wires that you can’t cut back fan the individual stands then scrape for clean copper with a small knife blade.
As I was watching you I cought my self trying to hold it when you were put in the bearings everything is going to work out for you
Brilliant video
I've used dry ice to install the brgs, while using the oven the heat up the case.
great video. nice seeing all kinds of stuff on your channel. thanks for the shout out lol. next time you do a tire (and you will) I have all the tire irons and rim protectors.
Just bought some Tire irons for next time. Thanks Dave for lending me some tools for this project.
@@jcondon1 anytime
One thing that helps me change tires is to make sure the tire bead on the opposite side where you are working is pushed into the depression on the rim. That gives you slack and doesn’t stretch the bead. On high horsepower rims, you want to avoid too much lubrication as the tire will slip and tear the valve stem. This one had a bead lock.
Excellent point. I have a couple low HP scooters and have an inexpensive set of tire wrenches (basically blunt end prybars) and use a tire lube (I use a product called bull snot- not a joke) to assist. WD40 isn’t slick enough to get some of the really tight fitting tires slipped over and seated on the rims.
new castings had less tolerance but otherwise excellent reassembly james thank you!
My guess is that crank case could be Tig welded with aluminum rod and brought back to useable condition (even with the deformation) as long as the mating surfaces are ground and sanded on a smooth flat plane.
ive always lived by the rebuild what you have if its rebuildable and not buy used. then you know what you have.. even if it does cost a lil more then used. but sometimes yep like here its cheaper to rebuild
Curious to see the bearing number marked on the bearing. Yamaha probably marks up 500 percent!!
Yamaha marks everything up. I downloaded all the prices from the parts site to see what it would cost to build the whole engine from scratch. It was over $10,000
The way you got the bearings in the crank case is the same way to replace the starter gear on the engine fly wheel
I saw a bristle from the brush you used that was left on the gears when you put both case halves together.
That’s how I I put bearing in chainsaws - hot and cold method, block of wood or big socket and a hammer. Sometimes they drop right in and sometimes they need a little persuasion. I want 250 delta between the bearings and the cases, typically 5 degrees and 255 degrees works fine for me.
I was at 0 on the bearing and I thought 300 on the case. Was surprised how tight it still was.
Bearing in a normal household freeser. Housing warm up to 200°c. It's coming in by themself without hammering
Really interesting video! Thanks for the tip whit wd40 and tinfoil on the rims! 😊 Looking forward to see it running! // Johan from Sweden 😊
Great job, excellent work, as always.
My neat freak OCD is seriously being triggered at 23:50.... There's a single hair from the paintbrush you used to apply the assembly lube on the output shaft... 😰😰😰😰
I would love to get a HQ scan of that artwork next to the oven.
I didn't know dirt bike wheels had beadlocks that is pretty cool
They run low pressure so are more liable to spin on the rim.
@@pbysome makes sense never new I'm more of a quad guy
Was surprised to see one and a 125cc bike.