Hello. I bought a John Deere 425 this past spring. The compression was very bad because of the rings. Anyway, I came across your videos and they were so helpful. I hope though I personally don't have a rear end leak. That didn't look like fun at all. But you are so informative and great with the camera. Thank you
I replaced the reed valve on the back of the motor. It acts like a pcv valve. Mine failed after 1100 hours. It causes oil burn. So while I was at it I put in new valve stem seals and lapped in the valves. I runs great at 1750 hours now on the clock. By the way I had to replace the cam around 950 hours or so.
Interesting comment. I have a 445. Cam gear failed at 1700 hours. I have always wondered about the excessive crank case pressure. I wondered if the reed valve might have something to do with it. I couldnt get anyone to agree with me. Now I wonder how the top end will be. The mechanic wondered about the viability of rebuilding it.
Where did you source the water pump? I've been trying to find one for a Kawasaki FD 731V in a Hustler Super Z. Do you know if it's the same water pump in the FD 731V? Any help with where to get a pump would be appreciated.
Great series of videos. I have my 425 apart now replacing the front cover gasket. I'm also going to replace my plastic governor gear while I have it apart. I don't recall you removing the governor gear in your videos. Does it snap off just as it snapped on in this video? I pried on it a little without knowing but didn't want to damage the case or spindle it rides on.
I am looking at replacing my valve stem seals. I see when you replaced the springs the head was on the block. What keeps the valves from not falling in the engine? The seals? I'm thinking when I change the seals to put air in the cylinder while I work.
Wat kit did u buy and where do I find one cause I think there copland in my oil and there a bad water pump also but there coolant in my oil where the white gunk is on my oil cap and oil to where you pour your oil and then it's also in the dipstick and then it's also all the way where my throttle body is or even on the filter because the thought of bodies stick a little bit I need to be cleaned out so anybody that would be great thanks
Nice quality video Junkyard Tailgate. I'm currently rebuilding mine because of no oil pressure. Everything looks really neat and clean inside. The bit you didn't include in your vid is the oil pressure relief valve. Although my spring is easily within limits, it doesn't reach the retaining plate. This means, as far as I can tell, there is no spring compression at all and so surely the oil would not build any pressure. In my case the spring sits about 1.5mm below the retaining plate. Should I shim it to fill the gap to put the spring under slight compression?
Well, I added the shims and the pressure was too high. I removed one shim and was still too high. So I removed both shims and pressure is now normal. That is 45psi cold on idle and up to 70 psi on fast idle when cold. Even with one shim and clearance above spring, pressure was over 90psi on fast idle. I'm sure you'll agree is too high. So it seems that the 1.5mm gap between spring and retainer plate is required. Hopefully we both learned something there.
Camshaft doesn't get enough oiling. What to do? Inside connecting rods v file a small vee, inside 1 2 cylinders this will give enough bleed off to lube the camshaft lobes, and the cam tapets, push lifters will out last the engine. Great design idea but poor shity, parts very cheap and poor! Had mine leaking coolant at 565 hours of use..Looking inside the engine very carefully you'll see many things that take some hand machining especially for proper oiling...FYI
Hi jice job i have one question I have kawasaki fd620d the oil pump is broken the pice on on inside I tried to find it but I don't know can you help me please thank
Hello. I bought a John Deere 425 this past spring. The compression was very bad because of the rings. Anyway, I came across your videos and they were so helpful. I hope though I personally don't have a rear end leak. That didn't look like fun at all. But you are so informative and great with the camera. Thank you
Nice job on the rebuild. It will be better than new when you're done.
Today I completed the reassembly of my FD620D engine. Many thanks to Junkyard tailgate for this video. I purchased new head bolts.
I replaced the reed valve on the back of the motor. It acts like a pcv valve. Mine failed after 1100 hours. It causes oil burn. So while I was at it I put in new valve stem seals and lapped in the valves. I runs great at 1750 hours now on the clock. By the way I had to replace the cam around 950 hours or so.
Interesting comment. I have a 445. Cam gear failed at 1700 hours. I have always wondered about the excessive crank case pressure. I wondered if the reed valve might have something to do with it. I couldnt get anyone to agree with me. Now I wonder how the top end will be. The mechanic wondered about the viability of rebuilding it.
Hi @The Townhouse Garage, great video. Could you tell me where you purchased your kit for the 445?
Thanks in advance
Hello I have an argo conquest 2000 model it looks like. Is the same engine Mine engine is smoking and I was thinking on rebuilding the motor.
Where did you source the water pump?
I've been trying to find one for a Kawasaki FD 731V in a Hustler Super Z.
Do you know if it's the same water pump in the FD 731V?
Any help with where to get a pump would be appreciated.
What was the cause of water getting into the oil?
Going back together... but a broken bolt can almost ruin your whole day. Gladly it came out easily.
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man when it first popped I went into a deep depression! Bad day right there. Thanks for stopping by George.
@@JunkyardTailgate Just broke one of mine last night. Hoping it comes out as easy as yours.
Train Gawker I wonder if I over torqued mine causing to snap. I converted from one unit of measure to in pounds of torque but may have miscalculated.
@@JunkyardTailgate I know I may have because some specs are in "ft lbs" and others in "in lbs" in the JD technical manual
Great series of videos. I have my 425 apart now replacing the front cover gasket. I'm also going to replace my plastic governor gear while I have it apart. I don't recall you removing the governor gear in your videos. Does it snap off just as it snapped on in this video? I pried on it a little without knowing but didn't want to damage the case or spindle it rides on.
I am looking at replacing my valve stem seals. I see when you replaced the springs the head was on the block. What keeps the valves from not falling in the engine? The seals? I'm thinking when I change the seals to put air in the cylinder while I work.
Dan B you can use air to hold the valves in while changing the springs. I stuffed a rag in mine as best I could and run the piston to top dead center.
Junkyard Tailgate that’s a good idea also! Thank you for all the videos. Very helpful!!
Wat kit did u buy and where do I find one cause I think there copland in my oil and there a bad water pump also but there coolant in my oil where the white gunk is on my oil cap and oil to where you pour your oil and then it's also in the dipstick and then it's also all the way where my throttle body is or even on the filter because the thought of bodies stick a little bit I need to be cleaned out so anybody that would be great thanks
@@JunkyardTailgate what does it mean when i have coolant getting into the cylinders both of them does it mean my engine is done for or head gaskets?
Nice quality video Junkyard Tailgate. I'm currently rebuilding mine because of no oil pressure. Everything looks really neat and clean inside. The bit you didn't include in your vid is the oil pressure relief valve. Although my spring is easily within limits, it doesn't reach the retaining plate. This means, as far as I can tell, there is no spring compression at all and so surely the oil would not build any pressure. In my case the spring sits about 1.5mm below the retaining plate. Should I shim it to fill the gap to put the spring under slight compression?
Andrew Robbo yes, I would shim to gain a little spring compression.
@@JunkyardTailgate thanks for your speedy reply. I'll do that.
Well, I added the shims and the pressure was too high. I removed one shim and was still too high. So I removed both shims and pressure is now normal. That is 45psi cold on idle and up to 70 psi on fast idle when cold. Even with one shim and clearance above spring, pressure was over 90psi on fast idle. I'm sure you'll agree is too high. So it seems that the 1.5mm gap between spring and retainer plate is required. Hopefully we both learned something there.
Love your videos. You said you bought the items in a "kit". Was that from JD, or elsewhere? Thanks!
Camshaft doesn't get enough oiling. What to do? Inside connecting rods v file a small vee, inside 1 2 cylinders this will give enough bleed off to lube the camshaft lobes, and the cam tapets, push lifters will out last the engine. Great design idea but poor shity, parts very cheap and poor! Had mine leaking coolant at 565 hours of use..Looking inside the engine very carefully you'll see many things that take some hand machining especially for proper oiling...FYI
Rebel Oneal good tips. Wish John Deere made their own engines.
Hi jice job i have one question I have kawasaki fd620d the oil pump is broken the pice on on inside I tried to find it but I don't know can you help me please thank
Use left hand drill bit 😊
Where did you get the kit ???😊
crap chinese bolt. horrible steel quality.