I'm really in two minds whether to pull the trigger on this type of stone. The price is perhaps understandably high, reflecting the start up costs of new technology and the pros and cons of the novelty aspect, and I'm certain that prices will fall in time. However, being a micro-bevel fetishist, I can see the higher grit stones out-performing my beloved Spyderco ceramics, which do a fine job but load faster than the diamond water stones and are not at all good at cutting off any burrs one might have missed when initially shaping the edge with water stones or diamond plates. Thanks for the demo.
order them for China for 1/4 the cost is what I would say. These naniwa aren't but everything in EDC bro land is a scam or rip off. From 30 cent of generic industrial diamond abrasive slurry being sold by the spoonful in tiny bottles for 1000x markups to Venev stones which sell for $50 in Russia and $300 in the US. It's just dumb. You can get these same stones for about $100 USD, sometimes less, inside Japan. I ordered DMD resin bonded diamond stones from China for about $40 each. They used to cost even less than that. The grit ratings are all over the road but the stones are legit. The "1000" is like a fast cutting 400 that can replace everything from a 220 up. Leaves a great edge. It's all about your skills. If you have skills you can get a better edge than the next guy with every stone in the world off of nothing but a single sheet of 80 grit sandpaper. I get edges that blow through free hanging paper towels off 60 grit sandpaper. it's all about skills. If I want it toothy, I make it toothy or if I want it clean I make it clean, just based on what kind of strokes you use,
I got a question I've got this little custom 1095 fixed blade I put the edge grind at around 30 degrees but can't seem to get a edge on it so I moved to a 40 degree micro bevel on my sharpmaker with ultra fine stones and it's still chips out seemingly no matter what grit or angle I use I assume it's probably a bad temper just way too hard but I was wondering if you have any ideas
Herb Toker no I figured it out it was a combination of being forged and a bad heat treatment the grain structure in the steel is just too large to support a fine Edge I did get a decent edge I went convex with a really fine belt on my Work Sharp still not great but cuts
Herb Toker the really crappy part is I bought four knives off this guy and all of them have the same problem not as bad but I wouldn't have bought that many Customs off him if I knew he didn't know what he was doing
BBB, do you know if the coarsest stone from this series--400--would be coarse enough to re-profile or begin a sharpening sequence on a dull knife, or should I go with something coarser?
I wasn't the biggest fan of these but I did love the idea. I was in a diamond phase when I bought them, but I've since moved almost entirely away from diamonds. I have an Atoma 140 that I truly love but that's it for diamonds. I've fallen back in love with just a Suehiro Cerax 1k and Shapton Glass 4k. I'll go to the Glass 10k on some knives but really I spend most of my time on those two. If I must I'll go to a Shapton Pro 320 but rarely do I have a knife need that.
@@Resolute900 not sure I'd say I detest them, they did get the job done. The issue I had is they were kind of half and half but neither side was great. They didn't cut like a diamond stone, and didn't feel like a traditional whetstone. They tried to give the best of both worlds but it was just a miss. There are a number of brilliant diamond plates on the market these days as well as stones that cut similarly to diamonds. These just didn't fit the bill for me.
If I were to get two of those or any fast cutting stones I would get them in 800, 3000 grits. (I currently do all my knives sharpenings with Chosera 800 and 3000). Anything else is just added luxury. 800 is fast enough to create a new primary bevel (only several passes more than a 400 or a 600) 3000 in my experience will get your blades sharp enough for most culinary tasks.
In my opinion no depending on what you’re sharpening. After the 3000 used with some naniwa paste maybe 6000 or 10000 (not super necessary) I really haven’t felt any need to go higher because if you’re using a hunting carving or camping knife and you really want it super sharp you could start stropping after the 3000. It has worked for me. For harder powder steel I would just use a higher grit waterstone like a 10000 or 120000 after the 3000. Hope it helped.
Big Brown Bear Have you tried one yet? I am thinking about it. For the cash of it can handle the tougher steel on the low without damaging I'd be fine with it.
from 8 years of sharpening Id rather just buy what gives me the edges im looking for, anytime ive tried to cheap out it never satisfied the performance I was looking for, I dont know what role a low quality 12k diamond would have use for in my opinion. a coated plate is not the same as an actual diamond waterstone. Id recommend saving your money for something that is higher quality and lasts longer, you could put that $15 towards a Venev diamond waterstone
I'm really in two minds whether to pull the trigger on this type of stone. The price is perhaps understandably high, reflecting the start up costs of new technology and the pros and cons of the novelty aspect, and I'm certain that prices will fall in time. However, being a micro-bevel fetishist, I can see the higher grit stones out-performing my beloved Spyderco ceramics, which do a fine job but load faster than the diamond water stones and are not at all good at cutting off any burrs one might have missed when initially shaping the edge with water stones or diamond plates.
Thanks for the demo.
order them for China for 1/4 the cost is what I would say. These naniwa aren't but everything in EDC bro land is a scam or rip off. From 30 cent of generic industrial diamond abrasive slurry being sold by the spoonful in tiny bottles for 1000x markups to Venev stones which sell for $50 in Russia and $300 in the US. It's just dumb. You can get these same stones for about $100 USD, sometimes less, inside Japan. I ordered DMD resin bonded diamond stones from China for about $40 each. They used to cost even less than that. The grit ratings are all over the road but the stones are legit. The "1000" is like a fast cutting 400 that can replace everything from a 220 up. Leaves a great edge. It's all about your skills. If you have skills you can get a better edge than the next guy with every stone in the world off of nothing but a single sheet of 80 grit sandpaper. I get edges that blow through free hanging paper towels off 60 grit sandpaper. it's all about skills. If I want it toothy, I make it toothy or if I want it clean I make it clean, just based on what kind of strokes you use,
I got a question I've got this little custom 1095 fixed blade I put the edge grind at around 30 degrees but can't seem to get a edge on it so I moved to a 40 degree micro bevel on my sharpmaker with ultra fine stones and it's still chips out seemingly no matter what grit or angle I use I assume it's probably a bad temper just way too hard but I was wondering if you have any ideas
Lugermonger Are you sure it's properly apexed? Fully removing the burr? Wire edge?
Herb Toker no I figured it out it was a combination of being forged and a bad heat treatment the grain structure in the steel is just too large to support a fine Edge I did get a decent edge I went convex with a really fine belt on my Work Sharp still not great but cuts
Lugermonger Glad you figured it out. Sad to hear the problem!
Herb Toker the really crappy part is I bought four knives off this guy and all of them have the same problem not as bad but I wouldn't have bought that many Customs off him if I knew he didn't know what he was doing
BBB, do you know if the coarsest stone from this series--400--would be coarse enough to re-profile or begin a sharpening sequence on a dull knife, or should I go with something coarser?
I wasn't the biggest fan of these but I did love the idea. I was in a diamond phase when I bought them, but I've since moved almost entirely away from diamonds. I have an Atoma 140 that I truly love but that's it for diamonds. I've fallen back in love with just a Suehiro Cerax 1k and Shapton Glass 4k. I'll go to the Glass 10k on some knives but really I spend most of my time on those two. If I must I'll go to a Shapton Pro 320 but rarely do I have a knife need that.
These are old news, Super Vitrified Diamond Waterstones are where the highest performance is.
@Jeff Smith
Any specific reason you detest them?
@@Resolute900 not sure I'd say I detest them, they did get the job done. The issue I had is they were kind of half and half but neither side was great. They didn't cut like a diamond stone, and didn't feel like a traditional whetstone. They tried to give the best of both worlds but it was just a miss. There are a number of brilliant diamond plates on the market these days as well as stones that cut similarly to diamonds. These just didn't fit the bill for me.
I'm looking to buy a couple of these stones. Which grits do you recommend? Would the 800 and 3k stones suffice?
I have a big stone video coming up, hang in there
If I were to get two of those or any fast cutting stones I would get them in 800, 3000 grits. (I currently do all my knives sharpenings with Chosera 800 and 3000). Anything else is just added luxury. 800 is fast enough to create a new primary bevel (only several passes more than a 400 or a 600) 3000 in my experience will get your blades sharp enough for most culinary tasks.
Snowwalker agree with you!!
Is the 6000 grit Naniwa diamond waterstone worth getting after the 3000 grit?
In my opinion no depending on what you’re sharpening. After the 3000 used with some naniwa paste maybe 6000 or 10000 (not super necessary) I really haven’t felt any need to go higher because if you’re using a hunting carving or camping knife and you really want it super sharp you could start stropping after the 3000. It has worked for me. For harder powder steel I would just use a higher grit waterstone like a 10000 or 120000 after the 3000. Hope it helped.
How long do these stones last for everyday use?
Excellent question, I'm wondering that myself?
I bet these stones are tough to lap??
no, they also don't dish as fast
Nice technic!
Yep, sharpening knives barefoot. Bad idea. I did that once, dropped a razor edged Japanese deba on my foot. Ended up in hospital.
I'd sharpen on Mars without a spacesuit, Live Dangerously.
This one time I walked outside without sunblock and I drove my car around the block without a helmet and racing harness. I'm pretty risky
@@FearNoSteel No need for being a dickhead. I have watched most of your videos. And liked a good number of them.
Hey type in diamond oilstone on eBay they have #12000 grit diamond stone but they're small and $15
not the same, very very low quality and performance on those
Big Brown Bear Have you tried one yet? I am thinking about it. For the cash of it can handle the tougher steel on the low without damaging I'd be fine with it.
www.ebay.com/itm/400-1000-Diamond-Knife-Sharpening-Stone-Whetstone-Polished-Whetstone-Tool-xi/192438206994?var=492445376564&hash=item2cce360212%3Am%3AmPteA_kx6PlwyLC1Ib3ufPg&_sacat=0&_nkw=diamond+stone+sharpener&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2053587.m570.l1311.R4.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xdiamond+stone.TRS0.TSS0
these are like 3 bux, I thought about buying them to use like sandpaper but not for sharpening
from 8 years of sharpening Id rather just buy what gives me the edges im looking for, anytime ive tried to cheap out it never satisfied the performance I was looking for, I dont know what role a low quality 12k diamond would have use for in my opinion. a coated plate is not the same as an actual diamond waterstone. Id recommend saving your money for something that is higher quality and lasts longer, you could put that $15 towards a Venev diamond waterstone