Je slaat de spijker op zijn kop (You hit the nail on the head) as we say in the Netherlands. 400 grit chosera is amazing. gets your knife shaving. Might not be hair popping but its sharp enough to do every task. also the 400 leaves room for fixing a damaged edge or reprofiling. Smoochy Kiss, Maarten
Great vid ... well done.. good talking points & I totally agree with you. Yes these chosera stones are expensive, but totally worth it. The more you use this stone... the more you will love it. This 400 is in a class of its own, truly it is a work horse stone like no other, and extremely effective on most hard to grind modern super steels. The 600, 800, 1k are all top of the food chain as well. With this chosera pro 400, you can basically go straight from the stone to fine & ultra fine rods polishing the very apex then finish up with a few passes on strops ..... & have a hair whittling edge .... even with most modern high end super steels ie: s90v, s110v, m4, hap40, elmax, xhp, 204p, .... I'm talking folders. If i could only have one stone ...this bad boy is my choice.
And im 100% sure you know this but a great tip for checking you burr is a little flashlight. For beginners it may be hard to feel it or be able to tell if say a small area hasn't gotten a burr yet because the edge was a little dented. Just shine it at the edge with the light parallel with the blade shining down on the edge. The burr will just scream out at you. Great video though, very thorough
I followed your advice and grabbed a Naniwa 400 grit, and wow, I can put a nice finish with that stone alone, I’m even considering throwing it into a survival kit lol.
If you want the 3 best stones with the biggest bang for your bucks then I would choose the black brick, (Nubatama Bamboo 220 grit) the red brick, (Shingata Akamon 1K) and the green brick (Naniwa Aotoshi 2K) stones....Their price range is between $50-60 each. Nothing beats them especially for their size...2 inch thick all 3 of them, hence the name "brick"
@@chadrudolph1596 you need to talk with Ken Swartz at either precise sharpening, or @ chef knives to go (he has the complete line of the Nubatama bambo stones) check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Chp1bkaJQGU/видео.html
Stropping on 60/40 cotton polyester blend (for example, my trousers) works very well on O1, A2, 1095, K720 and even S30V to a lesser degree. I made a strop of this material and it’s great, it really gives the apex back it’s bite. I don’t recommend it for S110V. Haha BBB, lol, of course it’s nothing compared to diamonds on high carbide steels but for simple steels it’s quite good. ;)
One stone only? The Shapton ha-no-kuromaku #320 wins for me. It can repair heavy damage, sharpen knives (to rough) but shave sharp, and with a heavy slurry and light touch refine the edge a bit further. Strop it on my pants and it would get me by indefinitely if required. It’s an impressive stone and leaves a very uniform and nice grey scratch pattern.
Saul Goodman I would say go coarser then 100 it’s going to take forever to apex on a 1000 grit shapton or you could just go and get dmt or atoma plates for your coarse stone
Saul Goodman Sorry it’s such a late reply but I wasn’t notified and only saw your comment by chance. Yes, Shapton are high end ceramic abrasives. Between Shapton and Chosera (Naniwa) you cannot go wrong. Any stone that is made with magnesia as the binder is a great stone. The Shapton #1000 is actually around #700 on the Microns scale. A great stone that cuts well. A good coarse Norton bench stone for fixing damage and the Shapton #1000 is plenty good enough to get started. It can do the job very well.
I agree. An amazing stone, very fast, versatile and consistent, I use it for very dull edges on my big knives, before following up with a medium 1000, than strop, but it can do the job with some stropping if you are in a hurry. I would say it's the best coarse stone on the market, and I have tried a few.
There are many nice double sided stones on Amazon for average of 25$ each .I have about 10 from #120 to #6000 and they work very good.A well polished edge will actually last longer and is better for food,despite not biting into rope so well.I never skip a 2000 or 3000# when sharpening.Ray Mears shows the best and most simple technique for sharpening on YT,although not for re profiling.
and for long knives some of which are 9 inch long carbon steel would you still recommend using a Waterstone asking cause of the rust factor and i'm assuming you would want a wide stone for bigger knifes sorry for all the questions I'm just really excited to get to the next level of another one of my hobbies
Thanks, I am that guy who wants to move to water stones but is on a budget. The other thing is I want to improve my sharing before I make what will be my one expensive knife with an high end steel purchase.
When I sharpen on diamonds I can get my knife hair whittling sharp, but when I sharpen on the 400 super stone it feels dull and won’t cut paper, and I never feel a burr, it’s kind of like the stones not cutting
I have the exact same problem. If I switch over to the Spyderco medium stones, I get a hair popping sharpness in just a few strokes. Did you get better edges off the 400 by now? I try to avoid stropping.
Chosera 2k is pretty solid choice if you could only have 1 waterstone, but why would you only have one waterstone? Also kinda depends on you use. Okay fair, you only need one waterstone. Something that works for what you use, in the sharpening grit range between say 800-2000, roughly. My preference is at the higher range of that. I can get by with just a 2k. If I didn't have ZDP knives, a green brick is one stone to rule the day. 2k chosera. 2k glass. 2k pro. Any of these are awesome choices. I've sharpened ceramic kyocera knives on the shapton pro 2k. If all i had
if you use the 400 stone and strop, would you Recommend black white and green compound as a means of a more refined uniform edge, or do you feel there's o big or significant difference between bare or plain leather like kangaroo or goat, and leather with compound like blk, white,grn red, blue and have you ever tried yellow tormek paste compound I hear good things
+Dan Hazard I like the bark River compounds because they have more abrasives. Not all waxy compounds are created equal. Also I a real big fan of diamond and CBN compounds I'll have to do a video on compounds later
sweet,but dayum how do you find the time,i see the vids you post and the suggestions you get, how do you find time to make or attempt to make specific and/or response videos?
Really grate video I'm just getting into higher and knives which means getting into higher and sharpening stones I'm not ever good with the stone I have now 😞So my question is for Carbon steel or vg10 on high end knifes that I'm going to use in survival knife chopping wood fire prepping what stone would u recommend grit wise 400 600 800 + the straps and would using a 600 stone instead of 400 Stone give you a longer blade life cause it's removing less material each time u sharpen As in usable blade life usable blade life for your knife? Any input would be extremely appreciated thank you
Don't buy exspensive stones , not needed to get a great edge! The best stone to get is a combo or dual grit for the home cook. I got a 1000/6000 dual on Amazon.ca for under $20 cdn. To me it's the best stone for getting a great edge on most kitchen knives. If you have chipped out dented edges, I have a 240/800 grit stone to remove metal faster from damaged edges, even small knicks can take forever to work out with higher grit stones. For fine polishing mirror finish edges I also have a 5000/10000. Leather stroping after any of the higher grit stones is a must as well. This will give you a razor sharp edge.
I have a 1k chosera. I need to replace a 600 stone because its too small and just not that great. It will be following a shapton 320 and before chosera 1k. I heard you say you dont have a chosera 600, so how does the stones do with chosera 400 to chosera 1k? Does it get the 400 scratches out easily and quick? I either want the 400 or 600. But since its lower grits its not the biggest deal but just want the quickest best progression. What do you think?
Saul Goodman The shapton (ha no kuromaku) stones which are the less expensive Japanese ones but supppsedly the same exact thing are great. Awesome prices and they are quality. I never tried the 1k but I have the 2k and it leaves a great edge. Polished nicely and crisp. It is quite hard though, and I expect the 1k to be in the same boat. They are splash and go stones so no need to soak, I just take a squirt bottle with water and spray it down as I need to, but at first it will soak in a bit so wait a couple mins and replenish it. I replaced my 2k shapton with the chosera 2k...and thought he shapton was real good the chosera is just another ballgame. It has the great softish feel while still being hard and leaves awesome edge. But I would go for it, the 1k. For the price you can't beat it. You won't be disappointed. Or if you have an extra 30$ the chosera 800 is supposedly the best stone even in the 1k category. My chosera 1k is sooo awesome I can't imagine the 800 being any better but they say it is. Buy the shapton and try it out, and if you don't like it get something else. That's all you can really do, but I would bet anything you will like it a lot. Good luck!
Je slaat de spijker op zijn kop (You hit the nail on the head) as we say in the Netherlands. 400 grit chosera is amazing. gets your knife shaving. Might not be hair popping but its sharp enough to do every task. also the 400 leaves room for fixing a damaged edge or reprofiling.
Smoochy Kiss,
Maarten
+Dutch Bushcraft Knives hahahaha
Love ya brother
Great vid ... well done.. good talking points & I totally agree with you. Yes these chosera stones are expensive, but totally worth it. The more you use this stone... the more you will love it. This 400 is in a class of its own, truly it is a work horse stone like no other, and extremely effective on most hard to grind modern super steels. The 600, 800, 1k are all top of the food chain as well. With this chosera pro 400, you can basically go straight from the stone to fine & ultra fine rods polishing the very apex then finish up with a few passes on strops ..... & have a hair whittling edge .... even with most modern high end super steels ie: s90v, s110v, m4, hap40, elmax, xhp, 204p, .... I'm talking folders. If i could only have one stone ...this bad boy is my choice.
And im 100% sure you know this but a great tip for checking you burr is a little flashlight. For beginners it may be hard to feel it or be able to tell if say a small area hasn't gotten a burr yet because the edge was a little dented. Just shine it at the edge with the light parallel with the blade shining down on the edge. The burr will just scream out at you. Great video though, very thorough
I followed your advice and grabbed a Naniwa 400 grit, and wow, I can put a nice finish with that stone alone, I’m even considering throwing it into a survival kit lol.
Sean B that a lot of weight for a survival kit
Fallkniven dc4 will be better for what you need in your survival kit
Jimy Brooks the dc4 sucks
It’s too brittle to carry with you all the time. You’ll risk damaging it
Rozutec for me. I find it can be a one stone or used in a two stone.
Certain steels for certain uses do better with a polished edge. With most edges a toothy edge is nice.
If you want the 3 best stones with the biggest bang for your bucks then I would choose the black brick, (Nubatama Bamboo 220 grit) the red brick, (Shingata Akamon 1K) and the green brick (Naniwa Aotoshi 2K) stones....Their price range is between $50-60 each. Nothing beats them especially for their size...2 inch thick all 3 of them, hence the name "brick"
Store link for black brick please?
@@chadrudolph1596 you need to talk with Ken Swartz at either precise sharpening, or @ chef knives to go (he has the complete line of the Nubatama bambo stones) check out this video: ruclips.net/video/Chp1bkaJQGU/видео.html
Hard to find them here in Italy unfortunately , I will see how I like my KSD 1200 grit :)
Strop with newspaper afterwards, works on hard steels as well and costs you.. zero. Also doesn’t polish away the toothiness. See Murray Carter.
Nah, not as effective as 1um diamond. I was using newspaper 5 years ago. I've moved on.
Big Brown Bear Ah sorry, was more meant to be a hint for people who just want to work with /buy one stone and nothing else - forgot to say that :-)
Stropping on 60/40 cotton polyester blend (for example, my trousers) works very well on O1, A2, 1095, K720 and even S30V to a lesser degree.
I made a strop of this material and it’s great, it really gives the apex back it’s bite.
I don’t recommend it for S110V. Haha
BBB, lol, of course it’s nothing compared to diamonds on high carbide steels but for simple steels it’s quite good. ;)
How does this compare with King Neo 800?
Good info....the lower grit edge lasts longer, didn't know that.
Hey Brown Bear, steeling does a abraid the apex and doesn’t align the apex. Try edge leading strokes to reduce the burr.
Doesn't work on hard steel, use a ceramic rod.
Excellent tip!
One stone only? The Shapton ha-no-kuromaku #320 wins for me. It can repair heavy damage, sharpen knives (to rough) but shave sharp, and with a heavy slurry and light touch refine the edge a bit further. Strop it on my pants and it would get me by indefinitely if required.
It’s an impressive stone and leaves a very uniform and nice grey scratch pattern.
Wolf Hedegaard is shapton a good stone? I'm leaning towards the 1k as my first stone. What would you say?
Saul Goodman I would say go coarser then 100 it’s going to take forever to apex on a 1000 grit shapton or you could just go and get dmt or atoma plates for your coarse stone
Saul Goodman
Sorry it’s such a late reply but I wasn’t notified and only saw your comment by chance.
Yes, Shapton are high end ceramic abrasives. Between Shapton and Chosera (Naniwa) you cannot go wrong.
Any stone that is made with magnesia as the binder is a great stone.
The Shapton #1000 is actually around #700 on the Microns scale. A great stone that cuts well.
A good coarse Norton bench stone for fixing damage and the Shapton #1000 is plenty good enough to get started. It can do the job very well.
Wolf Hedegaard idk I always preferred a coarser stone I thought the 1000 was a bit slow on harder steels
I agree. An amazing stone, very fast, versatile and consistent, I use it for very dull edges on my big knives, before following up with a medium 1000, than strop, but it can do the job with some stropping if you are in a hurry. I would say it's the best coarse stone on the market, and I have tried a few.
how would these chosera work on s110v?
There are many nice double sided stones on Amazon for average of 25$ each .I have about 10 from #120 to #6000 and they work very good.A well polished edge will actually last longer and is better for food,despite not biting into rope so well.I never skip a 2000 or 3000# when sharpening.Ray Mears shows the best and most simple technique for sharpening on YT,although not for re profiling.
You could also flatten your stone cheaply by putting wet sand paper on a flat surface, such as glass, and grind untill all pencil marks are gone.
Nice, thanks:)
and for long knives some of which are 9 inch long carbon steel would you still recommend using a Waterstone asking cause of the rust factor and i'm assuming you would want a wide stone for bigger knifes sorry for all the questions I'm just really excited to get to the next level of another one of my hobbies
Thank you, very much!
Thanks, I am that guy who wants to move to water stones but is on a budget. The other thing is I want to improve my sharing before I make what will be my one expensive knife with an high end steel purchase.
Nice brother. Remember there is no perfect answer to this one stone thing. In all honesty to is whats needed.
I’d have a combo stone
When I sharpen on diamonds I can get my knife hair whittling sharp, but when I sharpen on the 400 super stone it feels dull and won’t cut paper, and I never feel a burr, it’s kind of like the stones not cutting
I have the exact same problem. If I switch over to the Spyderco medium stones, I get a hair popping sharpness in just a few strokes. Did you get better edges off the 400 by now? I try to avoid stropping.
Chosera 2k is pretty solid choice if you could only have 1 waterstone, but why would you only have one waterstone? Also kinda depends on you use. Okay fair, you only need one waterstone. Something that works for what you use, in the sharpening grit range between say 800-2000, roughly. My preference is at the higher range of that. I can get by with just a 2k. If I didn't have ZDP knives, a green brick is one stone to rule the day. 2k chosera. 2k glass. 2k pro. Any of these are awesome choices. I've sharpened ceramic kyocera knives on the shapton pro 2k. If all i had
if you use the 400 stone and strop, would you Recommend black white and green compound as a means of a more refined uniform edge, or do you feel there's o big or significant difference between bare or plain leather like kangaroo or goat, and leather with compound like blk, white,grn red, blue
and have you ever tried yellow tormek paste compound I hear good things
+Dan Hazard I like the bark River compounds because they have more abrasives. Not all waxy compounds are created equal.
Also I a real big fan of diamond and CBN compounds
I'll have to do a video on compounds later
sweet,but dayum how do you find the time,i see the vids you post and the suggestions you get, how do you find time to make or attempt to make specific and/or response videos?
Dan Hazard I have insomnia
Dan Hazard and I'm obsessed. It consumes my thoughts at all times, every moment.
hahaha, Oralè!
say no more I gotcha.
stay safe
Naniwa 1000 3000 whetstone. The best budget and practical whetstone.
Really grate video I'm just getting into higher and knives which means getting into higher and sharpening stones I'm not ever good with the stone I have now 😞So my question is for Carbon steel or vg10 on high end knifes that I'm going to use in survival knife chopping wood fire prepping what stone would u recommend grit wise 400 600 800 + the straps and would using a 600 stone instead of 400 Stone give you a longer blade life cause it's removing less material each time u sharpen As in usable blade life usable blade life for your knife? Any input would be extremely appreciated thank you
Made a video based on your theme. Linked back to your channel. Hope it's cool.
Hell yea, Its always cool brother, spread the knife knowledge
Don't buy exspensive stones , not needed to get a great edge! The best stone to get is a combo or dual grit for the home cook. I got a 1000/6000 dual on Amazon.ca for under $20 cdn. To me it's the best stone for getting a great edge on most kitchen knives. If you have chipped out dented edges, I have a 240/800 grit stone to remove metal faster from damaged edges, even small knicks can take forever to work out with higher grit stones. For fine polishing mirror finish edges I also have a 5000/10000. Leather stroping after any of the higher grit stones is a must as well. This will give you a razor sharp edge.
Nah, worth the investment to get a nicer stone, don't know what ya don't know.
im that little guy :)
good video
Always good to help out the newcomers. :)
Thanks bro
Naniwa p800 and p3000 and you are done. Everything more is just for stone lovers
I am a beginner and these are the two grits I have chosen. Choseras. I hope they work well for all my pocket folders and kitchen knives.
I also have a strop.
I have a 1k chosera. I need to replace a 600 stone because its too small and just not that great. It will be following a shapton 320 and before chosera 1k. I heard you say you dont have a chosera 600, so how does the stones do with chosera 400 to chosera 1k? Does it get the 400 scratches out easily and quick? I either want the 400 or 600. But since its lower grits its not the biggest deal but just want the quickest best progression. What do you think?
Paul Lonardo how is the shapton stone? I am looking at them now and I am leaning towards a 1k
Saul Goodman The shapton (ha no kuromaku) stones which are the less expensive Japanese ones but supppsedly the same exact thing are great. Awesome prices and they are quality. I never tried the 1k but I have the 2k and it leaves a great edge. Polished nicely and crisp. It is quite hard though, and I expect the 1k to be in the same boat. They are splash and go stones so no need to soak, I just take a squirt bottle with water and spray it down as I need to, but at first it will soak in a bit so wait a couple mins and replenish it. I replaced my 2k shapton with the chosera 2k...and thought he shapton was real good the chosera is just another ballgame. It has the great softish feel while still being hard and leaves awesome edge. But I would go for it, the 1k. For the price you can't beat it. You won't be disappointed. Or if you have an extra 30$ the chosera 800 is supposedly the best stone even in the 1k category. My chosera 1k is sooo awesome I can't imagine the 800 being any better but they say it is. Buy the shapton and try it out, and if you don't like it get something else. That's all you can really do, but I would bet anything you will like it a lot. Good luck!