Useful video thanks from the uk, I'll be doing mine soon. I'll replace tensioner and water pump while it's stripped down, for the small extra cost in parts it'll save taking it all to bits again later down the line 👍
The problem that I had was every time I put tension on the new belt it would jump a couple of teeth (not good) some how (after 20 times I got it ) It runs like a champ now and less time at the pump now! 1994 Ford Ranger Splash 234,000 I now get to do a timing belt on a Mazda 626 2.0 this week wish me luck .
Hey Todd, I have been at it today on my 1998 ranger 2.5. I have done it about 10 times, so possible half way there :) I put the Keyway on Crankshaft spindle at 12, matched up other timing marks with the diamonds just like Haynes manual says and it just wont start I cannot figure out why.
what size bolts can you use on the holes to remove the harmonic balancer? I was going to buy a wheel puller with claws because until now I did not know it has bolt holes. Thanks you for the video.
got it thanks.. I have a question my belt broke so how do I know if the marks on the cam and oil are right? I noticed when I was rotating the crankshaft that both of the other pulleys are 2 to one since the crankshaft is smaller. so now I am afraid the marks would be on the wrong rotation.
No, I didn't really move it out of the way. I removed the screw that holds the long hose under the coils to give me a little more slack but first I used some string to hang the compressor by the intake runner. I tried to keep the compressor from moving around as much as possible just for that reason;
Nice the easier plugs on that side, yeah makes sense! good video. Will be doing this once warmer. I probably replace both timing and serpentine and flush radiator while I am at it.
No you don't necessarily have to if you have good line-up marks on your pulleys. It's just something mechanics do that want to be really precise and check the marks. It's actually not good to rely just on that, because remember there's 2 top centers, one at combustion and one at exhaust. The one we're looking for, top "dead" center is the one on or right before combustion stroke, but unless your motor got seriously out of whack somewhere along the line, its going to line up with the marks. Yeah I kind of take issue with mechanics that inspect the spark plug holes to see where the top really is because unless they're going to do the same thing with the cams and valves its kind of a fruitless venture. Either you trust whoever made the marks all the way (the guy who built the car) or you don't. I mean if you think it makes you look cool, by all means but I'd spend most of my looking energy lining those marks up if I were you. If the belt broke on an interference engine and you're wondering if all hell broke loose in there then sure, you'll probably be taking the valve cover off and checking everything anyway.
loosen the bolt stick a tire iron in between the pulley & bolt that has a spring, once it's pulled enough tighten the bolt itll hold in place then after belts on loosen bolt it'll tighten back up then tighten bolt n shazammm
It was time to replace the timing belt on my 1998 Ranger 2.5. It seemed like it had been losing power and running kind of rough. When removing the harmonic balancer I noticed that the aluminum sensor wheel had some broken teeth. So the belt was removed a harmonic balancer was purchased (used). Once reassembled the truck ran rough and a code for the camshaft sensor came up. I have since replaced the harmonic balancer for one that was gauranteed to be the correct one, replaced the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, and the ecm with no improvement. I have taken it all apart and I am rechecking the crankshaft, camshaft and camshaft sensor pulley marks, they are all spot on. Not sure where to go from here, does anyone have any suggestions?
Hello, what was the problem with the truck? did you find out? I asked you because I have a truck like yours and it's running rough, too.@@grumpygrampy8646
I didn't do that but I think it means that you manually turn everything until the other timing mark on the camshaft comes around so that you take up the slack in the belt and to make sure nothing inside will hit when you start the engine.
Did you have any trouble turning the oil pump (auxiliary shaft) sprocket to get oil pump timing set. I am working on a 98 ford ranger (same as mazda). The belt actually broke while driving. Did some research and discovered the ford Lima 4 engine is not an interference engine so Im assuming the valves have not been damaged. I have everything off and am ready to install belt but I cannot rotate the Oil pump sprocket (auxiliary shaft) to get the timing marks aligned. Any Idea what is happening here?
Mine was still in one piece but it was old so I simply replaced it. I did not let any thing turn. If you need to have it turn, have you removed passenger side spark plugs to remove compression? Hope this helps.
+Franki F No, I simply removed the tension to allow the timing belt to fit. Afterwards, the bolt is unscrewed slightly to allow the tensioner to tension the new belt again.
+Martín pescador Lo unico que se explica es pieza de herramienta 'especial' que fue construida en casa y como mover la rueda que da tencion a la correa para poder metersela.
+Martín pescador Veo en el video que se puede poner subtitulos oprimiendo donde dice CC al fondo de el video y cambiando el lenguaje para que se pueda leer en español. Bueno....mas o menos ya que RUclips dice que puede traducir pero lo hace como un ciego que dice que puede ver!
Useful video thanks from the uk, I'll be doing mine soon.
I'll replace tensioner and water pump while it's stripped down, for the small extra cost in parts it'll save taking it all to bits again later down the line 👍
The problem that I had was every time I put tension on the new belt it would jump a couple of teeth (not good) some how (after 20 times I got it ) It runs like a champ now and less time at the pump now! 1994 Ford Ranger Splash 234,000 I now get to do a timing belt on a Mazda 626 2.0 this week wish me luck .
Hey Todd, I have been at it today on my 1998 ranger 2.5. I have done it about 10 times, so possible half way there :) I put the Keyway on Crankshaft spindle at 12, matched up other timing marks with the diamonds just like Haynes manual says and it just wont start I cannot figure out why.
great idea love it
what size bolts can you use on the holes to remove the harmonic balancer? I was going to buy a wheel puller with claws because until now I did not know it has bolt holes. Thanks you for the video.
+mspmotorcop I believe these are 13 mm bolts Maybe 15mm.
got it thanks.. I have a question my belt broke so how do I know if the marks on the cam and oil are right? I noticed when I was rotating the crankshaft that both of the other pulleys are 2 to one since the crankshaft is smaller. so now I am afraid the marks would be on the wrong rotation.
Howd u get the timing belt cover off...I see the serpentine bearing still attached but on mine it looks like it and it's bracket have to come off.
Were you able to move the AC compressor and lines out of the way without cracking open the lines and releasing Freon?
No, I didn't really move it out of the way. I removed the screw that holds the long hose under the coils to give me a little more slack but first I used some string to hang the compressor by the intake runner. I tried to keep the compressor from moving around as much as possible just for that reason;
that's awesome, thanks for the tip.
How can you tell when the cam is at five o'clock if you have no reference point to set it
Do you have to remove water pump pulley to remove the cover?
***** No. The pump is still attached but I did remove the radiator so the water has to come out.
Do you have to pull the #1 spark plug to be able to rotate the camshaft and get all the gears lined up?
Curt's Clocks i pulled all the ones on the passenger side and lined all the marks before taking off the old belt and simply put on the new one.
Nice the easier plugs on that side, yeah makes sense! good video. Will be doing this once warmer. I probably replace both timing and serpentine and flush radiator while I am at it.
Qiero poner atienpo un motor de un hoda civic sedan año 1983
No you don't necessarily have to if you have good line-up marks on your pulleys. It's just something mechanics do that want to be really precise and check the marks. It's actually not good to rely just on that, because remember there's 2 top centers, one at combustion and one at exhaust. The one we're looking for, top "dead" center is the one on or right before combustion stroke, but unless your motor got seriously out of whack somewhere along the line, its going to line up with the marks. Yeah I kind of take issue with mechanics that inspect the spark plug holes to see where the top really is because unless they're going to do the same thing with the cams and valves its kind of a fruitless venture. Either you trust whoever made the marks all the way (the guy who built the car) or you don't. I mean if you think it makes you look cool, by all means but I'd spend most of my looking energy lining those marks up if I were you. If the belt broke on an interference engine and you're wondering if all hell broke loose in there then sure, you'll probably be taking the valve cover off and checking everything anyway.
Curt's Clocks yes cylinder 1 has to be all the way up.. but don't get the two confused between the exhaust stroke and intake stroke..
loosen the bolt stick a tire iron in between the pulley & bolt that has a spring, once it's pulled enough tighten the bolt itll hold in place then after belts on loosen bolt it'll tighten back up then tighten bolt n shazammm
Bom dia daqui do Brasil Porto Alegre
It was time to replace the timing belt on my 1998 Ranger 2.5. It seemed like it had been losing power and running kind of rough. When removing the harmonic balancer I noticed that the aluminum sensor wheel had some broken teeth. So the belt was removed a harmonic balancer was purchased (used). Once reassembled the truck ran rough and a code for the camshaft sensor came up. I have since replaced the harmonic balancer for one that was gauranteed to be the correct one, replaced the camshaft sensor, the crankshaft sensor, and the ecm with no improvement. I have taken it all apart and I am rechecking the crankshaft, camshaft and camshaft sensor pulley marks, they are all spot on. Not sure where to go from here, does anyone have any suggestions?
+Mario Martinez. Hello Mario, I don't know if you still having this issue but I bet your cam shaft pulley is 180° off.
I removed all the covers and rechecked all the timing marks and they were right on the the money.
Hello, what was the problem with the truck? did you find out? I asked you because I have a truck like yours and it's running rough, too.@@grumpygrampy8646
after 12 hours of frustration I shot the truck with my AR 10 and hauled it to the scrapyard. i need a beer as well
You let a thing kick your ass? You should have slept on it and the solution would have come to you in a dream.
so i have everything lined up and its says turn half a turn what does that mean? is that the compression stroke ?
I didn't do that but I think it means that you manually turn everything until the other timing mark on the camshaft comes around so that you take up the slack in the belt and to make sure nothing inside will hit when you start the engine.
What size are the thread for the gear puller. I heard they were about 8mm but what is the thread pitch.
Not sure. I went and borrowed this from Autozone.
Did you have any trouble turning the oil pump (auxiliary shaft) sprocket to get oil pump timing set. I am working on a 98 ford ranger (same as mazda). The belt actually broke while driving. Did some research and discovered the ford Lima 4 engine is not an interference engine so Im assuming the valves have not been damaged. I have everything off and am ready to install belt but I cannot rotate the Oil pump sprocket (auxiliary shaft) to get the timing marks aligned. Any Idea what is happening here?
Mine was still in one piece but it was old so I simply replaced it. I did not let any thing turn. If you need to have it turn, have you removed passenger side spark plugs to remove compression? Hope this helps.
did you replaced the timing tensioner??
+Franki F No, I simply removed the tension to allow the timing belt to fit. Afterwards, the bolt is unscrewed slightly to allow the tensioner to tension the new belt again.
+Garras Porgratix that tensioner looks rusty, it might fail soon. not to be an ass or anything but it can cause you problems in the future.
Not much on a Ford ranger XLT 2.3l timing belt replacement. Can someone please please help me????
That's a 1994
Much easier on a genie lmao
nesecito este video en español
+Martín pescador Lo unico que se explica es pieza de herramienta 'especial' que fue construida en casa y como mover la rueda que da tencion a la correa para poder metersela.
+Martín pescador Veo en el video que se puede poner subtitulos oprimiendo donde dice CC al fondo de el video y cambiando el lenguaje para que se pueda leer en español. Bueno....mas o menos ya que RUclips dice que puede traducir pero lo hace como un ciego que dice que puede ver!
Should have got training really 🤷♂️😂
What side do I move the crankshaft pulley bolt to unloose it? Left or right?