Ford Ranger Timing Marks/ Timing Belt Replacement Without The Tensioner Tool!
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- 1998 Ford Ranger 2.5L Timing Belt Install Without the Tensioner Tool!
Timing Marks
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Here is a link for the timing set with the belt, water pump, and tensioner
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Here is a link for the timing set with the belt and tensioner
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I appreciate the video brother. Mine snapped on the highway yesterday. That was fun. lol.
I have done a fair share of timing belts but never on the ford 2.5. I just needed to know the timing marks and where to align them. Your video I think does the trick... I will find out tomorrow morning, the goal is 3 hours start to finish in the truck let's see if I can do it quickly.
Thanks for the video..
Tip: I cranked the tentioner all the way back and then tightened down the smaller bolt (on the left) to hold the tensioner back. Then once the belt is on, you loosen that bolt and it tightens the belt up. Then retighten.
I'm in the process of doing one now and just cant seem to get it right. Every time we release the tension, it usually knocks the cam off a mark.
@@davethemagnificent2576 i noticed the bottom crank was slightly off the line but worked out in the end.
@@davethemagnificent2576 : Rotate the engine a couple of times by hand, pulling the #1 exhaust plug to decompress the motor. Do this by rotating the crankshaft four times (2 times per camshaft rotation).
This should relieve any slack in the belt. Re-check and verify your timing marks after doing so. If your camshaft sprocket ends up off a tooth, put the timing mark of the camshaft before the mark on the cover, and see if that doesnt help, since the engine has to have 10° BTDC timing to run correctly. Another couple of things to do:
1) After you tighten the 13mm adjusting bolt with the proper torque, tighten the spring bolt down as well. Doing this will prevent the spring bolt from overcoming the torque on the tensioner bolt, and prevent the belt from jumping teeth under load (though the belt will still stretch over time, due to wear and use).
2) Once you have verified your marks on the timing cover, put the harmonic balancer back on and attempt to run the truck between 10 and 20 seconds. If the engine runs, then you know the timing is right, and can put it back together.
thank you for the best job explaining the job
Very helpful and preciate cha on that 411
Great shots of your back and arm!
The timing worked perfect
nice video! worked out rather well on mine. thanks. whats in tbose jugs on the ground behind the motor?
great video thanks for your time in putting worth information togetther
Thank you for watching! God bless!
2018 thank you
Tylar Calvert
I'm really excited to know some of these videos are helpful! Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already.
I set the piston to TDC on plug 1 on the compression stroke and then aligned everything. Does that matter? And I couldn't see my valve assembly position so hopefully that is all good.
By aligning all this point, do we still need to check cylinder 1? Or will this be all it takes to be able to fire it up?
When you line up the crankshaft timing mark, the # 1 cylinder will be at top dead center.
I have a question. Is the timing belt supposed to have some play in it? I can move mine back and fourth buy still tight on the pulleys
are them marks are automatically tdc?
Thanks for the video. Can tell me where the pistons should be when the timing marks all line up? Is it TDC in cylinder 1? I'm trying to diagnose timing problem without taking harmonic balancer off the crank shaft. The harm. balancer has two lines that pass the rotation markings (BT, 30, 20, 10, TC...) on the T belt cover and I'm hoping to use that as a first check.
ive got a 96 mazda 2300 that we belive has a timing issue my question for you is the very bottom mark on the crank do you have to pull the balancer off or is there another way to check and see if it has jumped time? we got the top and middle marks lined up
There should be a rubber plug on the front timing cover, with it removed, you can have someone turn the motor while you watch for rotation. You could also just pull back the top timing cover while someone cranks it over to check for rotation. On some motors, you can see the camshaft by removing the oil fill cap. In this case, if the cam isn't spinning while someone cranks the motor, the timing belt is broke. Even if you could see the timing belt wrapped around the cam(s) sprocket, it could still be broke, most of the time, the teeth strip off at the crankshaft. If all timing components still have rotation and you suspect that the timing has jumped, there should be a timing mark on the balancer and outside of the timing cover at the balancer. You could also remove cylinder 1 spark plug (closest to the front of the truck) and stick something in the cylinder. Use something long enough not to drop and lose in the cylinder, maybe a clothes hanger? Might also be a good idea to disconnect the battery. Turn the motor by hand until you feel the piston is all the way up at top dead center. At this point, the marks at the crankshaft will be aligned and the camshaft should be. If the camshaft isn't, the timing is out.
Hope this helps
I just re-read your comment, keep in mind that the camshaft spins twice to every one of the crankshaft. If you spin the motor and the marks don't align, rotate the crank another 360 rotation and check again.
@@You-Tube...005 do you have a good picture of the bottom mark?
@@edwardlochbihler2089 I don't, just the video. I did this quite a while ago.
@@You-Tube...005 bummer this thing idles fine but give it gas and it pukes out then turns the back three exhaust tubes glowing red thought it was a blocked cat but we cleared it out and it still does it
Why don't you just pry it over and lock it in place with the lock nut put the belt on and then release the locknut?
Why not put the tensioner on use the pry bar to push it in and then tighten the tensioner bolt. Now put your belt on and just loosen the tensiner bolt and it will move into to place then tighten it..done.
THat's exactly what that bolt is for the milled slot has a distinct purpose , You pry the tensioner all the way to the end of the slot tighten the bolt 13 mm then install your timing belt once in place you loosen the bolt and the tensioner snaps into the proper tension
Hey Bud....A for effort....but almost none of your " trick" could be seen on the video....
Your back completely covered the work....
Next time have someone help you with the camera....
It seems like you know what your doing with the wrenches...
My cam don’t have a diamond on it
I don't have diamond or triangle only the
Why not move the camera so we didn't just watch the back of your shirt ?
Imagine saying you’ll stay out of the way in the video and continuing to post a video where you’re in the way.
Did it help you? Imagine that!
Ok said godam 88 not 98
No puede onoo
that's scary...with me using the pry bar