I recently got a Rolleiflex Automat X k4 1950. One thing you forgot to mention is that you can set the shutter speeds from B to 1/125 before or after cocking the shutter, but 1/500 can only be selected before cocking the shutter.😊
Thanks for recommending Mark Hansen. I sent one of my two Rolleiflexes to CA and was told that it's no repairable due to "liquid damage." I'm not doubting that, but I'm going to contact Mark about my second Relleiflex. Both of them were made in the early 50's and share the bayonet mount and view finder.
I am a TLR lover and currently have 4 Rolleiflexes, a Rolleicord, 3 Yashica-mat 124's, a Minolta Autocord, a Flexaret IV, a Ciro-Flex and probably a few others I've got hidden somewhere. Every time I think that I have too many of them and decide to have a sale, I end up sending one off for a CLA instead. LOL!! From the wear marks near the film advance, I'd say that is a well-loved camera! Anyone who thinks that DSLR's are the ultimate has never advanced the film and clicked the shutter on a Rolleiflex! Thank you for a great review of a much loved camera!
They started to make Rolleiflex TLRs in 1929. Prototypes even in 1927. I have a Rolleiflex model K2 621 that was produced from 1932-1935. DRP are cameras made before 1945, cause after WWII "Deutsches Reich" stopped to exist and "Bundesrepublik Deutschland" began. So DRP is "Deutsches Reichspatent" and DBP is "Deutsches Bundespatent". Greetings from Germany
Very good video on this camera, the best I've seen yet. I bought one several days ago and it's scheduled to arrive today. Needless to say, I'm excited and can hardly wait. You pointed out some features I didn't know, like the auto timer, as an example. Thanks for sharing. If I have any questions after I get the camera, I'll consult with you. Thanks again.
Very enjoyable video! A man who appreciates the engineering and beauty of the old cameras! I'm looking into getting back in to film and shooting 120 film Having a tough time deciding if I want to go with a TLR 6x6 or Folding camera with 6x9! I'll mostly be shooting B&W and develop myself! You make a great case for the Rolleiflex!
Good video. I have a quick question though: at the timeline 14:30 of the video, if you look at the camera's lens board where it is closest to the body, you will notice the top part of the board is slightly farther away from the camera body than the bottom part of the board. Is that normal? Does it create focus issues since it's not absolutely plumb? Just curious.
@@krisb8781....yes, I know. But I am trying to point out the camera's profile view in which the lensboard seem to be not parallel to the body. Do you see it? I am not talking about what you are describing, but the anomaly I notice in your particular camera.
Really nice video! I purchased a Rolleiflex Automat K4B 1954-1956 just last week through Ebay.I did not know about the flip down lens, only from watching your video did it ring through, trying the Ilford B&W film at the moment.Which film would you recommend in colour for this camera?Is there a certain type of film that goes well with Rolleiflex alone.I also noticed when I move the camera one way, it goes the other and vice versa, it will take some time to get use to!Thanks for your video!Cool!
Hi, any film will work. I like BW because it's easier to develop at home and I just like that feel. I very seldom develop color film and I use Kodark Portra or Fuji brand.
Thank You very much!Its great to hear back and get information, will look into this,I just have to make sure or even practice with different exposure levels.Great stuff! @@krisb8781
Hallo, Kris superb, superb presentation! Kindly askin' 4 the name of the person / company that fixes ROLLEIs. Thank you! PS / German Marches sound FANTASTIC!
Kristijan, thank you for taking time to comment. The person is Mark Hansen and look up Zeiss Camera repair in google. His wait times are very long, but he does great work.
■ 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗿𝗮𝘁𝘂𝗹𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀, 𝗮 𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝗰𝗹𝗲𝗮𝗿 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 ■ I think the price of this camera goes between 175 and 300 US dollars. ■ Is it possible to use a 35 mm film?
It depends on the condition of the camera and if you want to use it or just keep it on the shelf. If you want to use it and the shutter is not working or focusing is stiff. Send it in for repair, have the camera serviced and it will be in working order for another 30 years. These cameras are bulletproof if taken care of. I recommend Rolleiclub.com as good source for info on these cameras.
+The8TrackChap Mark is in Portland and his prices are lower. With Harry, you pay for name as well. Mark does great job. I have sent him four Rolleis all came back 100% working. To compare I paid $420 for Harry to fix an automat and I paid $260 for Mark to fix the same camera (different specimen)
It was actually made between October 1949 and May 1951. The Rolleiflex Automat was redesigned a bit in 1949 and got a new viewing hood, X-synch for flash and a new lock for the shutter release. Are you sure you read the serial number correctly?
Thank you for your comment. My serial number is 1.080.XXX Which puts it between October 1945 - September 1949 Serials: 1.050.000 - 1.099.999 according to Rolleiclub index.
@@krisb8781 This is fascinating. According to the model descriptions and photos on Rolleiclub, your Automat is the later model K4/50 but your camera has an earlier serial number. I would absolutely identify your camera as a model K4/50 but with a mystery serial number. Possibly its a Prototype?? I have an Automat K4B2 with a later serial number of 1.085.4xx. This is later serial number than yours. But my camera is definitely the older model. Unlike yours, my camera has the serial number on the front of the camera and the letters DRP --- DRGM. Mine also has the older style pop-up viewing hood arrangement. But mine is clearly a Post-War model K4B2 with the Zeiss-Opton lens and the FRANKE & HEIDECKE name moved from the middle to the bottom of the camera face.
I have a K4B2 with a serial just below 1062000, the view-finder is a simpler one, there is no flash sync, the actual shutter release is not threaded for a cable release and instead the cable release is where the later models have the flash sync. I think the answer is that yours has been updated to 1955 spec as regards flash sync and the view-finder; the Rollei club pages note that the following parts of the K4B2 can be modernized to 1955 standard: waist level finder, larger focusing knob, double exposure safety lock, viewing lens bayonet, X-sync contact. The Rollei club pages also say that the K4B2 has an unpainted film pressure plate, like yours (and mine) whereas the K4/50 and later models have a black coloured one.
I recently got a Rolleiflex Automat X k4 1950. One thing you forgot to mention is that you can set the shutter speeds from B to 1/125 before or after cocking the shutter, but 1/500 can only be selected before cocking the shutter.😊
Thanks for recommending Mark Hansen. I sent one of my two Rolleiflexes to CA and was told that it's no repairable due to "liquid damage." I'm not doubting that, but I'm going to contact Mark about my second Relleiflex. Both of them were made in the early 50's and share the bayonet mount and view finder.
I am a TLR lover and currently have 4 Rolleiflexes, a Rolleicord, 3 Yashica-mat 124's, a Minolta Autocord, a Flexaret IV, a Ciro-Flex and probably a few others I've got hidden somewhere. Every time I think that I have too many of them and decide to have a sale, I end up sending one off for a CLA instead. LOL!! From the wear marks near the film advance, I'd say that is a well-loved camera! Anyone who thinks that DSLR's are the ultimate has never advanced the film and clicked the shutter on a Rolleiflex! Thank you for a great review of a much loved camera!
They started to make Rolleiflex TLRs in 1929. Prototypes even in 1927. I have a Rolleiflex model K2 621 that was produced from 1932-1935. DRP are cameras made before 1945, cause after WWII "Deutsches Reich" stopped to exist and "Bundesrepublik Deutschland" began. So DRP is "Deutsches Reichspatent" and DBP is "Deutsches Bundespatent". Greetings from Germany
Vielen dank !
Very nice video! Thank you for all the good information.
'feast your ears' hahah I love your enthusiasm
Just got one of these today. In love with it already. Great video!
Very good video on this camera, the best I've seen yet. I bought one several days ago and it's scheduled to arrive today. Needless to say, I'm excited and can hardly wait. You pointed out some features I didn't know, like the auto timer, as an example. Thanks for sharing. If I have any questions after I get the camera, I'll consult with you. Thanks again.
Very enjoyable video! A man who appreciates the engineering and beauty of the old cameras! I'm looking into getting back in to film and shooting 120 film Having a tough time deciding if I want to go with a TLR 6x6 or Folding camera with 6x9! I'll mostly be shooting B&W and develop myself! You make a great case for the Rolleiflex!
Great information on this camera. It helped me a lot.
The way you describe the sounds…I soooo agree!!! lol
Great video thanks. I have a 2.8F (and a Yeshica) but I'm thinking of getting an Automat because it is simpler and less cluttered.
the automats rock! I like them better than more expensive Rolleis! good video.
+Jason Philbrook Thank you for watching and commenting.
Great video! Thank you.
love this shutter sound!! similar like mamiya c3..
What to do if the front dieals don't want to rotate? Mine are stuck.
Good video. I have a quick question though: at the timeline 14:30 of the video, if you look at the camera's lens board where it is closest to the body, you will notice the top part of the board is slightly farther away from the camera body than the bottom part of the board. Is that normal? Does it create focus issues since it's not absolutely plumb? Just curious.
Hi in this video 14.30 talks about automated frame transport.
@@krisb8781....yes, I know. But I am trying to point out the camera's profile view in which the lensboard seem to be not parallel to the body. Do you see it? I am not talking about what you are describing, but the anomaly I notice in your particular camera.
underneath the lamp light by the barracks gate ......... me and my rolli went out upon a date .......
Really nice video! I purchased a Rolleiflex Automat K4B 1954-1956 just last week through Ebay.I did not know about the flip down lens, only from watching your video did it ring through, trying the Ilford B&W film at the moment.Which film would you recommend in colour for this camera?Is there a certain type of film that goes well with Rolleiflex alone.I also noticed when I move the camera one way, it goes the other and vice versa, it will take some time to get use to!Thanks for your video!Cool!
Hi, any film will work. I like BW because it's easier to develop at home and I just like that feel. I very seldom develop color film and I use Kodark Portra or Fuji brand.
Thank You very much!Its great to hear back and get information, will look into this,I just have to make sure or even practice with different exposure levels.Great stuff! @@krisb8781
Hallo, Kris superb, superb presentation! Kindly askin' 4 the name of the person / company that fixes ROLLEIs. Thank you! PS / German Marches sound FANTASTIC!
Kristijan, thank you for taking time to comment. The person is Mark Hansen and look up Zeiss Camera repair in google. His wait times are very long, but he does great work.
Super, many thanks! And congrats for the clear post on Rollei. Thanks again.
Hi Kris, we here are stunned about this jewel. I am Kristijan cousin and he contaminated the whole family with Rollei... I very nice virus!
■ 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗿𝗮𝘁𝘂𝗹𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀, 𝗮 𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝗰𝗹𝗲𝗮𝗿 𝗲𝘅𝗽𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻
■ I think the price of this camera goes between 175 and 300 US dollars.
■ Is it possible to use a 35 mm film?
I think the Minolta autocord deserves to be listed in the same tier as the rollei and Yashica.... : /
how do you set the ISO for the film in the camera?
ingapirca you dont. The camera doesnt have a meter. You use external meter or synny 16
Kris Bochenek got it thanks!
Hello. I have just received through family lineage a DRP Rolleiflex serial 1215044. Care to give me some insight on model? And capabilities?
It depends on the condition of the camera and if you want to use it or just keep it on the shelf. If you want to use it and the shutter is not working or focusing is stiff. Send it in for repair, have the camera serviced and it will be in working order for another 30 years. These cameras are bulletproof if taken care of. I recommend Rolleiclub.com as good source for info on these cameras.
Kris Bochenek I will be using it. It is im good shape and shutter is not stiff. I will definitely send it in for CLA
Who's better, Mark Hansen or Harry Fleenor?
Mark Hansen hands down. Speed quality and price. I used both.
Do they both service Yashica and Rollei TLRs, or is Harry only for Rollei?
+The8TrackChap Both do Rollei. The only one I use for Yashica TLR or Lynx is Mark Hama.
I believe Harry Fleenor is in California, where is Mark Hansen. And who has better pricing, or is it about the same?
+The8TrackChap Mark is in Portland and his prices are lower. With Harry, you pay for name as well. Mark does great job. I have sent him four Rolleis all came back 100% working. To compare I paid $420 for Harry to fix an automat and I paid $260 for Mark to fix the same camera (different specimen)
It was actually made between October 1949 and May 1951. The Rolleiflex Automat was redesigned a bit in 1949 and got a new viewing hood, X-synch for flash and a new lock for the shutter release. Are you sure you read the serial number correctly?
Thank you for your comment. My serial number is 1.080.XXX Which puts it between October 1945 - September 1949
Serials: 1.050.000 - 1.099.999 according to Rolleiclub index.
@@krisb8781 This is fascinating. According to the model descriptions and photos on Rolleiclub, your Automat is the later model K4/50 but your camera has an earlier serial number. I would absolutely identify your camera as a model K4/50 but with a mystery serial number. Possibly its a Prototype??
I have an Automat K4B2 with a later serial number of 1.085.4xx. This is later serial number than yours. But my camera is definitely the older model. Unlike yours, my camera has the serial number on the front of the camera and the letters DRP --- DRGM. Mine also has the older style pop-up viewing hood arrangement. But mine is clearly a Post-War model K4B2 with the Zeiss-Opton lens and the FRANKE & HEIDECKE name moved from the middle to the bottom of the camera face.
I have a K4B2 with a serial just below 1062000, the view-finder is a simpler one, there is no flash sync, the actual shutter release is not threaded for a cable release and instead the cable release is where the later models have the flash sync. I think the answer is that yours has been updated to 1955 spec as regards flash sync and the view-finder; the Rollei club pages note that the following parts of the K4B2 can be modernized to 1955 standard: waist level finder, larger focusing knob, double exposure safety lock, viewing lens bayonet, X-sync contact. The Rollei club pages also say that the K4B2 has an unpainted film pressure plate, like yours (and mine) whereas the K4/50 and later models have a black coloured one.
Lili Marlen????
Sure is.
love this shutter sound!! similar like mamiya c3..