I am considering purchasing a Rolleiflex, but my head is spinning with all the choices. I have been photographing with a Rolleicord 1A, which I do enjoy. Doubtful I’d need a f/2.8 other than for bragging rights. But even for the 3.5 there are numerous options. I am somewhat experienced, as I shoot with a Hasselblad and numerous Nikon’s. But the Rolleiflex world is a complex one, indeed. Your videos are helpful.
The 'sports finder' (tunnel) is for eye level shooting, framing fast moving subjects (since it can be hard when everything is reversed in the ground glass), or for when it is too dim to properly compose on the ground glass. When using the sports finder you can look through the viewfinder just underneath of it and see the ground glass image (upside down), which can be used for focusing (and then framing/shooting with the sports finder). Here is a buying tip: If the leather is peeling or starting to peel, it usually means the camera was stored in a humid environment. Which usually means the slow speeds are off, AND it will most likely have haze or fungus in the lenses. So be extra careful buying a camera where the leather has started to peel.
Press photographers used the little window with the round glass in the hood to focus with and then shoot at eyelevel looking through the open one. I used to be a press photographer and this was a useful feature to enable you to shoot at eyelevel. I have the same hood system on my Kiev 6c 6x6 slr.
Hi, If your negatives are not spaced evenly on you roll here is a suggestion: Check the little wheel on the take up side of the camera. It puts pressure on your exposed roll thereby measuring how much film has just been wound. So at the beginning your roll is smaller and the “measuring wheel” will let the winder wind more while at the end of the film it will wind less but the same distance of film. This works like the counter they use to measure (expensive) cloth in fabric stores. Next on the agenda....Pay much more attention to the top “open viewfinder”. One person comments on it the same way I would. Check out the way it is so precisely constructed....a light touch on the top and it moves down etc.....do not handle it as an unnecessary feature at all. Learn how to use it, don’t forget parallax compensation ( your viewing from several inches higher ) Sometimes I would check or at least verify things by lowering my body by these few inches and if you took your shot you were getting what you just saw 2 seconds before through your finder. Great fun using this camera, it was designed with more the just mechanical skill but with knowledge of what photographers need and do in their specific work.
Ended up buying a 3.5 Xenar from KEH for a song. Absolutely love it, and for the money I saved, was able to kit it out with accessories. And also got their 6 month warranty. The Rolleiflex is truly a spectacular camera. The only think I don’t like about it is people coming up to talk about it everywhere I go. As I’m getting into street, definitely not the best choice for all the attention it attracts.
@@kennethwajda That did happen to me with my first street portrait. I think it’s the best photo I’ve taken in a long time. The conversation made it all possible.
I last used my metered Rolleiflex 3.5 in 2008,its now November 2017.The problem I had was finding a shop that could develop and print 120 film.Evetually a Photo chain store said they could print the negatives using an adapter.The negatives were sharp but the prints looked like they were taken on a kids plastic Brownie Box camera.
@@kennethwajda I actually didn’t even get a chance to shoot with it because the shutter was stuck. On top of that I think the lens was tampered with because I saw two set of aperture blades, the original 10 blades and another 5 blades on top of it that rotated with the winding mechanism. Would’ve loved to have one but I’m better off enjoying the likes of the Yashica 124 Mat G.
Regarding film transport problem,are you loading it correctly by putting the lip of.the film under the.roller at bottom?It really is.a.stellar camera.That viewing hole is very iseful in that it gives you aproximately the same view as through waistfinder (apart from paralax change,but not a practical difference) and you can use the small lens underneath to check focus.
The X setting is for an electronic flash. The M setting for the old flash bulbs people used to use, which I've read needed to fire a split second earlier to get up to full brightness. My self-timer doesn't work, so I can't comment on it from use, but the 2.8C has one. From the manual it says: Cock the shutter, then push the lever down at upper right of the lens, to set. And it's okay to leave the camera in that position if you choose to wait to shoot.
This is a camera that i have purchased years ago the reason is that this model "C" is the only model that the aparture has 9 blades and bokeh is really good.I have a rolleiflex history book that it lists every rollie ever produced from the beginning and all the spects but it does not mention about this i was wondering if any body else know about this future..
As far as I know, 2.8C has the 10 aperture blades. And later models all came with 5 blades. Statistically 10 blades should render smoother bokeh. However I havent personally seen any test shots taken to experiment on this claim.
Hi. I'm considering buying tlr camera and would appreciate your opinion of something. I have looked two tlrs at local used camera shop. Yashicaflex S and Rolleicord 2 and they are about same price that I can afford to put on a camera. According to dealer both cameras are checked and fully working order. Yashicaflex is slightly cosmetically better condition and less used. Rolleicord is probably made in late 30s or 40s and has less mint look on it's exterior. But according the dealer Rolleicord has been fully serviced recently. I have bought film cameras from same dealer and I fully trust what they say about their cameras. I'm looking for good user tlr that I can trust. So my question is which one should weight more when choosing camera: little bit less used and nicer exterior or that the camera is recently been fully serviced? Would appreciate expert opinion.
I'd stand outside and test shoot a roll in each, or even just dry fire, and see which one inspires me more. Usually I lean toward a bright finder. And comfortable controls. Try both and see which one calls you.
I am considering purchasing a Rolleiflex, but my head is spinning with all the choices. I have been photographing with a Rolleicord 1A, which I do enjoy. Doubtful I’d need a f/2.8 other than for bragging rights. But even for the 3.5 there are numerous options. I am somewhat experienced, as I shoot with a Hasselblad and numerous Nikon’s. But the Rolleiflex world is a complex one, indeed. Your videos are helpful.
Just get a 3.5F, it's the best.
@@kennethwajda thank you!
The 'sports finder' (tunnel) is for eye level shooting, framing fast moving subjects (since it can be hard when everything is reversed in the ground glass), or for when it is too dim to properly compose on the ground glass. When using the sports finder you can look through the viewfinder just underneath of it and see the ground glass image (upside down), which can be used for focusing (and then framing/shooting with the sports finder).
Here is a buying tip:
If the leather is peeling or starting to peel, it usually means the camera was stored in a humid environment. Which usually means the slow speeds are off, AND it will most likely have haze or fungus in the lenses. So be extra careful buying a camera where the leather has started to peel.
Press photographers used the little window with the round glass in the hood to focus with and then shoot at eyelevel looking through the open one. I used to be a press photographer and this was a useful feature to enable you to shoot at eyelevel. I have the same hood system on my Kiev 6c 6x6 slr.
Right, I don't use that much, but it's an option!
Hi, If your negatives are not spaced evenly on you roll here is a suggestion: Check the little wheel on the take up side of the camera. It puts pressure on your exposed roll thereby measuring how much film has just been wound. So at the beginning your roll is smaller and the “measuring wheel” will let the winder wind more while at the end of the film it will wind less but the same distance of film. This works like the counter they use to measure (expensive) cloth in fabric stores. Next on the agenda....Pay much more attention to the top “open viewfinder”. One person comments on it the same way I would. Check out the way it is so precisely constructed....a light touch on the top and it moves down etc.....do not handle it as an unnecessary feature at all.
Learn how to use it, don’t forget parallax compensation ( your viewing from several inches higher ) Sometimes I would check or at least verify things by lowering my body by these few inches and if you took your shot you were getting what you just saw 2 seconds before through your finder. Great fun using this camera, it was designed with more the just mechanical skill but with knowledge of what photographers need and do in their specific work.
Thanks. It's been working better lately.
Ended up buying a 3.5 Xenar from KEH for a song. Absolutely love it, and for the money I saved, was able to kit it out with accessories. And also got their 6 month warranty. The Rolleiflex is truly a spectacular camera. The only think I don’t like about it is people coming up to talk about it everywhere I go. As I’m getting into street, definitely not the best choice for all the attention it attracts.
I enjoy the people coming up to me, they become my subjects.
@@kennethwajda That did happen to me with my first street portrait. I think it’s the best photo I’ve taken in a long time. The conversation made it all possible.
@@ArthurJS123 Nice!!
I last used my metered Rolleiflex 3.5 in 2008,its now November 2017.The problem I had was
finding a shop that could develop and print 120 film.Evetually a Photo chain store said they
could print the negatives using an adapter.The negatives were sharp but the prints looked
like they were taken on a kids plastic Brownie Box camera.
Purchased a Rolleiflex 2.8C Planar a couple weeks ago and it’ll be arriving today. Thank you for mentioning things to look out for!
Nice. Report back how you like it. Good luck with it!
@@kennethwajda I actually didn’t even get a chance to shoot with it because the shutter was stuck. On top of that I think the lens was tampered with because I saw two set of aperture blades, the original 10 blades and another 5 blades on top of it that rotated with the winding mechanism. Would’ve loved to have one but I’m better off enjoying the likes of the Yashica 124 Mat G.
This is a 120 camera only. The adjustable pressure plate is for the 35mm adapter kit.
Regarding film transport problem,are you loading it correctly by putting the lip of.the film under the.roller at bottom?It really is.a.stellar camera.That viewing hole is very iseful in that it gives you aproximately the same view as through waistfinder (apart from paralax change,but not a practical difference) and you can use the small lens underneath to check focus.
I did load it correctly. I'm trying a new roll now. Thanks for the other info!
The X setting is for an electronic flash. The M setting for the old flash bulbs people used to use, which I've read needed to fire a split second earlier to get up to full brightness.
My self-timer doesn't work, so I can't comment on it from use, but the 2.8C has one. From the manual it says:
Cock the shutter, then push the lever down at upper right of the lens, to set. And it's okay to leave the camera in that position if you choose to wait to shoot.
Hi. Please, could you explain what is M and X letters on the front of the camera and how it works the sutter timer? Thanks a lot.
M and X are flash sync settings, I believe. I don't use them. And my self timer doesn't work, so not sure.
Flash sync settings. M for flashbulbs and X for electronic flash. More here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_synchronization
How do you know is an A, B, C....model? differences?
I look up Rolleiflex serial numbers and it defines it.
This is a camera that i have purchased years ago the reason is that this model "C" is the only model that the aparture has 9 blades and bokeh is really good.I have a rolleiflex history book that it lists every rollie ever produced from the beginning and all the spects but it does not mention about this i was wondering if any body else know about this future..
When you shoot wide open, for bokeh, the 9 blades are totally out of the way. It's a great camera and lens for sure!
As far as I know, 2.8C has the 10 aperture blades. And later models all came with 5 blades.
Statistically 10 blades should render smoother bokeh. However I havent personally seen any test shots taken to experiment on this claim.
@@Kinzlr Mine has 10. :-)
It looks very similar to my 2.8 Rolleiflex. I've seen other videos with model 2.8c and they are different from this one featured here.
Hmmm, well, that's what I come up with. Open to other possibilities.
this is a 2.8c no doubt. Only model with the wheels on the front that sunk into the lens bayonet + plastic shutter lock
The "little window" is a sports finder, for shooting fast moving objects. Can't live without it.
Hi. I'm considering buying tlr camera and would appreciate your opinion of something. I have looked two tlrs at local used camera shop. Yashicaflex S and Rolleicord 2 and they are about same price that I can afford to put on a camera. According to dealer both cameras are checked and fully working order. Yashicaflex is slightly cosmetically better condition and less used. Rolleicord is probably made in late 30s or 40s and has less mint look on it's exterior. But according the dealer Rolleicord has been fully serviced recently. I have bought film cameras from same dealer and I fully trust what they say about their cameras. I'm looking for good user tlr that I can trust. So my question is which one should weight more when choosing camera: little bit less used and nicer exterior or that the camera is recently been fully serviced? Would appreciate expert opinion.
I'd stand outside and test shoot a roll in each, or even just dry fire,
and see which one inspires me more. Usually I lean toward a bright
finder. And comfortable controls. Try both and see which one calls
you.
I really want a Rolleiflex one day, but I am happy with my 1966 Yashica Mat for the time being.
Keep an eye out. If you're not in a hurry, you can wait for a bargain.
Tell people you're looking for one. They may know someone.
Thanks, Ben.
Certo Six is God
Good looking folder!