Excellent video! I replaced the front struts on our 2012 Mini Cooper convertible this weekend. With zero experience, it took me almost four hours for the first one, and then about 40 minutes for the other. 😂
+Olivier L Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What's the performace difference between the stock strut assembly compared to the 1A auto replacement? Does it support a lifted option? 2" or less for dirt/gravel?
Hi.....i dont need to do my strut yet, just hooked on these wonderfully explained videos.....im from the UK do you supply UK Mini parts? Cheers Andrew 😁
Hey, any of you knows this one? When I got my Mini, it's really low, like to the ground. Is there a way to raise it back up, like 2-4 inches? Is that something in the Struts - Shocks itself or did someone change it to Struts - Shocks? I see the Front Shocks is OEM, but the back has been changed right before I bought it. Thank you !!!
@@1AAuto No problem I found a set on ebay. I removed both front struts on my R56 this afternoon. Hardest job was getting the rusty pinch bolts out. Ordered replacement parts and a full rebuild will cost me the parts only.
I've got the nut off the lower bolt however mine certainly does not slide out as easily as shown in the video. Soaked with Liquid Wrench, been able to rotate it with difficulty but not push out (or tap out). Would supporting the rotor assembly perhaps take of some load to ease slide out?
Just to let people (do it yourself owners like me) - know they really don't need any special tools like the Pass Through Socket Set (great for full-time mechanics) to remove the Sway Bar Linkage, or the Spreader Tool for the knuckle clamps to loosen the bottom of the struts from the hubs. 1). The backside of the Sway Bar link bolts have machined flats that can take a 17mm open end wrench, to hold the linkage bolts to keep them from spinning while the nuts are loosened. So no need for an open-end socket to insert a hex wrench in there to hold it. 2). And the bottom strut clamp on the Hub Carrier can be opened up with a medium side flat heat screwdriver hammered into the clamp. And spraying some penatrating oil in the strut / hub carrier clamp will help it slide out more easily. I've been running H&R lowered Sport Springs on first my Gen 1 Mini, and then on my current Gen 2 to make it look and handle so much better. But I made a big mistake in retrospect, in ordering the original Mini HD Sport Suspension with my Gen 2 Mini back in 2012. I assume this is what came on the John Cooper Works option? Either way, it kept the stock ride height and increased the spring rate and added much stiffer shock damping and it handled horrible on the street - way too stiff and bone jaring, and the car sat way too tall in ride hight for good cornering. So I immediately installedwhen it was new, the H&R lowered sport springs and it handled and cornered much better, but the OEM Mini HD shocks / struts still rode terrible and are too harsh on public roads. I hated it! Then I drove a buddy's Gen 2 Mini that was set up for Autocross with H&R Springs and Bilstein Sport shocks and it handeled and rode so much better. So I went and ordered for my car new Bilstein Stage 3, B12 Pro Kit "Nurburgring" Shocks and Struts. These are shorter units with less travel to compliment the shorter H&R springs, with much larger diameter strut shafts for the demands of racing. The damping is firm as you would expect for a racing shock, but these Bilsteins still ride much smoother and are more complient, and with much better car control than the OEM Mini HD and Standard Struts & Shocks. I highly recommed switching to Bilsteins Stage 1 Street, Stage 2 Sport, and Stage 3 Sport & Track for any Mini shock and strut replacement. And the Bilsteins are not that expensive. You can get a set of 4 under $1000. And get the H&R lowered Sport Srings as well for better handling and looks. Enjoy the improved ride!
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Excellent video! I replaced the front struts on our 2012 Mini Cooper convertible this weekend. With zero experience, it took me almost four hours for the first one, and then about 40 minutes for the other. 😂
You made it looks so simple, great video.
+JC Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You have the best video on RUclips thanks!
Dope video! Really, it's unusual to have such a good video, clear and precise without forgetting a single detail.
+Olivier L Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Brilliant 👏🏼👍🏼👊🏼✊🏼
Good demo and info thank you A1 Autos and the mechanic from England 🏴
What's the performace difference between the stock strut assembly compared to the 1A auto replacement? Does it support a lifted option? 2" or less for dirt/gravel?
Wondering the same thing before I buy?
Hi.....i dont need to do my strut yet, just hooked on these wonderfully explained videos.....im from the UK do you supply UK Mini parts? Cheers Andrew 😁
Great quality instructional video
Great video so clear. Can this be done in the driveway with two floor jacks and two jackstands?
Yes! My son changed both the struts on my mini cooper last weekend
Hey, any of you knows this one? When I got my Mini, it's really low, like to the ground. Is there a way to raise it back up, like 2-4 inches? Is that something in the Struts - Shocks itself or did someone change it to Struts - Shocks? I see the Front Shocks is OEM, but the back has been changed right before I bought it. Thank you !!!
Great video. I love those wheel fitting studs. Can these be shipped to the UK for reasonable cost?
+Andy Murdoch We currently do not ship outside of the United States and Canada. +1A Auto
@@1AAuto
No problem I found a set on ebay.
I removed both front struts on my R56 this afternoon. Hardest job was getting the rusty pinch bolts out. Ordered replacement parts and a full rebuild will cost me the parts only.
@@andymurdoch1346 hi mate, can you tell me where did you find the struts for R56? I have the same issue. Thanks
exelent video..thank you.
I've got the nut off the lower bolt however mine certainly does not slide out as easily as shown in the video. Soaked with Liquid Wrench, been able to rotate it with difficulty but not push out (or tap out). Would supporting the rotor assembly perhaps take of some load to ease slide out?
+Michael Sheila Wilson You could definitely try that! Thanks for watching.
My toxic trait is thinking I can pull this off with no mechanic experience
Great job and thanks for sharing
+SpiritKing 1009 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This video and parts recommended says for mini cooper 07-14, does this apply for a mini cooper s countryman all4 as well?
Just to let people (do it yourself owners like me) - know they really don't need any special tools like the Pass Through Socket Set (great for full-time mechanics) to remove the Sway Bar Linkage, or the Spreader Tool for the knuckle clamps to loosen the bottom of the struts from the hubs. 1). The backside of the Sway Bar link bolts have machined flats that can take a 17mm open end wrench, to hold the linkage bolts to keep them from spinning while the nuts are loosened. So no need for an open-end socket to insert a hex wrench in there to hold it. 2). And the bottom strut clamp on the Hub Carrier can be opened up with a medium side flat heat screwdriver hammered into the clamp. And spraying some penatrating oil in the strut / hub carrier clamp will help it slide out more easily.
I've been running H&R lowered Sport Springs on first my Gen 1 Mini, and then on my current Gen 2 to make it look and handle so much better. But I made a big mistake in retrospect, in ordering the original Mini HD Sport Suspension with my Gen 2 Mini back in 2012. I assume this is what came on the John Cooper Works option? Either way, it kept the stock ride height and increased the spring rate and added much stiffer shock damping and it handled horrible on the street - way too stiff and bone jaring, and the car sat way too tall in ride hight for good cornering.
So I immediately installedwhen it was new, the H&R lowered sport springs and it handled and cornered much better, but the OEM Mini HD shocks / struts still rode terrible and are too harsh on public roads. I hated it! Then I drove a buddy's Gen 2 Mini that was set up for Autocross with H&R Springs and Bilstein Sport shocks and it handeled and rode so much better. So I went and ordered for my car new Bilstein Stage 3, B12 Pro Kit "Nurburgring" Shocks and Struts. These are shorter units with less travel to compliment the shorter H&R springs, with much larger diameter strut shafts for the demands of racing. The damping is firm as you would expect for a racing shock, but these Bilsteins still ride much smoother and are more complient, and with much better car control than the OEM Mini HD and Standard Struts & Shocks. I highly recommed switching to Bilsteins Stage 1 Street, Stage 2 Sport, and Stage 3 Sport & Track for any Mini shock and strut replacement. And the Bilsteins are not that expensive. You can get a set of 4 under $1000. And get the H&R lowered Sport Srings as well for better handling and looks. Enjoy the improved ride!
would this apply to a 2004 Mini cooper base?
Best video
Lug nuts!!
Hello it's all well and good but the disassembly part of the spring where is it ??
+luc ho-nji Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Hi Andy, is it similar to do rear of the Mini? Andrew UK 😁
+andrew stamps The process will be a bit different for the rear of the vehicle.
Is this the same procedure for an 03 mini base
+Bonita Courtney It may be similar, but at this time we do not have a video for your vehicle. Thanks for checking us out!
Not a video for a base 2014 mini cooper
We’re is the front axel
I think this is a dangerous repair if your not an expert
Lug, Nuts.
Whatever you want to call it, they're called, Lug Nuts. Period. Basic.
Do I have to have the car raised?
Brilliant video
Wheel bolt for me