Yes, tap oil is different (and better) than 3 in 1 oil. Don't slide the tee handle over and use the long half to gain more leverage, you will not be plumb with the hole and you will be applying the torque unevenly, that is why you snap taps. When tapping thick aluminum, your pilot hole may need to be enlarged over a standard size hole. Use a countersink on the hole before tapping to make starting easier. When possible, use a drill press to start your taps straight and plumb. Aluminum is more plastic than steel, it will often gum up the tap (especially with the wrong lubricant). Using the correct tap type for thick aluminum is important as well. There are many types of taps, with multiple numbers of flutes, different twists, etc. so research the best tap for the material and thickness you plan to use and use a tapping fluid meant for that material.
Starting tap, plug tap, flat bottom tap. Aluminum is much more picky with taps, and use tapping fluid. 1/8 turn forward, 1/4 turn back to break chips. Clean often and it should work.
I was halfway through the video and about to comment that you need the Lilse Tap Sockets and use Two flute taps. Two and three flute taps are stronger than 4 flute taps. The flutes matter for the type of material, aluminum isn't an issue but when you start tapping forged pieces it really starts to matter.
You need to start with a taper tap, use tapping fluid, turn forward a little and halfway back every rotation. It's not like running a bolt into a threaded hole. Freehanding it is a worse case scenario. Lacking a tapping fixture, if you put the tap in a drill press and clamp down your plate, you can keep the tap perpendicular. A tap guide block would be better than freehanding it. It's worth paying someone with the right equipment if you doubt you will be doing it often.
The reason you break your taps is because you're not supposed to force them. You must use lots of lubricant, and BACK UP a turn or more EVERY time you hit resistance. Then go forward again with more lubricant, then back up, on and on. And clean the chips out once in a while.
Also there are cutting taps and there are truing taps. Like the name implies, cutting taps are for cutting new threads and your drilled hole must match whatever tap. The starting taper is also different. Truing taps are set to the bolt size and are only meant to cut minimum metal and straighten or remove bad threads. But you are both correct half turn forward quarter turn back regardless of what tap you use.
Yes, of course we all learned at some point so I can't judge, but boy oh boy does it hurt watching him just keep trying to spin it in instead of a tiny bit forward, a lot back, over and over. I've tapped a lot of holes, and I've never had an issue with breaking a tap but I also have never attempted to just push through the resistance. I've probably gone forward and back 100+ times by the time I've finished a hole of this depth.
For starters with the taps you need a thread starting tap not a thread chasing or finishing tap second you don't keep turning all the way until you are threw you work it back and forth go in a complete turn and back it it out atleast half a a turn the second binds you back it out and start again and cleanout metal shavings as you go so they don't clog up the bit and plenty of taping fluid. So take it slow keep it clean and work it back and forth with a bit lube applied as you work through plus this technique work well in other ways 😂
One thing I did not notice - with the 3/4" inch thick adapter plate in place the tranny is set back from the flywheel by 3/4" - this means the tranny input shaft now has 3/4" less engagement with the pilot bushing - not a good situation. How have you dealt with this?
Hello, I have a 1987 Mazda Rx7 gxl ; I would like to convert it in to a V8 . Can I make that conversion with an adapter plate without changing the rear end?
Nice, now you can make a mold and cast adapters from beer cans and other junk. I ran into the same issues while developing an adapter for the 4l60e to 5.7l hemi. Been casting bell housings to sell online. Smaller plates like that would be far easier to cast than a bell housing.
Use a taper tap first your using a plug tap and i don't mean a spark plug tap either, taps come in sets taper middle and plug ,plug taps get to the bottom of a blind hole turps or paraffin is a good lube for aluminium
The one gearbox I see most used on MGs is the Ford Type 9 from a Capri or Merkur. Kind of hard to get anymore, that is why I am working on a similar project to this one using a 240SX gearbox. Space in the tunnel is at a premium on these little cars.
Something you never mentioned is what to do if the transmission's input shaft is not long enough to be received by the crankshaft's pilot bearing. mating a transmission to an engine is not all about making a nice adapter plate, chances are after having done all this is that clutch bearing ends is not able to reach the pressure plate due to the thickness of the plate.
Whilst the correct tapping lube will make a small difference, a HIGHER QUALITY tap will cut through even carbon steel like butter. Also, NEVER torque a tap from one side like that. That’s what breaks them, especially if they’re low quality. If you simply must, counteract the resulting force by supporting it with your other hand so that it twists around its own axis.
Not really because I switched to a hydraulic bearing. If you use a standard pilot bearing you'll have to makeup the extra 3/4" gap created by the adapter plate
I didn't have to change the flywheel or space anything because of the concentric slave cylinder. If someone didn't want to use the CSC than a 3/4" flywheel spacer or other system can be used also but I think this is the best functioning method 👍
Yes, tap oil is different (and better) than 3 in 1 oil. Don't slide the tee handle over and use the long half to gain more leverage, you will not be plumb with the hole and you will be applying the torque unevenly, that is why you snap taps. When tapping thick aluminum, your pilot hole may need to be enlarged over a standard size hole. Use a countersink on the hole before tapping to make starting easier. When possible, use a drill press to start your taps straight and plumb. Aluminum is more plastic than steel, it will often gum up the tap (especially with the wrong lubricant). Using the correct tap type for thick aluminum is important as well. There are many types of taps, with multiple numbers of flutes, different twists, etc. so research the best tap for the material and thickness you plan to use and use a tapping fluid meant for that material.
I love the genuine excitement and smirk when you find out it all fits perfectly and centered.
Stupid RUclips here I was thinking you quit uploading but no RUclips just wasn't showing me when you upload. Well good to see you again
Bummer, I've been hearing that a lot lately 😬🤔
@@DirtGearTv I'll be going back and watching a few today.
Thank you for the channel support!
Starting tap, plug tap, flat bottom tap. Aluminum is much more picky with taps, and use tapping fluid. 1/8 turn forward, 1/4 turn back to break chips. Clean often and it should work.
I was halfway through the video and about to comment that you need the Lilse Tap Sockets and use Two flute taps. Two and three flute taps are stronger than 4 flute taps. The flutes matter for the type of material, aluminum isn't an issue but when you start tapping forged pieces it really starts to matter.
You need to start with a taper tap, use tapping fluid, turn forward a little and halfway back every rotation. It's not like running a bolt into a threaded hole. Freehanding it is a worse case scenario. Lacking a tapping fixture, if you put the tap in a drill press and clamp down your plate, you can keep the tap perpendicular. A tap guide block would be better than freehanding it. It's worth paying someone with the right equipment if you doubt you will be doing it often.
For tapping (or drilling) aluminum cutting fluid consider using Crisco shortening or kerosene or a mixture of Crisco and kerosene
26:30 Did you pull the spark plugs? The engine will spin over more easily with no plugs to contain the compression.
The reason you break your taps is because you're not supposed to force them. You must use lots of lubricant, and BACK UP a turn or more EVERY time you hit resistance. Then go forward again with more lubricant, then back up, on and on. And clean the chips out once in a while.
Exactly, I cringed watching his method.
Also there are cutting taps and there are truing taps. Like the name implies, cutting taps are for cutting new threads and your drilled hole must match whatever tap. The starting taper is also different. Truing taps are set to the bolt size and are only meant to cut minimum metal and straighten or remove bad threads.
But you are both correct half turn forward quarter turn back regardless of what tap you use.
Yes, of course we all learned at some point so I can't judge, but boy oh boy does it hurt watching him just keep trying to spin it in instead of a tiny bit forward, a lot back, over and over. I've tapped a lot of holes, and I've never had an issue with breaking a tap but I also have never attempted to just push through the resistance. I've probably gone forward and back 100+ times by the time I've finished a hole of this depth.
That plate turned out pretty good. Nice job
You got the wrong tap, try using a full taper tap, with beeswax as a lube. The one you showed was a semibottoming tap. Not for starting a thread.
For starters with the taps you need a thread starting tap not a thread chasing or finishing tap second you don't keep turning all the way until you are threw you work it back and forth go in a complete turn and back it it out atleast half a a turn the second binds you back it out and start again and cleanout metal shavings as you go so they don't clog up the bit and plenty of taping fluid. So take it slow keep it clean and work it back and forth with a bit lube applied as you work through plus this technique work well in other ways 😂
Taps are also steped step 1 2 and 3
Have you ever been taught to back turn taps to break the Chips.
You may just not have shown it.
You should supplement with a video on how to match power band to gear radios
Try to run taps through a something with known good threads of same size and pitch. If they don’t go in good the taps are junk.
One thing I did not notice - with the 3/4" inch thick adapter plate in place the tranny is set back from the flywheel by 3/4" - this means the tranny input shaft now has 3/4" less engagement with the pilot bushing - not a good situation. How have you dealt with this?
That's great observation! I do address this in the next video (I believe it's the next) by using a concentric clutch bearing
Thanks for your reply - do you have a link to that video showing the concentric clutch bearing?
Great vid, good job! Use a starter tap (first cut tap). Ex-toolmaker 👍
Hello,
I have a 1987 Mazda Rx7 gxl ; I would like to convert it in to a V8 . Can I make that conversion with an adapter plate without changing the rear end?
If I could fabricate an adapter plate for mating an AWD drivetrain to an LS engine, I could build an AWD Camaro or Trans Am. That would be insane!
are you drilling the right size hole for your tap?
Yep, it was a drill and tap kit I was using. It was simply a junk kit . The minute I used a half decent tap it was like tappin butter
Put a stud in the bolt holes that line up
I love your ideas and that you're doing all this in your garage What size hole were you drilling for the 12mm tap?
Thanks! I don't recall the exact size but it was the drill bit that came with the 12mm tap kit. Maybe 11.2/3mm or something along those lines
Nice, now you can make a mold and cast adapters from beer cans and other junk. I ran into the same issues while developing an adapter for the 4l60e to 5.7l hemi. Been casting bell housings to sell online. Smaller plates like that would be far easier to cast than a bell housing.
Dang
Try reversing ever half to 3/4 turns!!!!!
I have a Chrysler voyager and I want to convert with a Toyota camry 2.2 engine, its con work?
If it is even possible how difficult would it be to adapt a 700R4 transmission to a Mazda 13b rotary engine.
What did you do to extend the clutch and the transmission inputshaft? Looks like your about an inch or two from where the original was.
Yes that's a big part of getting this conversion right! In the next video I show how I solved this after many failed trials 😂
Use a taper tap first your using a plug tap and i don't mean a spark plug tap either, taps come in sets taper middle and plug ,plug taps get to the bottom of a blind hole turps or paraffin is a good lube for aluminium
Would you be willing to make an adapter plate for others?
I am in Florida as well. Whereabouts in Florida are you?
I wish I had more time to help you guys with these requests, but right now my schedule is maxxxxxed. Maybe someday if channel keeps growing! 👊
If you’re putting one of these engines in a rear wheel drive car, like a Morris Minor, MG Midget, or Ford Pop, what transmission would you recommend?
It depends on the power level and config. If it's not a transverse application i'd prob try to adapt to something like an mx5 transmission
The one gearbox I see most used on MGs is the Ford Type 9 from a Capri or Merkur. Kind of hard to get anymore, that is why I am working on a similar project to this one using a 240SX gearbox. Space in the tunnel is at a premium on these little cars.
@@ronwalsh The Type 9 was the go-to transmission back in the day, but you’re right about them running out.
Man I need this for a 1kz I got to my Chevy 1500 trans.
Your using bottoming tabs to start the tread derrr
Where did you get the plate from?
Something you never mentioned is what to do if the transmission's input shaft is not long enough to be received by the crankshaft's pilot bearing. mating a transmission to an engine is not all about making a nice adapter plate, chances are after having done all this is that clutch bearing ends is not able to reach the pressure plate due to the thickness of the plate.
Great point! See the next vid on this build...
very cool
You need 3 taps, gradually increasing in size
Whilst the correct tapping lube will make a small difference, a HIGHER QUALITY tap will cut through even carbon steel like butter.
Also, NEVER torque a tap from one side like that. That’s what breaks them, especially if they’re low quality. If you simply must, counteract the resulting force by supporting it with your other hand so that it twists around its own axis.
Did it matter you don’t have a pilot bearing in place?
Not really because I switched to a hydraulic bearing. If you use a standard pilot bearing you'll have to makeup the extra 3/4" gap created by the adapter plate
@@DirtGearTv man you are knowledgeable and thank you for videos 🙏. Keep up the great work man
Try drilling the hole larger!
I swear. When I get a spare motor it’s getting shipped to you to build for a turbo mirage project.
I'm up for the challenge 👌
👍
The hole he to use a tre trech
Primero conpra el set de tranch the hole
Your using a bottom tap instead of a starter tap.
Bees wax.
Use bees wax on the tape.
If you was real machine, you'd know you'd have to ring that before you thread it.
@DirtGearTv did you space out your flywheel at all? Did the input shaft reach the pilot bearing? Any issues if it didn't?
I didn't have to change the flywheel or space anything because of the concentric slave cylinder. If someone didn't want to use the CSC than a 3/4" flywheel spacer or other system can be used also but I think this is the best functioning method 👍
@@DirtGearTv I appreciate it. I believe that will be my case as well.
Amatør. You need to learn this.