Great video. When I rebuilt my 1982 OM616 I did the same procedure only I wasnt going to work the hand primer to keep fuel delivery steady while trying to move the pump to adjust timing. I wanted both hands free to work the pump. I bought a stainless steel commercial pesticide sprayer on closeout sale and removed the wand off the hose and hooked that directly to the lift pump fuel filter fitting. By having a larger volume of air and fuel on hand I was able to pressurize it and take my sweet time adjusting the timing to dial it right in, and if it felt like I was losing fuel pressure I just gave it 3 pumps and was good for another 5 minutes.
Thanks for making and posting this. I realize it's a couple years old, but, one of the ONLY vids on this subject I've been able to find that THOROUGHLY covers ALL of the aspects concerning "drip timing" the injection pump. Would really like to see the actual "drips" while priming. However, after watching your well made presentation, I finally feel confident enough to tackle this task on my '83 240D. Your engine looks fantastic and is amazingly clean. I'd imagine your entire car looks that way as well. Cheers and thanks!
Thanks! I'm glad it helps someone. I know I drove myself crazy learning it at first. The Car is currently in a state of rebuild. I work very slowly, and only have a couple days a month I can even get out to it. Someday it will be done. :) I have another video after this that shows this going a little further and starting the car after and then one showing how it starts and runs driving the car off ramps. Which of course I immediately pulled the engine and transmission out entirely and redid both of them lol.
hello gercoan i have questions about my om 616 engine because i disassembled the pump to replace it. so now I am at the correct mark on the timing gear I am at TDC because the 2 marks are aligned, on the other hand on the crankshaft pulley mark I am 5 degrees from the left "passenger side" of TDC. I imagine that I am at 5 degrees before TDC because when I turn my crankshaft in the direction of rotation and well after I arrive at 10?? I wanted to know if I should add 5 degrees of offset to 24 which is 29 degrees before TDC? I specify that I take into account the real mark of the timing pinion where the piston of the first cylinder is at the very top, another question if I turn the crankshaft pulley to have the drip must I take out the pump and put afterwards on the correct mark of the crankshaft pulley using the advance and the delay of the pump, ie more or less tilted towards the engine? this OM616 pump timing thing is really complicated, thank you for your feedback, if you want I can send you pictures? see you soon
Getting ready to try this on my 83 240D. One more question.....are all the fuel lines removed from the IP for this procedure and does fuel spurt out of all the delivery valves while pumping the lift pump? (sorry, that was really 2 questions) Thanks
Removing the fuel lines will allow you to move the pump back and forth easier but it a lot messier and you can do this with the 4 remaining lines still attached. you can loosen them if you like to give yourself a little more wiggle room if you need.
U had to go 26⁰btdc bcuz overtime the timing chain wears out n other components related to chain drivealso wear out or start to gain slack/play n u have to re adjust inj timing. Or sometimes the brass bushing in the engine block which supports injection pump shaft often wears out. I know these engines so im just sharing my experience.
The Pump is New. It was totally rebuilt and bench tuned. Also, the timing chain and all related hardware is also new. I took this engine down to the block and basically replaced everything but the pistons and sleeves because they were fine. In my case due to the bigger 7.5mm elements the sweet spot came in at 26btdc. Only doing a drip timing can tell you what's correct for your own setup. :)
@@gercoa9148 i have seen mechanics who r known well n r called gud mechanics. I have seen them failing to time om616 engines bcuz they can fix modern day cars but dont know anything abt how to spill time old engines like that. Im mean i was once very surpirised to hear from mechanic how to injection time om616 n he asked for my help, so i had to go to his shop to help him time mercedes 250d 5cyl. He acyually did start the car b4 i helped him but it was way retard, it struggled to start n clouds of white unburnt fuel smoke filled the shop. Older mechanics were masters of timing fuel injections, especially the engines without timing marks.
@@gercoa9148 n yes bigger bore is responsible for adding 2⁰ degrees in advance bcuz bigger bore pump means more fuel n more fuel takes little longer time from start to reach finish line. By the time injection ends the piston travelled little farther with this newer pump, so its running retard. This is the reason u had to add 2⁰ more in advance.
@@harjinderkaur2384Kaur Believe me, I don't consider myself a good mechanic. I'm 100% self-taught. I've owned about half a dozen of these over the years and fixed everything myself over that time and just learned as I went. The drip timing, while easy once you understand it, seems to trip a lot of people up so I wanted to share how it is done. This modified pump is also a little harder due to the extremely small window of movement in order to achieve a correct drip. less than a couple MM between full flow, no flow and actual 1 second drip. It was a 2-man job to do this adjustment on this pump because of this. You absolutely correct in most modern mechanics do not understand how this setup works, heck, they don't understand the vacuum system or its relation to the shifting of the transmission at all lol. Any information to can add to this is more than welcome as it helps the entire community of om617 enthusiasts. Also, if I have made any errors, please do point them out as I would never want to be sharing incorrect information. Thanks!
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Great video. When I rebuilt my 1982 OM616 I did the same procedure only I wasnt going to work the hand primer to keep fuel delivery steady while trying to move the pump to adjust timing. I wanted both hands free to work the pump. I bought a stainless steel commercial pesticide sprayer on closeout sale and removed the wand off the hose and hooked that directly to the lift pump fuel filter fitting. By having a larger volume of air and fuel on hand I was able to pressurize it and take my sweet time adjusting the timing to dial it right in, and if it felt like I was losing fuel pressure I just gave it 3 pumps and was good for another 5 minutes.
Thanks for making and posting this. I realize it's a couple years old, but, one of the ONLY vids on this subject I've been able to find that THOROUGHLY covers ALL of the aspects concerning "drip timing" the injection pump. Would really like to see the actual "drips" while priming. However, after watching your well made presentation, I finally feel confident enough to tackle this task on my '83 240D. Your engine looks fantastic and is amazingly clean. I'd imagine your entire car looks that way as well. Cheers and thanks!
Thanks! I'm glad it helps someone. I know I drove myself crazy learning it at first. The Car is currently in a state of rebuild. I work very slowly, and only have a couple days a month I can even get out to it. Someday it will be done. :) I have another video after this that shows this going a little further and starting the car after and then one showing how it starts and runs driving the car off ramps. Which of course I immediately pulled the engine and transmission out entirely and redid both of them lol.
@@gercoa9148 sounds great. looking forward to the follow up vids!
hello gercoan i have questions about my om 616 engine because i disassembled the pump to replace it. so now I am at the correct mark on the timing gear I am at TDC because the 2 marks are aligned, on the other hand on the crankshaft pulley mark I am 5 degrees from the left "passenger side" of TDC. I imagine that I am at 5 degrees before TDC because when I turn my crankshaft in the direction of rotation and well after I arrive at 10?? I wanted to know if I should add 5 degrees of offset to 24 which is 29 degrees before TDC? I specify that I take into account the real mark of the timing pinion where the piston of the first cylinder is at the very top, another question if I turn the crankshaft pulley to have the drip must I take out the pump and put afterwards on the correct mark of the crankshaft pulley using the advance and the delay of the pump, ie more or less tilted towards the engine? this OM616 pump timing thing is really complicated, thank you for your feedback, if you want I can send you pictures? see you soon
www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/294450-setting-injection-pump-timing-after-rebuild-om616.html
thank you verry much ! 👍👍
Its called fuel delivery valve.
Thanks! once you said it I was like duh... I knew that... but at the time I couldn't think of it.
@@gercoa9148 all rite fine man, its gud if u know. Its not something out of this world, obviously u know bout it.
can you show how to measure the drips?
Just count. You should get 1 drip per second if correct. I use a stopwatch.
Getting ready to try this on my 83 240D. One more question.....are all the fuel lines removed from the IP for this procedure and does fuel spurt out of all the delivery valves while pumping the lift pump? (sorry, that was really 2 questions) Thanks
Removing the fuel lines will allow you to move the pump back and forth easier but it a lot messier and you can do this with the 4 remaining lines still attached. you can loosen them if you like to give yourself a little more wiggle room if you need.
Can you get it correct at 26 with the pump I'm it's original spline or does it need to be pulled and reinstalled?
YES. keep it on the original spline.
U had to go 26⁰btdc bcuz overtime the timing chain wears out n other components related to chain drivealso wear out or start to gain slack/play n u have to re adjust inj timing. Or sometimes the brass bushing in the engine block which supports injection pump shaft often wears out. I know these engines so im just sharing my experience.
The Pump is New. It was totally rebuilt and bench tuned. Also, the timing chain and all related hardware is also new. I took this engine down to the block and basically replaced everything but the pistons and sleeves because they were fine. In my case due to the bigger 7.5mm elements the sweet spot came in at 26btdc. Only doing a drip timing can tell you what's correct for your own setup. :)
@@gercoa9148 i have seen mechanics who r known well n r called gud mechanics. I have seen them failing to time om616 engines bcuz they can fix modern day cars but dont know anything abt how to spill time old engines like that. Im mean i was once very surpirised to hear from mechanic how to injection time om616 n he asked for my help, so i had to go to his shop to help him time mercedes 250d 5cyl. He acyually did start the car b4 i helped him but it was way retard, it struggled to start n clouds of white unburnt fuel smoke filled the shop. Older mechanics were masters of timing fuel injections, especially the engines without timing marks.
@@gercoa9148 n yes bigger bore is responsible for adding 2⁰ degrees in advance bcuz bigger bore pump means more fuel n more fuel takes little longer time from start to reach finish line. By the time injection ends the piston travelled little farther with this newer pump, so its running retard. This is the reason u had to add 2⁰ more in advance.
@@harjinderkaur2384Kaur Believe me, I don't consider myself a good mechanic. I'm 100% self-taught. I've owned about half a dozen of these over the years and fixed everything myself over that time and just learned as I went. The drip timing, while easy once you understand it, seems to trip a lot of people up so I wanted to share how it is done. This modified pump is also a little harder due to the extremely small window of movement in order to achieve a correct drip. less than a couple MM between full flow, no flow and actual 1 second drip. It was a 2-man job to do this adjustment on this pump because of this. You absolutely correct in most modern mechanics do not understand how this setup works, heck, they don't understand the vacuum system or its relation to the shifting of the transmission at all lol. Any information to can add to this is more than welcome as it helps the entire community of om617 enthusiasts. Also, if I have made any errors, please do point them out as I would never want to be sharing incorrect information. Thanks!