When installing the end links, you first put them in their place in order to assess and adjust their height accordingly, then you take them out and lock them in by tightening the nut and then you install them? Is there a torque specification for how tight that nut should be tighten, the one that locks in the height of the end link?
Thank you for posting this. Now that a year has passed, would you do anything different? Any weird noises? I'm still trying to understand the advantage of the spherical end links over these.
Hey there. How do you like you U-Jack? I've been eyeing it on Amazon as an alternative to a Daytona from Harbor Freight. I love the idea of the forked lift pad so you can slide a jackstand right in. You also mentioned ramps. I finally bit the bullet and tossed the plastic ramps out and bought a set of 67" XT Race Ramps. They awesome.
I'm not the creator of this channel, but I did purchase the U-Jack for my MK7 R based on his recommendation. Overall, it is great and better than trying to shuffle jack stands around, but there are a few caveats to be aware of.... 1. My jack was lightly damaged during shipping (the retainer for one of the 'arms' popped off). Make sure that everything is correct and functional before using it to lift a vehicle. 2. It can be very tricky to get the jack stand lined up correctly under the car, as the jack saddle blocks most of your view. Do some test runs with just the jack and jack stand so that you have a good idea of where to position everything and to make sure that nothing gets caught when you lower the jack. I am always extra careful and watchful when using this jack, but am starting to get more comfortable with it. 3. It's hard to be precise when lowering the jack and trying to do so slowly. I sometimes have to quickly rotate the handle back the other way to slow the descent of my vehicle. 4. This jack takes up more storage space than a typical floor jack because of the extra width and angle of the handle. Not a big deal for most, but something to be aware of.
@@EVERYTHINGcpo No, I have put Club Sport S RSB and oem replacment end links. Now I plan to change rear dampers to Bilstein B8 Green and put Golf Mk8 rear sturt mounts (OEM) and new Mk8 rear end links because the clank is getting on my nerves :) I agree, there shouldn't be much difference in the sequence as far I understand, main thing is that there shouldn't be any tension in end links
Thanks for the video! Glad you're enjoying the Rear Sway Bar!
Excellent, descriptive video.
When installing the end links, you first put them in their place in order to assess and adjust their height accordingly, then you take them out and lock them in by tightening the nut and then you install them? Is there a torque specification for how tight that nut should be tighten, the one that locks in the height of the end link?
Thank you for posting this. Now that a year has passed, would you do anything different? Any weird noises? I'm still trying to understand the advantage of the spherical end links over these.
Note for anyone considering this swaybar.. It will not fit with a several aftermarket exhausts do to the way its designed...
It fit with the AWE Track exhaust and the APR exhaust I have on now.
What jack is that? i love the attachment for the jack stands
Just done this on a uk 80mile r 😬 so rusted under there two bolts snapped.. what’s that jack called? Love that 👍
That’s the u jack. I did a video about it as well! Comes in very handy
Hey there. How do you like you U-Jack? I've been eyeing it on Amazon as an alternative to a Daytona from Harbor Freight. I love the idea of the forked lift pad so you can slide a jackstand right in.
You also mentioned ramps. I finally bit the bullet and tossed the plastic ramps out and bought a set of 67" XT Race Ramps. They awesome.
I'm not the creator of this channel, but I did purchase the U-Jack for my MK7 R based on his recommendation. Overall, it is great and better than trying to shuffle jack stands around, but there are a few caveats to be aware of....
1. My jack was lightly damaged during shipping (the retainer for one of the 'arms' popped off). Make sure that everything is correct and functional before using it to lift a vehicle.
2. It can be very tricky to get the jack stand lined up correctly under the car, as the jack saddle blocks most of your view. Do some test runs with just the jack and jack stand so that you have a good idea of where to position everything and to make sure that nothing gets caught when you lower the jack. I am always extra careful and watchful when using this jack, but am starting to get more comfortable with it.
3. It's hard to be precise when lowering the jack and trying to do so slowly. I sometimes have to quickly rotate the handle back the other way to slow the descent of my vehicle.
4. This jack takes up more storage space than a typical floor jack because of the extra width and angle of the handle. Not a big deal for most, but something to be aware of.
@CPO What jack are you using?
This one. ruclips.net/video/q_LjzlUSfBY/видео.html
Thank you. This is what I need for my R.
@@ramonewhyte3307 it’s a game changer. I don’t use it nearly as much since I got a quickjack…. But before I did that this jack was amazing for the R
Hi, quick question. Does I need to first torque end links and than the sway bar? I am asking because i changed RSB on my golf and I have clunks.
I don’t see where the order would make a difference. Are you using these exact links or the spherical ones?
@@EVERYTHINGcpo No, I have put Club Sport S RSB and oem replacment end links.
Now I plan to change rear dampers to Bilstein B8 Green and put Golf Mk8 rear sturt mounts (OEM) and new Mk8 rear end links because the clank is getting on my nerves :)
I agree, there shouldn't be much difference in the sequence as far I understand, main thing is that there shouldn't be any tension in end links