Hey 50's Kid, I dont know where Id be if it weren't for ppl such as yourself. Your vids are a perfect combination of practical application & information. So thank you!
Hello 50's Kid, just wanted to say thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I have two E46 cars that I love and you have really helped me keep them going. Once again thanks
Great videos, helping me so much with my bmw's. mine has a blown head gasket for sure, waiting on cam locking tool I ordered to take head doff. I did test the bolts, I have 4 that feel soft on retork, back exhaust side (4) and 1 intake back one. I pulled all of them except 1, as I don't want my cam to move at all. I looked at the bolts and I don't see any fragments on any of them, i think a remember that you did this once on a car and they had debris from the stripped threads on the bolts.. I'm praying the head and block survived the overheated condition, this motor is so clean inside. 2002 325i
Head was good, it was warped .013, got it machined flat. threads pulled on 4 bolts, timserting all of them this weekend. block was flat and looked great. Your the best! BMW should pay you for your service!!
Man I've loved every video so far! Only youtube channel monetized I dont mind turning Adblock off for. You're videos have saved me so much time and money I'd glady waste 30 seconds to make you a little! I have that Torque angle wrench aswell and it makes life so much easier compared to the guage I wasted 20$ on for Lisle
jason hamman yes even if you hit skip ad after 5 seconds or whatever. There is 3rd party software out that can entirely remove ads though which will not provide monetary benifits to whoever is providing the ads.
50sKid, I really enjoy your videos. I just had to do a head job on my 95 e36. I did a lot of research on the Helicoil vsTimeSerts and one video by Ridgewood Machine showed the Helicoil to be a stronger repair than TimeSert. It's a short and interesting test video. I ended up using the Helicoil and will let you know how it works out as soon as I put the head on. Keep up the great videos, big fan.
At the dealer we use 3/8" Snap-On Techangle, or if the tech doesn't have one, they can use the Stahlwille one. We mainly use 1/4" and 3/8" gear and hence no one bothers to get the headbolt tool since a 3/8" extension will work with a 3/8" socket. We do not recommend threaded inserts as they tend to not be reliable (Aluminium with steel, not a good idea). New block, new head or like us, new engine straight from Germany. The engine bays are getting more cramped so using 1/2" stuff is asking for problems.
Interesting, it's quite common for people to use the timeserts on these engines and Toyotas and such. This is the first I've heard about a failure. Maybe the failed cases you're thinking about used Helicoils instead of Time-Serts.
50sKid No, we don't have Timeserts in Australia anyway. The only approved place you can use a thread insert is on the spark plug holes on the older engines. You cannot compare a BM engine to a Toyota engine. They are of different power classes. I'm sure you can use threaded inserts on their engines as they have lower peak pressures in the cylinders. BM engines are driven on very high efficiencies, to do that even the coolant runs almost 20% hotter than your average engine. The downside is they are fitted in very heavy bodies, causing a misconception of high fuel consumption. In a car crash, I'd rather be in a German car for sure.
I don't like the sound of "probably warped over time"? Hopefully you just happened to get the rare bad head gasket. Can't wait to see the measurements.
Hi 50skid, I love your videos, they are very detailed and educating, you’ve been doing a great job, I deeply appreciate it. I bought an 03 325i a few days ago as a project car, I found brownish milky stuff in the coolant, but there was no milky stuff in engine oil, the car runs with 2 misfires and doesn’t seem to overheat, do you think the previous owner overheated it and the head is warped? I deeply appreciate your thoughts thank you
It is not good to torque stuff using angles, especially in so critical places. They do it in factory, because bolts are new and blocks are freshly casted, so threads are guaranteed to be good, and it costs a lot less to let robot just angle pull this kind of stuff, than use specific torque. After reinstalling head, or anything for this matter, you need to use torque wrench and specified torque for that bolt, and do this in multiple steps. This goes for any engine, be it BMW or Opel. It's not tighter is nicer, as people think, this stuff has it's torque value for a reason. Using angles tightens bolts/nuts way out of spec and this means problems, like stripped thread, floating bolt or snapped bolt. This may not even happen instantly, but later when car is started and metal starts expanding, stuff may break. Don't angle pull guys, I warned you
50sKid sorry, no, this may work, but it's not good. I'm not the best at explaining stuff, but I'll try. M52tu engine. New bolts, ok threads. Cylinder head bolts were tightened to 40nm and then pulled 90° ONCE. Then with torque wrench I tested, by gradually increasing torque, and found out that MIDDLE BOLTS budged on 65nm and OUTER BOLTS budged on 83nm. Russian literature recommends 82nm, if averaged, for any aluminum block with m10. To get middle bolts to torque, BMW says to pull all the bolts 90° one more time. So I did. Result is that inner ones were 85nm and outer ones 96nm. As we see, outer bolts are monsterly overtightened and head is sitting unevenly. Why? Because bolts lose torque if bolts next to them are tightened. Now what's the point of doing all this angle joke, if torque wrench can be used all the way with much more precise results? What's the point of bending the head? Risking stripping threads? This angle crap works for some random workshop, but if we're doing this ourselves, let's do it the proper way.
correct me if i'm wrong, i think the 30 footpounts + 90 deg + 90 deg is for new bolts and it's meant to stretch them. i don't think you're supposed to do this procedure with bolts that have already been stretched.
well i think they stretch between the end of the thread and the head. in your case they probably just stretched some more but something tells me it's not a good idea to do the full torque sequence on the used bolts :)
Why would you say that? First of all, thanks for these videos. It's gonna be at great help in the future. Used bolts stretch between the end of the threads and screwhead, so they will screw easily in the block the second time, but they are still stretched, this is why you are supposed to replace them. The new headbolts are just the same, only they are not stretched, so why dont you think it can be done on new bolts? Because thats exactly what you are supposed to do on new bolts.
Can I reuse a head gasket? My situation is i torqued Down all my bolts and 1 was stripped so I have to take it off and buy new head bolts and washers. But I’m wondering if I need a new head gasket now to?
hI kID you saved me lots of times thank you so much. question can you replace the thread inserts twice go over size twice? I have replaced 5 of them once already lasted quit awhile they have pulled out again due to head gasket blown and over heat.
Autobarn Nigeria I bought a short set from sears and I can't get the sucker past the cam and the cam seats without taking all that out. Seems the sucker is too thick to trash down to the head bolts.
Hey buddy, on my way to the store last night I had smelled something funny. Figured it might of been a fart from the truck in front of me but when I got to the store I seen smoke coming from the engine bay. Checked it out today, seen low oil, so I filled her up. I turned it on to idle to see if I can pin point the smoke, it seemed to be burning right off the header directly under the oxygen sensor. Left side of cylinders 5 and 6 .Can’t find a direct point of leak. I’ve been planning on doing the valve cover gasket but maybe it could be head gasket? Safe to keep driving?
Hey bud. I'm doing head gasket replacement. And I have removed all the parts. I cant get the motor tdc. The crankshaft won't turn. It moved maybe 30 degrees and i stil need to roll another 45 to insert the flywheel locking pin. The motor isnt locked up it was running before I tore I down. Am I missin something? Suggestions?
can you explain some thing: I don't understand this torque wrench , why do you set the wrench at 40 tighten - then re tighten again 90 degrees twice. cant you just set it to the required torque till it beeps and be done . thanks
I have an e46...after removing loads of sludge...my gf discovered that my E5 camshaft bearing cap had snapped in half...my question: could I simply replace the one e5 cap? or do I have to replace the cmshft along with it? I believe they are machined together? I'm hoping you tell me I can just replace the one e5 cap. Peace
Well, no, you really can't do that because they assemble the caps onto the ledges and through machine all the holes. So unfortunately you have to replace the whole cam bearing ledge and the caps. I was gonna offer to sell you the old one I have from my rebuild but I just took a look and most of the top caps are a little rough looking.
My 330ci was blowing white smoke out of the tail pipe and I could measure the amount of coolant needed after every drive. But no water in the oil like detecting the yellow sludge and no bubbles in the coolant over flow. When I pulled the head I could find no indication of damage to the head gasket and no cracks in block or head. Could the gasket be at fault without showing a visible sign?
Crazy question. After torquing all bolts to 40NM. I set my wrench to 35 NM and went back over all the bolts to triple check that I didn't miss any bolts. The first bolts (1 and 2 in the center) were not even at 35NM and started turning. Should I make a "second" pass at 40NM? Or is this normal that the middle bolts lost torque due to all the other bolts coming up to torque? I'm not worried that I will over torque the bolts when I do the 90 angle torque passes. What do you think I should do?
50sKid I had assumed that after I tightened the first two bolts to the initial spec, the other bolts, as they were tightened, would pull the cylinder head closer. Then the first two bolts would show up as not quite torqued to spec. I had this happen when I was installing the exhaust manifold. The threads seemed okay when I first remove the head. The bolts were incredibly tight and difficult to remove. I actually tried to see if they would tighten before removing them and I could not do so. So, my real question is:. If I do more than one pass, to make sure all the head bolts are at proper jointing torque, will this cause the bolts to be over torqued after the two subsequent 90 degree turns? I can't find any information on this. It seems that you're only supposed to torque the bolts to the jointing torque once, and not check that they're all there. I did find one performance book that suggested bringing all the bolts to 80% of the initial jointing torque and then bringing them the rest of the way to the jointing torque. BTW: Thanks much for your response and for your great vids!
Kris Chan Tack the final torque will be different for every bolt after those turns. That is why the torque spec is in degrees and not a specific nm or ft lb. you can’t get out of torquing them by degrees. You have to do it properly
Hey I am just about to buy the gasket set for my 2001 X5 from “partsgeek” but with taking the head to the machine shop what thickness gasket should I get?
You're mixed up. It's not possible to evenly loosen head bolts in stages. You'll never know how loose you're making each one. You're supposed to TIGHTEN them in stages, but not loosen.
@@martolinka32 stfu marto you dont know what the fuck you talking about. This guy gave enough information to the people and he's done a very good job explaining every step - by step.
Do a leakdown test and if the blowby is all coming out of the oil filler cap, try pouring acdelco cleaner down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and leaving it to soak overnight to free up the stuck ring. Course if it's all coming out of a valve, it's rebuild time.
I've been told by every bmw mechanic that a 325i aluminum block threads are too weak to survive a second bolt torque while doing the headgasket? Anyone had this issue and If so what was the outcome
It is super rare to blow head gasket in M52/TU or M54 engine. What was the case? In my opinion, so long as you have all parts in your coolant system operating normally it should not happen.
This guy is wrong. If you replace the bolts, you leave all bolts on and as tight as they are and replace each bolt one at a time. Do not remove or loosen all at the same time.
That's not the correct procedure of removing the head bolts. They should be loosened in stages as well as being torqued in stages. That alone can ruin the cylinder head
Hey 50's Kid, I dont know where Id be if it weren't for ppl such as yourself. Your vids are a perfect combination of practical application & information. So thank you!
Hello 50's Kid, just wanted to say thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I have two E46 cars that I love and you have really helped me keep them going. Once again thanks
4:05 That satisfying pop when a bolt comes loose. Any DIYer will agree
same on exhaust manifold when stud breaks and you have to get it machined out 😍😍
I know if I keep my E46 it will inevitably need a rebuild in this manor. Thank you for documenting your experience!
Another fantabulous video!!! I have learned so much from you about my 330i. Thank you again.
Great videos, helping me so much with my bmw's. mine has a blown head gasket for sure, waiting on cam locking tool I ordered to take head doff. I did test the bolts, I have 4 that feel soft on retork, back exhaust side (4) and 1 intake back one. I pulled all of them except 1, as I don't want my cam to move at all. I looked at the bolts and I don't see any fragments on any of them, i think a remember that you did this once on a car and they had debris from the stripped threads on the bolts.. I'm praying the head and block survived the overheated condition, this motor is so clean inside. 2002 325i
Head was good, it was warped .013, got it machined flat. threads pulled on 4 bolts, timserting all of them this weekend. block was flat and looked great. Your the best! BMW should pay you for your service!!
Man I've loved every video so far!
Only youtube channel monetized I dont mind turning Adblock off for. You're videos have saved me so much time and money I'd glady waste 30 seconds to make you a little!
I have that Torque angle wrench aswell and it makes life so much easier compared to the guage I wasted 20$ on for Lisle
Do they get $$ for the ads that are shown during their video's?? I always hit skip ad... I won't do that if they get paid if we watch them...
jason hamman yes even if you hit skip ad after 5 seconds or whatever. There is 3rd party software out that can entirely remove ads though which will not provide monetary benifits to whoever is providing the ads.
50sKid, I really enjoy your videos. I just had to do a head job on my 95 e36. I did a lot of research on the Helicoil vsTimeSerts and one video by Ridgewood Machine showed the Helicoil to be a stronger repair than TimeSert. It's a short and interesting test video. I ended up using the Helicoil and will let you know how it works out as soon as I put the head on. Keep up the great videos, big fan.
Great Job Guy! I really appreciate your videos, commentary and step-by-step instructions!
Like your video. I have to do the head and gasket on mine.00 e46 bmw.. Right to the point.
Hi 50skid great video, i start follow your e46videos a week ago , very nice work : )
Thanks! Welcome!
At the dealer we use 3/8" Snap-On Techangle, or if the tech doesn't have one, they can use the Stahlwille one. We mainly use 1/4" and 3/8" gear and hence no one bothers to get the headbolt tool since a 3/8" extension will work with a 3/8" socket. We do not recommend threaded inserts as they tend to not be reliable (Aluminium with steel, not a good idea). New block, new head or like us, new engine straight from Germany. The engine bays are getting more cramped so using 1/2" stuff is asking for problems.
Interesting, it's quite common for people to use the timeserts on these engines and Toyotas and such. This is the first I've heard about a failure. Maybe the failed cases you're thinking about used Helicoils instead of Time-Serts.
50sKid No, we don't have Timeserts in Australia anyway. The only approved place you can use a thread insert is on the spark plug holes on the older engines. You cannot compare a BM engine to a Toyota engine. They are of different power classes. I'm sure you can use threaded inserts on their engines as they have lower peak pressures in the cylinders. BM engines are driven on very high efficiencies, to do that even the coolant runs almost 20% hotter than your average engine. The downside is they are fitted in very heavy bodies, causing a misconception of high fuel consumption. In a car crash, I'd rather be in a German car for sure.
I don't like the sound of "probably warped over time"? Hopefully you just happened to get the rare bad head gasket. Can't wait to see the measurements.
is their a full video some disasembling and reasembling a new head gasket?
I think I'll rebuild my M54 when the time comes. Appreciate the step-by-steps. Oh, how's the E53?
Great vid. Been following this quite eagerly! Merry Xmas from Sri Lanka!!
Thanks! Merry Xmas!
Funny how this video came out and I blew my headgasket , what a coincidence. So its brick outside 20F , no garage wish me luck guys.
how did it go? i'm about to do mine 325i
@@dzidzaichidumba5435 badly probably... doing this without garage outside is crap
Hi 50skid, I love your videos, they are very detailed and educating, you’ve been doing a great job, I deeply appreciate it.
I bought an 03 325i a few days ago as a project car, I found brownish milky stuff in the coolant, but there was no milky stuff in engine oil, the car runs with 2 misfires and doesn’t seem to overheat, do you think the previous owner overheated it and the head is warped? I deeply appreciate your thoughts thank you
It is not good to torque stuff using angles, especially in so critical places. They do it in factory, because bolts are new and blocks are freshly casted, so threads are guaranteed to be good, and it costs a lot less to let robot just angle pull this kind of stuff, than use specific torque.
After reinstalling head, or anything for this matter, you need to use torque wrench and specified torque for that bolt, and do this in multiple steps. This goes for any engine, be it BMW or Opel.
It's not tighter is nicer, as people think, this stuff has it's torque value for a reason. Using angles tightens bolts/nuts way out of spec and this means problems, like stripped thread, floating bolt or snapped bolt. This may not even happen instantly, but later when car is started and metal starts expanding, stuff may break.
Don't angle pull guys, I warned you
You're wrong. Follow the manufacturer's torque specs, people.
50sKid sorry, no, this may work, but it's not good. I'm not the best at explaining stuff, but I'll try.
M52tu engine. New bolts, ok threads. Cylinder head bolts were tightened to 40nm and then pulled 90° ONCE. Then with torque wrench I tested, by gradually increasing torque, and found out that MIDDLE BOLTS budged on 65nm and OUTER BOLTS budged on 83nm. Russian literature recommends 82nm, if averaged, for any aluminum block with m10.
To get middle bolts to torque, BMW says to pull all the bolts 90° one more time. So I did. Result is that inner ones were 85nm and outer ones 96nm.
As we see, outer bolts are monsterly overtightened and head is sitting unevenly. Why? Because bolts lose torque if bolts next to them are tightened.
Now what's the point of doing all this angle joke, if torque wrench can be used all the way with much more precise results? What's the point of bending the head? Risking stripping threads?
This angle crap works for some random workshop, but if we're doing this ourselves, let's do it the proper way.
correct me if i'm wrong, i think the 30 footpounts + 90 deg + 90 deg is for new bolts and it's meant to stretch them. i don't think you're supposed to do this procedure with bolts that have already been stretched.
If they were stretched you wouldn't be able to easily screw them back in.
well i think they stretch between the end of the thread and the head. in your case they probably just stretched some more but something tells me it's not a good idea to do the full torque sequence on the used bolts :)
I dunno if it can even be done on new bolts. It really really feels like you're going to snap them.
hm, are you saying you reused the old bolts for the new head gasket?
Why would you say that? First of all, thanks for these videos. It's gonna be at great help in the future. Used bolts stretch between the end of the threads and screwhead, so they will screw easily in the block the second time, but they are still stretched, this is why you are supposed to replace them. The new headbolts are just the same, only they are not stretched, so why dont you think it can be done on new bolts? Because thats exactly what you are supposed to do on new bolts.
My question is after you finish the first 90 degrees torque how long should I wait for the second 90 degrees or i just do it one after other.
Can I reuse a head gasket? My situation is i torqued Down all my bolts and 1 was stripped so I have to take it off and buy new head bolts and washers. But I’m wondering if I need a new head gasket now to?
hI kID you saved me lots of times thank you so much. question can you replace the thread inserts twice go over size twice? I have replaced 5 of them once already lasted quit awhile they have pulled out again due to head gasket blown and over heat.
Autobarn Nigeria I bought a short set from sears and I can't get the sucker past the cam and the cam seats without taking all that out. Seems the sucker is too thick to trash down to the head bolts.
You have to turn the cam into just the right position. There are sections ground out to make room.
50sKid only cool I will try that.
Are you going to do a review on the eastwood torque wrench ???
Hey buddy, on my way to the store last night I had smelled something funny. Figured it might of been a fart from the truck in front of me but when I got to the store I seen smoke coming from the engine bay. Checked it out today, seen low oil, so I filled her up. I turned it on to idle to see if I can pin point the smoke, it seemed to be burning right off the header directly under the oxygen sensor. Left side of cylinders 5 and 6 .Can’t find a direct point of leak. I’ve been planning on doing the valve cover gasket but maybe it could be head gasket? Safe to keep driving?
Hey bud. I'm doing head gasket replacement. And I have removed all the parts. I cant get the motor tdc. The crankshaft won't turn. It moved maybe 30 degrees and i stil need to roll another 45 to insert the flywheel locking pin. The motor isnt locked up it was running before I tore I down. Am I missin something? Suggestions?
can you explain some thing: I don't understand this torque wrench , why do you set the wrench at 40 tighten - then re tighten again 90 degrees twice. cant you just set it to the required torque till it beeps and be done . thanks
What goes through two first pipes you took off? coolant?
40 newton meters initially then 90 and 90 and it ends up 54.5 newton meters after? Or 54.5 ft-lb?
How much torque do the M52 cylinder head bolts carry overpacking
I have an e46...after removing loads of sludge...my gf discovered that my E5 camshaft bearing cap had snapped in half...my question: could I simply replace the one e5 cap? or do I have to replace the cmshft along with it? I believe they are machined together? I'm hoping you tell me I can just replace the one e5 cap. Peace
Well, no, you really can't do that because they assemble the caps onto the ledges and through machine all the holes. So unfortunately you have to replace the whole cam bearing ledge and the caps. I was gonna offer to sell you the old one I have from my rebuild but I just took a look and most of the top caps are a little rough looking.
My 330ci was blowing white smoke out of the tail pipe and I could measure the amount of coolant needed after every drive. But no water in the oil like detecting the yellow sludge and no bubbles in the coolant over flow. When I pulled the head I could find no indication of damage to the head gasket and no cracks in block or head. Could the gasket be at fault without showing a visible sign?
Do you have to remove the timing chain/vanos to get the block off? Or can i just pull it off without taking the cams off???
I was wondering how long from start to this step shown here how long did it take to remove everything else that was mounted on top of the head?
torq is perpendicular to the angle so dosen't matter how long the extation is
Crazy question. After torquing all bolts to 40NM. I set my wrench to 35 NM and went back over all the bolts to triple check that I didn't miss any bolts. The first bolts (1 and 2 in the center) were not even at 35NM and started turning. Should I make a "second" pass at 40NM? Or is this normal that the middle bolts lost torque due to all the other bolts coming up to torque? I'm not worried that I will over torque the bolts when I do the 90 angle torque passes. What do you think I should do?
+David Freeman sounds like your threads have pulled out. Did you check for that when you first removed the head?
50sKid I had assumed that after I tightened the first two bolts to the initial spec, the other bolts, as they were tightened, would pull the cylinder head closer. Then the first two bolts would show up as not quite torqued to spec. I had this happen when I was installing the exhaust manifold.
The threads seemed okay when I first remove the head. The bolts were incredibly tight and difficult to remove. I actually tried to see if they would tighten before removing them and I could not do so. So, my real question is:. If I do more than one pass, to make sure all the head bolts are at proper jointing torque, will this cause the bolts to be over torqued after the two subsequent 90 degree turns? I can't find any information on this. It seems that you're only supposed to torque the bolts to the jointing torque once, and not check that they're all there. I did find one performance book that suggested bringing all the bolts to 80% of the initial jointing torque and then bringing them the rest of the way to the jointing torque.
BTW: Thanks much for your response and for your great vids!
Hi hello.. Do you have toturial about bmw 330d e46 serie3 about changing cylinder head gasket?
What's the name of that socket you're using to break the head bolts loose? Does it some with a kit?
There's a link to it in the description of this video
You said that one is stressful to use. Any recommended ones to use?
Hi 50sKid, how would a pulled thread behave? Would you still be able to torque it to 40 ftlb?
I imagine the threads would give out once you're into one of the 90 degree torques. It will get super loose and just spin around and around forever.
50sKid ah i see!
Good job sir
just a quick question what is the final spec in ft pound after the second 90 deg turn
Kris Chan Tack the final torque will be different for every bolt after those turns. That is why the torque spec is in degrees and not a specific nm or ft lb. you can’t get out of torquing them by degrees. You have to do it properly
Is a double vanos tool required to change the head gasket?
What is the torque of the main studs? Not the head bolts but the main studs
Would this cause a p0300 I think have 2 of them
Is this the same torque reassembly specs for e46 m3?
Hey I am just about to buy the gasket set for my 2001 X5 from “partsgeek” but with taking the head to the machine shop what thickness gasket should I get?
depends how much thickness is taken off. Ask your machine shop for advice
Can somebody tell me how many foot pounds on a 2004 BMW Z4 head bolts how many foot pounds
Thank's very good video
how much is the head tightening for a bmw 330 of 2005?
This videos is funny BTW ,removing bolts in one go like you did can stress other ones and cause thread to pull LOL.
martolinka32 tell me why you think that
bolts needs to be loosen up in several stages with correct sequence ,this is normal procedure in every engine,check bentley manual.
You're mixed up. It's not possible to evenly loosen head bolts in stages. You'll never know how loose you're making each one. You're supposed to TIGHTEN them in stages, but not loosen.
50sKid stage 1 click, stage 2 5-10 deg. stage 3 90 deg. ect until they are fairly loose.
@@martolinka32 stfu marto you dont know what the fuck you talking about. This guy gave enough information to the people and he's done a very good job explaining every step - by step.
have watched your vids for some time ..Yesterday i lost all compression in cyl#3 rebuild or sell her ugh 2005 325
bent valve perhaps gotta open her up
Do a leakdown test and if the blowby is all coming out of the oil filler cap, try pouring acdelco cleaner down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and leaving it to soak overnight to free up the stuck ring. Course if it's all coming out of a valve, it's rebuild time.
I've been told by every bmw mechanic that a 325i aluminum block threads are too weak to survive a second bolt torque while doing the headgasket? Anyone had this issue and If so what was the outcome
Not true. The bolt threads are only a problem if the head has been overheated and the metal has been fatigued.
thanx
It is super rare to blow head gasket in M52/TU or M54 engine. What was the case? In my opinion, so long as you have all parts in your coolant system operating normally it should not happen.
hi whats the final torque is it like 65 lbs
There is no one final torque value. You torque them to 40 nm + 90 deg + 90 deg and the torque on each one ends up being a little different.
50sKid how do u do a 90 degrees on a torque wrench? Any ideas kid?
This guy is wrong. If you replace the bolts, you leave all bolts on and as tight as they are and replace each bolt one at a time. Do not remove or loosen all at the same time.
That's not the correct procedure of removing the head bolts. They should be loosened in stages as well as being torqued in stages. That alone can ruin the cylinder head