Adam I salt my hides right after fleshing. That way you skip a step of trying to rehydrate the hides. They get nice and white after the salting. I have done probably 20 deer hides this way. Good video. Keep up the good work.
I don’t understand what the point of rehydrating the hides is anyways. I’m new to tanning and none of the videos I’ve watched really explain the point of certain steps
@@mre2x About to tan about 9 hides for the first time, but my understanding is that soaking the hide helps it absorb the tanning solution. Perhaps it seems counterintuitive, but according to what I've read and watched the salted, dried hides don't absorb the tanning solution as well. I agree that it's hard to gain an understanding of the process from a lot of the content about it out there. This two parter has been more indepth on performing the steps than some though!
Just finished a deer hide and it turned out great. Used Deer Hunters & Trappers Hide Tanning Formula. Followed directions closely. I made sure the hide was not wet when I applied the formula so it soaked in good. I used a flat pry bar to stretch the hide. Pushed from middle of back mostly toward the edge. After it was completely dry I sanded the flesh side with a random orbital and 40 grit paper. Helped soften and left a clean suede finish. Thanks for your video.
i'm sure if i would have broke mine it would have come out much softer. But i wasn't too worried as they were going for rugs in the kids rooms. Glad you liked the video and glad your deer hide came out good!!
I apreciate you making this video, it takes a lot of guts, however you are supposed to break during the drying period. You are not supposed to let them dry first. Your skins will come out like fine buckskin if you dry a bit, break, dry and break. If spots get hard use a spray bottle of water to hydrate and break again. If part are drying too fast you can put the skin is a plastic bag rolled up and go at it again later. Tont let them completely dry while breaking.
I found out after fleshing, and salting. Add small amount of that tanning solution, then the next day. You use a plastic putty knife as a scraper. Oh it worked wonders to remove the rest of the micro skin membrane along with fats that you may have missed. Apply another small amount of that solution. Let dry out, i used a chain link fence to create airflow. I used saw dust to remove oils from fur. Then I with a squirt bottle spray a small amount of water on the flesh side. Wait ten minutes then go on and break in the hide. This will be a whole lot easier then six hours on one piece. Saw dust again. Shake out. If still a tiny bit of oils your not happy with, I use talcum powder rub it in. After a few hours use an air compressor to remove all the talcum power. Trust me you will have cleaner, softer hides. Tip if you use a dryer lower your heat that uneven warped is caused buy to hot of heating.
I am in the process of learning to tan a hide and I'm trying to break it, so is nice and white but there is a lot of crunch hardness, would soaking it help and then reapplying tanning formula or just lightly wet it wait a few minutes then try breaking again?
Hey Adam I used the produce last year I did two beaver two otter and two coyotes worked well just lots of work breaking them for sewing I have the beaver in a dryer today I removed the heater. Coyotes and otter are now mits. Thanks
Yeah they say most if the work is catching them and then breaking the skin. Great little series man thanks for taking the time and advice on your learning experience.
gotta share experiences. Maybe a viewer of the video will see something i did wrong or learn from mine and see what they did wrong. It's all about helping one another!! Thanks for watching.
Great video! A trick I use for breaking the hide after tanning is that I use a paint stripper pad on a cordless drill. It works the hide well, thins it down and makes it soft and pliable with very little effort. It works like a charm every time!
that is a good idea. i had tried a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder but it would pull and then jam up. I wasn't too working about breaking them since we just used them as a floor mat for by the kids bed.
@@AdamCraigOutdoors Yeah, the wire wheel has always scared me a little, as I've only worked with thin hides; will try different attachments like the paint stripper pad since I am a small gal with limited hand strength. Thanks for the videos!! Very helpful to see this done in sequence.
Adam I’m doing a Beaver with this stuff right now. I’m kinda concerned about breaking it. I did a Mink using this stuff and it turned out great. Soft and supple. I put a piece of rebar in a vise, turned the hide flesh side out and pulled that Mink back and forth across the rebar every so often till it was dry and it worked really well. It got very soft and looks professionally done. I don’t know if that softening process will work on a Beaver? We’ll see. A Mink hide is tuff and it worked well on it.
i think you will be fine breaking it the same way. The main reason i didn't continue to put the effort in way i was using them for rugs for my kids. I was lazy and didn't want to put the effort in. Good luck!!
Did you try to thin it a bit with the sander? I have done a few different pelts but you are right. Beaver are pretty thick to get a supple hide using home tanning. I might try one and hit it with the belt sander. Good vid. Got me in the mood to tan something.
I tried some on the one hide but figured it was going to be a ton of work. I tried a wire wheel on a die grinder as well. If i had planned to make mittens or something i would have put more time into thinning. But i knew they were going on the floor.
@@GoldCountryTrapping That's the truth. It takes some real hours of work for me to even get my squirrel pelts acceptably soft and cream colored, I can't imagine getting them blanket soft and pure white like a taxidermist does unless I want to triple my time and become a chemist.
Thanks for the two videos and the tips. I'm about to try the hide tanning formula on deer hide for a deer antler cap mount. Your videos will be very useful!
I have used this product with no issues i think the problem you had with it not being malleable is the salt and you washed it to much after you tanned it just my opinion but good video loved it
Hey Adam an old timer that taught me tons had an old clothes dryer that he would throw his hides and 4-5 tennis balls in to break em. Fyi dont use the wifes dryer, she will get pissed if she finds fur in the lint trap. Lol
I have seen guys make a tumbler out of a barrel. Put a shaft through the center with carrier bearings on each end. Put a large pulley on one end with a motor. Of course you need to make a stand to mount the carrier bearings to. Cut out a door add hinges and a hasp. Walla. Fur Tumbler.
What you failed to do was break them before they dried. That is the trick to breaking a hide during the tanning process. They need to still be damp when breaking. The Instructions even state this clearly
i did start to break the first one. The effort was not worth it for me as i was going to be turning the hides into floor mats for my kids. If i was going to use it for clothing or anything then i would have worked the hides more.
@@AdamCraigOutdoors gotcha. That hide tanning formula does work wonderfully though. I know you gave it a bad review in this video based on your experience. Just wanted to make mention it does work well so long as you follow the instructions
Adam I salt my hides right after fleshing. That way you skip a step of trying to rehydrate the hides. They get nice and white after the salting. I have done probably 20 deer hides this way.
Good video. Keep up the good work.
I don’t understand what the point of rehydrating the hides is anyways. I’m new to tanning and none of the videos I’ve watched really explain the point of certain steps
when selling furs most trappers just dry the hide. So in order to tan the hide, you need it soft and you get it soft by soaking in salted water.
A good method for breaking the hide and getting it more soft is draping your beaver pelt over a rope and working it back and forth! Works well
@@mre2x About to tan about 9 hides for the first time, but my understanding is that soaking the hide helps it absorb the tanning solution. Perhaps it seems counterintuitive, but according to what I've read and watched the salted, dried hides don't absorb the tanning solution as well. I agree that it's hard to gain an understanding of the process from a lot of the content about it out there. This two parter has been more indepth on performing the steps than some though!
@@MalcolmM434 let me know how it goes I haven’t tanned anything in a while with my sports going on right now
Just finished a deer hide and it turned out great. Used Deer Hunters & Trappers Hide Tanning Formula. Followed directions closely. I made sure the hide was not wet when I applied the formula so it soaked in good. I used a flat pry bar to stretch the hide. Pushed from middle of back mostly toward the edge. After it was completely dry I sanded the flesh side with a random orbital and 40 grit paper. Helped soften and left a clean suede finish. Thanks for your video.
i'm sure if i would have broke mine it would have come out much softer. But i wasn't too worried as they were going for rugs in the kids rooms.
Glad you liked the video and glad your deer hide came out good!!
The ROS trick worked? I haven't tanned anything yet, thinking about doing some muskrats, but I'm not sure on the breaking in part.
I apreciate you making this video, it takes a lot of guts, however you are supposed to break during the drying period. You are not supposed to let them dry first. Your skins will come out like fine buckskin if you dry a bit, break, dry and break. If spots get hard use a spray bottle of water to hydrate and break again. If part are drying too fast you can put the skin is a plastic bag rolled up and go at it again later. Tont let them completely dry while breaking.
I found out after fleshing, and salting. Add small amount of that tanning solution, then the next day. You use a plastic putty knife as a scraper. Oh it worked wonders to remove the rest of the micro skin membrane along with fats that you may have missed. Apply another small amount of that solution. Let dry out, i used a chain link fence to create airflow. I used saw dust to remove oils from fur. Then I with a squirt bottle spray a small amount of water on the flesh side. Wait ten minutes then go on and break in the hide. This will be a whole lot easier then six hours on one piece. Saw dust again. Shake out. If still a tiny bit of oils your not happy with, I use talcum powder rub it in. After a few hours use an air compressor to remove all the talcum power. Trust me you will have cleaner, softer hides.
Tip if you use a dryer lower your heat that uneven warped is caused buy to hot of heating.
I am in the process of learning to tan a hide and I'm trying to break it, so is nice and white but there is a lot of crunch hardness, would soaking it help and then reapplying tanning formula or just lightly wet it wait a few minutes then try breaking again?
Like your teaching info. Love your pelts. Love your honesty. Great video dude.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey Adam I used the produce last year I did two beaver two otter and two coyotes worked well just lots of work breaking them for sewing I have the beaver in a dryer today I removed the heater. Coyotes and otter are now mits. Thanks
oh awesome. Were you happy with the outcome??
Yeah they say most if the work is catching them and then breaking the skin. Great little series man thanks for taking the time and advice on your learning experience.
gotta share experiences. Maybe a viewer of the video will see something i did wrong or learn from mine and see what they did wrong. It's all about helping one another!!
Thanks for watching.
Great video! A trick I use for breaking the hide after tanning is that I use a paint stripper pad on a cordless drill. It works the hide well, thins it down and makes it soft and pliable with very little effort. It works like a charm every time!
that is a good idea. i had tried a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder but it would pull and then jam up. I wasn't too working about breaking them since we just used them as a floor mat for by the kids bed.
@@AdamCraigOutdoors Yeah, the wire wheel has always scared me a little, as I've only worked with thin hides; will try different attachments like the paint stripper pad since I am a small gal with limited hand strength. Thanks for the videos!! Very helpful to see this done in sequence.
Awesome idea! I’m salting my deer hide and will be tanning and breaking soon!
Getting ready to use this stuff, great video!
Great work man! Trying out all the different ways to tan sheep hide here in France. Smoking is a great way to!
Thanks for the video and telling us what did and didn't work so well- hides look great
i try to show what i did and what went wrong. I have never done it before so it was trial and error.
Thanks for watching.
Adam I’m doing a Beaver with this stuff right now. I’m kinda concerned about breaking it. I did a Mink using this stuff and it turned out great. Soft and supple. I put a piece of rebar in a vise, turned the hide flesh side out and pulled that Mink back and forth across the rebar every so often till it was dry and it worked really well. It got very soft and looks professionally done. I don’t know if that softening process will work on a Beaver? We’ll see. A Mink hide is tuff and it worked well on it.
i think you will be fine breaking it the same way. The main reason i didn't continue to put the effort in way i was using them for rugs for my kids. I was lazy and didn't want to put the effort in.
Good luck!!
Did you try to thin it a bit with the sander? I have done a few different pelts but you are right. Beaver are pretty thick to get a supple hide using home tanning.
I might try one and hit it with the belt sander.
Good vid. Got me in the mood to tan something.
I tried some on the one hide but figured it was going to be a ton of work. I tried a wire wheel on a die grinder as well. If i had planned to make mittens or something i would have put more time into thinning. But i knew they were going on the floor.
Adam Craig Outdoors yeah. It doesn’t seem like there’s a good shortcut to a supple hide.
@@GoldCountryTrapping That's the truth. It takes some real hours of work for me to even get my squirrel pelts acceptably soft and cream colored, I can't imagine getting them blanket soft and pure white like a taxidermist does unless I want to triple my time and become a chemist.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am using the product now on a bobcat and beaver.
How did the bobcat turn out i just got my first on a stretcher drying and trying to figure out how best to tan it myself
thanks for taking us along and for the tips.take care
Thanks Wallace!!
Great video! Just started the tanning process on my badger hide
Good luck!
Thanks for the two videos and the tips. I'm about to try the hide tanning formula on deer hide for a deer antler cap mount. Your videos will be very useful!
do i have to smoke my hide after using this formula or does the oils make it waterproof??
No smoking required!
The longer one would work great for a cradleboard if you softened it up .
I have used this product with no issues i think the problem you had with it not being malleable is the salt and you washed it to much after you tanned it just my opinion but good video loved it
i just didn't spend the time breaking it enough.
Adam you know you have top smoke them hides before they are water proof otherwise when wet they go back to raw pelts ex video
Awesome video and good advice Adam 👍🏾
Appreciate it Raza!
Great ! Thank you for the video.
Hey Adam an old timer that taught me tons had an old clothes dryer that he would throw his hides and 4-5 tennis balls in to break em. Fyi dont use the wifes dryer, she will get pissed if she finds fur in the lint trap. Lol
i did toss them in our dryer on the lowest heat setting for atleast 2 hours. It did help but i would need some sawdust and to run it for days!!
I have seen guys make a tumbler out of a barrel. Put a shaft through the center with carrier bearings on each end. Put a large pulley on one end with a motor.
Of course you need to make a stand to mount the carrier bearings to. Cut out a door add hinges and a hasp. Walla. Fur Tumbler.
Two excellent video's adam
Thanks man. Happy Trapping!! lol
Neats foot oil will soften that right up bud but they look nice make for happy kids feet
Supposed to use non iodized salt
Great stuff, well done and thanks for sharing your tips :-) looking good
Thanks for watching Richard!!
great video dude! helped alot!
Is it ok if some accidentally gets on the edges of the fur?
yes, it is just going to be oily and you will need to clean that up.
Good stuff Adam 👍
Thanks Ray.
Are the hides dry when you put the tanning solution on ?
no, they were soaked in a warm/salted water.
Cool Thank you for sharing!
thanks for watching!
Till she decides she is gonna support your RUclips channel hahahahahahahah
What you failed to do was break them before they dried. That is the trick to breaking a hide during the tanning process. They need to still be damp when breaking. The Instructions even state this clearly
i did start to break the first one. The effort was not worth it for me as i was going to be turning the hides into floor mats for my kids. If i was going to use it for clothing or anything then i would have worked the hides more.
@@AdamCraigOutdoors gotcha. That hide tanning formula does work wonderfully though. I know you gave it a bad review in this video based on your experience. Just wanted to make mention it does work well so long as you follow the instructions
@@Thomas_Crowfoot do i have to smoke my hide after using this formula or does the oils make it waterproof??
Great video Adam! I'm sorry we didn't get a lot of time to chat chum.✌️
You were a busy dude but it was still nice to meet you and say hi.
May be during smokey's tanning course in March?
keep me in the loop and i will try to attend!
great job !
Isn't the dark parts more flesh?
Thanks for the video
No problem!
Bon partage
Thanks
Did you eat those skunks? Or did Chris eat um both? 😝👍
left them out for the critters. They love skunk!! lol had to hide them so Chris didn't get them though.
Coin laundry, nice