Hello, In the US outboard motors are relatively cheap, but in Canada, they are almost three times the price and very hard to find. For many of us, it's worth picking up an old motor for 250$.
I just picked one up today, and I had a tough time to adjust the liw speed and high speed screws. I find they tend to be temperamental on those small motors. I got mine purring now. It's a 1984 Evinrude Junior.
I got a evinrude yachtwin 3hp 1968(Iguess these were the first engines of this models.)and a Johnson seahorse 4hp 1975 myself.But its very difficult to get parts for these engines,at least here I live.Good video.
I mean, with an engine this small there's no call for an external fuel tank. At the standard gasoline engine fuel consumption metric of one tenth of a gallon per hour per horsepower, its going to burn just under a pint per hour at wide open throttle. Carry yourself a 2 gallon gas can and you'll be fine for a couple days of operation. Just make sure you refill the onboard tank every hour or so of operation.
If you'd had experience of British Seagull outboard motors then you'd know the best way to spin a flywheel when wanting to re-energise the magnetic field is with an electric drill and a socket on the top nut... useful for spinning the flywheel to achieve other things too.
At 12:44, the bowl you are holding in your hand has a port/channel near your thumb (towards bottom of screen) that seems to lead to the very center/bottom of the carb bowl (where one of the adjustment needles pokes into). However, on my carb it's blocked HARD. Is it possible this doesn't actually connect by design? I have tried cleaner and compressed air to no avail.
i have just acquired a 1982 johnson colt outboard, no spark, have made a puller hub to remove the flywheel housing, does anyone know the thread size for the bolts that go into the flywheel head? they don't appear to be metric .
Perfect timing, I have the same one in the garage. Is there a trick to getting the lower unit off? Mine slides down about 1/2 an inch and then comes to a hard stop? I'm a newb, so I may be missing something easy?
Very good point about the replacement cost of a new motor. No sense throwing too much money into an older motor when a new and better one can be had so inexpensively.
You undid the wrong aft bolts for the cowling. If you had removed the other 2 bolts instead, the "ring-frame" and gas tank would have stayed in place and only the pull-starter and cover would have come off giving better access to the starter.
Excellent vid. Very helpful re: reworking recoil starter. Got mine out for 1st time in 3 years. After fixing starter, fired right up. Not much water with exhaust coming out of ports. I think I replaced impeller/pump assembly 6 or 7 years ago. 96 degrees here today and engine seems to be heating up. I don't have an infrared thermometer. Does it seem likely that I may need a new impeller? It's just a fun little motor for the inflatable and bass boat. Don't wanna burn it up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Fuel tank is separate from cowling and is secured by 2 metal clips that slip in under that metal "ring-frame" that is between the 2 halves (upper and lower) of the enclosure.
No, the fuel tank is separate from the cowling, it is secured by 2 metal clips that fit through slots in the 2 tabs molded onto the bottom of the tank. Those tabs fit through sots In the "ring-frame" that forms the divide between upper and lower halves of the cowling.
Mine was stuck, too. I used a 1/4” socket with Phillips head bit, got it loosened and removed. Now I need to figure out how to remove the cowling so I can replace the pull rope. Any tips for me?
Hey Brandon quick question for you I have a 200 Evinrude 1990 I was trying to do the timing on it and when I hook the timing light to the number one cylinder wire I get a very intermittent Flash and it's very erratic I hooked the light up to all of the other wires and get a very steady Flash could this be a bad ignition coil?
I liked your video, but why or how can you justify buying a new motor for over a $1G, rather than spending $200 or even $300 on fixing and running the older vintage motor?
I made the mistake of taking the screw out of the top & it unwound the recoil Then I rewound it put it all back together & it's still messed up Hate recoils
Me too. I always make the same mistake because I go about 10 years between taking off the top and as soon as I hear that "Zing!" I give myself a forehead slap. I am an expert by the time I get it all back together. Whatever you do, make sure the little tabs drop into the cuts in the center gizmo or the pulley will not snug down tight when you tighten the large center screw on the top of the cowling. Rotate the gizmo until it seats and save yourself a lot of aggravation.
from Myriam Webster Motor 2: any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion: such as a: a small compact engine b: INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE especially : a gasoline engine c: rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy They are somewhat interchangeable.
Hello, In the US outboard motors are relatively cheap, but in Canada, they are almost three times the price and very hard to find. For many of us, it's worth picking up an old motor for 250$.
full throttle for compression test,and a socket in your drill to spin the motor. 90 psi is good.
I just picked one up today, and I had a tough time to adjust the liw speed and high speed screws. I find they tend to be temperamental on those small motors. I got mine purring now. It's a 1984 Evinrude Junior.
Hey @BrandonsGarage, what size/threads are the bolts you used for pulling the flywheel?
I got a evinrude yachtwin 3hp 1968(Iguess these were the first engines of this models.)and a Johnson seahorse 4hp 1975 myself.But its very difficult to get parts for these engines,at least here I live.Good video.
I mean, with an engine this small there's no call for an external fuel tank. At the standard gasoline engine fuel consumption metric of one tenth of a gallon per hour per horsepower, its going to burn just under a pint per hour at wide open throttle. Carry yourself a 2 gallon gas can and you'll be fine for a couple days of operation. Just make sure you refill the onboard tank every hour or so of operation.
You are awesome thanks
If you'd had experience of British Seagull outboard motors then you'd know the best way to spin a flywheel when wanting to re-energise the magnetic field is with an electric drill and a socket on the top nut... useful for spinning the flywheel to achieve other things too.
why don't you use a drill motor to spin the engine for the compression test? easy, cheap, effective....
At 12:44, the bowl you are holding in your hand has a port/channel near your thumb (towards bottom of screen) that seems to lead to the very center/bottom of the carb bowl (where one of the adjustment needles pokes into). However, on my carb it's blocked HARD. Is it possible this doesn't actually connect by design? I have tried cleaner and compressed air to no avail.
Where did you learn all your mechanical skills?
i have just acquired a 1982 johnson colt outboard, no spark, have made a puller hub to remove the flywheel housing, does anyone know the thread size for the bolts that go into the flywheel head? they don't appear to be metric .
Please tell me where the cooling water exits that motor
Perfect timing, I have the same one in the garage. Is there a trick to getting the lower unit off? Mine slides down about 1/2 an inch and then comes to a hard stop? I'm a newb, so I may be missing something easy?
If you notice, mine did the same thing.
Took some wiggling, and it came out.
Do i need to take the fly wheel off to take the lower unit off?
Very good point about the replacement cost of a new motor. No sense throwing too much money into an older motor when a new and better one can be had so inexpensively.
Tae get true compression reading, ye need tae open the throttle
You undid the wrong aft bolts for the cowling. If you had removed the other 2 bolts instead, the "ring-frame" and gas tank would have stayed in place and only the pull-starter and cover would have come off giving better access to the starter.
Excellent vid. Very helpful re: reworking recoil starter. Got mine out for 1st time in 3 years. After fixing starter, fired right up. Not much water with exhaust coming out of ports. I think I replaced impeller/pump assembly 6 or 7 years ago. 96 degrees here today and engine seems to be heating up. I don't have an infrared thermometer. Does it seem likely that I may need a new impeller? It's just a fun little motor for the inflatable and bass boat. Don't wanna burn it up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Probably, It soaked my hand in no time.
Is this pretty much the same as a seahorse 2 hp
Precisely the EXACT same outboard, just made to look fancier for 1989 and 1990, the last 2 model years the 2hp/COLT was sold.
I am curious what type of oil did you use in lower end. thank you
Jennifer Huntley probably 80-90 gear oil!
I have this motor. The pull rope broke and I need to remove the cowling to replace it. Does the fuel tank have to come off in order to do this?
Fuel tank is separate from cowling and is secured by 2 metal clips that slip in under that metal "ring-frame" that is between the 2 halves (upper and lower) of the enclosure.
No, the fuel tank is separate from the cowling, it is secured by 2 metal clips that fit through slots in the 2 tabs molded onto the bottom of the tank. Those tabs fit through sots In the "ring-frame" that forms the divide between upper and lower halves of the cowling.
Have same motor. Can't get nut off the top cover to access spring. Rope pulls out but doesn't recoil.
Any ideas?
Mine was stuck, too. I used a 1/4” socket with Phillips head bit, got it loosened and removed. Now I need to figure out how to remove the cowling so I can replace the pull rope. Any tips for me?
@@RadioguyJ cowling should be held by four bolts from underneath. 10mm socket.
Good thing you had those gloves on.
I converted mine to cdi ignition, for about $20.
Where did you find the kit?
@@G00B4LIFE ebay
Hey Brandon quick question for you I have a 200 Evinrude 1990 I was trying to do the timing on it and when I hook the timing light to the number one cylinder wire I get a very intermittent Flash and it's very erratic I hooked the light up to all of the other wires and get a very steady Flash could this be a bad ignition coil?
Probably,
Swap it with a good coil and see if the problem moves.
If it doesnt, you could have a problem with the timer base or powerpack.
I liked your video, but why or how can you justify buying a new motor for over a $1G, rather than spending $200 or even $300 on fixing and running the older vintage motor?
I made the mistake of taking the screw out of the top & it unwound the recoil
Then I rewound it put it all back together & it's still messed up
Hate recoils
I did the same damm thing! Put it all back wound up - I used a 9/16" socket chucked into my 1/2" drill motor, much nicer than pulling the damm cord
Me too. I always make the same mistake because I go about 10 years between taking off the top and as soon as I hear that "Zing!" I give myself a forehead slap. I am an expert by the time I get it all back together. Whatever you do, make sure the little tabs drop into the cuts in the center gizmo or the pulley will not snug down tight when you tighten the large center screw on the top of the cowling. Rotate the gizmo until it seats and save yourself a lot of aggravation.
buenas de manual utiliza para reparar
incredible lazy??? who i ask you re taps every hole and uses anti seize after they clean up the bolts?? only you my friend lol
you called it a motor and an engine.. lol! remember... motor is electric, engine is gas. :-) technical terms :-)
from Myriam Webster
Motor
2: any of various power units that develop energy or impart motion: such as
a: a small compact engine
b: INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE
especially : a gasoline engine
c: rotating machine that transforms electrical energy into mechanical energy
They are somewhat interchangeable.