How to: Ender 3 BLTOUCH with SD card support and no wires cut
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- The definitive guide for fitting a BLtouch to an Ender 3! Full SD card support and no wires cut in this easy to follow step by step guide.
ABL or auto bed levelling is a must for many Ender 3 owners because their beds have arrived warped. ABL will probe the print surface before each print and build a virtual mesh which alters the early layers to match the contours of the bed. The result should be a much better first layer and hopefully a better and more reliable print.
This is part 2 of a head to head ABL shootout, part 1 previously featuring the EZABL. The BLtouch emulates a folding servo and microswitch and is popular because it works on any build surface without recalibration. Other guides ask you to remove SD card support to make Marlin fit on the 1284P microcontroller, but some after worthwhile time spent in the firmware I found a way to have everything except the boot screen enabled.
This video assumes you have flashed a bootloader with my previous guide: • Ender 3: How to instal...
If you are getting this kit, make sure you buy directly from ANTclabs, not another vendor who is trying to rip them off.
Purchase the Ender 3 from these links:
Ender 3 Pro Banggood ($30 off with coupon 1d1c08): bit.ly/2OUcEyS
Ender 3 Banggood (US warehouse, Coupon: f2bf59): bit.ly/2Efoi6B
Ender 3 Pro Amazon: amzn.to/2DpkbEs
Ender 3 Amazon: amzn.to/2xyJ23s
Ender 3X (glass bed version): amzn.to/2I7dG85
BLtouch from ANTclabs on Amazon, adding 1m extension cable is recommended: amzn.to/2Ozfby2
Pin 27 board (Aus eBay): www.ebay.com.au/itm/113099279...
Pin 27 board (US - as part of the TH3D filament runout sensor): www.th3dstudio.com/product/ez...
Pin 27 board (eBay UK/Europe): www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CR-10-Pin-...
Pin 27 board (eBay US/Canada): www.ebay.com/itm/142980057378
Pin 27 board (eBay UK shipping worldwide): m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Creality-End...
TH3D Unified firmware: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-...
A guide I found handy for resources when starting my research: www.thingiverse.com/thing:297...
Alternate guide without using pin27 adaptor: 3dprintlove.com/3d-printing/ad...
Petsfang v2 fan duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
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#abl #ender3 #bltouch
*UPDATE* This guide is slightly out of date. It will still work well on the version I used here: U1.R1.10. There was a version of the firmware from TH3D after that had a bug that prevented this guide from working. This was fixed from U1.R2.1c. I have an updated guide using vanilla Marlin 1.1.9 with an option to spend a dollar to buy the files already configured: ruclips.net/video/sUlqrSq6LeY/видео.html
If I install TH3D U1.R2.5 can I use this guide or do I need to follow the updated guide? Thanks.
Teaching Tech h
SoTH3D is up to U1.R2.7 now. Does this still work properly for that or should I just jump over to marlin 1.1.9?
@@renegadeceo I would like to know this as well.. Please some information.
The instructions to switch the wires on the BL Touch may be incorrect! My Pin27 board matched the original pins on my BL Touch. Also, for the wire loom, it's easiest to just compress the whole thing and then the actual distance through which you run the wire is short. Then you just let it go and it moves back into place.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. I just installed my BLTouch, and the feeling of starting a print that just.... adheres perfectly is indescribable
I just installed my BLTouch following your instructions. Many thanks! I have a couple of things to note for anyone doing this after 1/28/19. First, the latest version of Th3D doesn't need anything removed from it to compile down to the requisite size. I didn't have to edit out the boot screen, as you suggested and still had a compiled sketch that used 98% of the board memory. The second is a quirk that I discovered, and hope that it's helpful to others. I first tried to flash the firmware from a Mac using the latest version of MacOS (Mojave), and ran into all kinds of communication errors with the board in my printer. I first thought this was because I'd done something wrong in my wiring, but I could find no errors there. The easy fix to the problem was to use a Windows computer to flash the firmware. When I did this, everything worked just fine. Thanks again for this guide. I've learned much from it that I hope will make my Ender 3 prints even better in the future.
Thank you very much for making these guides. FINALLY got the BL installed and setup after 3 days of tirelessly working on it.
Thanks for putting together the all-inclusive video on how to properly have the BLtouch on the Ender-3. Awesome work!
Thanks for watching!
Hey Michael, this has to be the most simple method that I have found so far.... and yes I have gone though too many youtube tutorials on how to do this. Great stuff.
Got mine up and running with this guide. My firmware was a little different but I figured it out. Thanks. My 27 pin was in the proper configuration so no swapping wires. I have a controls and automation background so no problem "but" some people may have a bit trouble with this guide.
hey man, thanks for showing all the information and tests you have done so that we all do not have to struggle. This one is my first one and everything that you've shown has helped me a ton. Keep doing a great job!
Thanks mate, appreciate it.
Followed parts of your guide to get my BLTouch set up with the latest TH3D on my Ender 3 and it helped a ton, thanks!
Side note: I made all the changes in this video to the latest TH3D (U1.R2.7) and still had 2% space left without having to disable anything. This means you can likely now have support for both ABL and a filament run-out sensor with only having to disable the boot screen. :)
Did same procedure on Ender 3 with TH3D_UFW_U1.R2.1a and it worked great. Thanks for a great tutorial.
You're welcome :)
Hello, I followed this tutorial using the TH3D Firmware U1.R2.7, had just a few differences, only 2 "BLTOUCH" search/replace and best of all, now there is no need to disable the boot screen anymore, it compiles to 98% of memory use at first attempt! Also, fortunately, my Pin 27 out must be ok because I did the swap like your instructions and everything is working fine. Autolevel is a MUST!!! Thanks!!!
I know this is now outdated, but this is still very useful. You have great tutorials. Much appreciated.
Perfect timing. my BL-Touch arrived last week!
Good luck with your install.
Great video! The BLTouch really is the greatest thing that's come to low-cost 3D printing in a number of years. Not sure many people realize that it's a simplified version of industrial technology. :D
It's a really neat implementation, I'm a big fan too.
thanks for the guide, it works perfect, and now with TH3D R6, no need to cut down any features, memory at 99%.
Let me thank you for this tutorial. I could easily set up my auto bed leveling by following the steps from this video.
Thanks Michael another fantastic tutorial. Cheers, JAYTEE
Michael - I want to thank you for this (and several other) fine instructional video! You were one of my best sources for trying to figure out how to setup my 3D Touch sensor on my Ender 3 - BUT -- I'm back here so that, when I order myself a BLTouch REPLACEMENT for this piece of junk you might benefit ever so slightly.
Also, I hope to spare other folks the waste of time, money and effort, TRUSTING that I will have much better luck with the BLTouch. Hopefully, I won't need their tech support, but if I do, I certainly hope it's better than the non-help I've gotten with this SECOND failed 3D Touch. It's well and good to offer a replacement on a failed purchase, but if the 2nd one doesn't work ANY BETTER (at all) there is ZERO functional benefit to the end user. Time and money right straight down the tubes - for NOTHING.
Well, at least I have all the mechanical and firmware work done.
Thanks again - you're a fine example of what a good instructor looks like!
Another awesome tutorial. Thanks Michael.
Thanks for watching :)
Just wanted to say thanks! Looking forward to adding ABL to my Ender 3 at some point.
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Brilliant again Michael
Great guide, thank you! If you do not have spacers to put between the mount and the touch, try using a spring from a ball point pen. Simply cut it in half. It will fit on the screw nicely and keep the tension.
The bltouch actually comes with two spring but I prefer it rigid. Great tip!
Great review. Looking forward to the comparison.
You make excellent videos.
Installed bltouch on my Ender 3. Would do the autohome check okay. Then would fail at first point in ABL. So printed several items using autohome only. Then tried ABL again and no fails. did find it produced a Y offset issue. Repeating autohome after ABL routine fixed this. Did NOT have to cut the capacitor. Have V2.1 BLTOUCH. Thankfully did not blow sensor with reversed wires. The marlin code changes were easy to do with the video info. Thanks much.
Very accurate videos, thank you for your huge effort!!
Thanks for a very helpful video guide (even if it is slightly out of date), specifically for TH3D. I am using version U1.R2.7 and had no problems editing the source code to make it work with the BLtouch. I even played around with the "EZABL_POINTS" value (in Configuration.h) and went with 7 for a 7x7 mesh topology map of the bed -- word to the wise, after you've uploaded the new firmware use the menu option: Control -> Initialize EEPROM -> Initialize EEPROM, or you will get weird error messages about 'EEPROM Size' when using Bed Visualize in OctoPrint.
I didn't need to adjust the 3-pin connector pins as they matched up correctly with the Pin 27 Board I got from Amazon.com. Though, I noticed in the comments below someone thought they had to rearrange the 3-pin connector based on the your video.
Side-note: Servo 3-pin wire color coding is typically; brown = gnd (ground), red = pwr/5v (power), orange = sig (signal). For the terminally curious see this FAQ: www.pololu.com/product/1046/faqs
Excellent guide - thanks mate! The newer unified TH3D firmware has, I realised, built in support for the BLTOUCH, you just need to uncomment the relevant section. Other than that and the removal of the need to reverse ground and 5v on the PIN27 adaptor for some devices (check, it'll be marked on the PCB), it all worked fantastically. Took more time to tune my Z axis than to fit the damn thing and flash the firmware!
Thanks a ton for the video- between this and your bootloader one I was able to get my Ender 3 running great!
I did have a few issues though-none your fault but I figured it might be good to document them in the comments for others.
The TH3d Board has correct pwm output (if you're facing the printer it's the pin all the way to the right) but does not have a 5v line where it should be. I ended up taking ground and 5v from the ICSP connector directly to the right of the LCD connector and this solved my issue. The TH3d board also has a vertically oriented breakout connector, as opposed to the horizontal one you had, so I had some clearance issues with the fan.
My BLTOUCH also came with a servo style connector that I had to resolder to connect to the Z-stop spot.
thanks for the great tutorial though and happy printing!
edit: also do you know if it's possible to set it so the auto home command doesn't slam the extruder into the bed? I'm guessing it needs to be told to activate the BLTOUCH somehow.
Earned my sub buddy!
Can't wait for the glass bed and auto leveller comparison, I started printing for the first time today and got my settings wrong... ended up scratching my build plate considerably ☹️
If the plate is scratched, the nozzle bore might no longer be round. Might want to double check it.
Teaching Tech I hadn’t thought of that, I’ll take a look
Many Thanks for the tutorials/ videos !! Many, Many Thanks. I sure wished there was a way to get that pin 27 board in the U.S..... keep up the good work !!
The link is in the description. Th3d sell it.
Thx for the reply...Sorry, I'm blind in one and can't see out the other...lol .. Just ordered it and shipped it overnight to me.... Also I was wondering the benefits from upgrading the motherboard in it to a 24v 32 bit board.. (to solve the run out of memory issues) OR a better board to run in this printer ? I am wanting to build plastic auto parts.. some are huge and will have to run for very long hours...(this printer is just a stepping stone.., I'm wanting to build a huge cube printer to do very large prints...)
I think there would be two reasons to upgrade: 1. Adding even more features that require more storage space on the 1284P. 2. The ability to change the stepper drivers to some TMC versions which run more silently.
In terms of 8 bit being limitation this was addressed by the main Marlin author in a video with Tom S.
Side note for the new Th3d version. You can comment out the advanced resume options to keep the sdcard and boot. Thanks for the vid worked great after trimming for space.
Also as said before the new Pin 27 boards have the right connections now, at least mine did.
Great video used it for the 10s just take away the pin 27 board
Great tutorial but I have couple questions. Will this mod/procedure work on the Ender 3 Pro and the Ender 5 as well? I have both of these printers. Thanks.
Thank you for linking to my ebay listing in the UK :-)
No problem.
Thank you. This is another excellent video. I had to add the script into the th3d firmware but went about it a slightly different way. I'm going to change it to the way you have modified the firmware. 😉
Thanks for watching Eric. I have an Ender 3 pro on the way, I will remake this independent of th3d because steps have been taken to make this guide void.
TH3D has now indicated that the original version of R2 firmware that cause the compiling errors/warnings, was an unintentional mistake. It is apparently fixed in the newest version. In fact, he has now ordered a BLtouch, and is planning on supporting it in the firmware.
I followed this video nearly 100% and I've got my BLTouch working no trouble. The 2% difference? I'm using TH3D version U1.R2.7A which I found didn't require me to turn off any features and still used on 98% of memory. There were a few other small differences with this version, specifically in the Configuration_backend.h file, but otherwise all was the same. I need to adjust the height of the BLTouch to have it be a bit closer to the bed, maybe. I had to set the z-offset on the printer to -1.50mm to get a good adhesion.
Just wanted to add my thanks.
Thank you for watching :)
Thanks for the video, to eliminate the memory problem I just changed the board to a Geetech 2560 and the printer Ender 3 operates a lot better with this board and you have the option to fit TMC's, or the Gen L would be fine. regards, RobUK
Great work! A lot of future proofing by doing that mod.
Great video thanks.
Wow 6:15 that is the smallest cutting board I have ever seen.
From AMX 3d, I have a video review on their 3d printing tool sets.
Great video!!!! Thank you!!!! I can't wait to see your final comparison between the two. I have experienced the "thermal deviation" using my EZABL that 3D Gussner mentioned. I wonder if the BL Touch exhibits the same deviation. Thanks for your great videos!
Not that I've found thus far in my other printers, definitely one advantage.
Now that this guide is slightly outdated there are some things which can be done much easier.
1. follow physical install like shown in the video
2. follow steps in marlin up until he instructs you to change to the tab 'configuration backend'
3. instead scroll further in configuration.h and uncomment bltouch, this is clearly outlined and displayed near the bottom. You can also uncomment the Pin 27 here instead of writing it earlier in the code.
This makes the install much easier
Thanks for the video...will be interesting how both compare as the bltouch is cheaper and has no thermal deviation
This is true, the EZABL has some other advantages too.
Looking forward to your comparison video to know what they are. I still plan to try both though :-)
Bltouch works perfectly and has the benefit of being able to compensate for different bed thicknesses, like if you change from plain glass to a flex plate with buildtak or whatever without having to re-adjust your z offset. What advantages does a cheap proximity sensor have? all options even a cheap microswitch are more than accurate and repeatable enough for a 3d printer.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Great guide but check the wiring of the breakout board before switching the wires! The pin 27 breakout board for the BLTouch from LlamourCar off Amazon, as well as a few others, are wired correctly so you don't need to switch the +5 and GND wires...I found out the hard way!!
works fine, only have problem witch placing the clips on the bed. The extruder is colliding with them.
followed all your steps and additinally uncommented following line
//# define BLTOUCH
since in last step you had replaced a setting with this value .
Also would like to add distance between bottom of bltouch/3d touch (not the pin) and hot end should be 8.3 mm .
My 3d Touch is working now. Thanks for making this helpfull guide.
Thank you
Thanks, looking forward to the back to back comparisons. Don’t suppose fitting a E3D v6 All metal hotend is on the cards for the Ender 3 ?
You can make a video with the new version and explain how to set the z offsets
New version with vanilla Marlin is coming. Z offset was in this video.
Nice job. I am new and learning tons..
Thanks Dave. Hope you are enjoying your new hobby.
Another awesome tutorial Michael. I have a question, did they upgrade to the Bullseye for the cooling system? I can find the same file you used for yours for my ender.
Oh and am I supposed to use the Bullseye Base cr10 8.29 to go with the Bullseye Duct 8.29 on my ender if that the one I use?
I printed my mount a while ago, then Auspost took forever to deliver to pin27 board. I later found out the mount I used had been removed because it was too high.
Thanks
Waiting for parts to install
You can give your FFF settings that will help (:
Just purchased your two pieces of S/W for the auto be BL leveler just wanted to know if these can be uploaded directly via the bootloader or are the just for information. Thanks Ron
Great guide! Certainly helps a lot!
Can you share that calibration gcode that you are using?
It's just an 'X', scaled to be 0.2 mm or one layer high.
Got a flickering screen until I unswapped the brown/red wires, otherwise this worked great.
Also the newest TH3D firmware is different, but you can still more or less follow along
I really wish he showed all the parts necessary, laid out, so you could see all of what was needed to do this. Being an incredibly newbie looking to help with the leveling process, this seems like a very advanced tutorial for those already familiar with all the jargon and in/outs of 3D printers. I'd say this tutorial is NOT for the faint of heart nor beginners like me...
hi i just followed your tutorial, it worked awesome! however i tried to use the new TH3D auto resume on power loss firmware and when i compile i get this error "exit status 1
'STOW_Z_SERVO' was not declared in this scope" do you know whats causing this? id really like to have the resume
Hi James, I haven't played with the beta. In future I may download it and pin a post with the updated steps if they are necessary.
Something to consider is running positive and ground to the 6 pin area that you use to install your bootloader. Reason is i ran a bltouch through the 27pin adapter and yesterday my display got fried. Was it the bltouch or a bad screen? I really dont know. But i do know i wired my first ender 3 through the 6 pin setup 6 with signal only going to pin27 months ago never an issue. Wired in a bltouch to 27pin adapter all 3 wires and within 3 days my display goes bad. Not saying its a bad wiring idea because i always leave coincidence completely open when it comes to printers. But it may be worth checking into to see if others have had the same issue and if the alternate wiring is or isnt a better option. But thought this would be a good video for teaching tech to show multiple wiring possibilities since he does such a great job on ender 3 videos
Hi. I’ve just got my bltouch (genuine one like you said help the developers so we can look forward to new stuff in the future). So I thought it be a good time to print the Petsfang off thingiverse. Downloaded the files but can’t find the files that you printed off for your machine.....
Am I missing something because love of god I can’t see them on there. Can you hint in which ones you used
Thanks brotha suscribed lol
Brilliant videos I've upgraded my ender 3 using all your videos. Installed the bl touch this week and a e3dv6 hotend I have an issue where I am now printing 20mm to the front of the Y axis and 10mm to the left of the X axis off Center how would I get this back to Center?
You can setup X and y offset in slicing software, but down the bottom of configuration.h there are custom X and y offsets to use too.
Great tutorial. My unit gripe is you didn't include a link or instructions for downloading the firmware.
Incorrect, please see this in the description:
TH3D Unified firmware: www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/th3d-unified-firmware/
Very nice. But I need my wires longer. I wonder if they have a much long wire setup I can buy or make it up on my own
Thanks for the video Michael, I did this mod using the other tutorial but always wanted to use the TH3D firmware so this def helped. Im having an issue I wonder if anyone else is having. I can't seem to do anything once the print starts. The screen freezes and the printer bugs out or stops when ever I try to do anything via the click wheel. Anyone else experiencing this?
I haven' heard of anyone else having this issue. Please post if you can diagnose it.
Welp I couldn't figure out what was making the printer freeze. But I've since updated to the Beta version of the TH3D firmware and the issue is no longer happening. Also didn't need to disable the boot screen to make space. The beta version leaves the chip at 97% without disabling anything.
Hi Michael. Thanks so much for your great, well explained videos. I am new to 3D printing and have just bought the ENDER 3. I've followed your video regarding adding the bootloader which worked fine. The hardware side of the BLtouch is complete but using the latest download of TH3DUF_R2 Arduino 1.8.7 the sketch is a little different from the video. I've tried the best I can to follow your video but when I try to upload the sketch I get the following error:-
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:42:0,
from sketch\printcounter.cpp:23:
SanityCheck.h:830:8: error: #error "SERVO0_PIN must be defined for your servo or BLTOUCH probe."
#error "SERVO0_PIN must be defined for your servo or BLTOUCH probe."
I did change the line 165 to:- #define SERVO0_PIN27
Where am I going wrong? Thanks Michael
Hey Michael! Great video as always, I'm still super new to 3D printers and overall tinkering with hardware, so your videos are very welcome. I've got a genuine BLTouch and noticed that the connector is a dupont connector style, instead of a JST. I'm having some trouble with the steps mentioned from 4:30 to 5min, as the wires from the BLTouch don't seem to properly fit on the JST plug. I've tried to just directly connect the dupont connector into the board but it doesn't seem to fit very well. Any help on how to deal with it is welcome, and sorry for the newbie question!
Normally a Dupont connector will fit. If it's wobbly, a blob of hot glue will secure it.
Thanks for the reply! Will investigate this option :)
so now I know what will be my next package for ender 😁.. btw - I assume it will work with bltouch mount only instead of going for hero me or any other?
It sketches me out to mess with firmware, never been an easy process in my experience.
I bought a BLtouch at the Creality 3D Global Store in Aliexpress. BLtouch did not work, despite what parameters I set. When the Auto-Home was first turned on, the nozzle slammed into the bed. It turned out that the Z-Stop had black and white wires mixed up in places. The black wire should be on the side where the other black wires are. Wasted two days
3:43 wiring the jumper
I am getting a “programmer not found error” while in the progisp program as well as “PRG/ISP” being greyed out. Any suggestion to fix this? Using windows 10
Great Video. How exactly did you setup you bed visualization plugin for octoprint?
From memory after installing from plugin manager, you just have to add g28, g29 to its configuration.
Others are telling me I need to have the following start code to enable BLTOUCH
G28;
G29;
M500;
M501;
M420 S1;
In order to save the BLTOUCH mesh results and make them active.
I am confused why others believe it's necessary to load save, load, and enable the ABL but the video says nothing about it.
Unless you have it configured very differently to default in Marlin, after the g29, the mesh is utilised immediately after. The only reason you would do it another way is if you didn't want to wait for ABL probing at the start of the print, and instead load a previously saved one.
you seem very smart, any idea where I can find install instructions for a 5 wire BL Touch ver 3 on a Creality CR10S5 with card ver 2.1? The firmware went ok, just need to know where the 5 wires attach to? I might have a wrong extension cable that is throwing me off but none the less I can sort that out easy enough....
Maybe I missed it but, how different is this compared for a CR-10s install? I've seen the question pop up in the CR-10 facebook forum but nobody really has an answer. Maybe an idea for a future tutorial? Great video btw!
I was under the impression that the CR10S had a mainboard with a 2560 instead of 1284P. I'm not sure if the physical layout is different or not. In terms of firmware changes it will be very similar.
Hi, was wondering how to set the z offset on the mks tft touch screen?
Next challenge if you're wanting to take the Ender 3 to the next level.
Install Klipper firmware w/ bl touch :)
I will test klipper at some stage but probably not this printer.
Thank you for the great video, I installed my BLTOUCH at 3D. The test from the BLTOUCH operating menu is lit but when it gives the home Z the printer goes up, and so stays. When I choose home all X and Y are reset Z axis down, even after the BLTOUCH sensor has hidden, the printer does not stop. Will you suggest what can create a problem? Where can I check this PIN 27?
Genuine bltouch? Reversing the plug into the z endstop plug of the mainboard is a good place to start.
Hi, i've followed your tutorial, however babystepping not showing in menu when printing. Any ideas?
I have an ender 3, and bought a 3d touch for a different printer would it still work with your guide?
Hey this is a great install video and that is great. I'm having an interesting issue though. If I print anything that goes out towards the right side of the bed, if you are looking at the printer, the nozzle grinds into the bed. Have you are anyone else had this issue and how did you resolve it?
The obvious thing is that the bed is not level and is too high on that side. You should do a live level adjust as the first layer is printing, as in twisting the bed knobs as it prints until each corner is pretty even.
This worked. Thank you very much for your help. You were completely right when I did a G29 and placed the output into lokspace.eu/3d-printer-auto-bed-leveling-mesh-visualizer/ I could see that the side of the bed that was grinding was much higher than the other side. I adjusted the bed knobs and kept doing a G29 and placing the values in the tool above until I had it fairly level. When I tried printing again it worked perfectly. You have a great channel and are helping newbies in the 3d printing world out tremendously. Keep up the good work.
Important note for TH3D Firmware R2 (lots of headache on my part): it supports BLTOUCH without any substantial customization and will not work with the instructions here. Just read the files as you go through. There are only like 5 lines you need to uncomment or add to enable it, and they are all described in the extensive commenting in the files.
Also, double check your 27 pin adapters before swapping the 5V and ground, the one I got definitely had them in the correct orientation already.
I have same problem i cant find old firmware and using u1. R2. 10d and i dont know what can i do
Warning to anyone doing this. As he wires up the three wires that plug into the Pin 27 board he mentions that the board is labeled, but you want in this order "[insert pinout here]". Make sure you read the label on the board. I listened to the video (all your videos are awesome by the way). The second I turned on the printer I heard a zap sound and smelled something burn. The Pin 27 board I had had the plus and ground pins exactly reverse of yours (how your kit came configured originally). I put them in the order in this video and fried my main board, maybe the BLTouch (I'm not sure yet). I don't know for sure how to test the BLTouch without hooking it up to the printer, and I'm almost afraid to do that for fear of burning up another main board (If that's a danger of using a potentially burnt BLTouch). Again, good videos, but make sure you are aware of anything you do to modify your printer people.
Sorry to hear that man.. hate to say it, but someone else realized this 6 months ago and also fried his board. Guess it always pays to read the comments to see if there is a mistake in the video in case the person recording doesn't edit after the fact for everyone else.
Seriously, this cant just come with ender pro pre assembled. Damn
I'm using r2.7 and noticed I only had two instances of the fix mounted probe to change.
Me too, and you don't have to change the flags in the backend file from true to false anymore. They are false already
Thanks for this video! Super helpful. One issue I'm having is after installing the pin 27 adaptor my LCD seems to have died? any thoughts? even connecting it directly to the board again it won't light up. toggling the wheel still clicks and beeps as usual.
Hey, do you plan on making a video on replacing the ender 3's fans for quieter ones? Thanks
Probably not, simply becase the loudest one for me is in the power supply and I'm not making a guide to encourage people poking around in there.
Just wanted to give you a quick fyi. Apparently the newest firmware cuts a few bytes out of the file. I did not have to disable the boot screen. I compiled it at the point where you got the error and mine completed successfully with 97% of the space being used. My firmware looked a little different than yours. Mine did not have the section labeled EZABLE_Enable or whatever it was it said EZOUT and the Z endstop min and the z probe settings were already set to false and they were in the same section, and yours were in two different sections. So that may be where the file size savings was done.
I was a little confused with the differences and was hoping I did it right, but it looks like it works perfectly. So I'm good.
Thanks for the awesome tutorial.
Also my BL Touch had a different connector end on it. Mine for the z stop connector had a two prong black connector, which works. I don't like the fit, but it does work.
Thanks for sharing, great info. If your dupont connector is a tad wobbly you can add a dab of hot glue.
After pulling my hair out all week, I have come to realize the newest firmware does not work. It looks like it is working, but does not actually do any leveling. Actually it works against you. I could not figure out for the life of me why no matter how I set my Z Offset I could not get a good first layer. TH3D broke the firmware for the BLTouch. I wonder if they know that is illegal if they did it on purpose.
I wound up finding the version of the firmware that you used and it works perfectly. i wasted a crap ton of filament trying to set my Z Offset with the new firmware. I thought I was doing something wrong. It kind of ticks me off to be honest with you.
Do you have a link for the old firmware?
Ildefonso Zanette This is the one I downloaded and it works perfectly.
drive.google.com/file/d/1XCNm3h6FSCaItx4ey-niidCy1rEZ5Rsc/view
bkpickell This doesn't look like the same one from the video?
If there's a chance you read this (I Hope!) Can you do a video on uninstalling a bltouch to get the ender 3 back to stock? There isn't a single video on that on RUclips.
It’s the reverse of the install.
Have you done a lot of printing with such a tight fimware size. One of the things which you can do to improve octoprint performance is to increase certain buffers, but even on a Rumba or Rambo marlin boards, that is limited, I noticed that even if I increase it high enough and it compiles fine, unless I leave a bit more room than that in the firmware longer prints lock up.
Hmmmm. On paper I would think that tight storage should be fine but tight memory would cause issues. I haven't experienced any problems yet. I think th3d has a large customer base so I would expect to hear more on this if it were an issue.
Buffers would be allocated from SRAM, not the programming memory. So with no programming space left, you would still be able to increase buffer sizes.
Just an update if you use the latest firmware from TH3D, they are trying to block the modifications you made in this video, trying to make sure the firmware is only used for their EZABL hardware.
To be more specific, they have a couple lines where you change the inverting settings to false, and they specifically call that out as bad, and then in a few other places if you disable their warning and bypass it, it sets them back to true again.
I suppose it's Tim's version of the firmware and he's free to do what he wants but I must say I'm still disappointed. I have an Ender 3 Pro coming and will revisit this then.
If i try to bypass the error, the next error is servo0_pin must be defined for your servo or BLTOUCH probe. What can I do about this error?
yeah, i had the same warning.
Did you re-set all the settings from this video back up in the other files? You need to make the same mods as before, but also remove the config error part, and then make sure they don't set it back to true again later.
Antitrust laws says he's not free to do that. You can't intentionally break something.
Unmount the two screws between Heatblock and cooler, in parallel to your heatbreak. This is a factory fault. They are only necessary if you want to change the nozzle. Have a look at the original design and documentation of the Micro Swiss hotend. The two screws make nonsense of your heatbreak! You can see the screws many times in your video, e.g. at 3:07. Peel of this yellow jacket of your heatblock to see it clear:-)
I don't have this printer anymore but when my Ender 3 Pro arrives I'll check for this. Thanks for posting.
I've recently upgraded the motherboard to the Creality Silent 1.1.5. Is there any chance you could cover the installation of the Creality BLTouch on this version of the motherboardand code (it's 1.1.8 - can't download it from the creality site yet and there's no suggestion it supports BLTouch so I'm not going to install ALB yet - that's next on the list).
Hello
I am brand new in the 3D printer area and have just bought a Ender 3 Pro!
With this I would like to retrofit a BLTOUCH sensor & flashing the firmware in the near future.
As a firmware, I would like to use the original Marlin 1.1.9.
Could not you also do a tutorial exactly like this one, without having to cut any cables, just with the Stock Marlin 1.1.9 firmware for an Ender 3 Pro?
And best would be German or English subtitles, since my English is unfortunately not so good, and so I would do something easier!
Thank you and love Greetings from Austria!
Hey great video! Would this same procedure work on a cr-10?
The original one with the same Melzi, I believe it will work the same. Just need to pick cr-10 in th3d and the wires to the probe will need to be a tad longer.
question: when printing multiple parts, cura uses the default extruder footprint to determine the distance needed between the individual parts when you select the option to finish individual parts. That footprint is now obviously incorrect which causes the extruder to hit the finished prints. Is there any way in cura to account for this?
@3:20 A couple of *millimeters*. I'm guessing a couple of meters is just a touch too far away... like on the chair beside the printer ;-)
Does the wiring mode on the 3 pin connector work with version 1.1.4 of the creality board? I tried it and NO it blew up my board!