Thank you for this video, i didn't know Anatoli Bukreev photos were out there. Much has been made of Anatoli Bukreev climbing without oxygen, but to me the the buck stops with the expedition leaders who agreed to it. Just like Bukreev, Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa didn't use oxygen either, but they both carried oxygen in their packs up the mountain for the benefit of the expedition's customers. The most tragic part of this story to me is how poorly people were able to communicate because of the lack of radios. In Scott Fisher's camp, neither Bukreev nor Beidleman had one - only Lopsang and Pemba Sherpa had ones iirc, not sure about Ang Dorje. If scott wanted to tell them something he had to give his message to the basecamp Dr. Kate Hunt, who had to relay it to a sherpa at basecamp who could speak english well and give the gist of the message to the sherpas in nepali. It's interesting to me that in Bukreev's book, there is a bit of a cultural difference mentioned, where some in the radio chain seemed to give a slightly more positive view of the situation than it actually was. As it became clear, that Doug Hansen was in trouble, the base camp doctor Dr. Hunt had tried to order Pemba, one of two sherpas who didn't summit to bring some more oxygen up, but he refused. Likely a sensible decision, pemba was a cook at base camp for Scott's the last expedition and he never had ascended higher than camp 4. As Bukreev got back to camp 4, he wasn't told there was oxygen needed up there urgently. Was Pemba too embarrassed, not wanting to lose face and mention the message he had received? It's possible this didn't matter much, since nobody seemed to want to go out during that time, even Bukreev needed some rest and perhaps the weather conditions were already difficult. The reason for the ropes not being fixed comes clear in the debriefing tapes, which are printed in 'the climb'. A member of the Yugoslav expedition had told Lopsang, that the ropes had already been fixed. In that context Lopsangs actions make more sense, since he knew it was important to Fischer to get Sandy Pittman up there. Also what happened to the "three is the maximum" rule for oxygen? Sandy was given 5 canisters that day. In Krakauer's book Ang Dorje is quoted to say "it's Lopsang job". Im not sure whether the reason for this is some kind of seniority thing between sherpas, or if he didn't want to fix the ropes with together with Krakauer or Beidleman or even couldn't for lack of rope. Lopsang, was very accomplished for how young he was, but Ang Dorje was older. Scott made Lopsang Sirdar (head sherpa). Lopsang Jangbu was an absolute hero, who tried to get Fischer down for nearly five hours. His accounts of Fischer are harrowing, in the throes of illness Fischer wanted to jump off the mountain, or ski down. I think that later on, Scott had been critical of his sherpa team over the radio, which makes sense, as Scott and Anatoli had previously talked a little about whom to keep for the next expedition and whom not. Doug having throat surgery weeks before departure also sounds like a terrible decision, i didn't even know that. How are you supposed to stay in the shape of your life if you can't exercise because you are recovering. Beck Weathers had a similar situation with his eye surgery and being blind because of it, but at least he had a good reason for it. Using normal glasses under the alpine goggles would have been bad as well.
Neither Weathers nor Hansen should've been allowed to climb though I don't know if they hid their infirmities. Judging from the various books it seems the rules are 'we'll supply the equipment/food/show you the way, everything else is up to you/your decision but don't blame us if it goes wrong' as opposed to 'sign with us and you sign decision making over to us and will do as we say' . Because no one will call a spade a spade we'll never know. Weathers book shows an intent to blame others for outcomes he chose like refusing several offers of assistance to desend whilst still expecting others to endanger themselves once he got into real trouble. I just wish I knew what they do/don't promise because it does seem like they leave the decisions to individuals who then expect more when they make the wrong one.
Rob was a great guy. Determined to get his client on the summit. Awful they both lost their lives with that determination. Great job putting this video together! 👍
It's criminal really that these guide companies are leading these relatively inexperienced "climbers" up Everest like cattle and they have no way of taking care of themselves or others when things go bad. Until Dick Bass paid guides to take him up Everest during his 7 summits quest, all climbers were experts by the time they got to Everest and could handle anything that happened.
Dick Bass, a gazillionaire with an ego bigger than his checking account bought and paid for David Breashears, a filmmaker-climber of some repute to guide him up Everest. If you want to currently see who's crying loudest about the slopes of Everest being filled with rookies, look no further than David Breashears himself. That punk ass bitch found no problem with commercializing Everest and turning it into a Himalayan amusement park as long as he was the one doing it. But damn, just let someone else try to make a buck or get his name in "Outside" and Breashears would start crying like a jilted schoolgirl. What a hypocrite!
No grown up.should be influenced by anyone..but i feel Hansen influenced Hall to get him to the summit even tho he was 3 or 4 hours behind turn around time..RIP Hall & Hansen..
Jon Krakauer and Anatoli Boukreev both agreed on the fact that Doug Hansen was about to descent, because he had reached his limits, but Rob Hall came to him, talked to him, and Doug Hansen then decided to keep ascending. Since Jon Krakauer and Anatoli Boukreev both disagreed on pretty much everything else, the fact that they both agreed on that incident shows that it most certainly happened. We will never know what words were exchanged between Doug Hansen and Rob Hall, but it's not hard to believe that Rob Hall convinced him to keep going, because he felt guilty for Doug Hansen to again fail. He had also convinced Doug Hansen in the first place by giving him a major discount for the second attempt.
Hanson had no reason being on that mountain ⛰ because the year before that the same thing happened and they were able to get him down but the following year luck was not on his side and for his recklessness he also took a good man with him who was not ready to die and was about to become a father for the first time and Hanson took that away from Rob Hall because of his recklessness.
@@awsome182 you may be write but I'm not sure about anything Krakauer has to say. He has always tried to make a real hero in Anatoli look like a villain to justify his own cowardness of not going back to help.
Part of being an adult is learning not to be influenced which is what every parent tells their kids. Usually about other kids trying to get them to try drugs, alcohol, smoking etc. They don’t say that when the person could be an adult authority figure.
I enjoy your videos. Your honest and thoughtful narration brings life back to those who braved the mountains but are no longer able to tell us their own stories. Your ability to tell these stories gives me the opportunity to see beyond their tragic ends; to see their determination and bravery and the sacrifices they were willing to make to follow their dreams. You honor their memory.
Doug and Rob are responsible for the deaths that day. Rob broke his turn around time rule. And Doug kept going up even knowing he had no strength left. Rob abandoned his clients to focus on Doug.
@@loulou7963because hall was comet8ng with Fischer for media coverage as Krakauer was writing a book and mis socialite was writing an article and in opposing teams. Lotsnof.publicity. why hall broke his rules amd pushed Hansen to turn around hurt the team bit there were many reasons it happened.
@@joerudnik9290 people say it was because Doug didn't make it the time before. Or that it would have looked good for the business. But Rob was a professional, he set his own turn around time. Every climber knows if you break that rule. You will probably die. In fact getting to the top is half the battle. You still need to get back to camp. And you only have a set amount of oxygen to do it. Doug was spent before the peak. And Rob still let him keep climbing.
Thank you for posting this. I hadn't seen anything about Mr. Hansen, but knew he was a very important part of the story. I also appreciate your adding the subtitles in, it does help to understand fully what you are saying. Great channel, and thank you again for telling this, mostly unknown side of this horrible tragedy.
So sad that Hansen wouldn’t turn around, even though he was ill and climbing so slowly. And Rob should have turned him around at 2, a tough decision that could have save at least 2 lives, probably more. Awful that Rob lost his life, when he clearly could have made it back safely if not for Doug. After Doug slipped and fell off the mountain, i wonder if Rob just felt so guilty that he gave up? His pregnant wife tired to get him to save himself, but he didn’t even move for hours. So many other things went wrong that day too.
I had not heard his history before. How sweet of the school children to raise money for him!! They must have been crushed when he did not get down.😢 I am not so sure that loved ones are on their minds up there. They should think long about climbing when they have people who need them.
#7. 00min be quite helpful if u show heights of those lower ridges to the valleys to give us an idea of scale. Another well researched vid showing risks & rewards of climbing 🌟
Stupidity. How many signs do you need to tell you, it's not safe for you to climb. Instead of listening to your gut feeling, you went with your ego. Not only did you lose your life, but you also were responsible for the lost life of another man, who was trying his best to save him. For the most part ego is responsible for the bulk of the deaths at Mounts Everest. Leave the mountain alone and cherish your family and friends more than your ego. There's no shame in that, but common sense prevails. But not everyone has common sense.
@jocarson5310 Doug might not have made it down, but he achieved his dream of summiting Everest. That's still honored imo. We should honor those who summited by didn't make it down. And this video did that.
A lot of chatter about ego, but I don’t think many understand the effect of altitude sickness and lack of oxygen even when connected to a tank and breathing it in. The brain is affected, poor or no decisions made, swelling of the brain and behaviour such as jumping to camp, taking gloves of and unzipping your jacket. Coughing and eyesight issues. All indications of altitude and insufficient oxygen. RIP all who have died on this majestic mountain, including the Sherpas.
Ok, after having watch Adventures Gone Wrong and Michael Tracy's videos on RUclips about this event, I have completely changed my perspective on this. Take nothing Jon Krakauer said as fact or truth, first off. This video is based on Krakauer's point of view. You need to read everyone else's accounts and take into consideration that since 1996, Krakauer has changed his story 3-4 times. Hall's well established turn around time was 1pm. It's in a bunch of documentation in the videos of the above mentioned creators. Everyone going for the summit decided to ignore it. Hall was trying to get notoriety for his company and was more focused on that than on conducting a safe expedition. Doug Hansen was a victim of Rob Hall's ego. Hansen knew that he didn't have it in him to make it to the summit and was going to go on down, but Rob Hall talked him out of that and instead to turn around and keep going up. At this point in the climb, Hall's team had 5 members opt out of summiting. He needed as many climbers as he could in order to look good for Krakauer's article for Outdoor Magazine. Oh, and by the way, Rob Hall was footing the expedition bill for Krakauer... Outdoor magazine paid Krakauer's climbing fee to the Nepalese Government. He completely climbed for free. Lopsang wasn't short-roping Sandy Pittman at any time in the climb--that was one of Krakauer's lies. In the picture @8:12, you see the teams up at the Hillary Step. *The photo was taken at 1pm.* Sandy Pittman is the one in yellow standing by herself at the top of the Hillary Step. Lopsang was in white with a blue pole in his backpack standing near the bottom of the H Step. There is no way he short roped her up that step and there is no way Krakauer could see bc he was close to the summit at 1pm when the photo was taken by Fischer. @9:23, that is not Lopsang. He was wearing a white covering over his climbing suit and had a blue pole sticking out. That person descending is Sandy Pittman about 75 feet from the Hillary Step. She was wearing a yellow climbing suit. You should also know that Krakauer abandoned both Yasuko Namba and Beck Weathers on the slope when he could have helped them. Namba and Mike Groom were descending together when they came upon Krakauer who'd run out of O2. They got him together, he recovered and joined the two in the descent, until they saw another climber descending at a rapid pace. Groom sent Namba down with Krakauer while he went to go see about the other climber. Before this happened, Krakauer came upon Beck Weathers who asked him to help him down and he refused. Mike Groom was the one who collected Weathers and had him in tow til they got the big huddle. In fact, until the storm hit, Namba was descending at an impressive pace and if she'd not run out of O2, she would have most likely made it back to camp. This expedition was the first of the season. One of the main reasons why Krakauer besmirched Boukreev was bc Krakauer wanted to summit first that season--he used the ruse of 'helping them fix the lines', but once lines were no longer needed above the Hillary Step, he took off to be the first person that season to reach the summit. Boukreev could smell what was up. When K got to the summit, he found Boukreev had beaten him by 15 minutes. THAT is where the animosity about Boukreev not using O2 came from. Krakauer collapsed on his way down near the south summit from lack of O2, so his recollection on things can't be taken as fact.
I wonder if Doug or Rob had the discussion about what if he couldnt summit this time, as well? Did Rob make a promise he could not keep? I think way up near the summit, without O2, the best decisions are not made. I dont know why it makes me feel sad for them, when this is what they wanted to do. It hardly seems worth it.
Hanson had no business being on Mt Everest. His whole climb was based on luck but his luck ran out when that storm came in and started to kick some ass . That storm exposed everybody's weaknesses. Especially Hanson's . He should of known that the year before that he should of been dead and Rob Hall the hero saved his ass. The following year Hanson had to pay for his negligence and he took Rob Hall with him . A man that was about to become a dad for the first time and Hanson and his selfish acts took that away from Rob. He should of told Rob go ahead and save yourself and then comeback for me because both of us dieing doesn't make any sense. Please Rob do it for your unborn baby that is really going to need you. Hopefully that would of propell Rob Hall to do the right thing and save himself.
I totally blame Hanson for Rob Halls death on Mt Everest. It was a senseless death because Hanson knew Rob wasn't going to leave him their all by him self.
It's 100% Hall's fault. Hanson realized he was at his limit and had turned around to go back down, but then Hall overrode that decision and talked Hanson into continuing.
You know considering that Rob Hall was supposed to be the adult in the room, I can say that he got them both killed, but I definitely blame Doug Hansen too.
I can commiserate with the feeling that it’s a waste to go so far and put so much effort into an activity and leave it incomplete……..but attempting is a laurel in itself.
I know its bad to say it but I blame doug to what happen to rob, because of his stubborness to climb the everest two more other lives was lost, think of the families the kids left behind..
Doug Hansen got Rob Hall killed because he refused to quit even though he had no business being on that mountain to begin with. He's the one I have the least amount of sympathy for.
When are they going to set some hard and fast rules? Everyone should have a Sherpa. By camp 4 if they aren’t doing well they are done. Set up a doctor/doctors at camps 3 and 4 for a health check. Set a time to be at the summit or you turn around. No exceptions.
This statement by @satt131313 is exactly what is wrong with the mountaineering community. I started climbing in the mid-late 1970's. By far the biggest reason I gave up on my goal of Himalayan-style climbing was when governments started forcing climbers to hire guides and Sherpas or high altitude porters. Where is the adventure in climbing as part of a mob with someone else setting all of the fixed ropes and carrying all of your gear? Where is the sense of personnel achievement? Where is the sense of accomplishment? Give me a break! I would much rather spend my life soloing peaks in the Cascades or soloing all of Colorado's "14ers" than bagging all of the 8000 meter peaks with the help of 300 people and buying each peak at US $60,000 each. For all of the graduates of American high schools who received their diplomas in spite of not being able to read and write and add and subtract, that's almost one million US dollars...roughly $840,000 to be exact. By @satt131313's reasoning, why not just charge everyone US $250,000 to climb Everest? This cost will include a helicopter ride over the dreaded Kombu Ice Field and eliminate that danger. Along with the fixed ropes why not install continuous oxygen hoses so that no one has to carry the weight of their own oxygen? And if there's going to be plumbing installed for oxygen, why not install power lines so each climber can wear a heated suit eliminating any possibility of frostbite and or hypothermia? And at that cost each climber can be provided with 2-3 Sherpas each, and at any given time two Sherpa's are carrying each climber up the mountainside while the third rests. Wouldn't want any climbers to break a sweat.
Nepal relies too much on tourism money. They do have all kinds of Everest rules, but they are not enforced, because they just want people to keep coming with money.
I was about to watch this but can't handle the narration. Had to read the subtitles at times because I couldn't understand what he was saying. No offence.
Had to listen to this sentence 5 times before I understood it: (2:02) Hansen couldn't think of a second attempt as the fee to ascent Everest under Hall's supervision was too much. Should be: Hansen couldn't attempt a second ascent, because under Hall's leadership the fee was too high. (This should be spoken clearly, without slurring the words as your narrator does.) Combination of an unclear speaking voice and unclear writing.
I can't feel any compassion for a guy like Dough Hansen, no way, see I can understand that a wealthy person could waste 65 to 100 thousand dollars to climb Everest, still a stupid thing but understandable, now that a poor man, a mailman, working two jobs and taking out a mortgage on his own house to pay for that stupid senseless "dream of his life", that was not a dream, that was total bullshit!
Thank you for this video, i didn't know Anatoli Bukreev photos were out there.
Much has been made of Anatoli Bukreev climbing without oxygen, but to me the the buck stops with the expedition leaders who agreed to it. Just like Bukreev, Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa didn't use oxygen either, but they both carried oxygen in their packs up the mountain for the benefit of the expedition's customers.
The most tragic part of this story to me is how poorly people were able to communicate because of the lack of radios.
In Scott Fisher's camp, neither Bukreev nor Beidleman had one - only Lopsang and Pemba Sherpa had ones iirc, not sure about Ang Dorje. If scott wanted to tell them something he had to give his message to the basecamp Dr. Kate Hunt, who had to relay it to a sherpa at basecamp who could speak english well and give the gist of the message to the sherpas in nepali.
It's interesting to me that in Bukreev's book, there is a bit of a cultural difference mentioned, where some in the radio chain seemed to give a slightly more positive view of the situation than it actually was. As it became clear, that Doug Hansen was in trouble, the base camp doctor Dr. Hunt had tried to order Pemba, one of two sherpas who didn't summit to bring some more oxygen up, but he refused.
Likely a sensible decision, pemba was a cook at base camp for Scott's the last expedition and he never had ascended higher than camp 4. As Bukreev got back to camp 4, he wasn't told there was oxygen needed up there urgently.
Was Pemba too embarrassed, not wanting to lose face and mention the message he had received?
It's possible this didn't matter much, since nobody seemed to want to go out during that time, even Bukreev needed some rest and perhaps the weather conditions were already difficult.
The reason for the ropes not being fixed comes clear in the debriefing tapes, which are printed in 'the climb'.
A member of the Yugoslav expedition had told Lopsang, that the ropes had already been fixed.
In that context Lopsangs actions make more sense, since he knew it was important to Fischer to get Sandy Pittman up there.
Also what happened to the "three is the maximum" rule for oxygen? Sandy was given 5 canisters that day.
In Krakauer's book Ang Dorje is quoted to say "it's Lopsang job". Im not sure whether the reason for this is some kind of seniority thing between sherpas, or if he didn't want to fix the ropes with together with Krakauer or Beidleman or even couldn't for lack of rope. Lopsang, was very accomplished for how young he was, but Ang Dorje was older. Scott made Lopsang Sirdar (head sherpa).
Lopsang Jangbu was an absolute hero, who tried to get Fischer down for nearly five hours. His accounts of Fischer are harrowing, in the throes of illness Fischer wanted to jump off the mountain, or ski down.
I think that later on, Scott had been critical of his sherpa team over the radio, which makes sense, as Scott and Anatoli had previously talked a little about whom to keep for the next expedition and whom not.
Doug having throat surgery weeks before departure also sounds like a terrible decision, i didn't even know that.
How are you supposed to stay in the shape of your life if you can't exercise because you are recovering. Beck Weathers had a similar situation with his eye surgery and being blind because of it, but at least he had a good reason for it. Using normal glasses under the alpine goggles would have been bad as well.
Neither Weathers nor Hansen should've been allowed to climb though I don't know if they hid their infirmities. Judging from the various books it seems the rules are 'we'll supply the equipment/food/show you the way, everything else is up to you/your decision but don't blame us if it goes wrong' as opposed to 'sign with us and you sign decision making over to us and will do as we say' . Because no one will call a spade a spade we'll never know. Weathers book shows an intent to blame others for outcomes he chose like refusing several offers of assistance to desend whilst still expecting others to endanger themselves once he got into real trouble. I just wish I knew what they do/don't promise because it does seem like they leave the decisions to individuals who then expect more when they make the wrong one.
Rob was a great guy. Determined to get his client on the summit. Awful they both lost their lives with that determination. Great job putting this video together! 👍
It's criminal really that these guide companies are leading these relatively inexperienced "climbers" up Everest like cattle and they have no way of taking care of themselves or others when things go bad. Until Dick Bass paid guides to take him up Everest during his 7 summits quest, all climbers were experts by the time they got to Everest and could handle anything that happened.
Dick Bass, a gazillionaire with an ego bigger than his checking account bought and paid for David Breashears, a filmmaker-climber of some repute to guide him up Everest. If you want to currently see who's crying loudest about the slopes of Everest being filled with rookies, look no further than David Breashears himself. That punk ass bitch found no problem with commercializing Everest and turning it into a Himalayan amusement park as long as he was the one doing it. But damn, just let someone else try to make a buck or get his name in "Outside" and Breashears would start crying like a jilted schoolgirl. What a hypocrite!
greed can kill you.
Mountain climbers are a strange breed..Thanks for the English subtitles
No grown up.should be influenced by anyone..but i feel Hansen influenced Hall to get him to the summit even tho he was 3 or 4 hours behind turn around time..RIP Hall & Hansen..
Jon Krakauer and Anatoli Boukreev both agreed on the fact that Doug Hansen was about to descent, because he had reached his limits, but Rob Hall came to him, talked to him, and Doug Hansen then decided to keep ascending.
Since Jon Krakauer and Anatoli Boukreev both disagreed on pretty much everything else, the fact that they both agreed on that incident shows that it most certainly happened.
We will never know what words were exchanged between Doug Hansen and Rob Hall, but it's not hard to believe that Rob Hall convinced him to keep going, because he felt guilty for Doug Hansen to again fail. He had also convinced Doug Hansen in the first place by giving him a major discount for the second attempt.
Hanson had no reason being on that mountain ⛰ because the year before that the same thing happened and they were able to get him down but the following year luck was not on his side and for his recklessness he also took a good man with him who was not ready to die and was about to become a father for the first time and Hanson took that away from Rob Hall because of his recklessness.
@@awsome182 you may be write but I'm not sure about anything Krakauer has to say. He has always tried to make a real hero in Anatoli look like a villain to justify his own cowardness of not going back to help.
Part of being an adult is learning not to be influenced which is what every parent tells their kids. Usually about other kids trying to get them to try drugs, alcohol, smoking etc. They don’t say that when the person could be an adult authority figure.
Absolutely. That's exactly what happened.
I enjoy your videos. Your honest and thoughtful narration brings life back to those who braved the mountains but are no longer able to tell us their own stories. Your ability to tell these stories gives me the opportunity to see beyond their tragic ends; to see their determination and bravery and the sacrifices they were willing to make to follow their dreams.
You honor their memory.
Doug and Rob are responsible for the deaths that day. Rob broke his turn around time rule. And Doug kept going up even knowing he had no strength left. Rob abandoned his clients to focus on Doug.
I agree. What I don’t understand is why he encouraged Doug to go on after he had stepped down earlier
@@loulou7963because hall was comet8ng with Fischer for media coverage as Krakauer was writing a book and mis socialite was writing an article and in opposing teams. Lotsnof.publicity. why hall broke his rules amd pushed Hansen to turn around hurt the team bit there were many reasons it happened.
So in other words, ego took away my common sense and my life.
@@joerudnik9290 people say it was because Doug didn't make it the time before. Or that it would have looked good for the business. But Rob was a professional, he set his own turn around time. Every climber knows if you break that rule. You will probably die. In fact getting to the top is half the battle. You still need to get back to camp. And you only have a set amount of oxygen to do it. Doug was spent before the peak. And Rob still let him keep climbing.
Never make decisions based off emotion.
Thanks for bringing us Everest stories..you do awesome job and always well done ❤
Thank you for posting this.
I hadn't seen anything about Mr. Hansen, but knew he was a very important part of the story.
I also appreciate your adding the subtitles in, it does help to understand fully what you are saying.
Great channel, and thank you again for telling this, mostly unknown side of this horrible tragedy.
Tragic story, beautifully narrated. Thank you.
Thankyou for this beautifully done
So sad that Hansen wouldn’t turn around, even though he was ill and climbing so slowly. And Rob should have turned him around at 2, a tough decision that could have save at least 2 lives, probably more. Awful that Rob lost his life, when he clearly could have made it back safely if not for Doug. After Doug slipped and fell off the mountain, i wonder if Rob just felt so guilty that he gave up? His pregnant wife tired to get him to save himself, but he didn’t even move for hours. So many other things went wrong that day too.
But boukarev and Krakauer both said Hansen turned around and hall convinced to go back up...
Just EGO, EGO and more EGO!!!
Ikr
Rob Hall always religiously stuck to his 2 p.m. turnaround time until that day.
Not to judge here .. but if you have family / kids at home … stay away from Everest … RIP
I think they should have left Hanson on the Summit.
Judgement was obviously impaired by the altitude and emotion..
Some people have a stronger death wish than others.
@frederick... Wow. Very strong statement, one which would make one break abruptly if on the bike or a car. "You made me think!" :-)
"He died doing what he loved"..if you love suffocating, freezing and terrified
And pay a fortune for the privilege
Freezing is better than a lot of ways to die
.
Sad but I’m glad these people make their dream before they pass away at least.
I would not dream of climbing an ice-cold mountain. I would not go for a million. I know I couldn't come back safely.
No one's life should be worth climbing any mountain, i dont even know why people would risk it . And they pay so much money to go meet their death .
Hope the climb was worth it.
Live by the sword die by the sword
I had not heard his history before. How sweet of the school children to raise money for him!! They must have been crushed when he did not get down.😢 I am not so sure that loved ones are on their minds up there. They should think long about climbing when they have people who need them.
#7. 00min be quite helpful if u show heights of those lower ridges to the valleys to give us an idea of scale.
Another well researched vid showing risks & rewards of climbing 🌟
That’s more than 8,500 meters ASL.
Stupidity. How many signs do you need to tell you, it's not safe for you to climb. Instead of listening to your gut feeling, you went with your ego. Not only did you lose your life, but you also were responsible for the lost life of another man, who was trying his best to save him.
For the most part ego is responsible for the bulk of the deaths at Mounts Everest.
Leave the mountain alone and cherish your family and friends more than your ego.
There's no shame in that, but common sense prevails.
But not everyone has common sense.
You should try your own backround music....I couldn't listen to a different voice that I associate with that particular music.
Sorry
If you reach the summit don't make it down alive, it doesn't count as successful trip.
I disagree. The summit is the pinnacle not the midway point. Each and every climber who summits has won the prize they sought.
@@jocarson5310...WRONG!!
@@jocarson5310 yeah you can go tell all your friends about it when you're dead. What an idiot.
@@jocarson5310reaching the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory.
@jocarson5310 Doug might not have made it down, but he achieved his dream of summiting Everest. That's still honored imo. We should honor those who summited by didn't make it down. And this video did that.
Great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
A lot of chatter about ego, but I don’t think many understand the effect of altitude sickness and lack of oxygen even when connected to a tank and breathing it in. The brain is affected, poor or no decisions made, swelling of the brain and behaviour such as jumping to camp, taking gloves of and unzipping your jacket. Coughing and eyesight issues. All indications of altitude and insufficient oxygen. RIP all who have died on this majestic mountain, including the Sherpas.
unzipping and undressing comes from hypothermia. They feel hot...
Ok, after having watch Adventures Gone Wrong and Michael Tracy's videos on RUclips about this event, I have completely changed my perspective on this. Take nothing Jon Krakauer said as fact or truth, first off. This video is based on Krakauer's point of view. You need to read everyone else's accounts and take into consideration that since 1996, Krakauer has changed his story 3-4 times.
Hall's well established turn around time was 1pm. It's in a bunch of documentation in the videos of the above mentioned creators. Everyone going for the summit decided to ignore it.
Hall was trying to get notoriety for his company and was more focused on that than on conducting a safe expedition.
Doug Hansen was a victim of Rob Hall's ego. Hansen knew that he didn't have it in him to make it to the summit and was going to go on down, but Rob Hall talked him out of that and instead to turn around and keep going up. At this point in the climb, Hall's team had 5 members opt out of summiting. He needed as many climbers as he could in order to look good for Krakauer's article for Outdoor Magazine. Oh, and by the way, Rob Hall was footing the expedition bill for Krakauer... Outdoor magazine paid Krakauer's climbing fee to the Nepalese Government. He completely climbed for free.
Lopsang wasn't short-roping Sandy Pittman at any time in the climb--that was one of Krakauer's lies. In the picture @8:12, you see the teams up at the Hillary Step. *The photo was taken at 1pm.* Sandy Pittman is the one in yellow standing by herself at the top of the Hillary Step. Lopsang was in white with a blue pole in his backpack standing near the bottom of the H Step. There is no way he short roped her up that step and there is no way Krakauer could see bc he was close to the summit at 1pm when the photo was taken by Fischer.
@9:23, that is not Lopsang. He was wearing a white covering over his climbing suit and had a blue pole sticking out. That person descending is Sandy Pittman about 75 feet from the Hillary Step. She was wearing a yellow climbing suit.
You should also know that Krakauer abandoned both Yasuko Namba and Beck Weathers on the slope when he could have helped them. Namba and Mike Groom were descending together when they came upon Krakauer who'd run out of O2. They got him together, he recovered and joined the two in the descent, until they saw another climber descending at a rapid pace. Groom sent Namba down with Krakauer while he went to go see about the other climber. Before this happened, Krakauer came upon Beck Weathers who asked him to help him down and he refused. Mike Groom was the one who collected Weathers and had him in tow til they got the big huddle. In fact, until the storm hit, Namba was descending at an impressive pace and if she'd not run out of O2, she would have most likely made it back to camp.
This expedition was the first of the season. One of the main reasons why Krakauer besmirched Boukreev was bc Krakauer wanted to summit first that season--he used the ruse of 'helping them fix the lines', but once lines were no longer needed above the Hillary Step, he took off to be the first person that season to reach the summit. Boukreev could smell what was up. When K got to the summit, he found Boukreev had beaten him by 15 minutes. THAT is where the animosity about Boukreev not using O2 came from.
Krakauer collapsed on his way down near the south summit from lack of O2, so his recollection on things can't be taken as fact.
I wonder if Doug or Rob had the discussion about what if he couldnt summit this time, as well? Did Rob make a promise he could not keep?
I think way up near the summit, without O2, the best decisions are not made.
I dont know why it makes me feel sad for them, when this is what they wanted to do.
It hardly seems worth it.
Hanson had no business being on Mt Everest. His whole climb was based on luck but his luck ran out when that storm came in and started to kick some ass . That storm exposed everybody's weaknesses. Especially Hanson's . He should of known that the year before that he should of been dead and Rob Hall the hero saved his ass. The following year Hanson had to pay for his negligence and he took Rob Hall with him . A man that was about to become a dad for the first time and Hanson and his selfish acts took that away from Rob. He should of told Rob go ahead and save yourself and then comeback for me because both of us dieing doesn't make any sense. Please Rob do it for your unborn baby that is really going to need you. Hopefully that would of propell Rob Hall to do the right thing and save himself.
I totally blame Hanson for Rob Halls death on Mt Everest. It was a senseless death because Hanson knew Rob wasn't going to leave him their all by him self.
It's 100% Hall's fault. Hanson realized he was at his limit and had turned around to go back down, but then Hall overrode that decision and talked Hanson into continuing.
@@VictorArroyo-di2eqhall convinced Hansen to go back up when he already turned back, though. I blame.hall.for most reasons.
You know considering that Rob Hall was supposed to be the adult in the room, I can say that he got them both killed, but I definitely blame Doug Hansen too.
Krakauer and boukarev both said hall convinced Hansen to go back up when he already turning to go back down.
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I can commiserate with the feeling that it’s a waste to go so far and put so much effort into an activity and leave it incomplete……..but attempting is a laurel in itself.
I know its bad to say it but I blame doug to what happen to rob, because of his stubborness to climb the everest two more other lives was lost, think of the families the kids left behind..
You climb MT Everest never conquer it.
Doug Hansen got Rob Hall killed because he refused to quit even though he had no business being on that mountain to begin with. He's the one I have the least amount of sympathy for.
When are they going to set some hard and fast rules? Everyone should have a Sherpa. By camp 4 if they aren’t doing well they are done. Set up a doctor/doctors at camps 3 and 4 for a health check. Set a time to be at the summit or you turn around. No exceptions.
This statement by @satt131313 is exactly what is wrong with the mountaineering community. I started climbing in the mid-late 1970's. By far the biggest reason I gave up on my goal of Himalayan-style climbing was when governments started forcing climbers to hire guides and Sherpas or high altitude porters. Where is the adventure in climbing as part of a mob with someone else setting all of the fixed ropes and carrying all of your gear? Where is the sense of personnel achievement? Where is the sense of accomplishment? Give me a break! I would much rather spend my life soloing peaks in the Cascades or soloing all of Colorado's "14ers" than bagging all of the 8000 meter peaks with the help of 300 people and buying each peak at US $60,000 each. For all of the graduates of American high schools who received their diplomas in spite of not being able to read and write and add and subtract, that's almost one million US dollars...roughly $840,000 to be exact.
By @satt131313's reasoning, why not just charge everyone US $250,000 to climb Everest? This cost will include a helicopter ride over the dreaded Kombu Ice Field and eliminate that danger. Along with the fixed ropes why not install continuous oxygen hoses so that no one has to carry the weight of their own oxygen? And if there's going to be plumbing installed for oxygen, why not install power lines so each climber can wear a heated suit eliminating any possibility of frostbite and or hypothermia? And at that cost each climber can be provided with 2-3 Sherpas each, and at any given time two Sherpa's are carrying each climber up the mountainside while the third rests. Wouldn't want any climbers to break a sweat.
Nepal relies too much on tourism money. They do have all kinds of Everest rules, but they are not enforced, because they just want people to keep coming with money.
@@thelogicaldangerthey mean it should be enforced. But won't happen.
This idiot caused Rob hall to die
get a different narrator. Narrator need not be a great mountain climber, but instead must speak clearly, as this is his purpose.
I was about to watch this but can't handle the narration. Had to read the subtitles at times because I couldn't understand what he was saying. No offence.
Had to listen to this sentence 5 times before I understood it: (2:02) Hansen couldn't think of a second attempt as the fee to ascent Everest under Hall's supervision was too much. Should be: Hansen couldn't attempt a second ascent, because under Hall's leadership the fee was too high. (This should be spoken clearly, without slurring the words as your narrator does.) Combination of an unclear speaking voice and unclear writing.
I can't feel any compassion for a guy like Dough Hansen, no way, see I can understand that a wealthy person could waste 65 to 100 thousand dollars to climb Everest, still a stupid thing but understandable, now that a poor man, a mailman, working two jobs and taking out a mortgage on his own house to pay for that stupid senseless "dream of his life", that was not a dream, that was total bullshit!