If only it was this straightforward. I have a drawer full of "dead" batteries that still read 1.25-1.35v. The only thing I have left that doesnt draw enough current to still work with them is an analog clock. I would estimate "Super dead" is like 0.7v, it is impressive you found one with 0.267v
Different circuits work on different voltages. A clock may work down to 0.7, but there is a very simple circuit that is called “Joule theif” which works down to 0.3v
The cheap red DMM that harbor freight used to give away just for coming in the store has the selection to check batteries ...................THE CORRECT WAY.......under a load. Good 1.5 volt batteries are 4.0, 3 volt ( alarm keypads ) are about 8.1 & 9 volt batteries are 25 mA.
Now connect the nominal load to this cell. For example, the bulb for the Maglite Solitaire flashlight type LK3A001 (1.5V krypton). And measure the tension again. And how do you know how to do it, maybe the load current?
I have two batteries where both measure around 1.4V, but when I install one of them into a analog clock, only one of them works. May have to check the short circuit current as well. But good shorts anyway!
@@phoperdox_sore someone once told me to add a nominal load (resistor) to the battery while testing, under load is when the battery must perform. I am yet to try this.
they need to be tested under load. that is why you use a resistor. 100ohm for AA-D and 4.7kohm for button cells.
but what which wattage? i have found them on ebay but it specifies 1/4 watt. Is this suitable for testing AA batteries?
Super quick and to the point. Some might say direct. Thank you ❤
The comforting voice ❤
If only it was this straightforward. I have a drawer full of "dead" batteries that still read 1.25-1.35v.
The only thing I have left that doesnt draw enough current to still work with them is an analog clock.
I would estimate "Super dead" is like 0.7v, it is impressive you found one with 0.267v
Different circuits work on different voltages. A clock may work down to 0.7, but there is a very simple circuit that is called “Joule theif” which works down to 0.3v
You are not getting a precise reading because you need to test them using a resistor to be accurate.
The cheap red DMM that harbor freight used to give away just for coming in the store has the selection to check batteries ...................THE CORRECT WAY.......under a load.
Good 1.5 volt batteries are 4.0, 3 volt ( alarm keypads ) are about 8.1
& 9 volt batteries are 25 mA.
Nice and fresh = fresh
Now connect the nominal load to this cell. For example, the bulb for the Maglite Solitaire flashlight type LK3A001 (1.5V krypton).
And measure the tension again. And how do you know how to do it, maybe the load current?
Yeah that’s not correct information those batteries can both be junk. Has to be under load.
I'm not sure why but i'm seing my standard AA battery read 80v...
I have two batteries where both measure around 1.4V, but when I install one of them into a analog clock, only one of them works. May have to check the short circuit current as well. But good shorts anyway!
Indeed
Still wondering what is causing this type of voltage behaviour in terms of the battery chemistry welp
@@phoperdox_sore someone once told me to add a nominal load (resistor) to the battery while testing, under load is when the battery must perform.
I am yet to try this.
👍
Unless you use a joule thief then get down to nearer 0v....lol
I don't see "0.267"... I see 267.2
Can anyone please explain?
It showed mV or millivolts. To convert it back to volts, divide it by 100.
267 millivolts & 2 microvolts