Have you used this product yourself? Have you got any top tips to share? Get involved and leave a comment? Cheers from Andy Fraser & Karl Hampson from TCB.
Enjoyed that boys. Personally i would go for method one or two. Method three increases the amount of contact made with the panel. But to throw a spanner in the works ive got an even better idea......and im gonna do a video to show it 😂😂😂 but yet again great presentation, nice to see Marc involved also! Love it guys 👌👌👌
This type of product must be super concentrated so it can still perform when diluted during the application. Maybe this is the biggest factor that caused the issues. Would a second application remove the spots? Sometimes a product will dissolve itself. As always there are compromises between ease of use, volume of product used and performance. Good video and thankyou for your thoughts.
I use wetcoat but i spay some on the wet panel then spread it with a small applicator and so on giving me full control of where I'm applying it , i find this stops waste and you know every part of the panel has been covered. Not keen on using through a lance as shown as there is Gyeon bathe 2 for that .
Thanks for this Guys. This is one of my go to products and love it! I use a slightly different technique, by spraying directly onto a wet panel as recommended (a couple of squirts), spread it with a microfibre, then power rinse off. I then thoroughly dry and admire the results! 😎
best way to apply this also saves a ton of product is spray a panel once, couple sprays on wash mitt pad to prime it. then 1 squirt onto each panel is plenty!
Another great video guys 🙌. My thoughts are if I use this product, I apply using methods 2 or 3 depending on ambient temperature and panel temperature. As always prep is key as you’ve shown in the wet work/decon processes. Contact drying is a must in my experience with this product rather than forced air to help avoid the issues encountered. It would be interesting also to understand the impact on the protection left on the panel after a water spot removal process as I feel that a quality WSR (as an acidic product) would substantially degrade if not remove this as a LSP. For wet spray and rinse sealants I tend to use another brand that is more economical as can be diluted down if desired and provides slightly better performance in terms of hydrophobicity and durability. Very interesting to see the negative result on black plastic trim. Another great unbiased honest review guys - thanks for all you do in this industry. 👍👍
Hiya buddy and thanks for watching the video and leaving such a constructive comment. I totally agree on the contact drying for such products, especially this 1. I think using a blower dryer, even if the car was ceramic coated, would more than likely take too long and potentially lead us to the problems we experienced in this review. Albeit I didn't show it on the video, your observation regarding the water spot remover is spot on. The acidic water spot remover killed the protection applied but we were at the point of damage limitation at this point and simply wanted to remove the stains left behind. I like you do use another spray sealant which does not seem to give me any of the associated issues we experienced on our review and like you, the product is dilutable for extra value. We did think about not releasing this video but alas our reviews are open and we welcome critique and advice so we thought it would benefit people in terms of them not having the same issues we did. Alas I think the best advice I would give is apply a minimal amount, use a considerable amount of water to rinse off, then contact dry immediately after. Hope your well and see you at the next event. Cheers as always.
Thank you Andy and Karl for letting me work with you on this one. As previously said the method I used is not the prescribed method coupled with an unknown PIR with the cannon & K4, but anecdotally I ran into the same issues Karl had in this video. Via my method I used a total of 300ml over three applications at diluted consistency but as the product was rinsed off and then dried instantly I avoided the white spots. In terms of a real world performance of the hydrophobic properties, across the whole car at 40mph the water displacement was impressive, at motorway speeds the use or windscreen wipers was minimal. Two weeks on from application this performance is still present. The gloss finish is still up there, but this and also come down to the prior preparation carried out the week prior.
I had a big bottle for a car I had ceramic coated with Mohs but sold 2 weeks later so I did eventually use it in winter on my wheels and plastic wheel arches only, as I prefer to use my waxes at every opportunity. I am not sure I would buy it again as I have been given a heads up on another channel that Concourse Cocktail by The Detail Kitchen is just as good and cheaper but I have not tried it myself. I do use the similar products by Auto Finesse on other cars I look after other than my own especially in winter.
Good, interesting review. Question - what kind of water did you use? Hard water may be reason for the water spots. Would de-ionized water leave the car water spot free?
Thanks for watching. A valid observation. Our water is moderate but I will test it again now you have asked the question. The marks on the plastic are too severe for hard water and I have used similar products with no such issues. A lot of questions have come from this review so we are going to retest in August. I will post the video and hopefully we can answer some questions people have been asking. Cheers again.
Please would you consider testing Sonax Profiline Hypercoat in a similar fashion? I’m a consumer and have lost all confidence in such products. I’m tempted by the Sonax version, not very well tested. Helpful video, many thanks.
Excellent. Look forwards to that. When searching I can find info and videos showing how to use the Somax version but there’s no “real world” experiences. I found a couple of videos in German which is a shame. I don’t think it’s heavily marketed in the UK. Many thanks.
Seeing Marc's method of applying it through the foam lance why wouldn't you just use a product designed to be out through a foam lance? Given the durability of 3 months. What were your thoughts of wet coat vs Infinity Wax Synergy Boost that you used a few videos ago?
Hey Alan, I do agree in part with that and previously I have used a different product that was lance applicable. My supplier of detailing products recommended this product to me and suggested it could be applied in that method. As with all reviews it allows for different interpretations of the application guidelines and also testing of other methods not listed. In terms of product performance, it’s behaved as it would be expected, the longevity of the product is now under test.
Good video👍 Used this for the first time last week. Applied on the wet car with a microfibre mitt then rinsed off with pressure washer. Dried directly after this with my XL hydro hoover drying towel and zero issues with white spots or any water marks.
Cheers buddy. As you say, if you rinse off thoroughly and dry straight away then you should not have any issues. I used it at the weekend on my Audi TT and no issues.
Great video again guys, I wonder if another technique might be to use it as a drying aid? I've had issues with it in the past (due to me not drying it immediately, admittedly) where it left a mottled effect on the paint which required IPA to remove. I only use it on my wheels now as a topper for the coating in between decons.
Thanks for watching. I would not recommend spraying on and then removing using a drying towel as the product needs to be used with the water to activate it during the rinse sequence. You could use as advertised and use a drying towel after the rinse, essentially benefitting the drying process with a towel as the clear coat would be more hydrophobic.
Thanks for an interesting video for a product I use occasionally. Instead of using a mitt/cloth to apply the product, I would just use Gyeon Ceramic Detailer or Cure. The forth method using a foam cannon, I've used that method with Autoglym Polar Seal. I have had problems using Polar Seal with marks left after rinsing and having to do a further step before drying. I've stopped using it now, so I suspect all of these types of products may be prone to water marks.
Work quick and no problems. Use too much, don't rinse thoroughly or don't dry straight after, these are where the problems exist. Cheers buddy for watching the video and leaving a comment.
What I sometimes do is spraying it on the panel, then buffing it with a wet microfiber glove/pad that I soak in a bucket of water before rinsing the panel. This gives it a slightly better coverage and a noticeable (but bot amazingly) longer durability of the wet coat. For a really good result I use the Essence and dilute it a bit stronger than the RTU wet coat. Great video with good tests and input.
Mate I have used this product for years and never had the problem you cannot do the foam cannon the instructions is spray rinse dry and do it like that and it is amazing I have consumed per today exactly 9.7 liter of the stuff in the course of 4 years and I wash my car every week and use this biweekly it is much since the longevity is stated as up to 3 months but as I live in Sweden I use degreasers that cut heavily on the protection as long as I use low alkaline like ph 9 it survived but going to ph12 and above or cold degreaser or strong citrus base it is loosing some protection thus I reapply. In Sweden we use salt a lot in autumn to winter conditions so it is taking a beating.
Hiya and thanks for watching. As said in the video, the lance applied technique was just an experiment and we also did reiterate that the suggested manufacturer technique was preferred and should be used. We also clearly stated how the manufacturer says to use it which as you correctly state is use, rinse and dry. That being said, it is also very important to make sure people know the outcome if you don't dry it straight away so with reference to that the video has value in pointing out what we found. Bare also in mind that a lot of people have used this product and also reported the same issues we had. I think we both agree that if you follow the instructions and dry straight away then you should not have problems. If you don't then there are words of caution using this product. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving your comments. Cheers.
It is the high pressure rinse water that charges and activates the coating helping it spread and chemically bond to the vehicle’s paint and trim surfaces. 1st and 3rd (HIS) are correct. @@thecarboutique2467
Thank you for this. I use Polar Seal and (just checked again) they stipulate twice in one sentence to dry after use. I'd hate to see what would happen if i didn't. Thanks again as real world testing is so important for us to see, especially when it goes sort of wrong.
Thanks buddy. I fully believe that there needs to be clear instructions to dry immediately. We rinsed the car thoroughly so it was not neat product left on the car. The product does work but not the most sympathetic product to use.
Decent video lads, I’ve used wet coat in method 2 for almost a year, never had a problem with any marking of the plastics or water spots. Sorry, I forgot his name but, the guy using the Karcher cannon, I believe that type of cannon works very different to others, as it is designed more for patio or driveway chemicals, so it mixes at massively low ratio compared to the like of the cannon we are more accustomed to like MJJC make.
Thanks for watching the video and leaving a comment. Your observation regarding Marc using a Karcher cannon is valid. Albeit he did apply to the entire vehicle, rinse and immediately dry the vehicle with no problems, I would agree that a dedicated detailing cannon would be more appropriate. That being said the PIR of the product applied would still be relative to the water pressure, the pressure washer you are using and indeed the cannon mechanics itself. I will suggest to Marc trying a more bespoke cannon next time and report back here in the comments. For info the marks on his plastic that we reported in the video where a result of the initial video test where possibly we did not dry the car quickly enough. Saying that you might be correct in the marks being induced by using the Karcher cannon. We will report back as soon as Marc can give us his results.
@@thecarboutique2467 oh no, I’d definitely say Marc’s current Karcher chemical cannon is more suited to this, because of the small amount that it allows through, something an mjjc S V3 like I use for foam would likely blitz through a massive amount of wet coat, as me going round the car using a K4 uses around 3/4 of the contents. I’ve not had the plastics marking issue but, I’m wondering if it’s reacted with what has been used to protect the trim pieces previously. Definitely enjoyed the video as I like to see how others find using stuff I’ve got, also really loved the wax video too, definitely new sub👍👍
I think the car had Koch Chemie Nano Plastic Care on it. Strangely the other car had no plastic protection on it but still stained, albeit it not as much. You raise a valid suggestion therefore that there may be a reaction. Will monitor on next use of the product. Cheers buddy.
The manufacturer recommended is still the best, when you did it you massively over applied it, one maybe two sprays at the top of the door then rinse would be more than enough, it carry’s on coating as it runs down during the rinse
Hiya and thank you watching the video and leaving a constructive comment. Regarding your suggestion of only using 2 sprays I can see merit however, the instructions are not explicit as to the actual amount to be used thus, a person new to the product may or may not use more or less. As you saw in my video, we tested the product using less and more product and found the sweet spot around 3 or 4 sprays. This was based on our car, our conditions etc. In response to your comment I have canvassed opinion on this from my network of professional detailers and there is a split in opinion. Some do argue 2 sprays but some suggest 3 or 4. Putting this aside, I do see merit in your recommendation as using ‘less’ may mitigate the issues we did experience so I will try the product using 2 sprays next time and report back. Always happy to be constructive and thank you again for adding to this discussion.
We did use 2 pressure washers in this video. An Ava P60 with a 35 degree nozzle and a Karcher K2 with the foam cannon. Will look at the wider spread suggestion when I next use the product. Cheers buddy for watching and leaving a comment.
Always fun buddy even if we did find some problems. We will investigate this product further and take a look at some of the suggestions people are leaving.
Well... that was interesting and I'm very glad I've not got the product, I always said it was too expensive anyway 😂😂. I've probably used a good half dozen of these types of products and never had any issues, you'd think that maybe they'd all have similar problems 🤔. As for spending an hour or more sorting out the issues, you may as well have applied a wax, probably got more durability, got to know your car better and spent less time, oh the irony 😅 All the best chaps.
Yes it was annoying but people are making valid suggestions in the comments as to possible causal factors. I have used many of these spray on type sealants and never had an issue. More investigation required to solve this mystery. Thanks again buddy for watching and leaving a comment.
Have you used this product yourself? Have you got any top tips to share? Get involved and leave a comment? Cheers from Andy Fraser & Karl Hampson from TCB.
Enjoyed that boys. Personally i would go for method one or two. Method three increases the amount of contact made with the panel. But to throw a spanner in the works ive got an even better idea......and im gonna do a video to show it 😂😂😂 but yet again great presentation, nice to see Marc involved also! Love it guys 👌👌👌
interested in your alternate technique- have you done the video ?
This type of product must be super concentrated so it can still perform when diluted during the application. Maybe this is the biggest factor that caused the issues. Would a second application remove the spots? Sometimes a product will dissolve itself.
As always there are compromises between ease of use, volume of product used and performance.
Good video and thankyou for your thoughts.
I use wetcoat but i spay some on the wet panel then spread it with a small applicator and so on giving me full control of where I'm applying it , i find this stops waste and you know every part of the panel has been covered. Not keen on using through a lance as shown as there is Gyeon bathe 2 for that .
Thanks for watching. I think your idea of spraying on and using a small applicator is a very good idea and 1 I will certainly try. Cheers.
Thanks guys, I always use Nanolex Wash coat, required same method as Mark (no4), no issues and a lovely smell 😍
Thanks for watching. Nanolex is a brand I really want to try this year. Not used any of their products yet. Thanks for the recommendation.
Thanks for this Guys. This is one of my go to products and love it! I use a slightly different technique, by spraying directly onto a wet panel as recommended (a couple of squirts), spread it with a microfibre, then power rinse off. I then thoroughly dry and admire the results! 😎
best way to apply this also saves a ton of product is spray a panel once, couple sprays on wash mitt pad to prime it. then 1 squirt onto each panel is plenty!
Another great video guys 🙌. My thoughts are if I use this product, I apply using methods 2 or 3 depending on ambient temperature and panel temperature. As always prep is key as you’ve shown in the wet work/decon processes.
Contact drying is a must in my experience with this product rather than forced air to help avoid the issues encountered.
It would be interesting also to understand the impact on the protection left on the panel after a water spot removal process as I feel that a quality WSR (as an acidic product) would substantially degrade if not remove this as a LSP.
For wet spray and rinse sealants I tend to use another brand that is more economical as can be diluted down if desired and provides slightly better performance in terms of hydrophobicity and durability. Very interesting to see the negative result on black plastic trim. Another great unbiased honest review guys - thanks for all you do in this industry. 👍👍
Hiya buddy and thanks for watching the video and leaving such a constructive comment. I totally agree on the contact drying for such products, especially this 1. I think using a blower dryer, even if the car was ceramic coated, would more than likely take too long and potentially lead us to the problems we experienced in this review. Albeit I didn't show it on the video, your observation regarding the water spot remover is spot on. The acidic water spot remover killed the protection applied but we were at the point of damage limitation at this point and simply wanted to remove the stains left behind. I like you do use another spray sealant which does not seem to give me any of the associated issues we experienced on our review and like you, the product is dilutable for extra value. We did think about not releasing this video but alas our reviews are open and we welcome critique and advice so we thought it would benefit people in terms of them not having the same issues we did. Alas I think the best advice I would give is apply a minimal amount, use a considerable amount of water to rinse off, then contact dry immediately after. Hope your well and see you at the next event. Cheers as always.
Thank you Andy and Karl for letting me work with you on this one. As previously said the method I used is not the prescribed method coupled with an unknown PIR with the cannon & K4, but anecdotally I ran into the same issues Karl had in this video.
Via my method I used a total of 300ml over three applications at diluted consistency but as the product was rinsed off and then dried instantly I avoided the white spots.
In terms of a real world performance of the hydrophobic properties, across the whole car at 40mph the water displacement was impressive, at motorway speeds the use or windscreen wipers was minimal. Two weeks on from application this performance is still present. The gloss finish is still up there, but this and also come down to the prior preparation carried out the week prior.
Cheers for update Marc.
I had a big bottle for a car I had ceramic coated with Mohs but sold 2 weeks later so I did eventually use it in winter on my wheels and plastic wheel arches only, as I prefer to use my waxes at every opportunity. I am not sure I would buy it again as I have been given a heads up on another channel that Concourse Cocktail by The Detail Kitchen is just as good and cheaper but I have not tried it myself. I do use the similar products by Auto Finesse on other cars I look after other than my own especially in winter.
Good, interesting review. Question - what kind of water did you use? Hard water may be reason for the water spots. Would de-ionized water leave the car water spot free?
Thanks for watching. A valid observation. Our water is moderate but I will test it again now you have asked the question. The marks on the plastic are too severe for hard water and I have used similar products with no such issues. A lot of questions have come from this review so we are going to retest in August. I will post the video and hopefully we can answer some questions people have been asking. Cheers again.
Please would you consider testing Sonax Profiline Hypercoat in a similar fashion? I’m a consumer and have lost all confidence in such products. I’m tempted by the Sonax version, not very well tested. Helpful video, many thanks.
Steve. I will order it today as it is not a product I have used and would love to review. Cheers.
Excellent. Look forwards to that. When searching I can find info and videos showing how to use the Somax version but there’s no “real world” experiences. I found a couple of videos in German which is a shame. I don’t think it’s heavily marketed in the UK. Many thanks.
Sonax Profiline Hypercoat review coming soon. We have not forgotten. Cheers.
Should try the wet coat essence in a cannon
Seeing Marc's method of applying it through the foam lance why wouldn't you just use a product designed to be out through a foam lance?
Given the durability of 3 months. What were your thoughts of wet coat vs Infinity Wax Synergy Boost that you used a few videos ago?
Hey Alan, I do agree in part with that and previously I have used a different product that was lance applicable. My supplier of detailing products recommended this product to me and suggested it could be applied in that method.
As with all reviews it allows for different interpretations of the application guidelines and also testing of other methods not listed.
In terms of product performance, it’s behaved as it would be expected, the longevity of the product is now under test.
Instead of Gyeon Wet Coat what other product like this do you prefer?
Mile Deep Shield.
CARPRO HydrO2
I have now switched to Bilt Hamber Touch-On and Mile Deep Shield.
Good video👍
Used this for the first time last week.
Applied on the wet car with a microfibre mitt then rinsed off with pressure washer.
Dried directly after this with my XL hydro hoover drying towel and zero issues with white spots or any water marks.
Cheers buddy. As you say, if you rinse off thoroughly and dry straight away then you should not have any issues. I used it at the weekend on my Audi TT and no issues.
Great video again guys, I wonder if another technique might be to use it as a drying aid? I've had issues with it in the past (due to me not drying it immediately, admittedly) where it left a mottled effect on the paint which required IPA to remove. I only use it on my wheels now as a topper for the coating in between decons.
Thanks for watching. I would not recommend spraying on and then removing using a drying towel as the product needs to be used with the water to activate it during the rinse sequence. You could use as advertised and use a drying towel after the rinse, essentially benefitting the drying process with a towel as the clear coat would be more hydrophobic.
Ah, very good point!
Thanks for an interesting video for a product I use occasionally. Instead of using a mitt/cloth to apply the product, I would just use Gyeon Ceramic Detailer or Cure. The forth method using a foam cannon, I've used that method with Autoglym Polar Seal. I have had problems using Polar Seal with marks left after rinsing and having to do a further step before drying. I've stopped using it now, so I suspect all of these types of products may be prone to water marks.
I'm watching from Japan!
Since it can be purchased in Japan, I would like to use it as a reference.
Enjoyable vid guys .very informative with things to watch out for when using the product.(with car plastics). Will pass on giving it a try👍.
Work quick and no problems. Use too much, don't rinse thoroughly or don't dry straight after, these are where the problems exist. Cheers buddy for watching the video and leaving a comment.
I used on my SUV (already have Gyeon Mosh ceramic with Skin 4 years application) but with these upgrade maintenance looks better! Really improvement!
Thanks buddy.
Great product. Convinced me to dig it out and give it a use again. Good video chaps.
Use, rinse and dry immediately and you should have no problems. Thanks for watching the video.
What I sometimes do is spraying it on the panel, then buffing it with a wet microfiber glove/pad that I soak in a bucket of water before rinsing the panel. This gives it a slightly better coverage and a noticeable (but bot amazingly) longer durability of the wet coat. For a really good result I use the Essence and dilute it a bit stronger than the RTU wet coat.
Great video with good tests and input.
Thank you for watching and leaving your suggestions. All noted buddy
I vote for wash mitt...I use Gwet❤ for 2 years now with no issues . Another great video🎉
Thanks buddy. Who makes the mitt you recommend buddy. Will give it a try.
Very interesting video guys. Was toying with giving it a go, but to be honest after watching yourselves I will be sticking with Bead Juice.
A safer option at the moment until I find out what the staining issue is. Have to be honest in a review or there is no point in doing it. Cheers.
Mate I have used this product for years and never had the problem you cannot do the foam cannon the instructions is spray rinse dry and do it like that and it is amazing I have consumed per today exactly 9.7 liter of the stuff in the course of 4 years and I wash my car every week and use this biweekly it is much since the longevity is stated as up to 3 months but as I live in Sweden I use degreasers that cut heavily on the protection as long as I use low alkaline like ph 9 it survived but going to ph12 and above or cold degreaser or strong citrus base it is loosing some protection thus I reapply. In Sweden we use salt a lot in autumn to winter conditions so it is taking a beating.
Hiya and thanks for watching. As said in the video, the lance applied technique was just an experiment and we also did reiterate that the suggested manufacturer technique was preferred and should be used. We also clearly stated how the manufacturer says to use it which as you correctly state is use, rinse and dry. That being said, it is also very important to make sure people know the outcome if you don't dry it straight away so with reference to that the video has value in pointing out what we found. Bare also in mind that a lot of people have used this product and also reported the same issues we had. I think we both agree that if you follow the instructions and dry straight away then you should not have problems. If you don't then there are words of caution using this product. Thanks again for watching the video and leaving your comments. Cheers.
He applies in the same way I put on autosmart aquaseal rapid ceramic
Thanks for watching buddy. Albeit it doesn't specify this application method in the instructions, it does seem popular by some.
It is the high pressure rinse water that charges and activates the coating helping it spread and chemically bond to the vehicle’s paint and trim surfaces. 1st and 3rd (HIS) are correct.
@@thecarboutique2467
Thank you for this. I use Polar Seal and (just checked again) they stipulate twice in one sentence to dry after use. I'd hate to see what would happen if i didn't.
Thanks again as real world testing is so important for us to see, especially when it goes sort of wrong.
Thanks buddy. I fully believe that there needs to be clear instructions to dry immediately. We rinsed the car thoroughly so it was not neat product left on the car. The product does work but not the most sympathetic product to use.
Another really really good video really enjoyed watching ! Brilliant 👍
Thank you very much for watching and leaving a comment. Appreciate it.
Decent video lads, I’ve used wet coat in method 2 for almost a year, never had a problem with any marking of the plastics or water spots.
Sorry, I forgot his name but, the guy using the Karcher cannon, I believe that type of cannon works very different to others, as it is designed more for patio or driveway chemicals, so it mixes at massively low ratio compared to the like of the cannon we are more accustomed to like MJJC make.
Thanks for watching the video and leaving a comment. Your observation regarding Marc using a Karcher cannon is valid. Albeit he did apply to the entire vehicle, rinse and immediately dry the vehicle with no problems, I would agree that a dedicated detailing cannon would be more appropriate. That being said the PIR of the product applied would still be relative to the water pressure, the pressure washer you are using and indeed the cannon mechanics itself. I will suggest to Marc trying a more bespoke cannon next time and report back here in the comments. For info the marks on his plastic that we reported in the video where a result of the initial video test where possibly we did not dry the car quickly enough. Saying that you might be correct in the marks being induced by using the Karcher cannon. We will report back as soon as Marc can give us his results.
@@thecarboutique2467 oh no, I’d definitely say Marc’s current Karcher chemical cannon is more suited to this, because of the small amount that it allows through, something an mjjc S V3 like I use for foam would likely blitz through a massive amount of wet coat, as me going round the car using a K4 uses around 3/4 of the contents.
I’ve not had the plastics marking issue but, I’m wondering if it’s reacted with what has been used to protect the trim pieces previously.
Definitely enjoyed the video as I like to see how others find using stuff I’ve got, also really loved the wax video too, definitely new sub👍👍
I think the car had Koch Chemie Nano Plastic Care on it. Strangely the other car had no plastic protection on it but still stained, albeit it not as much. You raise a valid suggestion therefore that there may be a reaction. Will monitor on next use of the product. Cheers buddy.
Very honest review lads, won't be putting it on my shopping list. Will stick with Bilt Hamber Touch On and Autobrite Magiseal
I would probably agree. I think that Mile Deep Shield is my favourite spray on sealant at the moment. None of these staining issues.
The manufacturer recommended is still the best, when you did it you massively over applied it, one maybe two sprays at the top of the door then rinse would be more than enough, it carry’s on coating as it runs down during the rinse
Hiya and thank you watching the video and leaving a constructive comment. Regarding your suggestion of only using 2 sprays I can see merit however, the instructions are not explicit as to the actual amount to be used thus, a person new to the product may or may not use more or less. As you saw in my video, we tested the product using less and more product and found the sweet spot around 3 or 4 sprays. This was based on our car, our conditions etc. In response to your comment I have canvassed opinion on this from my network of professional detailers and there is a split in opinion. Some do argue 2 sprays but some suggest 3 or 4. Putting this aside, I do see merit in your recommendation as using ‘less’ may mitigate the issues we did experience so I will try the product using 2 sprays next time and report back. Always happy to be constructive and thank you again for adding to this discussion.
I didnt know a ceramic coating reduces scratches ? is that correct ?
Lol. It doesn't reduce scratches per se however, it does help to protect against light abrasion marring induced by your wash and dry process.
maybe a better trigger gun with more spread as that one seemed very concentrated on 1 area
We did use 2 pressure washers in this video. An Ava P60 with a 35 degree nozzle and a Karcher K2 with the foam cannon. Will look at the wider spread suggestion when I next use the product. Cheers buddy for watching and leaving a comment.
Another negative of using a mitt is your touching the paint physically another chance to marr the paintwork less touching less marring
You raise a very point and definitely something to consider when deciding on your application method. Cheers.
Had fun as always 😁 but I’m not gonna spoil it for others by posting my thoughts here 😂
Always fun buddy even if we did find some problems. We will investigate this product further and take a look at some of the suggestions people are leaving.
Great product for winter
Cheers buddy.
Well... that was interesting and I'm very glad I've not got the product, I always said it was too expensive anyway 😂😂.
I've probably used a good half dozen of these types of products and never had any issues, you'd think that maybe they'd all have similar problems 🤔.
As for spending an hour or more sorting out the issues, you may as well have applied a wax, probably got more durability, got to know your car better and spent less time, oh the irony 😅
All the best chaps.
Yes it was annoying but people are making valid suggestions in the comments as to possible causal factors. I have used many of these spray on type sealants and never had an issue. More investigation required to solve this mystery. Thanks again buddy for watching and leaving a comment.
How about just using it on your wheels?
Good call. I have been using it on me wheels ever since. Cheers.
It’s diluted in every technique you use as it’s water activated.
Yes it is.