Im like a kid waiting for Christmas with this R2 building series. I really cant wait for the day that this project is finished. Keep up the great work :)
Thank you for your dedication to this project. It has given me the drive to start one myself. I have completed the dome and now about half way through the body and it is looking pretty darn good for a home made 3d printer. That being said, your R2 looks awesome and again, thank you for sharing.
Awesome build, well done! If I ever get around to doing an R2 build, I think I'll use a combination of traditional methods and 3D printing (especially for things like vents and coin slots).
before you weather the R2 unit, remember, they all had at least one day where they were fresh out of the factory without a scratch on him. let him enjoy feeling snazzy before you beat him up!
For run in paint, if you run your fingers over the sticky side of masking tape then lightly press over the run then pull straight out, it will remove the excess paint. This has to be done when you make the paint run so it is still wet and allows the paint left on the model to smooth on its own.
It seems that Part 4 is the limit of tolerance for your large scale projects. I do hope you get back to them sooner or later. That is a lot of work you put into these so far not to finish them.
@@MightyJabbasCollection Good to hear. I understand it's a ton of work. The sanding alone is not for the faint of heart. :) Sanding filament isn't like sanding wood or styrene.
It looks great! I’m printing mine now from his v.2 files but am going to make an R6 dome as well as the R2 dome so I can have both BT-1 as well as R2-Q5. I’ve got 3 printers going right now so I’m averaging between 30-45 hours of printing per day because I’m terrible at waiting for things!
Matt Haynes Nice! When I was printing the parts for this I only had one printer so it took a long time, but I’ve wondered how long it would take to print a full droid now that I have several printers at my disposal...
Great video, good job on the project, just one thing, for the blue parts you could have painted them silver, and then came back with duplicolor blue metal cast spray paint over them. It is a candy(translucent blue) and over a solver it really pops in the light, only issue with candies is getting even coats of you will have dark spots, and if you don't paint all of the blue parts at once you can wind up with differing shades of blue
Thanks. I actually tried several approaches for the blue back when I was making the dome, including "blurple" where you start with a purple undercoat, as well as something similar to what you described. But I found that I had trouble getting the look I wanted consistently, so I went with a single color approach
Mighty Jabba's Collection good job either way, one day I'll devote the time to printing an R2, for the time being I need to get started printing my scout trooper armor, if I can get all the bugs worked out of my folgertech ft-5. I've tried several times now to print a large scale death star for a diorama , but the old pla I was using kept breaking part way through the print of just half the death star and I'd wake up to failed print after print...
Awesome build, it came out great! I've been wanting to build something larger like this myself but I feel like my dremel would take forever to spit out parts. I'm definitely eyeing a larger print bead for my next one. If I manage that I think a BB8 may be in my future :P
This was 90% done on a Dremel, so it's not impossible, but yes, it did take a long time. Plus I had issues with warping, as I mentioned. A large, heated bed is really a plus for this kind of thing
As a body guy I have a few tips The first is with the glazing putty. It appears you use a lacquer based putty. This stuff is garbage and is much more likely to discolor your paint as it ages. It also takes a long time to cure and shrinks a lot. You want a polyester putty, it's 2 parts and cures much faster and it varies based on the amount of hardener you use(instant to around 30 min). The hardener comes in blue and red, you want blue, especially if your finished color is white as the red can have the same yellowing effect. amzn.to/2zHYixt The putty amzn.to/2zv88Sw Spray can primer is meh, they make better 2 part spray primer that has to be activated, getting a another a airbrush or a more professional setup would be much better, the advantages are it dries harder/faster, your sand paper doesn't gum up as much and it shrinks less. amzn.to/2ylXuu7 Finally, you should use sanding pads and blocks(dense foam blocks for curved surfaces), allot of your lines and flat surfaces suffered because you had uneven pressure and attention to certain areas due to your fingers. Better products can cost more but ultimately, you're in for less labor and frustration.
Thanks for the tips. To be honest I'm still a beginner so as I said it's a learning experience for me. But I did actually use a sanding block for much of it -- I just didn't show it on camera.
Cool video you could design his legs a rod going into R2 and coming out the other end with the legs attached to each end of the rod this would decrease his mobility but he wasn’t exactly the most athletic droid ever unlike the action figures so that might be more realistic
Sorry if you already said it, but did you print the whole body in PLA too? I know you printed the dome in PLA but wasn't sure about the body. I'm hoping to print one too just as a static piece same as yours. I'm really new to 3D printing (only just bought a 3D printer which is arriving next week), so I know it is ambitious but I'd like to take on this project as one of my 3D printing goals. I've been watching your channel for years and that is what has inspired me to finally buy a 3D printer hahahah. I look forward to part 5 one day!
Yes everything was in PLA. When I started the project I was still nursing a very small printer with a non-heated bed so warping was a huge problem and I ended up having to scrap my first attempt at the body framework, but PLA should be fine generally speaking (assuming it won’t be subjected to high temperatures)
@@MightyJabbasCollection perfect thank you! I've ordered a Creality Ender-3 Max 3D Printer which has a heated bed so hoping I won't have the same warping issues. Can't wait to start this long project
Amazing ! Awesome work, wonderful! Impressive, very impressive! I'm a STAR WARS fan and now I'm your fan too,,, I would really like to know if with this machine printer Creality 3D Printer - cr 10 V2 Printing area: 300 x 300 x 400mm would you be able to print the 3P0 in natural size, life size? Ow! In time... Im Brazilian!
@@MightyJabbasCollection cool, only just found your channel and ive really enjoyed the 3d printed stuff especially this and the life size jabba so would love to see them finished
I cant' find the part you are holding in 11:22' to connect at the rear the upper and lower vents. Maybe the creator has forgotten to upload them. Is it possible to send the file to my mail? Thanx
I'm not sure that the parts would fit together properly if you scaled them that far down. I think there are probably other R2 models made for smaller scales that would work better (and they'd take a lot less time since you wouldn't have to print each part individually).
Mighty Jabba's Collection a lot of the more accurate ones have been ordered to be taken down by Disney because of their likeness to the new ones they’re producing. It was just a thought, thanks for the help though
hey mighty jabba, do you have stl for the part youre holding 11:24. i cant find in one drive files. any help greatly appreciated. thanx for the videos!
Matthew Murphy I do have it but I think maybe this part has been replaced with a different design since I made it. Do you not see anything similar in the files?
That part is made up of 4 parts: FrontVentA.stl, FrontVentB.stl, FrontVentBrack.setl (which are in the "Greebles" folder) and VentPanel.stl (which is the MainFrame folder).
lol the bracket one is missing, ive got other three parts the upper and lower vents (in greebles) and the vent panel which is in main frame onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21APA5Cxi7TQXSqMw&id=E84CB8FD47152532%2124233&cid=E84CB8FD47152532
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10 with dual z axis motors. The z axis goes up and down when homing but will not go up when printing. Is it the machine or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
i have a couple of questions: how much kilograms of filament did it take you to make the full R2-D2(without the failed prints), can you add elektronics and where is part 5
CollinandMason To clarify, the filler primer isn’t really capable of filling in deep print lines like I had on its own - at least not without a lot more sanding than I wanted to do. So I used the putty first and then finished up with the primer on top.
No, I haven't. I have done quite a bit more than I've shown in videos but unfortunately I'm still kind of stuck in terms of motivating myself to finish it. I do plan to finish "eventually"
I just watched parts 1 - 3. Very nice work. But I noticed in part 1 you said PLA can't be solvent welded. That's not true. If you use the right solvent. If you use solvent made for plastic models, styrene solvent, it works perfectly fine on PLA. Keep up the good work though. Just subbed.
Welcome to the channel! I think I said PLA can't be acetone welded, which I think is true. But when I was putting together parts of the legs, I did actually try using some Weld-On adhesive for acrylics because it was recommended to me. It basically works by melting the PLA, so that may be what you're talking about. One issue is that it doesn't fill gaps at all, so I ended up going back to glue.
Yep, all true and valid points. Usually I solvent weld parts together and then fill in gaps with auto body filler. Epoxy is nice for larger joints, as long as the mating surfaces are properly sanded and cleaned, but for smaller parts, I prefer solvent, just because it saves the time of mixing epoxy, and I know the joint won't (shouldn't) fail. But, I love what you are doing here, don't know why I haven't found your channel sooner. And I also really enjoy James Brutons videos as well. Neat stuff.
Plastruct Bondene. It's at my local hobby shop, but it's about $6 for a 1oz bottle. I bought a case of 2oz bottles on eBay for about $40, so I saved a lot there. I also was told that styrene resen thinner would work. I just bought a 1qt can of that from West Marine for $17. Haven't tried it yet, but a friend of mine will put a little bit of that on a rag and rub his PLA prints with it, and it smooths it like ABS in an acetone vapor bath. The styrene thinner is extremely toxic though. Use a respirator and gloves. Hope this helps.
Hello, this is just amazing. Building your own R2D2 is a dream come true for me. I'm in the process of finishing the Dome ver.1. MRBADDELEY said it should be compatible with the Body Ver.2 with simple modifications. Did you change anything with your Dome? Again, great work!
rosebuddesign635 I didn’t change anything but I also haven’t attached it to the body in the way you would want to if you were to have an animatronic droid, so some modifications may be required.
Hey great work man. I love the persistence starting with a new design. Have you considered doing a BB-8? I wonder if there are any prints ready to go for for that one. Considering it is just two spheres you might think it would be easy. I bet not. ALSO, if you don't mind me asking, what were your expenses on PLA material when all done and said, not including the first try at the frame? I kinda would like to know what the costs are going in on a project like this. Thanks for the video and the good editing job. I'm going to subscribe in hopes you complete the 'roller feet' part of R2's mobility drives.
A lot of people have done printed BB8s so yes I would consider it. He does seem a lot easier than R2, although I'm sure he presents his own challenges. I didn't really keep track of my expenses, but I will say that filament has come down in price a lot even since I started, so it's really not that expensive all things considered. You can get decent PLA for under $15 a kilogram now.
Mighty Jabba's, thanks for the quick reply. When all was done and said how many feet of PLA did it take to print your R2? So I might get an idea on how much to set aside... thanks again!
Great project. Are all the bits chopped to fit a 20x20x20cm build volume? I need a big project like this. Can I also ask how much filament you went through?
I think 20 x 20 x 20 would probably work fine. I printed the majority of the pieces on a printer with a 230 mm x 150 mm x 140 mm bed, but there were a few pieces that didn't fit. But of course you can always split a few pieces up if necessary. I didn't really keep track of how much filament I used, I'm afraid.
I know you made this video years ago, but I'm having trouble finding the files you used for the body. I went to the site and found all the files, but he has many and they are not labeled the best. Any help or direction would be appreciated.
I’m not sure exactly how to help, but I’d consider becoming one of his patrons on Patreon if you plan to print the whole thing, or at least look for the Facebook group they have. That will give you access to the latest files and allow you to ask people in the community for help
@@MightyJabbasCollection Just wanted to let you know that I found all the files I was looking for and I'm getting ready to start. I hope you have a follow up video on your R2. I know I'm late to "the club," but I'm getting really excited to start. Keep up the great videos.
How many tubes of the glazing putty did you go through for the entire body? It's $9 per tube, so trying to figure out if you found a larger quantity sold or just bought X tubes. Thanks!
How warm are you talking about? I wouldn't leave him in a hot car, but he was in my garage for months with no apparent problems (the only warping I saw occurred during the printing process). I think he'll be just fine sitting in my air conditioned office.
Well, I got delayed for a long time, but I recently decided to finally try and figure out some of the problems I was having. I've done some printing for the first time in quite a while and am hopeful that I may be able to finally make some progress soon.
Looking cool. Was wondering what program was used in the video to show the 3D model of the body frame, as I can't get the individual files to load in place in Meshmixer. Thanks and keep up the good work
I think you're talking about Autodesk 123D Design. The designer made the design files available for download, so that's what I used to show the model (and it's good because it can sometimes be hard to know how parts fit together without seeing them in place).
Thanks. I really appreciate it. I tried getting the files - there's a lot - and they occasionally loaded misaligned in Meshmixer even though I asked it not to fix alignment.
Just to be clear, you don't load the STLs into 123D Design. You need to download the .123dx files for the section in question (like "Dome.123dx") and open that in the program
Cool. Sadly it seems 123D Design has been discontinued. I just wanted to try and load up all the pieces and try and print them grouped into the major parts of the design - body, legs and dome separately in a smaller scale, but since not all individual models line up together that will be difficult. Thanks for all your help and can't wait to see you finish that awesome piece. :)
You might try messaging the designer since I don't really know a lot about the program. As for scaling it down, I think he made a quarter scale dome at one point. Not sure about the rest
Sorry for the lack of progress/updates on this. I had intended to finish it by the end of last year, but ran into issues. I do have both legs printed and more or less ready for painting and assembly, but I still need to figure out how to adapt the foot design that was intended for a moving R2 into one that will work for a statue. I do still intend to finish this, but I won't be able to paint until the weather warms up in any case.
@@MightyJabbasCollection Ok sounds good cannot wait to see the next update ... Also if you could help me i would be very Grateful ... I am trying to build a scale replica of R0-4L0 out of Cardboard ... YES CRAZY ") ... and i am having so much trouble trying to find Measurements by inches ... I've been using everything R2-D2 i can find but nothing ever shows me Inch Measurements ... If you find the time can you please please Measure the Legs of your R2-D2 by inches ... i already have the foot ... i just need from the shoulder to ankle ... i got 4 inches width from the side & 2 inches front ... but that doesn't seem right at all ...
@@MightyJabbasCollection want to say i was new to the build i have everything now got most of the body printed been working on the dome sanding and painting thank you
@@MightyJabbasCollection nice job on the R2 body - you can use the MKIII legs and feet, so long as they fit on the printer. Would be great to see you finish the project! It looks good.
I HATE cone paint nozzles on spray paint, sure, it works great if you're tagging a building, not so great when you're trying to evenly paint a surface.
I used the Dremel 3D Idea Builder for most of it. It's a good printer, but not really suited to this kind of printing, so I got the warping issues that I mentioned. Now that I have multiple CR-10s at my disposal, I will be using those moving forward, and that is what I would recommend
Fanatic It’s really hard to say because I ended up scrapping some pieces and I didn’t keep records of how much things cost. Filament prices have also dropped dramatically since I started this. I just bought some reasonably good filament for around $10 a kilogram. If I were to start now I could probably do it for under $300, but that’s just a guess.
Fanatic Yes, provided you are willing to put the time into learning how to use it. Of course if you want to spend a lot more there are better printers available, but they can be many times as expensive.The CR-10 also has a large community of users, which is important.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Im like a kid waiting for Christmas with this R2 building series. I really cant wait for the day that this project is finished. Keep up the great work :)
This looks incredible!
Restraining Bolt is a terrific touch
Four amazing episodes of a great creation. Then he legged it =D
NICE!!! I'm looking forward to seeing the next step. :)
I salute your patience and determination!
Thank you for your dedication to this project. It has given me the drive to start one myself. I have completed the dome and now about half way through the body and it is looking pretty darn good for a home made 3d printer. That being said, your R2 looks awesome and again, thank you for sharing.
That's good to hear! Good luck with your R2.
he really looks awesome good job
I have enjoyed your videos, and i 2 am looking forward to a part 5 of you r2 build
im like you i just want my r2 to just be chilling im printing now so in about a year lol hopefully ill be done and yours looks great ty for the help
Holy Flip Flop! that bot looks amazin' so far!
Good for you! Fight the good fight, Keep going!
Awesome job! You were my inspiration to start this project myself. I am currently working on the dome.
Awesome build, well done! If I ever get around to doing an R2 build, I think I'll use a combination of traditional methods and 3D printing (especially for things like vents and coin slots).
Looks absolute Cool
awesome update on the r2-d2 unit. also love that it was printed on the dremel idea maker.
It is looking amazing!!! Awesome job man.
before you weather the R2 unit, remember, they all had at least one day where they were fresh out of the factory without a scratch on him. let him enjoy feeling snazzy before you beat him up!
“3D full-sized R2D2: my journey to Hell”. This should be your title.
Good job.
For run in paint, if you run your fingers over the sticky side of masking tape then lightly press over the run then pull straight out, it will remove the excess paint. This has to be done when you make the paint run so it is still wet and allows the paint left on the model to smooth on its own.
Hope to see more of this project
It seems that Part 4 is the limit of tolerance for your large scale projects. I do hope you get back to them sooner or later. That is a lot of work you put into these so far not to finish them.
I think R2 will be finished this summer. I’m working on it now
@@MightyJabbasCollection Good to hear. I understand it's a ton of work. The sanding alone is not for the faint of heart. :) Sanding filament isn't like sanding wood or styrene.
This video just came up in my "recomended" and i cant belive you only have 3400 Subs! You should have alot more, this is some quality content!
Great video as always.
Really enjoying this project, thanks so much!
It looks great! I’m printing mine now from his v.2 files but am going to make an R6 dome as well as the R2 dome so I can have both BT-1 as well as R2-Q5. I’ve got 3 printers going right now so I’m averaging between 30-45 hours of printing per day because I’m terrible at waiting for things!
Matt Haynes Nice! When I was printing the parts for this I only had one printer so it took a long time, but I’ve wondered how long it would take to print a full droid now that I have several printers at my disposal...
Great video, good job on the project, just one thing, for the blue parts you could have painted them silver, and then came back with duplicolor blue metal cast spray paint over them. It is a candy(translucent blue) and over a solver it really pops in the light, only issue with candies is getting even coats of you will have dark spots, and if you don't paint all of the blue parts at once you can wind up with differing shades of blue
Thanks. I actually tried several approaches for the blue back when I was making the dome, including "blurple" where you start with a purple undercoat, as well as something similar to what you described. But I found that I had trouble getting the look I wanted consistently, so I went with a single color approach
Mighty Jabba's Collection good job either way, one day I'll devote the time to printing an R2, for the time being I need to get started printing my scout trooper armor, if I can get all the bugs worked out of my folgertech ft-5. I've tried several times now to print a large scale death star for a diorama , but the old pla I was using kept breaking part way through the print of just half the death star and I'd wake up to failed print after print...
Mighty Jabba's Collection you may also find this interesting. ruclips.net/video/ilWst2zq-D4/видео.html
Impressive... most impressive!
Excellent work mate ;)
Got my body all done some glued but most of it not finished yet with glue but getting there
For how intricate the 3d model was for the body with all the little parts I wouldn't mind throwing some money his way
Him being Mr. Badeley
Tip for weathering : everyone uses only black, but you should use dark brown and different shades of brown. Black looks a bit too cartoony.
That is my plan. Sort of a Tattooine look.
Great job bro
Awesome build, it came out great! I've been wanting to build something larger like this myself but I feel like my dremel would take forever to spit out parts. I'm definitely eyeing a larger print bead for my next one. If I manage that I think a BB8 may be in my future :P
This was 90% done on a Dremel, so it's not impossible, but yes, it did take a long time. Plus I had issues with warping, as I mentioned. A large, heated bed is really a plus for this kind of thing
I'd love to make one of these but I'm not sure I could dedicate myself to such a large and time consuming project. Excellent work though.
Amazing! :)
Awesome R2-D2. Would you ever consider making another one? It's my dream to have an R2-D2 I would buy one.
As a body guy I have a few tips
The first is with the glazing putty. It appears you use a lacquer based putty. This stuff is garbage and is much more likely to discolor your paint as it ages. It also takes a long time to cure and shrinks a lot.
You want a polyester putty, it's 2 parts and cures much faster and it varies based on the amount of hardener you use(instant to around 30 min). The hardener comes in blue and red, you want blue, especially if your finished color is white as the red can have the same yellowing effect.
amzn.to/2zHYixt The putty
amzn.to/2zv88Sw
Spray can primer is meh, they make better 2 part spray primer that has to be activated, getting a another a airbrush or a more professional setup would be much better, the advantages are it dries harder/faster, your sand paper doesn't gum up as much and it shrinks less.
amzn.to/2ylXuu7
Finally, you should use sanding pads and blocks(dense foam blocks for curved surfaces), allot of your lines and flat surfaces suffered because you had uneven pressure and attention to certain areas due to your fingers.
Better products can cost more but ultimately, you're in for less labor and frustration.
Thanks for the tips. To be honest I'm still a beginner so as I said it's a learning experience for me. But I did actually use a sanding block for much of it -- I just didn't show it on camera.
Thank you love your art work follow you on all the sits
Great work 👍 to weather it try black shoe polish 👍
Let it dry ~30 minutes and than wipe away the most with a sponge and warm water.
Give ita try 😉
I love the AR intro! How the heck do you do that? I like having a big project like this to give a real purpose to 3d printing! Youve earned my sub!
Awesome!
Is there going to be a Part 5?
Nope
Spilled_Milk420 Where did you find out there wasn’t gonna be a part 5?
@@nicksadventures4362 its 2020
@@Chris-lf2li I mean there is still hope, unless he saids otherwise. I’d rather hear this from the creators himself instead of someone else.
@@nicksadventures4362 you do you
Cool video you could design his legs a rod going into R2 and coming out the other end with the legs attached to each end of the rod this would decrease his mobility but he wasn’t exactly the most athletic droid ever unlike the action figures so that might be more realistic
Sorry if you already said it, but did you print the whole body in PLA too? I know you printed the dome in PLA but wasn't sure about the body. I'm hoping to print one too just as a static piece same as yours. I'm really new to 3D printing (only just bought a 3D printer which is arriving next week), so I know it is ambitious but I'd like to take on this project as one of my 3D printing goals. I've been watching your channel for years and that is what has inspired me to finally buy a 3D printer hahahah. I look forward to part 5 one day!
Yes everything was in PLA. When I started the project I was still nursing a very small printer with a non-heated bed so warping was a huge problem and I ended up having to scrap my first attempt at the body framework, but PLA should be fine generally speaking (assuming it won’t be subjected to high temperatures)
@@MightyJabbasCollection perfect thank you! I've ordered a Creality Ender-3 Max 3D Printer which has a heated bed so hoping I won't have the same warping issues. Can't wait to start this long project
awesome! any progress?
Still waiting for part 5.
6 anos e até hj não esta pronto?
Nice!!!
Amazing !
Awesome work, wonderful!
Impressive, very impressive!
I'm a STAR WARS fan and now I'm your fan too,,,
I would really like to know if with this machine printer Creality 3D Printer - cr 10 V2 Printing area: 300 x 300 x 400mm would you be able to print the 3P0 in natural size, life size?
Ow! In time... Im Brazilian!
Yes the CR-10 can do it
@@MightyJabbasCollection Thank you!
thumbs up !!!!!
so... over three years later i'm guessing i should give up hope of there being a part 5? lol
Not necessarily. I do plan to finish it
@@MightyJabbasCollection cool, only just found your channel and ive really enjoyed the 3d printed stuff especially this and the life size jabba so would love to see them finished
Amazing job! Would you mind sharing what color paint you used? also did you clear coat?
I cant' find the part you are holding in 11:22' to connect at the rear the upper and lower vents. Maybe the creator has forgotten to upload them. Is it possible to send the file to my mail? Thanx
kourkoulos I know that he revised the design so that it is different from what I show in the video. Could that be the issue?
Would you recommend doing this same project just scales down? I don’t have room for a full size R2, but I wouldn’t mind a Disney sized one
I'm not sure that the parts would fit together properly if you scaled them that far down. I think there are probably other R2 models made for smaller scales that would work better (and they'd take a lot less time since you wouldn't have to print each part individually).
Mighty Jabba's Collection a lot of the more accurate ones have been ordered to be taken down by Disney because of their likeness to the new ones they’re producing. It was just a thought, thanks for the help though
hey mighty jabba, do you have stl for the part youre holding 11:24. i cant find in one drive files. any help greatly appreciated. thanx for the videos!
Matthew Murphy I do have it but I think maybe this part has been replaced with a different design since I made it. Do you not see anything similar in the files?
ive looked through them all and dont see anything, not with main body parts or with greeblies, and my parts look like yours. weird
That part is made up of 4 parts: FrontVentA.stl, FrontVentB.stl, FrontVentBrack.setl (which are in the "Greebles" folder) and VentPanel.stl (which is the MainFrame folder).
lol the bracket one is missing, ive got other three parts the upper and lower vents (in greebles) and the vent panel which is in main frame onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21APA5Cxi7TQXSqMw&id=E84CB8FD47152532%2124233&cid=E84CB8FD47152532
thanx for your response mighty jabba, michael baddeley says its a different part now in electric mounts folder. thanx again and love your posts!
What bond spot putty did you use ( model number) 801 or 901 looking at Amazon don’t know which to buy. Think you. Great video
It's apparently 907, but I just bought was available at my local store and didn't really have a particular reason for choosing that.
Thank you. Wish you have list on links that you can get Credit on Amazon.
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10 with dual z axis motors. The z axis goes up and down when homing but will not go up when printing. Is it the machine or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
i have a couple of questions: how much kilograms of filament did it take you to make the full R2-D2(without the failed prints), can you add elektronics and where is part 5
the finished project ???
Can you tell me what size print bed you used to print the dome, and how is tallest dome piece?
did you ever think of using a high build primer for filling in the print lines?
CollinandMason That’s what I did
CollinandMason To clarify, the filler primer isn’t really capable of filling in deep print lines like I had on its own - at least not without a lot more sanding than I wanted to do. So I used the putty first and then finished up with the primer on top.
Did you get any further?
Any updates on this project ?
Also , how much filament have you used on it thus far ?
Me 2! Want to see the finished product!
I think there must be more than 10kg used
I think the problem is that you were a little too close when spraying. It gets some time to adjust that .
Toy The Hutt I agree but I was fighting the wind on this day so that was also part of the problem
@Mighty Jabba, Did you ever finish the R2? Im starting my journey following your videos. I would really appreciate help with the legs!
No, I haven't. I have done quite a bit more than I've shown in videos but unfortunately I'm still kind of stuck in terms of motivating myself to finish it. I do plan to finish "eventually"
hey, I had a question when you say weathering what do you mean by that?
Mina Awadalla Making something look like it’s been used, worn or exposed to the elements. So it’s not so clean looking
I just watched parts 1 - 3. Very nice work. But I noticed in part 1 you said PLA can't be solvent welded. That's not true. If you use the right solvent. If you use solvent made for plastic models, styrene solvent, it works perfectly fine on PLA. Keep up the good work though. Just subbed.
Welcome to the channel! I think I said PLA can't be acetone welded, which I think is true. But when I was putting together parts of the legs, I did actually try using some Weld-On adhesive for acrylics because it was recommended to me. It basically works by melting the PLA, so that may be what you're talking about. One issue is that it doesn't fill gaps at all, so I ended up going back to glue.
Yep, all true and valid points. Usually I solvent weld parts together and then fill in gaps with auto body filler. Epoxy is nice for larger joints, as long as the mating surfaces are properly sanded and cleaned, but for smaller parts, I prefer solvent, just because it saves the time of mixing epoxy, and I know the joint won't (shouldn't) fail. But, I love what you are doing here, don't know why I haven't found your channel sooner. And I also really enjoy James Brutons videos as well. Neat stuff.
What product do you actually use for the welding of pla?
Plastruct Bondene. It's at my local hobby shop, but it's about $6 for a 1oz bottle. I bought a case of 2oz bottles on eBay for about $40, so I saved a lot there. I also was told that styrene resen thinner would work. I just bought a 1qt can of that from West Marine for $17. Haven't tried it yet, but a friend of mine will put a little bit of that on a rag and rub his PLA prints with it, and it smooths it like ABS in an acetone vapor bath. The styrene thinner is extremely toxic though. Use a respirator and gloves. Hope this helps.
Also, if you dissolve some scrap PLA into some solvent to make a paste, you can weld parts together and fill gaps at the same time.
Are these files available for download? This is awesome
Hello, this is just amazing. Building your own R2D2 is a dream come true for me. I'm in the process of finishing the Dome ver.1. MRBADDELEY said it should be compatible with the Body Ver.2 with simple modifications. Did you change anything with your Dome? Again, great work!
rosebuddesign635 I didn’t change anything but I also haven’t attached it to the body in the way you would want to if you were to have an animatronic droid, so some modifications may be required.
Thanks for the fast response. So basically if I just want to stick it to the body there are no issues?
rosebuddesign635 Yeah, I think so. At least it seemed okay to me
OK cool thanks! :)
Hey great work man. I love the persistence starting with a new design. Have you considered doing a BB-8? I wonder if there are any prints ready to go for for that one. Considering it is just two spheres you might think it would be easy. I bet not. ALSO, if you don't mind me asking, what were your expenses on PLA material when all done and said, not including the first try at the frame? I kinda would like to know what the costs are going in on a project like this. Thanks for the video and the good editing job. I'm going to subscribe in hopes you complete the 'roller feet' part of R2's mobility drives.
A lot of people have done printed BB8s so yes I would consider it. He does seem a lot easier than R2, although I'm sure he presents his own challenges. I didn't really keep track of my expenses, but I will say that filament has come down in price a lot even since I started, so it's really not that expensive all things considered. You can get decent PLA for under $15 a kilogram now.
Mighty Jabba's, thanks for the quick reply. When all was done and said how many feet of PLA did it take to print your R2? So I might get an idea on how much to set aside... thanks again!
Great project. Are all the bits chopped to fit a 20x20x20cm build volume? I need a big project like this. Can I also ask how much filament you went through?
I think 20 x 20 x 20 would probably work fine. I printed the majority of the pieces on a printer with a 230 mm x 150 mm x 140 mm bed, but there were a few pieces that didn't fit. But of course you can always split a few pieces up if necessary. I didn't really keep track of how much filament I used, I'm afraid.
Hey! What happened with this R2D2 project? Did you finish it? It has been more than three years since the last update
It’s been on hold, but I do plan to finish it
I know you made this video years ago, but I'm having trouble finding the files you used for the body. I went to the site and found all the files, but he has many and they are not labeled the best. Any help or direction would be appreciated.
I’m not sure exactly how to help, but I’d consider becoming one of his patrons on Patreon if you plan to print the whole thing, or at least look for the Facebook group they have. That will give you access to the latest files and allow you to ask people in the community for help
@@MightyJabbasCollection Just wanted to let you know that I found all the files I was looking for and I'm getting ready to start. I hope you have a follow up video on your R2. I know I'm late to "the club," but I'm getting really excited to start. Keep up the great videos.
Quick question: did you add hardener to the spot putty before applying? Nice job on this video series by the way. Thanks...
The spot putty just air cures without the need for a hardener like you use with Bondo, so no.
Mighty Jabba's Collection Thank you!
How many tubes of the glazing putty did you go through for the entire body? It's $9 per tube, so trying to figure out if you found a larger quantity sold or just bought X tubes. Thanks!
I don't recall exactly, but I think it was like 2-3 tubes.
Have you exposed your PLA prints to any warm temperatures? Most people I tlak to seem to think warping will be a certainty...
How warm are you talking about? I wouldn't leave him in a hot car, but he was in my garage for months with no apparent problems (the only warping I saw occurred during the printing process). I think he'll be just fine sitting in my air conditioned office.
You do not have to rough up both sides while using BS glue on pla
How much infill did you use and layers
seems to have enough room inside to build it intoo a desktop computer or even an mp3 jukebox
I'd pay premium for a R2D2 PC! Wouldn't think twice!
Any update on the droid?
Well, I got delayed for a long time, but I recently decided to finally try and figure out some of the problems I was having. I've done some printing for the first time in quite a while and am hopeful that I may be able to finally make some progress soon.
Cool. I got an Ender 3 last month and I'm looking forward to making one and the Rancor skull (a big one like you did).
Looking cool. Was wondering what program was used in the video to show the 3D model of the body frame, as I can't get the individual files to load in place in Meshmixer. Thanks and keep up the good work
I think you're talking about Autodesk 123D Design. The designer made the design files available for download, so that's what I used to show the model (and it's good because it can sometimes be hard to know how parts fit together without seeing them in place).
Thanks. I really appreciate it. I tried getting the files - there's a lot - and they occasionally loaded misaligned in Meshmixer even though I asked it not to fix alignment.
Just to be clear, you don't load the STLs into 123D Design. You need to download the .123dx files for the section in question (like "Dome.123dx") and open that in the program
Cool. Sadly it seems 123D Design has been discontinued. I just wanted to try and load up all the pieces and try and print them grouped into the major parts of the design - body, legs and dome separately in a smaller scale, but since not all individual models line up together that will be difficult. Thanks for all your help and can't wait to see you finish that awesome piece. :)
You might try messaging the designer since I don't really know a lot about the program. As for scaling it down, I think he made a quarter scale dome at one point. Not sure about the rest
So ... What's up with the R2-D2? Did you end up finishing it? Weathering the Paint? PLEASE UPDATE US ")
Sorry for the lack of progress/updates on this. I had intended to finish it by the end of last year, but ran into issues. I do have both legs printed and more or less ready for painting and assembly, but I still need to figure out how to adapt the foot design that was intended for a moving R2 into one that will work for a statue. I do still intend to finish this, but I won't be able to paint until the weather warms up in any case.
@@MightyJabbasCollection Ok sounds good cannot wait to see the next update ... Also if you could help me i would be very Grateful ... I am trying to build a scale replica of R0-4L0 out of Cardboard ... YES CRAZY ") ... and i am having so much trouble trying to find Measurements by inches ... I've been using everything R2-D2 i can find but nothing ever shows me Inch Measurements ... If you find the time can you please please Measure the Legs of your R2-D2 by inches ... i already have the foot ... i just need from the shoulder to ankle ... i got 4 inches width from the side & 2 inches front ... but that doesn't seem right at all ...
Can you share the file? Where can I get it? Thanks
what type of paint did you use for the chrome on the dome?
new update?
It has room for Kenny Baker
WHen you will add legs??
Are the legs done yet?
I haven't done anything on them recently. I will restart the project when I am able to work in the garage comfortably
im a patron to mr baddley i cant find the codes to this any help would be great ty
What do you mean by codes?
@@MightyJabbasCollection the files g codes
If you’re a patron he should have info about where to download everything on his Patreon page
@@MightyJabbasCollection want to say i was new to the build i have everything now got most of the body printed been working on the dome sanding and painting thank you
What size CR-10? And I went thingiverse, the website was down.
The regular CR-10 is big enough for all of the pieces, as far as I know. Thingiverse seems to be fine right now.
Blue Pearl over silver paint. The Blue Pearl should candy coat the silver.
PLA warping, try putting the piece in HOT water then it becomes more Flexible.
Do It... Please finish R2.
Did u finish R2D2?
Not as of yet…
@@MightyJabbasCollection ok well keep going 👍
@@MightyJabbasCollection nice job on the R2 body - you can use the MKIII legs and feet, so long as they fit on the printer. Would be great to see you finish the project! It looks good.
Can we get an update soon? I'm sure you've made some progress by now.
lol, All his life size stuff gets to episode 4 and never is heard from again after taking a "short" break, It might be broken lol
I HATE cone paint nozzles on spray paint, sure, it works great if you're tagging a building, not so great when you're trying to evenly paint a surface.
Question what Kind of printer did you use
I used the Dremel 3D Idea Builder for most of it. It's a good printer, but not really suited to this kind of printing, so I got the warping issues that I mentioned. Now that I have multiple CR-10s at my disposal, I will be using those moving forward, and that is what I would recommend
Can you estimate the total cost of the project?
Fanatic It’s really hard to say because I ended up scrapping some pieces and I didn’t keep records of how much things cost. Filament prices have also dropped dramatically since I started this. I just bought some reasonably good filament for around $10 a kilogram. If I were to start now I could probably do it for under $300, but that’s just a guess.
Mighty Jabba's Collection and you still recommend the CR10? for star wars prop building
Fanatic Yes, provided you are willing to put the time into learning how to use it. Of course if you want to spend a lot more there are better printers available, but they can be many times as expensive.The CR-10 also has a large community of users, which is important.
Mighty Jabba's Collection Yea I realy want to get into printing helmets, and maybe even an R2
Would you tecomend the standard size CR10?