Now, see You Tube people, THIS is how you make an instructional video! This guy did not waste my time with a flashy 2 to 3 minute opening scene with blaring music and flashing lights, yes, we all know it can be done and literally no one has time for it. He uses a good mic, a steady tripod, keeps things in focus, sets up ahead of time and has planned out what he is going to do and say before he hits the record button. This is one of the best I have seen and as a guy who is looking for a battery operated chain saw, I appreciate the effort that went into making this. Congratulations on a well made video and the tips on the chain saw.
Yes yes, I hate those long noisey intros, I use to automaticly give a "dislike" to those videos that do that but now all I can do is give those that skip that crap and give ones like this one a "LIKE". As for the O-ring you can get thiner O-rings, its not really a good idea to stretch them out like that, but come on! why would Dewalt not put one in there to begin with?
O ring does not stop oil leak. There's actually an o ring rubber washer thing inside on the oil tank that seals the cap. The leak comes from other parts on the oil tank itself. You need to open it up
I was very interested to learn that so many other people are having an oil leak on their DeWalt chainsaw. I was leaving my saw on it's side with the oil port facing upward to deal with the problem. Now there's a video with a solution ... Hallelujah! To make things even more interesting I took my oil port plug to Ace Hardware and found the exact O-ring that fits my saw. Ace Hardware part no. 02-1538P and it only costs $0.85 plus tax. The package description says: #40 3/4 x 7/8 x 1/16 R-59 (BG). Ace is the place!! The rack of washers is in the "Faucet Department".
I see everyone is worried about the chain oil leaking out of the fill cap. I have used this saw overlanding for two years and never had that problem. I just don't fill it to the brim. This saw has a "gravity feed" lubrication system. If you fill it up and let it set, all the oil will eventually drip out - there's no way to stop it other than draining out the excess bar oil when finished cutting. Just like the manual recommends. If you aren't sure how much cutting you're gonna do, don't fill the reservoir all the way up. When I'm finished cutting, I drain the excess oil and let it set on an oil-absorbing towel overnight before storing it away in my truck. I pack it away in a small gym bag. I keep fresh oil-absorbing towels in the bottom of the bag just to make sure no oil ends up in my rig.
What a huge waste of oil and a big mess to deal with. Dewalt should solve this problem. The o-ring solution did not work for me. having to just add a little oil at a time so you don't have to deal with the wasted oil is a pain and great for the environment if everybody that did not completely use up all the oil in their chainsaw just dumped it in the trash soaked up in oily paper towels. This is not how chain saws are supposed to work.
You need to seal the collar that is mounted to the tank that the fill plug seals on. The plug seals to an o-ring already on the collar, but there is no gasket between collar and tank. @@pettigrewwoodworks
Great video. I just got my DEWALT 20V Chainsaw and took it out of the box, bought a Danco #11 "O" ring3/4"OD x 9/16" ID stock # 35728 B and it works perfectly. Oil stays in the DEWALT 20V Chainsaw. I will upgrade the bar and chain when this one wears out. Excellent video with good advice. 👍
First, getting that stopper out is tricky for sure! Ended up using a long tweezers about 5" long and grabbed one end of the black plastic. More importantly, once the O-ring (I tried two different thicknesses) is on the lid, it would not lock! I'm guessing DeWalt designer specified the ring groove but the test engineer discovered what I discovered. So never mind...
I have done a similar upgrade to a 14" bar and chain, but used the .043" chain rather than the .050" chain. This is the same width chain as the original 12" chain. This puts less strain on the motor, as it is having to remove less material than the .050" chain. It also creates less sawdust! It certainly makes the saw more useful! The Oregon part numbers are Chain 90PX052E and Bar 144MLEA041. In the UK they do not seem to be available as a set, so you have to buy them seperately
Just to be clear: kerf size (narrow or regular) is different from gauge (.043" or .050"). From what I understand 3/8" low profile is NARROW kerf, the "low profile" designates narrow kerf. Kerf is the size of the cut in the wood, gauge is the size of the groove in the bar that the chain runs in.
@@CascadesHomestead Are you sure? pretty sure it means the cutters are shorter in height. The kerf, being the width of the cutting faces, should be the same as a standard 3/8 pitch.
Yea I'd really like to know how to fix the oil leaking out when it's stored (I store it flat/bar neutral not vertical) so it really shouldn't be leaking.
Same here! Danco #12 13/16" x 5/8 I.D. fits like the part they forgot to add in the build spec! Stock # 35729 B. For anyone else who's wondering I weighed the factory bar and chain and the 14" bar and chain (in the affiliate link to support @Seattle Retro Guy) in new condition (the Oregon chain had more factory oil coating than the DeWalt, both purchased from the Amazon): Dewalt 12" bar - 13.3oz Dewalt chain - 4.1oz Oregon 14" bar - 16.8oz Oregon chain - 5.7oz Total difference = +5.1oz (a touch more than the weight of a D battery) If anyone wants to send me a new 16" Oregon bar and chain linked in the description I'll weigh it for you in exchange. 😆
The 16" flexvolt bar fits on the 20v saw perfect. Also an 18" poulan pro Oregon bar fits on the flexvolt saw perfect. I have both saws and love them as well!
With the 16" bar my saw struggles a bit in very hard wood (white oak and big leaf maple), the softer hard woods like red alder and cottonwood are fine. I'm curious: how is your 18" bar doing with the really tough stuff, still enough power?
@@CadillacZachOffical Oh I see. Yes, the 60V saw might be a future upgrade. Still a bit pricey for my taste and our Stihls are great for "the big stuff". But we LOVE the 60V trimmer, it's awesome!
@@CascadesHomestead life hack, I got my 60v off Ebay, look for the "open box" deals 😉. My 20v came from Ebay too but it was straight up used.... not a problem with either one. Paid about half MSRP for them.
I just got one of these saws for Christmas, and I'm loving it. My only real complaint is the thumb safety for the trigger. I MUCH prefer a traditional palm safety like you find on a gas powered saw. I'd love to come up with a way to lock the thumb safety in, so I don't have to worry about it when running the saw.
Yup, just make sure the cap goes in easy, many of the o-rings are too fat, don't force the cap in. That's why I'm using a smaller o-ring and stretch it.
Great video only thing I would add is remove the battery from the tool before changing blades or bars ect just in case you bump the trigger I know it has a bump switch ect but it’s a good practice to power down any tool before maintenance
Thank you!!! used a metal wire to pull #12 danco 5/8th O ring(bit of a pain to get it in the upper groove otherwise). Tried a bigger one 3/4 but since its thicker, oil cap would not close.
Awesome video. I have other DeWalt tools and was considering the chainsaw... then got concerned with the oil leak complaints. Great explanation of how to fix, as well as benefits of the longer bar. Ordering the chainsaw now. Thank you!
That's what I was concerned about,the oil leak.I figured that it just needed an O-ring.I'm thinking about getting one for small jobs around the house.I'll use my gas chainsaw if I need to cut anything big.
I haven't had one for very long, but in my limited experience, the oil leak only seems to be an issue if you fill the tank to over-flowing. Fill it 4/5's full, and you might not have an issue.
Hi, did just what you said ans used 3/8 o -ring. Got a cheap tool bag at Harber Frught , $10.00 . Cut a slit for the blade to stick out and fits perfict. THANKS for the info.
Great, easy fix for the oil leak! I'm about to get one of these same saws and I was a bit concerned about the notorious oil leak these things are known for. I always have an O-ring kit on hand so I'll have everything necessary to do the mod right out of the box!
Some people suggest that the motor will “WEAR” more with a more torque demanding bar but it is more an issue of the electrical heating of the motor and drive circuit (where the heating can also effect the motor bearings). A large 60 volt battery on a 20 volt saw will allow one to cut much longer, BUT electrical heating is something that should be monitored. Generally a 60 v battery will keep a higher voltage for longer preventing cutout / stalling which seems to “maybe” keep the saw a little bit less hot (at least that is an observation, as a kinda general rule on electric motors is that as the voltage drops the current increases (at constant torque demand) and it is the current that causes the heating, but these are brushless DC motors [ which are actually AC motors, as are all electrical motors ] with an “intelligent” drive circuit electronics that seem to monitors various parameters, maybe). Heating is a complicated issue that should always be monitored, at every battery change I blow all of the wood chips and dust out of the cooling vents and battery contacts with one of those cans of “air”, which is a bit expensive and their maybe a less costly way to clean (also it doesn’t hurt to blow the wood chips out of the sprocket cover at each battery change if it clogs up with oily chips). Also it helps to blow the dirt away from the oil filling cap prior to opening it up to refill so to keep the reservoir as clean as possible. Keep the chain sharp and don’t push it too hard will keep the torque demand lower and greatly help with the electrical heating which is the biggest issue.
Bought one of these on sale for $196 thought it would be perfect for the kind of work I need to do (bushes,very small trees and large weeds) It started leaking all over my truck the day I filled it up. The bar oil reservoir doesn’t even have a max fill line and it just needs a little more power. I used a coworkers 60v battery and it seemed to help a lot more regardless of battery life. Debating on if I should return it for a new one to modify or make the right choice and buy a MAKITA😂
For the oil leak: WHERE is the saw leaking from? If it's from the oil reservoir cap - easy fix, add the o-ring. If it's from the bottom of the saw when it's sitting then yeah, harder fix, disassembly required. I'll add a video soon. I like the saw, we have two of em, tireless little boogers, they just keep going and going...
@@CascadesHomestead The bottom unfortunately but it’s great to see how easy of a fix the oil reservoir cap is. Seems like they designed it to prevent leaking but said fuck it last minute.
I wonder why DeWalt didn't place an o-ring in the groove to begin with. Everyone says they leak. No kidding! I agree with Douglas Sykes. This is how to make a video.
Adding the longer bar is okay if this is your only saw. I have two real chainsaws (Stihls) with 16 and 18 inch bars that give me everything I need for harvesting firewood out of our woods. I’m going to buy the Dewalt for trimming, cutting kindling, etc. Trying to decide between the 8 and 12 inch bar units.
This video solved the leaking oil issue instantly. Thank you so much! Amazing that there was that grove in the cap. Why couldn't they just copy stihl? Mine never leaks. Any way thank you for the o ring fix, and the recommendation for a longer bar. I will try out the 16" I use this saw for limbing logs. Won't have to bend over as far!
@@CascadesHomestead Definitely! Only fir and pine in my area. And really the saw is just for limming trees that we will be cutting up for firewood. It's just so handy because my wife doesn't have to worry about starting a gas saw every few minutes and such.
Depends: do a quick test, wipe it all clean and then check where the oil is coming from. If from the filler cap - yes, the o-ring helps. If it's from the bottom of the saw just sitting then yeah, disassembly required. A bit of work but not too bad for DIY folks. We have two of these 12" saws (with 14" bars), one just leaked from the cap, easy fix. I had to take the other one apart, will put up a video soon.
Since I cut a variety of soft and hardwoods the 14" bar works great. At times I've been using this saw for hours straight (with the big FlexVolt batteries) and it has held up really well. Make sure you chains are sharp and don't forget to top of the bar oil.
I maybe so if sawing none stop. You always need to stop to pile brush or pile wood. The longer bar will make deliming easier and save your back. I will do the 16" bar conversion on the DeWalt. Backup plan is a Husquvarna # 51 2 smoker.
The one I have works fine. I am wondering if the non sealing cap is the air intake so the tank doesnt get a vaccum lock and toast the bar from no oil and possibly take out the pump. As it is, the oil tank is not completely out when the battery gets low which is a great design from not starving the bar from oil. Great video BTW. Clear and concise with out the usual BS thrown in.
Thanks for trying, but the O-ring was not the cause of my oil leak problem. I tried your solution and it didn't help. One problem (see Pepper Moon Garage video) is leaking along junctures of the the molded parts of the oil tank - that fix is watchmaker complex. Another cause may be overfilling by the user (guilty) and the excess oil seeps out the bottom after a delay.
Yeah, this saw has THREE areas where it leaks oil :( We have two of these saws and one was scenario 1, one was scenario 2 and both were scenario 3 1) from the filler cap, easy fix with the o-ring 2) from the tank, easy fix with sealant but requires complete disassembly, sort of painful 3) from the oiler hole, no fix really, we just store it laying on the oil cap, that helps LOTS of leaks in this saw... It's such an awesome tool, now if DeWalt could only do a bit more engineering and fix the leaks :D
Hi Jake, yes the hole for the chain oiler leaks as well but if you store the saw flat on the ground the chain oiler won't leak much. On our two DeWalts most of the oil leaked from the cap, with the o-rings those leaks stopped.
Just got the saw in 2023....dewalt still hasn't put in a rubber O ring? LOL. I had a big set of O rings from Harbor freight for about $10 ...found the right size, done.
Not true. A quick Google search shows many pissed off people about this issue. I store it flat (bar neutral/not vertical) and still come back to a puddle
I've had the saw for a year and have never had the oil cap leak. The only leak I see is from the actual place where the oil contacts the bar. I just store on side, as you mentioned, and no issue.
Really Enjoyed your video, I just bought my New Dewalt saw in fact it arrived today . I have not even removed it from the box. I purchased mine for ATVing . Don't want to be stuck on a trail when a tree decides to block my way. I guess my question is I'm trying to stay with a smaller blade due to room to store it on my ATV and was deciding on if I should still get the 14" blade as a upgrade. I think the 16 might be over kill for me and defeat the purpose of the smaller lighter saw for trail riding. Any advice? But also don't want to bring a saw that's not going to do the job. Basically only bought the saw for that occasional fallen tree or some fire would to get me thru the night.
I think the 14" bar should be fine and it works on all types of wood, soft and hard. The 16" bogs down in the hard stuff plus it's bigger. I think for size on the ATV the 14" would be better as well! Good luck! Just make sure your battery/batteries are charged! :)
Why do you say that the 16 doesn't work in hardwood? Surely 4 inches of hardwood is much the same on all 3 bars with the only minor difference being a little more friction on the longer bars? I assume you mean "when used to maximum capacity"?
I've used the saw with a 16" bar in hardwood and it does work in many of them. But it did stall out in Garry Oak for example, it's just to match for a motor that was designed for a 12" bar. Alder (hardwood but fairly soft) is fine, so I think it depends what kind of hardwood you're cutting.
Don't want to be the one but there is some bad info here sorry. That o ring can't help open it up you'll see and look at the line up for the bar oil from saw to bar. If you don't mind replacing the bar on the regular and chain go for it. If I didn't check it I wouldn't say it.
Good useful video. I have the same saw and noticed when it cuts it leaves splintering on the wood as it finishes the cut but the chain is new and sharp from the factory. Is this normal?
Hi Matt, I assume you're using a cross-cut chain for making cross-cuts, right? They will never be super smooth but it shouldn't leave big splinters either. Is the chain unevenly sharpened, does the saw pull to one side? I can't talk to the original DeWalt chains much but the Oregon chains are decent, in general they make pretty smooth cuts. If finish quality is important then you can also try to cut a board with the upper part of the chainsaw and away from you (please be super careful about kickback!!!), thus the chain cuts down into the wood and pulls the fibers into the cut. I do that when I need an extra smooth cut, hope that makes sense.
@@CascadesHomestead The chain is straight out the box from the factory and only done a handful of cuts and did this from the off. Haven't even touched the chain. The chain is the oregan one and seems sharp looking at it and not damaged at all. The saw is cutting straight and doesn't seem to pull to one side that I know of. The splinters seem to appear at the base of of the cut
Just curious... if you add a longer bar is there any evidence of motor damage? Im wondering if it has to work harder it does more than just drain the battery faster?
That's a great question Doug! Honestly: I do not know. I've been using these saws on a regular basis with the 14" and 16" bars mostly on softwoods like Hemlock, Red Cedar etc. and the 14" on hardwood Red Alder without any problems. Your mileage may vary, do this at your own risk. One thing to note: DeWalt offers longer bars as well. Always use good bar oil, never run out, keep the chains sharp so your saw doesn't have to work so hard, keep the vents clean of sawdust etc. and never run the saw with the break on.
@@CascadesHomestead Thank you for your quick response... much appreciated... and I will heed your advice....! I'll wait until the warrantee is out before I go experimenting.... thanks again!
if you push on it hard with a longer bar for an extended period of time, it will damage any saws. if the battery drains faster, then the motor is under more load which result in more wear. Just let it revs and don't push too hard with any of the bars.
@@nicolaschampagne8988 Is it the “WEAR” or the electrical heating of the motor and drive circuit. A large 60 volt battery on a 20 volt saw will allow one to cut much longer, BUT electrical heating is something that should be monitored. Generally a 60 v battery will keep a higher voltage for longer preventing cutout / stalling which seems to maybe keep the saw a little bit less hot (at least that is an observation as a kinda general rule on electric motors is that as the voltage drops the current increases and it is the current that causes the heating, but these are brushless DC motors with an “intelligent” drive circuit electronics that seem to monitors various parameters, maybe). Heating is a complicated issue that should always be monitored, at every battery change I blow all of the wood chips and dust out of the cooling vents and battery contacts with one of those cans of “air”, which is a bit expensive and their maybe a less costly way to clean (also it doesn’t hurt to blow the wood chips out of the sprocket cover at each battery change if it clogs up with oily chips).
Do you have more torque or speed with the 60v batterie? I cant find any good info aubout it. Some say it has more "power" with bigger batteries. I like your reviews.
No, but you get longer run time. The 60V FlexVolt on a 20V tool automatically switches to 20V but lasts a lot longer. Plus I like the weight distribution better with a bigger battery, but that's just my preference.
No need to use the DeWalt oil, that stuff is too expensive. I've used Husqvarna X-Guard forever, it's great oil, super tacky and much lower cost. amzn.to/3Wlo5Tc
I had trouble getting the small plastic bar that keeps the oil plug from dropping with a Needle Nose Pliers and one side broke off on one chainsaw. I used a Hemostat to get the Plastic retainer bar out of the other Chainsaw and was much ore successful. Nothing broke. I got several Rubber O-ring In 11/16" and 3/4". The thick 11/16" O-Ring seemed to work the best. The link you posted brings up a 14" Oregon Chainsaw Replacement #27856 with the S52 chain. Is this the correct one for the Dewalt?
Hi GeeZee, yes "Oregon 14-Inch Chainsaw Bar & S52 Chain, Fits Echo, Craftsman, Poulan, Homelite, Makita, Husqvarna, Ryobi and More (27856)" is the right one. Cheers!
Hello, I have followed your advice and bought one of 5/8 and another of 3/4 but with neither I can close the lid. Can you tell me exactly what the thickness should be, thanks
The outside diameter OD needs to be 1"3/16 and the inside diameter ID is 1"1/16 - I had to try a few 5/8 and 3/4 o-rings and once stretched they fit. If you can find a ID 1"1/16 o-ring that's 1/16" thick then that should work as well. Good luck!
Great question! I did just that, got the new DeWalt 60V 20" chainsaw. Great tool! You can see my review here: ruclips.net/video/rIuzovOXvXI/видео.html Keep in mind that it is quite a bit more expensive ;)
appreciate this video but I really don't think that groove seals on anything to the point where this is a fix... most of the leaks are internal on the hoses coming from the pump
I think it's three leaky areas: 1) The cap - I had oil dripping out of there and the o-ring seemed to have stopped that 2) The chain oiler - still leaking slowly, not much but still annoying 3) The oil tank itself - looks like on one of my saws (I have two of them) the hoses connecting the tank to the chain oiler are leaking, I'll have to fix that during the next tear down
Do you know how to make the Dewalt saw oil the bar, mine always runs dry. I have the tank full, I cleaned out the bar and the oil hole, but I don't get any oil.
Hi Chris, the usual culprit is a plugged hole from the chain oiler, a lot of times there is sawdust etc. clogging that up. But it sounds like you already did that. The other culprits are either the oil pump, the oil tube assembly or the oil filter. The filter (part 52) can get clogged or if the filter got lose etc. the oil tube (parts 20 and 21) might get clogged. I've never had a broken/clogged oil pump but I guess it could happen. In order to fix those you'll have to take the whole saw body apart and that's not that easy and it's quite a bit of work. Check if you still have warranty on it and if so let DeWalt deal with it. Parts can be found online, for example: www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/dewalt/chainsaw/dccs620b/chainsaw There is also a video that shows how to take the saw apart, check it out to see if you're up for that :) ruclips.net/video/-yIqluXVleo/видео.html And before you do anything else you may also want to try a thinner oil, fill the oil tank about half, shake it, flush it (pour it out) and see if you can dislodge any debris. You can always test without the bar and chain on, that way it's easy to see if there is oil coming out of the chain oiler hole. And personally I am not a big fan of the "bio oils", they get pretty gummy if you leave the saw sitting for a while. So if you only use the saw sporadically go with the regular bar oils.
Finding the right size is a bit tricky, it can't be too big since the cap still has to fit into the housing, but it also has to be big enough to seal and stop the leaks. Please take another look at the video, especially at 2:18. It took me a few tries to find the right size. Hope that helps!
Ring seems to be holding up well and I'd say 80% of my oil leaks stopped. I think there are also some internal leaks as well, so next time I tear it apart I'll have to look for those as well.
Hi Jac Dee, the part number is Oregon #27856, description is "Oregon Standard Chain and Bar Combo 14 in Bar A041 Tail Mount, S52 Chain, 0.050 Gauge 3/8 in. Low Profile Chain"
Hi John, where is the oil leaking from with your chainsaw? The o-ring should work if it's sized right. The other spot that always leaks a little is the oil hole on the chain side, no fix for that :(
Yeah, we have two saws, one leaked plenty through the oil cap and the o-ring worked. The other one is leaking through in internal tank connections, I'll do an updated video on that soon.
The trigger switch broke on one of the saws which we bought in March of 2018. Easy replacement but required disassembly and was a bit tedious. The second saw never had a problem and both saws get a lot of use. If you register the saw, DeWalt gives 3 years (limited) warranty, my experience with them has been great, especially with stuff that was obviously their fault.
I've read that you should remove the oil from the chainsaw after use to prevent leaks, is this necessary or will the addition of the O-ring take care of this issue?
I don’t remove the oil anymore and with a tight fitting o-ring you won’t see any large leaks. You will still have a little bit of oil coming out of the chain oiler hole (under the drive sprocket cover) on the other side of the saw, but as long as you store the saw upright it won’t leak a ton. Unfortunately there isn’t a fix for that. But the o-ring will fix the majority of the leakage, you will have to experiment a bit with different o-ring sizes, you want a good right fit, small enough to still be able to push in the cap before turning and closing it, big enough to fit snugly into the gap to prevent the leaks. We keep one saw in the trunk during the fall and winter and we have a chainsaw case for that. That way even the small dribbles from the chain oiler won’t mess things up.
After using this chainsaw for a few months I have started to notice that after cutting for a bit the saw stops working and won't start again until I wait for a good 5 or 10 mins. Why is this? Is it overheating or something?
Hi Matt, I suspect it’s the battery overheating. You can test this, when the saw stops pop another battery in and see if it starts up again. I usually have an extra battery around just in case…
@@mattseymour8637 Or it might be too small. I mostly use the 9Ah batteries in the 20V saw. Smaller batteries seem to run hotter. Btw: if it does end up being the saw overheating then make sure the vent holes are free of wood chips etc.
Larger capacity batteries, whether 20V or 60V generally have more (18650?) cells in parallel, therefore "spread the load" better across the internal resistance of the batteries. This makes it less likely to overheat the individual batteries in the pack.
Not many hours on my Dewalt saw and it won't turn on today, tried several batteries. No, I don't have the chain brake on. I'm pissed as I never registered it and can't find a receipt.
Ouch! You should ping their support line or send a message on FB with model and serial number. I’ve had good experiences with ‘after the warranty expired’ service by DeWalt, Bosch and Milwaukee. Doesn’t hurt to ask…
The gasket will stop the leaks from the oil reservoir cap, but it won't do anything about oil leaking from the chain oiler (on the sprocket side). So it depends where your saw is leaking...
So I store my 20v with the oil cap facing up (bar horizontal/ neutral) and the chainsaw still leaks like a mother****. In this position it leaks less than if you stored it with bar vertical (as most people do) where it will dump your oil tank. How does this o-ring replacement help stop leaking when I'm not leaking from the oil cap?
My chainsaw leaked no matter what position I stored it in, including leaking from the oil cap. I added the O-ring (took a bit of trial and error to find one that fit perfectly) and I now store it upright with VERY LITTLE leakage. There is still some oil leaking from the chain oiler hole under the chain cover but it is way better than it was.
@@CascadesHomestead wait... What are you calling upright? Bar is horizontal or vertical? (Sorry I'm new to chainsaw lingo - give it a few months and the woke will start gendering the chainsaw with pronouns.)
@@JoSt5646 Hey, good point! I store it bar vertical, chain brake pointing up, oil cap pointing at me. For me the oil leaks were 10% chain oiler under the sprocket cover and 90% from the cap. With the O-ring the cap leaks are fixed but it's still leaking very slightly from the chain oiler. Ah well, it's way better than it was though, before the O-ring it leaked like a sieve. I also have an old baking tray (thrift store) underneath it, that way the oil doesn't dribble everywhere.
The 20" saw has a MUCH beefier motor and mechanics for sure and I suspect so are the 16" and the 18" saw. By putting on a bigger bar on the 12" saw you might wear it out a bit faster but we had ours for well over three years now and they are still going strong. This is with mostly the 14" bar and with softwoods. Use common sense and don't burn up the saw of course :)
For the 14" Oregon bar the number for the 14" Oregon chain is S52, right here: amzn.to/3kqCmfR For the 16" Oregon bar the number for the 16" Oregon chain is S56, right here: amzn.to/3MKFgbt Please note: these chains do NOT fit the original DeWalt 12" bar!
PPR: the 12" factory chain needs a round 11/64′′ (= 4.5 mm) file for those at a 60-degree angle in cutter direction. Oregon makes these files: amzn.to/3hRBN0p Page 15 of the saw manual has more details, here is the link: www.toolservicenet.com/i/DEWALT/GLOBALBOM/QU/DCCS620B/1/Instruction_Manual/EN/N518512_DCCS620.pdf
Hi,I rather have a problem that oil is leaking from the bottom of the handle. Not from the top or the chain. I already have a 54V saw and there is still a problem with oil leakage. How to solve tsn problem?
@@CascadesHomestead 54V and 60V is the same, 18 and 20V is the same .. Only differnet is title .... It is mainly a business view - a larger number sells better and at the same time an effort to differentiate older batteries (another connector)
@@marikakrskova7789 The voltage difference is a marketing term used in the US and not in Europe as it would be considered false advertising there! The batteries and tools are identical but the lower voltage is the current on voltage while the US voltage is the “float” maximum voltage after full charge and NO current (at least that is how a Dewalt factory rep explained it to me).
WELL, THAT DOESN'T WORK STILL LEAKS OIL. MANUAL SAYS DRAIN THE OIL OUT AFTER USE. I LAID IT DOWN ON IT'S AND STILL LEAKES. TALKED TO REPAIR SHOP FOR DEWALT AND HE SAID DRAIN THE OIL.
Hi Tom, two types of oil leaks: out of the cap (this fix is easy and works) and inside at the oil tank with a bad seal due to rough spots on the plastic. We have two saws, one of them leaked like a fountain out of the cap and the o-ring helped. I had to disassemble the other saw to fix the leak at the oil tank. Kind of a pain but it worked well, I'll do a future video on it.
Hi IoF, white pine should NOT be a problem, that's very soft wood. Is the bar bent in any way or is there tension in the log that pinches the bar? When you cut, is there enough room towards you so the wood chips can be flung out? Is there a lot a resin or gum? I assume you chain is sharp and properly tensioned, right?
Haha the misinformation on these battery powered saws literally makes me laugh. The oil leak is not coming from the cap, changing the o ring won’t do anything. All chainsaws have a chain oiling function, when you use the saw, oil flows through a small hole, onto your bar. And CONTINUES to flow, for probably 20 minutes after you’ve finished using the saw. This is your “ leak “ which is actually a function of the saw. And this is a no brainer, but running a bar that’s too big for the saw, is going to put added strain on the saw, causing it to break a lot faster than you want it to. Or perhaps in the case of an electric saw, cause the batteries to wear out ( not run out of juice. But actually kill the battery ) so much faster. And those batteries are fuckin pricey
if anyone knows anything about motors and dewalt. You would know they installed the lowest price motor that barely met the requirements of the factory bar and chain. Increasing the size, yes does drain the battery fast.. but it also wears out the motor fast. Thus cutting the life of the saw in half. This due to the increase drag of the longer bar and wood in contact with the longer chain.
Hi Richard, I think that's a fair concern. But we had the first of our 20V DCCS620P1 chainsaws for a little over 4 years now, running it for at least 3 1/2 years with the 14" bar and it gets a LOT of use. Our Stihls feel neglected by now :) No issues with the DeWalts so far, YMMV of course. As far as wearing out the motor: these are brushless so the main failure point would be overheating (loss of lubrication in the bearings, coil failure etc.). Use good bar oil, I'm not a fan of the bio-oils, keep the chain sharp and don't abuse the saw. Our second DCCS620P1 is 3 years old, also going strong.
Now, see You Tube people, THIS is how you make an instructional video! This guy did not waste my time with a flashy 2 to 3 minute opening scene with blaring music and flashing lights, yes, we all know it can be done and literally no one has time for it. He uses a good mic, a steady tripod, keeps things in focus, sets up ahead of time and has planned out what he is going to do and say before he hits the record button. This is one of the best I have seen and as a guy who is looking for a battery operated chain saw, I appreciate the effort that went into making this. Congratulations on a well made video and the tips on the chain saw.
Thanks Douglas, I really appreciate that!!
I agree 100%! And no stupid jokes. Everyone (on youtube) thinks they are funny, but they aren't. They are just annoying.
Yes yes, I hate those long noisey intros, I use to automaticly give a "dislike" to those videos that do that but now all I can do is give those that skip that crap and give ones like this one a "LIKE".
As for the O-ring you can get thiner O-rings, its not really a good idea to stretch them out like that, but come on! why would Dewalt not put one in there to begin with?
Hi MW, I looked for thinner O-rings at our local hardware store and online and couldn't really find a good fit, got a link for me? Thanks!
@@CascadesHomestead No links, you'd probably have to buy a whole kit online, but try an auto parts or machine/tool supply shop.
O ring does not stop oil leak. There's actually an o ring rubber washer thing inside on the oil tank that seals the cap. The leak comes from other parts on the oil tank itself. You need to open it up
Yes oil comes out the vents under the square motor cover, not from the oil cap
I was very interested to learn that so many other people are having an oil leak on their DeWalt chainsaw. I was leaving my saw on it's side with the oil port facing upward to deal with the problem. Now there's a video with a solution ... Hallelujah! To make things even more interesting I took my oil port plug to Ace Hardware and found the exact O-ring that fits my saw. Ace Hardware part no. 02-1538P and it only costs $0.85 plus tax. The package description says: #40 3/4 x 7/8 x 1/16 R-59 (BG). Ace is the place!! The rack of washers is in the "Faucet Department".
Several have said that the 3/4 ring was too thick but 5/8 fit perfectly.
I see everyone is worried about the chain oil leaking out of the fill cap. I have used this saw overlanding for two years and never had that problem. I just don't fill it to the brim. This saw has a "gravity feed" lubrication system. If you fill it up and let it set, all the oil will eventually drip out - there's no way to stop it other than draining out the excess bar oil when finished cutting. Just like the manual recommends. If you aren't sure how much cutting you're gonna do, don't fill the reservoir all the way up. When I'm finished cutting, I drain the excess oil and let it set on an oil-absorbing towel overnight before storing it away in my truck. I pack it away in a small gym bag. I keep fresh oil-absorbing towels in the bottom of the bag just to make sure no oil ends up in my rig.
What a huge waste of oil and a big mess to deal with. Dewalt should solve this problem. The o-ring solution did not work for me. having to just add a little oil at a time so you don't have to deal with the wasted oil is a pain and great for the environment if everybody that did not completely use up all the oil in their chainsaw just dumped it in the trash soaked up in oily paper towels. This is not how chain saws are supposed to work.
Agree. Adding the o-ring to the cap doesn't stop it leaking.
You have to open it up to fix the oil leak.. its not gravity fed, there is a tiny oil pump
You need to seal the collar that is mounted to the tank that the fill plug seals on. The plug seals to an o-ring already on the collar, but there is no gasket between collar and tank. @@pettigrewwoodworks
Just did the 14" upgrade with the Oregon bar and chain.... definitely seems like it's going to make this great saw even better 👍👍👍
Awesome! Are you cutting soft or hard woods? I found the 14" bar works great for both but with the 16" bar the saw starts to slow down in hardwood.
@@CascadesHomestead mostly soft woods. We will use it for clearing around our properties and also take it along when car camping/overlanding 👍
Great video. I just got my DEWALT 20V Chainsaw and took it out of the box, bought a Danco #11 "O" ring3/4"OD x 9/16" ID stock # 35728 B and it works perfectly. Oil stays in the DEWALT 20V Chainsaw. I will upgrade the bar and chain when this one wears out. Excellent video with good advice. 👍
Thanks Bill!!
What store did you find that gasket for the oil cap? I have a saw that leaks badly.
@@kurtfrancis1524 Amazon has them for cheap
First, getting that stopper out is tricky for sure! Ended up using a long tweezers about 5" long and grabbed one end of the black plastic. More importantly, once the O-ring (I tried two different thicknesses) is on the lid, it would not lock! I'm guessing DeWalt designer specified the ring groove but the test engineer discovered what I discovered. So never mind...
I have done a similar upgrade to a 14" bar and chain, but used the .043" chain rather than the .050" chain. This is the same width chain as the original 12" chain. This puts less strain on the motor, as it is having to remove less material than the .050" chain. It also creates less sawdust! It certainly makes the saw more useful!
The Oregon part numbers are Chain 90PX052E and Bar 144MLEA041. In the UK they do not seem to be available as a set, so you have to buy them seperately
Just to be clear: kerf size (narrow or regular) is different from gauge (.043" or .050"). From what I understand 3/8" low profile is NARROW kerf, the "low profile" designates narrow kerf.
Kerf is the size of the cut in the wood, gauge is the size of the groove in the bar that the chain runs in.
@@CascadesHomestead Are you sure? pretty sure it means the cutters are shorter in height. The kerf, being the width of the cutting faces, should be the same as a standard 3/8 pitch.
Wow just came here looking to fix the oil leak… Just ordered the 14” bar can’t wait to try!
Great! Let us know how the 14" bar turns out for you!
Yea I'd really like to know how to fix the oil leaking out when it's stored (I store it flat/bar neutral not vertical) so it really shouldn't be leaking.
Thanks for oil leak fix. 5/8 x 1/2 O Ring fit snug. Danco brand name. Worked great.
Glad to hear!
Same here! Danco #12 13/16" x 5/8 I.D. fits like the part they forgot to add in the build spec! Stock # 35729 B.
For anyone else who's wondering I weighed the factory bar and chain and the 14" bar and chain (in the affiliate link to support @Seattle Retro Guy) in new condition (the Oregon chain had more factory oil coating than the DeWalt, both purchased from the Amazon):
Dewalt 12" bar - 13.3oz
Dewalt chain - 4.1oz
Oregon 14" bar - 16.8oz
Oregon chain - 5.7oz
Total difference = +5.1oz (a touch more than the weight of a D battery)
If anyone wants to send me a new 16" Oregon bar and chain linked in the description I'll weigh it for you in exchange. 😆
The 16" flexvolt bar fits on the 20v saw perfect. Also an 18" poulan pro Oregon bar fits on the flexvolt saw perfect. I have both saws and love them as well!
With the 16" bar my saw struggles a bit in very hard wood (white oak and big leaf maple), the softer hard woods like red alder and cottonwood are fine. I'm curious: how is your 18" bar doing with the really tough stuff, still enough power?
@@CascadesHomestead I have the 18" bar on the bigger 60v flexvolt saw, it has plenty of power, quite a bit more than the 20v
@@CadillacZachOffical Oh I see. Yes, the 60V saw might be a future upgrade. Still a bit pricey for my taste and our Stihls are great for "the big stuff".
But we LOVE the 60V trimmer, it's awesome!
@@CascadesHomestead life hack, I got my 60v off Ebay, look for the "open box" deals 😉. My 20v came from Ebay too but it was straight up used.... not a problem with either one. Paid about half MSRP for them.
Good info! Thanks
I just got one of these saws for Christmas, and I'm loving it. My only real complaint is the thumb safety for the trigger. I MUCH prefer a traditional palm safety like you find on a gas powered saw. I'd love to come up with a way to lock the thumb safety in, so I don't have to worry about it when running the saw.
Yes, I prefer the grip safety like most Stihls have but I've gotten used to the thumb safety on this one.
I put a little screw in the safety just for that reason.
Thanks for the video. I just noticed the leak… glad it’s an easy fix
Yup, just make sure the cap goes in easy, many of the o-rings are too fat, don't force the cap in. That's why I'm using a smaller o-ring and stretch it.
Good vid. This guy‘s really got it down. I’m retired and don’t have time for super long videos. Lots of info here in a short amount of time. 👍🏻
Thanks Drahthaar!! :)
You have less time now that you're retired?
Retired and don't have time, yea boomer 🤨
@@ironmantooltime GOOBER... Who said he was a "boomer"??
You ASSuming again?? 🤮
Great video only thing I would add is remove the battery from the tool before changing blades or bars ect just in case you bump the trigger I know it has a bump switch ect but it’s a good practice to power down any tool before maintenance
Great advise Lawrence! Always remove the battery and lock the chain brake before doing any kind of maintenance!
Thank you!!! used a metal wire to pull #12 danco 5/8th O ring(bit of a pain to get it in the upper groove otherwise). Tried a bigger one 3/4 but since its thicker, oil cap would not close.
Awesome video. I have other DeWalt tools and was considering the chainsaw... then got concerned with the oil leak complaints. Great explanation of how to fix, as well as benefits of the longer bar. Ordering the chainsaw now. Thank you!
did not work
Hi Doran, what exactly didn't work? The longer bar or the oil cap gasket? The gasket is a bit of trial and error...
@@CascadesHomestead the gasket. do i get a thicker one
That's what I was concerned about,the oil leak.I figured that it just needed an O-ring.I'm thinking about getting one for small jobs around the house.I'll use my gas chainsaw if I need to cut anything big.
I haven't had one for very long, but in my limited experience, the oil leak only seems to be an issue if you fill the tank to over-flowing. Fill it 4/5's full, and you might not have an issue.
One of the best instructional vids I've seen in awhile. Very useful info. Thx
Thanks, much appreciated!
Hi, did just what you said ans used 3/8 o -ring. Got a cheap tool bag at Harber Frught , $10.00 . Cut a slit for the blade to stick out and fits perfict. THANKS for the info.
Thanks for this. I love the KISS principle
Did the o-ring that you used stop the leak and does it leak in the tool bag? I have a Harbor Freight tool bag and I'd like to try doing that.
Great, easy fix for the oil leak! I'm about to get one of these same saws and I was a bit concerned about the notorious oil leak these things are known for. I always have an O-ring kit on hand so I'll have everything necessary to do the mod right out of the box!
Did it work
@@Areola-Grande not for me, couldn't get cap to lock with the o ring on.
Some people suggest that the motor will “WEAR” more with a more torque demanding bar but it is more an issue of the electrical heating of the motor and drive circuit (where the heating can also effect the motor bearings). A large 60 volt battery on a 20 volt saw will allow one to cut much longer, BUT electrical heating is something that should be monitored. Generally a 60 v battery will keep a higher voltage for longer preventing cutout / stalling which seems to “maybe” keep the saw a little bit less hot (at least that is an observation, as a kinda general rule on electric motors is that as the voltage drops the current increases (at constant torque demand) and it is the current that causes the heating, but these are brushless DC motors [ which are actually AC motors, as are all electrical motors ] with an “intelligent” drive circuit electronics that seem to monitors various parameters, maybe). Heating is a complicated issue that should always be monitored, at every battery change I blow all of the wood chips and dust out of the cooling vents and battery contacts with one of those cans of “air”, which is a bit expensive and their maybe a less costly way to clean (also it doesn’t hurt to blow the wood chips out of the sprocket cover at each battery change if it clogs up with oily chips). Also it helps to blow the dirt away from the oil filling cap prior to opening it up to refill so to keep the reservoir as clean as possible.
Keep the chain sharp and don’t push it too hard will keep the torque demand lower and greatly help with the electrical heating which is the biggest issue.
Bought one of these on sale for $196 thought it would be perfect for the kind of work I need to do (bushes,very small trees and large weeds) It started leaking all over my truck the day I filled it up. The bar oil reservoir doesn’t even have a max fill line and it just needs a little more power.
I used a coworkers 60v battery and it seemed to help a lot more regardless of battery life. Debating on if I should return it for a new one to modify or make the right choice and buy a MAKITA😂
For the oil leak: WHERE is the saw leaking from? If it's from the oil reservoir cap - easy fix, add the o-ring. If it's from the bottom of the saw when it's sitting then yeah, harder fix, disassembly required. I'll add a video soon. I like the saw, we have two of em, tireless little boogers, they just keep going and going...
@@CascadesHomestead The bottom unfortunately but it’s great to see how easy of a fix the oil reservoir cap is. Seems like they designed it to prevent leaking but said fuck it last minute.
I just bought this saw, and the reservoir does have a fill line marking
Thank you... very nice video and tips. I just bought this chainsaw and will def add the o ring
Thank you for think video! You're awesome man!
Thanks Adrian!
I wonder why DeWalt didn't place an o-ring in the groove to begin with. Everyone says they leak. No kidding! I agree with Douglas Sykes. This is how to make a video.
Thanks Tallens!!
Thanks! You'd think the saw would have came with oil ring! Cheap bastards! Mines leaked since day 1
Agreed... I can't believe they cheapened out on a 10 cent o-ring with a $200 saw :D
Adding the longer bar is okay if this is your only saw. I have two real chainsaws (Stihls) with 16 and 18 inch bars that give me everything I need for harvesting firewood out of our woods. I’m going to buy the Dewalt for trimming, cutting kindling, etc. Trying to decide between the 8 and 12 inch bar units.
The little 8” by DeWalt is a monster (see separate review on my channel), it’s become the most used saw in our yard.
Thanks got the saw and the bat
great video thank you! - i dont know why dewalt doesnt fix this issue
Thank you so much for the video I just bought one of these chainsaws and I really appreciate your video
Excellent video!. Thank you!
This is awesome information, gasket is a must. And the bar, I didn't know that existed !!!!
Great instruction video. I just placed my order on Amazon. Thanks!
What a GREAT video!! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video. Thank you.
awesome video. thank you for the ideas!
This video solved the leaking oil issue instantly. Thank you so much! Amazing that there was that grove in the cap. Why couldn't they just copy stihl? Mine never leaks.
Any way thank you for the o ring fix, and the recommendation for a longer bar. I will try out the 16" I use this saw for limbing logs. Won't have to bend over as far!
Glad it helped! Just make sure you don't push the 16" bar with hardwoods too much :)
@@CascadesHomestead
Definitely! Only fir and pine in my area.
And really the saw is just for limming trees that we will be cutting up for firewood. It's just so handy because my wife doesn't have to worry about starting a gas saw every few minutes and such.
I saw several Dewalt Chainsaw oil leak videos that said that’s not where the oil leak is.
Depends: do a quick test, wipe it all clean and then check where the oil is coming from. If from the filler cap - yes, the o-ring helps. If it's from the bottom of the saw just sitting then yeah, disassembly required. A bit of work but not too bad for DIY folks. We have two of these 12" saws (with 14" bars), one just leaked from the cap, easy fix. I had to take the other one apart, will put up a video soon.
This was an awesome video! Very clever thanks!!
taking life of the motor with longer bar! Max you should be using a 14" on this size saw
Since I cut a variety of soft and hardwoods the 14" bar works great. At times I've been using this saw for hours straight (with the big FlexVolt batteries) and it has held up really well. Make sure you chains are sharp and don't forget to top of the bar oil.
I maybe so if sawing none stop. You always need to stop to pile brush or pile wood. The longer bar will make deliming easier and save your back. I will do the 16" bar conversion on the DeWalt. Backup plan is a Husquvarna # 51 2 smoker.
I’m gonna put the 20” bar on mine just so BoostAddict has an aneurism.
O ring will stop oil coming out the cap but it comes out everywhere else aswell
The one I have works fine. I am wondering if the non sealing cap is the air intake so the tank doesnt get a vaccum lock and toast the bar from no oil and possibly take out the pump. As it is, the oil tank is not completely out when the battery gets low which is a great design from not starving the bar from oil. Great video BTW.
Clear and concise with out the usual BS thrown in.
Thanks Ed! I agree, better too much oil than not enough. Hasn't been a problem so far, even with the rubber o-ring it still puts out plenty of oil.
Thanks for trying, but the O-ring was not the cause of my oil leak problem. I tried your solution and it didn't help. One problem (see Pepper Moon Garage video) is leaking along junctures of the the molded parts of the oil tank - that fix is watchmaker complex. Another cause may be overfilling by the user (guilty) and the excess oil seeps out the bottom after a delay.
Yeah, this saw has THREE areas where it leaks oil :( We have two of these saws and one was scenario 1, one was scenario 2 and both were scenario 3
1) from the filler cap, easy fix with the o-ring
2) from the tank, easy fix with sealant but requires complete disassembly, sort of painful
3) from the oiler hole, no fix really, we just store it laying on the oil cap, that helps
LOTS of leaks in this saw... It's such an awesome tool, now if DeWalt could only do a bit more engineering and fix the leaks :D
Thanks, the oil leak was really bugging me
Mate, just don't fill all way to top, only fill to bottom of black insert, she'll be right.
Stop commenting before you know if it actually worked.
Great help 👍 really!!!!
I used the 5/8, cap closes, but still leaking oil sadly. Might have to try the 3/4 I guess?
11/16
You rock. Thanks. 👍
Good job.
Thank you ....great idea...
I got the same chainsaw....
the leak comes from the other side where the blade is, there is a slot there where the oil comes out
Hi Jake, yes the hole for the chain oiler leaks as well but if you store the saw flat on the ground the chain oiler won't leak much. On our two DeWalts most of the oil leaked from the cap, with the o-rings those leaks stopped.
@@CascadesHomestead thanks, I will try this then. I just got one today, and this thing drinks chain oil like I drink beer 😆
Or once your finished using the chainsaw, just drain all the oil out before heading home. Oil leak fixed.
DLBJ - that certainly works! Do you re-use the drained oil?
That was excellent, Thanks!!!
Good video, thanks
Glad it helped!
Good info thanks
Just got the saw in 2023....dewalt still hasn't put in a rubber O ring? LOL. I had a big set of O rings from Harbor freight for about $10 ...found the right size, done.
Just got this saw and added the o-ring first thing. Only complaint, it pumps too much bar oil. Anyone found a way to adjust that?
Hi Steve, there is no way (that I know of) to adjust the pump. Maybe try a slightly thicker oil?
There's already a seal at the tank opening. If you have an oil leak adding a seal won't fix it. Been there, done that.
As an extra safety if you store the chainsaw on its side it won't leak.
Not true. A quick Google search shows many pissed off people about this issue. I store it flat (bar neutral/not vertical) and still come back to a puddle
I have one of these , putting it on it's side with the oil cap up did not stop the leaking. The entire tank leaks out.
I've had the saw for a year and have never had the oil cap leak. The only leak I see is from the actual place where the oil contacts the bar. I just store on side, as you mentioned, and no issue.
Really Enjoyed your video, I just bought my New Dewalt saw in fact it arrived today . I have not even removed it from the box. I purchased mine for ATVing . Don't want to be stuck on a trail when a tree decides to block my way. I guess my question is I'm trying to stay with a smaller blade due to room to store it on my ATV and was deciding on if I should still get the 14" blade as a upgrade. I think the 16 might be over kill for me and defeat the purpose of the smaller lighter saw for trail riding. Any advice? But also don't want to bring a saw that's not going to do the job. Basically only bought the saw for that occasional fallen tree or some fire would to get me thru the night.
I think the 14" bar should be fine and it works on all types of wood, soft and hard. The 16" bogs down in the hard stuff plus it's bigger. I think for size on the ATV the 14" would be better as well! Good luck! Just make sure your battery/batteries are charged! :)
@@CascadesHomestead Thanks for the advice. I have a couple 10 mah batterys. They cost more then the saw. LOL
Why do you say that the 16 doesn't work in hardwood? Surely 4 inches of hardwood is much the same on all 3 bars with the only minor difference being a little more friction on the longer bars? I assume you mean "when used to maximum capacity"?
I've used the saw with a 16" bar in hardwood and it does work in many of them. But it did stall out in Garry Oak for example, it's just to match for a motor that was designed for a 12" bar. Alder (hardwood but fairly soft) is fine, so I think it depends what kind of hardwood you're cutting.
great video much appreciated
how do I select "2 thumbs up" for this video? :-)
(looks like 1 person hit the thumbs-down by accident!)
I was hoping the O ring would stop my bar oil leak but I couldn't properly lock the cap back on. Oh well.
Don't want to be the one but there is some bad info here sorry. That o ring can't help open it up you'll see and look at the line up for the bar oil from saw to bar. If you don't mind replacing the bar on the regular and chain go for it. If I didn't check it I wouldn't say it.
Good chain oil
Good useful video. I have the same saw and noticed when it cuts it leaves splintering on the wood as it finishes the cut but the chain is new and sharp from the factory. Is this normal?
Hi Matt, I assume you're using a cross-cut chain for making cross-cuts, right? They will never be super smooth but it shouldn't leave big splinters either. Is the chain unevenly sharpened, does the saw pull to one side? I can't talk to the original DeWalt chains much but the Oregon chains are decent, in general they make pretty smooth cuts. If finish quality is important then you can also try to cut a board with the upper part of the chainsaw and away from you (please be super careful about kickback!!!), thus the chain cuts down into the wood and pulls the fibers into the cut. I do that when I need an extra smooth cut, hope that makes sense.
@@CascadesHomestead The chain is straight out the box from the factory and only done a handful of cuts and did this from the off. Haven't even touched the chain.
The chain is the oregan one and seems sharp looking at it and not damaged at all.
The saw is cutting straight and doesn't seem to pull to one side that I know of.
The splinters seem to appear at the base of of the cut
Just curious... if you add a longer bar is there any evidence of motor damage? Im wondering if it has to work harder it does more than just drain the battery faster?
That's a great question Doug! Honestly: I do not know. I've been using these saws on a regular basis with the 14" and 16" bars mostly on softwoods like Hemlock, Red Cedar etc. and the 14" on hardwood Red Alder without any problems. Your mileage may vary, do this at your own risk. One thing to note: DeWalt offers longer bars as well.
Always use good bar oil, never run out, keep the chains sharp so your saw doesn't have to work so hard, keep the vents clean of sawdust etc. and never run the saw with the break on.
@@CascadesHomestead Thank you for your quick response... much appreciated... and I will heed your advice....! I'll wait until the warrantee is out before I go experimenting.... thanks again!
if you push on it hard with a longer bar for an extended period of time, it will damage any saws. if the battery drains faster, then the motor is under more load which result in more wear. Just let it revs and don't push too hard with any of the bars.
@@nicolaschampagne8988
Is it the “WEAR” or the electrical heating of the motor and drive circuit. A large 60 volt battery on a 20 volt saw will allow one to cut much longer, BUT electrical heating is something that should be monitored. Generally a 60 v battery will keep a higher voltage for longer preventing cutout / stalling which seems to maybe keep the saw a little bit less hot (at least that is an observation as a kinda general rule on electric motors is that as the voltage drops the current increases and it is the current that causes the heating, but these are brushless DC motors with an “intelligent” drive circuit electronics that seem to monitors various parameters, maybe). Heating is a complicated issue that should always be monitored, at every battery change I blow all of the wood chips and dust out of the cooling vents and battery contacts with one of those cans of “air”, which is a bit expensive and their maybe a less costly way to clean (also it doesn’t hurt to blow the wood chips out of the sprocket cover at each battery change if it clogs up with oily chips).
Do you have more torque or speed with the 60v batterie? I cant find any good info aubout it. Some say it has more "power" with bigger batteries. I like your reviews.
No, but you get longer run time. The 60V FlexVolt on a 20V tool automatically switches to 20V but lasts a lot longer. Plus I like the weight distribution better with a bigger battery, but that's just my preference.
Ok, I need help abuot oli. Original is expensive. What values or what standards it should have? Maybe some popular oils are good?
No need to use the DeWalt oil, that stuff is too expensive. I've used Husqvarna X-Guard forever, it's great oil, super tacky and much lower cost. amzn.to/3Wlo5Tc
@@CascadesHomestead thx so much 😎🤙
I had trouble getting the small plastic bar that keeps the oil plug from dropping with a Needle Nose Pliers and one side broke off on one chainsaw. I used a Hemostat to get the Plastic retainer bar out of the other Chainsaw and was much ore successful. Nothing broke. I got several Rubber O-ring In 11/16" and 3/4". The thick 11/16" O-Ring seemed to work the best. The link you posted brings up a 14" Oregon Chainsaw Replacement #27856 with the S52 chain. Is this the correct one for the Dewalt?
Hi GeeZee, yes "Oregon 14-Inch Chainsaw Bar & S52 Chain, Fits Echo, Craftsman, Poulan, Homelite, Makita, Husqvarna, Ryobi and More (27856)" is the right one. Cheers!
@@CascadesHomestead The only thing that concerned me is that the Oregon bar is not as wide as the DeWalt.
Hello, I have followed your advice and bought one of 5/8 and another of 3/4 but with neither I can close the lid. Can you tell me exactly what the thickness should be, thanks
The outside diameter OD needs to be 1"3/16 and the inside diameter ID is 1"1/16 - I had to try a few 5/8 and 3/4 o-rings and once stretched they fit. If you can find a ID 1"1/16 o-ring that's 1/16" thick then that should work as well. Good luck!
@@CascadesHomestead thanks I will try to go with the lid to check if I can find the correct one. Thanks again and have a great day.
Why not get the flexvolt 16" chainsaw. Or the 18" or 20".
Great question! I did just that, got the new DeWalt 60V 20" chainsaw. Great tool! You can see my review here: ruclips.net/video/rIuzovOXvXI/видео.html
Keep in mind that it is quite a bit more expensive ;)
i would remove the battery before you start changing the chain..
Yup, remove battery and lock the brake!
appreciate this video but I really don't think that groove seals on anything to the point where this is a fix... most of the leaks are internal on the hoses coming from the pump
I think it's three leaky areas:
1) The cap - I had oil dripping out of there and the o-ring seemed to have stopped that
2) The chain oiler - still leaking slowly, not much but still annoying
3) The oil tank itself - looks like on one of my saws (I have two of them) the hoses connecting the tank to the chain oiler are leaking, I'll have to fix that during the next tear down
Do you know how to make the Dewalt saw oil the bar, mine always runs dry. I have the tank full, I cleaned out the bar and the oil hole, but I don't get any oil.
Hi Chris, the usual culprit is a plugged hole from the chain oiler, a lot of times there is sawdust etc. clogging that up. But it sounds like you already did that. The other culprits are either the oil pump, the oil tube assembly or the oil filter. The filter (part 52) can get clogged or if the filter got lose etc. the oil tube (parts 20 and 21) might get clogged. I've never had a broken/clogged oil pump but I guess it could happen. In order to fix those you'll have to take the whole saw body apart and that's not that easy and it's quite a bit of work. Check if you still have warranty on it and if so let DeWalt deal with it. Parts can be found online, for example: www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/dewalt/chainsaw/dccs620b/chainsaw
There is also a video that shows how to take the saw apart, check it out to see if you're up for that :)
ruclips.net/video/-yIqluXVleo/видео.html
And before you do anything else you may also want to try a thinner oil, fill the oil tank about half, shake it, flush it (pour it out) and see if you can dislodge any debris. You can always test without the bar and chain on, that way it's easy to see if there is oil coming out of the chain oiler hole. And personally I am not a big fan of the "bio oils", they get pretty gummy if you leave the saw sitting for a while. So if you only use the saw sporadically go with the regular bar oils.
I tried an O ring but it is leaking oil. Any thoughts on that? Thank you for such an informative video.
Finding the right size is a bit tricky, it can't be too big since the cap still has to fit into the housing, but it also has to be big enough to seal and stop the leaks. Please take another look at the video, especially at 2:18. It took me a few tries to find the right size. Hope that helps!
Ok. I will take another look. Thank you for your reply.
Look for the REAL fix here on RUclips. It's quite complex. You have to take the machine all apart. The leak is from various areas ON THE TANK.
It's the bar where it connect to the bottom plastic. It's been dropped or manufacturing flaw.
I didn't see you rehook the cap line in the oil reservoir. Is it hard to re-attach?????
Naa, just push it back in (you can see it in the video at around 2:07) and make sure it turns sideways at the bottom, super easy.
@@CascadesHomestead got it. Thought it had to be reattached. Thanks
So how is the ring holding up? Did the oil stop leaking?
Ring seems to be holding up well and I'd say 80% of my oil leaks stopped. I think there are also some internal leaks as well, so next time I tear it apart I'll have to look for those as well.
I added the O ring and it didn't stop the oil leak.
can you give us the oregon part number for the 14" bar please, here in aus replacement of bigger size is impossible. our saw is a DCM565M1
Hi Jac Dee, the part number is Oregon #27856, description is "Oregon Standard Chain and Bar Combo 14 in Bar A041 Tail Mount, S52 Chain, 0.050 Gauge 3/8 in. Low Profile Chain"
@@CascadesHomestead thanks
O-ring fix did not work on my chainsaw. Really disappointed in Dewalt if in fact there was an o-ring omitted during manufacturing.
Hi John, where is the oil leaking from with your chainsaw? The o-ring should work if it's sized right. The other spot that always leaks a little is the oil hole on the chain side, no fix for that :(
The oil leak is NOT from the cap. It's internal to the tank. The fix is complex, look for it here on RUclips. I'm not going through all that.
Yeah, we have two saws, one leaked plenty through the oil cap and the o-ring worked. The other one is leaking through in internal tank connections, I'll do an updated video on that soon.
How many saws have you broke so far it seams to only last me 2 years then back to the store for a new one
The trigger switch broke on one of the saws which we bought in March of 2018. Easy replacement but required disassembly and was a bit tedious. The second saw never had a problem and both saws get a lot of use. If you register the saw, DeWalt gives 3 years (limited) warranty, my experience with them has been great, especially with stuff that was obviously their fault.
One more Q: what broke? A lot of the things on this saw are easy to fix (sprocket, chainbrake etc.) and replacement parts are readily available.
It could possibly be the trigger now that I look at it
I've read that you should remove the oil from the chainsaw after use to prevent leaks, is this necessary or will the addition of the O-ring take care of this issue?
I don’t remove the oil anymore and with a tight fitting o-ring you won’t see any large leaks. You will still have a little bit of oil coming out of the chain oiler hole (under the drive sprocket cover) on the other side of the saw, but as long as you store the saw upright it won’t leak a ton. Unfortunately there isn’t a fix for that. But the o-ring will fix the majority of the leakage, you will have to experiment a bit with different o-ring sizes, you want a good right fit, small enough to still be able to push in the cap before turning and closing it, big enough to fit snugly into the gap to prevent the leaks.
We keep one saw in the trunk during the fall and winter and we have a chainsaw case for that. That way even the small dribbles from the chain oiler won’t mess things up.
Mate, just don't fill all way to top, only fill to bottom of black insert, she'll be right.
After using this chainsaw for a few months I have started to notice that after cutting for a bit the saw stops working and won't start again until I wait for a good 5 or 10 mins. Why is this? Is it overheating or something?
Hi Matt, I suspect it’s the battery overheating. You can test this, when the saw stops pop another battery in and see if it starts up again.
I usually have an extra battery around just in case…
@@CascadesHomestead I will try that but thought was the saw.
You think maybe the battery is getting a bit old if it's doing that?
@@mattseymour8637 Or it might be too small. I mostly use the 9Ah batteries in the 20V saw. Smaller batteries seem to run hotter. Btw: if it does end up being the saw overheating then make sure the vent holes are free of wood chips etc.
@@CascadesHomestead Well I use the 5amp batteries it suggests and usually ok.
Can I ask where the vent holes are located and how best to clean them?
Larger capacity batteries, whether 20V or 60V generally have more (18650?) cells in parallel, therefore "spread the load" better across the internal resistance of the batteries. This makes it less likely to overheat the individual batteries in the pack.
Not many hours on my Dewalt saw and it won't turn on today, tried several batteries. No, I don't have the chain brake on. I'm pissed as I never registered it and can't find a receipt.
Ouch! You should ping their support line or send a message on FB with model and serial number. I’ve had good experiences with ‘after the warranty expired’ service by DeWalt, Bosch and Milwaukee. Doesn’t hurt to ask…
I have the 20v chainsaw and it leaks oil beneath it after sitting for a few days. Will this rubber gasket fix that?
The gasket will stop the leaks from the oil reservoir cap, but it won't do anything about oil leaking from the chain oiler (on the sprocket side). So it depends where your saw is leaking...
So I store my 20v with the oil cap facing up (bar horizontal/ neutral) and the chainsaw still leaks like a mother****. In this position it leaks less than if you stored it with bar vertical (as most people do) where it will dump your oil tank.
How does this o-ring replacement help stop leaking when I'm not leaking from the oil cap?
My chainsaw leaked no matter what position I stored it in, including leaking from the oil cap. I added the O-ring (took a bit of trial and error to find one that fit perfectly) and I now store it upright with VERY LITTLE leakage. There is still some oil leaking from the chain oiler hole under the chain cover but it is way better than it was.
@@CascadesHomestead wait... What are you calling upright? Bar is horizontal or vertical? (Sorry I'm new to chainsaw lingo - give it a few months and the woke will start gendering the chainsaw with pronouns.)
@@JoSt5646 Hey, good point! I store it bar vertical, chain brake pointing up, oil cap pointing at me. For me the oil leaks were 10% chain oiler under the sprocket cover and 90% from the cap. With the O-ring the cap leaks are fixed but it's still leaking very slightly from the chain oiler. Ah well, it's way better than it was though, before the O-ring it leaked like a sieve. I also have an old baking tray (thrift store) underneath it, that way the oil doesn't dribble everywhere.
does the 16in and 18 in chainsaws have better internals than the 12in? or are they all the same machine
The 20" saw has a MUCH beefier motor and mechanics for sure and I suspect so are the 16" and the 18" saw. By putting on a bigger bar on the 12" saw you might wear it out a bit faster but we had ours for well over three years now and they are still going strong. This is with mostly the 14" bar and with softwoods. Use common sense and don't burn up the saw of course :)
What is the number for just an Oregon chain.
For the 14" Oregon bar the number for the 14" Oregon chain is S52, right here: amzn.to/3kqCmfR
For the 16" Oregon bar the number for the 16" Oregon chain is S56, right here: amzn.to/3MKFgbt
Please note: these chains do NOT fit the original DeWalt 12" bar!
Anyone know what size file the factory chain uses?
PPR: the 12" factory chain needs a round 11/64′′ (= 4.5 mm) file for those at a 60-degree angle in cutter direction. Oregon makes these files: amzn.to/3hRBN0p
Page 15 of the saw manual has more details, here is the link:
www.toolservicenet.com/i/DEWALT/GLOBALBOM/QU/DCCS620B/1/Instruction_Manual/EN/N518512_DCCS620.pdf
@@CascadesHomestead Thanks Brother. You have earned my subscription.
Hi,I rather have a problem that oil is leaking from the bottom of the handle. Not from the top or the chain. I already have a 54V saw and there is still a problem with oil leakage. How to solve tsn problem?
Your new 54V saw, is that the new DCCS677 model that just came out?
@@CascadesHomestead I have a EU version DCM575X1
@@martinnovotny9066 Oh, that's the 60V (or better: 54V) saw. Sorry, I don't have that model :(
@@CascadesHomestead 54V and 60V is the same, 18 and 20V is the same .. Only differnet is title .... It is mainly a business view - a larger number sells better and at the same time an effort to differentiate older batteries (another connector)
@@marikakrskova7789
The voltage difference is a marketing term used in the US and not in Europe as it would be considered false advertising there! The batteries and tools are identical but the lower voltage is the current on voltage while the US voltage is the “float” maximum voltage after full charge and NO current (at least that is how a Dewalt factory rep explained it to me).
WELL, THAT DOESN'T WORK STILL LEAKS OIL. MANUAL SAYS DRAIN THE OIL OUT AFTER USE. I LAID IT DOWN ON IT'S AND STILL LEAKES. TALKED TO REPAIR SHOP FOR DEWALT AND HE SAID DRAIN THE OIL.
This method cannot solve the problem because the oil leak inside.
Hi Tom, two types of oil leaks: out of the cap (this fix is easy and works) and inside at the oil tank with a bad seal due to rough spots on the plastic. We have two saws, one of them leaked like a fountain out of the cap and the o-ring helped. I had to disassemble the other saw to fix the leak at the oil tank. Kind of a pain but it worked well, I'll do a future video on it.
Wow! This is perfect! Subscribe!
Ive been unable to cut white pine with the 12” bar and chain. It quickly gets stuck in the log. Anyone else having this problem?
Hi IoF, white pine should NOT be a problem, that's very soft wood. Is the bar bent in any way or is there tension in the log that pinches the bar? When you cut, is there enough room towards you so the wood chips can be flung out? Is there a lot a resin or gum?
I assume you chain is sharp and properly tensioned, right?
With oil not work
Haha the misinformation on these battery powered saws literally makes me laugh. The oil leak is not coming from the cap, changing the o ring won’t do anything. All chainsaws have a chain oiling function, when you use the saw, oil flows through a small hole, onto your bar. And CONTINUES to flow, for probably 20 minutes after you’ve finished using the saw. This is your “ leak “ which is actually a function of the saw. And this is a no brainer, but running a bar that’s too big for the saw, is going to put added strain on the saw, causing it to break a lot faster than you want it to. Or perhaps in the case of an electric saw, cause the batteries to wear out ( not run out of juice. But actually kill the battery ) so much faster. And those batteries are fuckin pricey
The biggger the bar and chain the less power you will get in that chainsaw 🤷
Yup! I wouldn't go beyond 14" for tough woods (maple, oak etc.) and beyond 16" for soft wood (cedar, fir etc.).
control board in these are junk and hard to get
if anyone knows anything about motors and dewalt. You would know they installed the lowest price motor that barely met the requirements of the factory bar and chain. Increasing the size, yes does drain the battery fast.. but it also wears out the motor fast. Thus cutting the life of the saw in half. This due to the increase drag of the longer bar and wood in contact with the longer chain.
Hi Richard, I think that's a fair concern. But we had the first of our 20V DCCS620P1 chainsaws for a little over 4 years now, running it for at least 3 1/2 years with the 14" bar and it gets a LOT of use. Our Stihls feel neglected by now :) No issues with the DeWalts so far, YMMV of course. As far as wearing out the motor: these are brushless so the main failure point would be overheating (loss of lubrication in the bearings, coil failure etc.). Use good bar oil, I'm not a fan of the bio-oils, keep the chain sharp and don't abuse the saw.
Our second DCCS620P1 is 3 years old, also going strong.