Kenmore Elite 790.42763512 broil & bake not working. The control panel appears to be working normally - displays and controls. The gas range works without any issues. Both bake & broil coils went out simultaneously. I removed the safety cutoff fuse ("thermostat") (part # 807144901) and it was bad. (Tested open.) Question: Can I temporarily short the terminals of the safety cutoff fuse to confirm that it is the cause of the oven not working? Or is the control circuitry able to detect a short and also prevent the oven from working? In other words, do I have to have a new, working safety cutoff fuse installed to test? Thanks.
Yes you can temporarily bypass the cutoff to confirm that it is the cause of the oven not working. Most of the time people just connect the two wires together.
@@PartsDr Bypassed it but the oven (broiler and bake) still don’t work. Probably the control board. Just surprising that so many things would fail simultaneously. Also it has to be something that’s common to both the broiler and the bake element.
@@PartsDr Thanks, haven't had time to work on it further. First want to verify that the two elements aren't really getting 220v. Then want to buzz out the elements themselves. Finally, see if the control board is feeding voltage to the bake/broil circuits. Maybe a bad relay on the board, but, again, a common relay for both circuits? Does anyone know where I can get a circuit diagram for 5304503501?
Is it possible a faulty fuse could cause the oven not reaching its set temperature? Our oven can be turnt up to 230*c but won’t get much hotter then 80*c. The thermometer has already been tested and works properly. Any help would be welcomed!
I have a Frigidaire microwave model number FGMV175QFA that has lost power entirely. To trouble shoot, I detected that the thermal fuse on the left (120V) exhibits continuity while the one on the right (70V... part number 5304509475) does not. I replaced the thermal fuse that did not show continuity thinking this would fix the microwave but it didn't. Is it expected that the one on the right would NOT show continuity at room temperature?
This thermostat will NOT have continuity at room temperature. This thermostat is normally open at room temperature and closes once it reaches 158F. It is usually wired to turn on a vent fan at that temperature.
@@PartsDr i tested everything. Wasn’t getting 240 past the control board. Replaced it, the oven read an error that meant defective EOC. Called the company I bought it from, they sent me a new one, and it worked! I’m so glad RUclips exists or I would’ve spent a whole lot more.
jvm1540sm5ss it is a normal open thermal switch. I hated it with a hair dryer and I got continuity. The wires that are on a switch on the magnetron are burnt. It is not the magnetron wires but the switch wires that are on the magnetron. What would cause both of those to burn?
Does Microwave need to always have continuous power supply for protecting it parts from overheating, and it turning ON/OFF vent fan automatically, due to gas stove below it which can produce high temperature while cooking?
Video was excellent, the only thing I would suggest is either show the meter reading for a good or bad fuse on camera, or write it on the instructions below. I could not see what the readings were.
I have a resettable thermal cut off on my 14 year old whirlpool gas water heater that is preventing my pilot from staying lit. If I bypass it, all works great. But if I don't bypass sometimes the pilot will light if I keep the pilot button depressed for 2.5 to 5 minutes. It shows a very low ohm load, but not 0 like my meter shows touching probes. I think I just answered my own question as to if its bad or not lol But it should show 0 resistance right?
I have a KSD1 40/56 Microwave Oven Thermostat that shows no continuity when I do this test. Could it be that it is a normally open switch? If so how do I test it?
JVM1540SM5SS. There is a switch on the magnetron that has burnt terminals. What would cause these to get burnt? I haven't got any voltage on my high power transformer.
my heating element inside the oven somehow started to arc.... it looked like a fuse burning as the arc made its way along the heating element.... I replaced the heating element in the oven, but the oven will not power on... did the element arcing trip the thermal fuse?
Parts Dr - thanks for the reply. That makes sense. It’s amazing I searched for 15-20 minutes and could find no reference to that whatsoever on the web.
Hi wen i set it on the continuity setting its shows a 1 and wen I tested the thermal fuse it was at 500 then it droped down to 001 and stayed at that is that a good thermal fuse
Does the temperature rating is important?, the old thermal fuse was 250V 10A 140C, but the only available where I am is 142C and above... *does that mean that my o en will not be repaired ever¡?
In most cases the replacement should be the same temperature rating unless the manufacture has made a change and is suggesting to use a replacement with a different temperature rating.
Sooo, i know its a year later. But my oven isnt heating to the preset temperature. Now when i take this thermal fuse out of the equation and "tie the wires" together it got to 400 preset temp in minutes, no problem. This is a new thermal fuse though, almost like internally when there is a fuse in the system its not allowing it to heat properly. This is the 2nd thermal fuse ive tried already as well.
Ok so tell me how i have a nt101 kie thermal cut out thats supposed to be n/c until 140°f then automatically reset at 90°f.. tell me how the thing suddenly switched to n/o until 140°f then back off again at 90°f!??!?? I have only ever seem them open circuit when failed hence thermal cut out switch.. but this has turned itself into a thermal cut on switch somehow.. not a clue. Looks same as all other thermal switches but went all queer on me, switched sides.. batting for the other team now.. i mean be what you wanna be but not when your job is to not do the opposite thing your designed for.. as a safety switch.. electronics do some odd crap sometimes. Like i guess the metallic strip inside somehow just all the sudden over extended and bent the other way..
Great precise and instructive video!
Thank you!
Great video, you explained everything from start to finish.. thank you
We are glad you found it helpful!
Thanks, your description of how to test this fuse was really clear and helpful🙂👍🏼
We're glad you found it helpful!
Thank you so much it's helpful ☺️ 😊
You're welcome!
Great video
Thanks!
What fix would you say for turning turntable when not in use
Kenmore Elite 790.42763512 broil & bake not working. The control panel appears to be working normally - displays and controls. The gas range works without any issues.
Both bake & broil coils went out simultaneously. I removed the safety cutoff fuse ("thermostat") (part # 807144901) and it was bad. (Tested open.)
Question: Can I temporarily short the terminals of the safety cutoff fuse to confirm that it is the cause of the oven not working? Or is the control circuitry able to detect a short and also prevent the oven from working? In other words, do I have to have a new, working safety cutoff fuse installed to test?
Thanks.
Yes you can temporarily bypass the cutoff to confirm that it is the cause of the oven not working. Most of the time people just connect the two wires together.
@@PartsDr Bypassed it but the oven (broiler and bake) still don’t work. Probably the control board. Just surprising that so many things would fail simultaneously. Also it has to be something that’s common to both the broiler and the bake element.
@@SammytheBammy1 Let us know what you find as the cause of the problem.
@@PartsDr Thanks, haven't had time to work on it further. First want to verify that the two elements aren't really getting 220v. Then want to buzz out the elements themselves. Finally, see if the control board is feeding voltage to the bake/broil circuits. Maybe a bad relay on the board, but, again, a common relay for both circuits? Does anyone know where I can get a circuit diagram for 5304503501?
Sir thermal cutoff series connection can be or can't 128c 229c plz?
my kenmore electric range, burners or oven quit heating. clock and lights work
Is it possible a faulty fuse could cause the oven not reaching its set temperature? Our oven can be turnt up to 230*c but won’t get much hotter then 80*c.
The thermometer has already been tested and works properly. Any help would be welcomed!
I have a Frigidaire microwave model number FGMV175QFA that has lost power entirely. To trouble shoot, I detected that the thermal fuse on the left (120V) exhibits continuity while the one on the right (70V... part number 5304509475) does not. I replaced the thermal fuse that did not show continuity thinking this would fix the microwave but it didn't. Is it expected that the one on the right would NOT show continuity at room temperature?
This thermostat will NOT have continuity at room temperature. This thermostat is normally open at room temperature and closes once it reaches 158F. It is usually wired to turn on a vent fan at that temperature.
Hi, my electricity trips when I select grill on selector switch. Any help plz?
Do all ovens have thermal fuses? I can’t find one on mine
No, not all ovens have thermal fuses. The best way to find out if you have a thermal fuse is to look at the wiring diagram/schematic.
@@PartsDr i tested everything. Wasn’t getting 240 past the control board. Replaced it, the oven read an error that meant defective EOC. Called the company I bought it from, they sent me a new one, and it worked! I’m so glad RUclips exists or I would’ve spent a whole lot more.
jvm1540sm5ss it is a normal open thermal switch. I hated it with a hair dryer and I got continuity. The wires that are on a switch on the magnetron are burnt. It is not the magnetron wires but the switch wires that are on the magnetron. What would cause both of those to burn?
Does Microwave need to always have continuous power supply for protecting it parts from overheating, and it turning ON/OFF vent fan automatically, due to gas stove below it which can produce high temperature while cooking?
Video was excellent, the only thing I would suggest is either show the meter reading for a good or bad fuse on camera, or write it on the instructions below. I could not see what the readings were.
OL open line (no continuity) 0: continuity (good component)
@@DanWebster Thank you for your reply.
I have a resettable thermal cut off on my 14 year old whirlpool gas water heater that is preventing my pilot from staying lit. If I bypass it, all works great. But if I don't bypass sometimes the pilot will light if I keep the pilot button depressed for 2.5 to 5 minutes. It shows a very low ohm load, but not 0 like my meter shows touching probes. I think I just answered my own question as to if its bad or not lol
But it should show 0 resistance right?
My GE model has 2 thermal fuses. One has continuity, the other doesn't. Microwave still works. Normal?
On GE microwaves it is common for one of the thermostats that controls the fan to be normally open (no continuity) at room temperature.
I have a KSD1 40/56 Microwave Oven Thermostat that shows no continuity when I do this test. Could it be that it is a normally open switch? If so how do I test it?
What is the model number of the microwave?
JVM1540SM5SS. There is a switch on the magnetron that has burnt terminals. What would cause these to get burnt? I haven't got any voltage on my high power transformer.
Test with a lighter
my heating element inside the oven somehow started to arc.... it looked like a fuse burning as the arc made its way along the heating element.... I replaced the heating element in the oven, but the oven will not power on... did the element arcing trip the thermal fuse?
Most commonly when the element arcs and shorts out like that, it damages the control board that sends power to the heating element.
What does the 50 mean on a thermal fuse noted as L350-50? Fuse opens at 350 but what does 50 mean? Thanks!
That would be a thermostat that resets. It would open and cut out at 350F (no continuity) and close (have continuity) after it cools down 50F to 300F.
Parts Dr - thanks for the reply. That makes sense. It’s amazing I searched for 15-20 minutes and could find no reference to that whatsoever on the web.
Hi wen i set it on the continuity setting its shows a 1 and wen I tested the thermal fuse it was at 500 then it droped down to 001 and stayed at that is that a good thermal fuse
It sounds like it is probably good. It is common for the number to jump up higher until the probes make solid connection and then it will drop down.
@@PartsDr thank u
Hi whats a bad reading on a coil wen testing the winding with a multimeter on continuity or 200ohms
@@TW39 the same reading that you get when you don't touch the two meter probes together.
my electric oven heat for a minute or two then trip the circuit any suggestion ?
Thanks!
You're welcome!
If its not the fuse what else could the problem be? No power at all, no display. 2 year old Whirlpool wall oven.
First thing to check would be the power supply to the wall oven.
Can you give some idea of where this fuse would be
The locations of these fuses can vary quite a bit. You will have to search for the location based on your exact model number.
Does the temperature rating is important?, the old thermal fuse was 250V 10A 140C, but the only available where I am is 142C and above... *does that mean that my o en will not be repaired ever¡?
In most cases the replacement should be the same temperature rating unless the manufacture has made a change and is suggesting to use a replacement with a different temperature rating.
Thanks. Avoided a expensive visit by an electrician
Awesome!
Faults on Belling built in double oven, bottom element not working on top oven formula 488 oven
احسنت منك نتعلم
Sooo, i know its a year later. But my oven isnt heating to the preset temperature. Now when i take this thermal fuse out of the equation and "tie the wires" together it got to 400 preset temp in minutes, no problem.
This is a new thermal fuse though, almost like internally when there is a fuse in the system its not allowing it to heat properly. This is the 2nd thermal fuse ive tried already as well.
Maybe double check that you have the correct fuse/thermostat with the correct temperature rating.
@@PartsDr i ordered it thru you guys. Its the 6930W1A003X
Model on the oven is LRE30453ST
@@stuff_n_thanngs7552 We don't think we can assist you further with this over a RUclips comment.
@@PartsDr oooook.
What does that mean exactly
mines isn't in the back. where else can it be??? need help asap, I've already bought stupid boards 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Not all models have a fuse/thermostat. First, check to make sure your model has one.
Ok so tell me how i have a nt101 kie thermal cut out thats supposed to be n/c until 140°f then automatically reset at 90°f.. tell me how the thing suddenly switched to n/o until 140°f then back off again at 90°f!??!?? I have only ever seem them open circuit when failed hence thermal cut out switch.. but this has turned itself into a thermal cut on switch somehow.. not a clue. Looks same as all other thermal switches but went all queer on me, switched sides.. batting for the other team now.. i mean be what you wanna be but not when your job is to not do the opposite thing your designed for.. as a safety switch.. electronics do some odd crap sometimes. Like i guess the metallic strip inside somehow just all the sudden over extended and bent the other way..
What type of appliance is this being used on? What is the model number of the appliance?
Thanks! Mine is blown… hehe
Glad you found it!