I literally love you. You are an angel. I was so frustrated. Kept thinking I can’t believe the fuses aren’t easier to access. I should be able to do this. I just called a repair guy because I didn’t want to take the stupid drum off just to test the thermal fuse, as the other videos showed. Was going to be at least $200 to repair just the fuse. More if it’s the control board. I’m going to say a prayers this works.
You are a lifesaver! So happy I kept searching and found this video. I was about to not even try to replace the thermostat and thermistor as I thought I’d never get the dryer back together. But your easy access solution saved the day. Dryer is back up and running for under $20 thanks to you!
You can get the entire replacement kit for that dryer for like $50.00 off of Amazon. I know this for a fact because I have done just that for my red LG Steam mate dryer about 16 months ago! Also in the cace if you have to replace the heating element, then yes you have to disable the entire thing because of the single screw in the very front of the driver CV that's is holding the entire assembly down in the front of the platform is in accessible otherwise!
THIS is a perfect example of why I started a RUclips channel! How to and tricks to help people..... I have found so much info that helped me fix or maintain or improve scything I come across I started to basically catalog a HOW TO and do videos on all kinds of things that as I come across can help others. Thanks for sharing looks like a good hack
You sir, are a genius, your video should be at the top of the videos. Fixed in 20 min, & yes I have done the long way, about 3 hours. Also take off both the vent pipe & the side access vent option cover, put your light in the pipe opening, reach thru side access, it's closer. Thank you!
You are amazing! This video should be at the top of the search list. My dryer had plastic plugs for the alternate vent position. I still had to take the 30seconds to remove vent pipe to get to the fuse. $10 to amazon and fixed tomorrow.
Not only was there a knockout in the other side but it looks like there was a knockout in the bottom of the dryer as well... So if you wanted to turn it and go through the floor....
Hi buddy, thanks for your video. I have an LG DLEX3700V dryer that's giving me the error code TE1. I looked it up online and found that it might be a bad thermistor. I ordered a new one (model 6323EL2001B) and replaced it. I measured the resistance of the old one, which was about 8K ohms, and the new one reads around 10.8K ohms. From what I found online, the normal range should be around 11K ohms, so I think the new thermistor is fine. I also tested the round thermal fuse you mentioned in your video, and it reads 0.04 ohms, which seems normal. I took apart the vent and cleaned everything, inside and out. There’s no dust or blockage near the two sensors. After reassembling everything, I double-checked all the connections to make sure they're tight. I also measured the resistance at the yellow and blue wires leading into the control board, and it shows around 10K ohms, which means the connection to the board should be fine. Once I put everything back together, I reset the dryer by holding the start button for five seconds while it was unplugged. But when I powered it back on, it ran for a few seconds and then showed the TE1 error again. I tried restarting it a few times, but the TE1 error keeps coming up. Do you think this could be a control board issue? The board is pretty expensive, so I don’t want to buy one without being sure. Could you help me figure out how to use a multimeter to test the board and what kind of readings I should be looking for to determine if the board is bad? Thanks for your time, and I really appreciate any help you can offer!
Yep I did that on mine too! Confounding, though, is that the High Limit Thermostat/Thermal Fuse, and cycling thermostat all check out. I took the front off to get at the heating element contacts and those check out, too. But still no heat. Tumbles fine, no heat. I thought for sure it was going to be the high limit tstat.
one good reason for taking apart the dryer is to clean it while it's apart, which is the number one reason why it gets to hot to trip the thermal fuse, but this is a good short cut for quick fix
After watching this video, I think if you knew the location of the fuse, a grinder could cut through at the exact location... maybe thru the bottom!! Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the video it helped! A few notes.. 1) The thermal fuse only causes lack of heat, power still works to the rest of unit. 2) It's resettable. Push the small black button in the middle. Likely the lint trap or vent was clogged which suffocates the heater system and causes it to trip. You likely don't even need a new one.
@@RobertMoseley I work on these for a living. You don't have to take off the inner plate with rollers or the drum, but it certainly makes it easier. I can disassemble an LG dryer in a couple of minutes, this entire job 10 minutes. But I've done hundreds of them, perhaps unfair for me to say it's easy... but you definitely did it the hard way.
@@RobertMoseleyyes. You are only able to get one arm in, and you can only reach two of the four thermal components in your dryer. I didn't watch the whole video but there's no way you're going to get two arms in there with meter leads to test stuff, and you're going to cut yourself up trying. I enjoy your channel very much! However this video has potential to send people down the wrong path and probably injuring themselves trying to fix their dryers. If this was really a shortcut, technicians would be doing it and I wouldn't have written any comment.
Retired Maytag man here, dumbest most stupid & ridiculous thing ever done with appliances was to stop putting a lower front access panel on them 🤦♂
I usually don’t watch dryer videos, but when I do they’re from Videobob… 😎
I literally love you. You are an angel. I was so frustrated. Kept thinking I can’t believe the fuses aren’t easier to access. I should be able to do this.
I just called a repair guy because I didn’t want to take the stupid drum off just to test the thermal fuse, as the other videos showed. Was going to be at least $200 to repair just the fuse. More if it’s the control board.
I’m going to say a prayers this works.
Bob I know why no one has made a video like this before. It is the reason I watch all of your videos, You are one Smart Cookie. Thanks for all you do.
You are a lifesaver! So happy I kept searching and found this video. I was about to not even try to replace the thermostat and thermistor as I thought I’d never get the dryer back together. But your easy access solution saved the day. Dryer is back up and running for under $20 thanks to you!
You can get the entire replacement kit for that dryer for like $50.00 off of Amazon. I know this for a fact because I have done just that for my red LG Steam mate dryer about 16 months ago! Also in the cace if you have to replace the heating element, then yes you have to disable the entire thing because of the single screw in the very front of the driver CV that's is holding the entire assembly down in the front of the platform is in accessible otherwise!
THIS is a perfect example of why I started a RUclips channel! How to and tricks to help people..... I have found so much info that helped me fix or maintain or improve scything I come across I started to basically catalog a HOW TO and do videos on all kinds of things that as I come across can help others. Thanks for sharing looks like a good hack
You sir, are a genius, your video should be at the top of the videos. Fixed in 20 min, & yes I have done the long way, about 3 hours. Also take off both the vent pipe & the side access vent option cover, put your light in the pipe opening, reach thru side access, it's closer. Thank you!
You are amazing! This video should be at the top of the search list. My dryer had plastic plugs for the alternate vent position. I still had to take the 30seconds to remove vent pipe to get to the fuse. $10 to amazon and fixed tomorrow.
Dude! You are a time saver, cut saver and frustration saver. Thank you for your vid!!! Worked like a charm!
Not only was there a knockout in the other side but it looks like there was a knockout in the bottom of the dryer as well... So if you wanted to turn it and go through the floor....
Everyone of these video's I've seen on these dryers has been an electric dryer. Very good methods. Thanks
The manual never said thermal fuse can cause No power, most people said that fuse will cause no heat. Thanks I will try to check my gas dryer too.
U are amazing for sharing this!! I agree, why all the videos never showed this is beyond me!! So much easier then they make it!!! Thank you so much!!
Thank god I found this video!
Now I have to buy an LG dryer…
😂
You're the 2nd video I've found doing it this way !
Hi buddy, thanks for your video. I have an LG DLEX3700V dryer that's giving me the error code TE1. I looked it up online and found that it might be a bad thermistor. I ordered a new one (model 6323EL2001B) and replaced it. I measured the resistance of the old one, which was about 8K ohms, and the new one reads around 10.8K ohms. From what I found online, the normal range should be around 11K ohms, so I think the new thermistor is fine.
I also tested the round thermal fuse you mentioned in your video, and it reads 0.04 ohms, which seems normal. I took apart the vent and cleaned everything, inside and out. There’s no dust or blockage near the two sensors. After reassembling everything, I double-checked all the connections to make sure they're tight. I also measured the resistance at the yellow and blue wires leading into the control board, and it shows around 10K ohms, which means the connection to the board should be fine.
Once I put everything back together, I reset the dryer by holding the start button for five seconds while it was unplugged. But when I powered it back on, it ran for a few seconds and then showed the TE1 error again. I tried restarting it a few times, but the TE1 error keeps coming up.
Do you think this could be a control board issue? The board is pretty expensive, so I don’t want to buy one without being sure. Could you help me figure out how to use a multimeter to test the board and what kind of readings I should be looking for to determine if the board is bad?
Thanks for your time, and I really appreciate any help you can offer!
Yep I did that on mine too! Confounding, though, is that the High Limit Thermostat/Thermal Fuse, and cycling thermostat all check out. I took the front off to get at the heating element contacts and those check out, too. But still no heat. Tumbles fine, no heat.
I thought for sure it was going to be the high limit tstat.
one good reason for taking apart the dryer is to clean it while it's apart, which is the number one reason why it gets to hot to trip the thermal fuse, but this is a good short cut for quick fix
After watching this video, I think if you knew the location of the fuse, a grinder could cut through at the exact location... maybe thru the bottom!! Thanks for the video!!
Don''t be afraid to do the dis assembly/re assembly. It's easy. Change both fuses.
Thanks for the video it helped! A few notes.. 1) The thermal fuse only causes lack of heat, power still works to the rest of unit. 2) It's resettable. Push the small black button in the middle. Likely the lint trap or vent was clogged which suffocates the heater system and causes it to trip. You likely don't even need a new one.
I dont see a button on mine?
No button on mine
@@brianlangston3244 They're not resettable on most home models.
The larger one is the cycle stat the smaller one is the thermo fuse
Hey bro! I follow your suggestions and I repaired my LG. Thanks.
Holly ship. Your a genius. Thank you.
Thank you sooooooo much!!!! I was gettin ready to pull the whole thing apart😂
I am just seeing this video right after I have taken all apart and fixed it. Where was this video before! 😞
Thank you so much for this video, it showed me how to do this easily, it worked!
There is another hole in the bottom panel in the silver sheet metal literally right next to the fuse also.......
Thanks, we didn't know what the fuse looked like and he missed it.
Isnt that thermostat?
He's from pawn stars Back to the future episode
Easy as that dude you're awesome thank you!!!
Seems a bit ridiculous that folks disassemble the entire thing to get to that crappy part.
Sweet perfection thank you
Hello my sweetheart Bob ‼️AWESOME TUTORIAL 🤩🤩🤩🤩
Hi bob 👋 Manchester miss's your and your wife.
Thanks 🙌👍👌😊
Brilliant!!!
remove the knock out out of the bottom. much easier.
Dude. Thanks.
Takes maybe 15 minutes to take front and drum off no big deal
That is the hard way. Easy way is take the lid off, pop the front off. 3 minutes, you don't even have to move the dryer out from its location!
Wrong. You have to remove the lid, front plate, drum, belt and more, takes a lot more work.
This takes a few seconds.
@@RobertMoseley I work on these for a living. You don't have to take off the inner plate with rollers or the drum, but it certainly makes it easier. I can disassemble an LG dryer in a couple of minutes, this entire job 10 minutes. But I've done hundreds of them, perhaps unfair for me to say it's easy... but you definitely did it the hard way.
One screw and removing the vent is the hard way?
If it's wrong and it works, it's right! Fantastic as always!!!
@@RobertMoseleyyes. You are only able to get one arm in, and you can only reach two of the four thermal components in your dryer. I didn't watch the whole video but there's no way you're going to get two arms in there with meter leads to test stuff, and you're going to cut yourself up trying.
I enjoy your channel very much! However this video has potential to send people down the wrong path and probably injuring themselves trying to fix their dryers. If this was really a shortcut, technicians would be doing it and I wouldn't have written any comment.
It's a limit
No there not
Brilliant!!