The best of a craft...any craft.. are allways so humble! The combinatin of obvius know how a and a dow to earth approach, speach tone, and overall outlook make me really want to watch!
The only RUclips video that clearly covers this essential topic. I used to sell classic American, undarted jackets. Our older tailors were very skilled at adjusting the back balance on ready-mades. We also used this procedure to reduce fullness in the front by shortening the back balance, on a 3/2 rolled jacket.
Thanks! Balance is one of those terms which tailors mention frequently during fittings. As a customer you tend to just leave the tailor to sort it out. But I'm very glad for the explanation. The fitting is more enjoyable as a customer when you feel like you understand, at a simple level, what's going on, what adjustments are being made and why.
I am a colleague in the trade for a bit if time now and i want to sincerely thank you for sharing these valuable and charming lessons, Mr Mahon! Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
Invaluable information for someone like myself that is trying to improve the fit of my current wardrobe. It is hard to find explanations that cut so neatly to the quick, rather than offer a prescription by wrote. These insights help me begin to think about fit differently, and offer tools to evaluate issues in real time. I'm really looking forward to following along.
I believe that I require a longer back balance because every jacket I’ve put on (even made to measure) sits away from the back of my neck and the shoulder seam seems farther back than it should. This video was very helpful. Thank you!
*I STARTED PATTERN DRAFTING* from J P Thornton's book from 1895 - the adjustment for "stoop" was simply insufficient in range to accommodate my 'sitting at the computer 21st century body' And I did NOT have a bad stoop by modern standards. I actually started doing exercises to stand more erect - and my back pain went away. We are a very different shape to how we were 100 years ago...
I always have the horizontal pull lines at the base of the neck with any ready to wear jacket. Very square shouldered but also slightly forward shoulder point as well. The only fix ever offered is to release the back neck seam where it joins the collar and ease the excess fabric up into that seam. Sometimes works, sometimes not that well. Its likely that most standard ready to wear jackets are made with quite sloped shoulders I think.
I was altering a suit coat, adjusting the back, and ended up with a minor neck roll. Something shifted, any ideas? Ditto on wishing I was in Europe. Looking forward to the possible series.
I know it's just a basted fitting but I think the coat is still a bit short on the back balance. I'm sure it can be changed in the make, but I feel like it could be tweaked
This was wonderful. I’d love to see a future video explaining how you approach “drape”. There’s very little information on how it is appropriately achieved and all that goes into it. Typically you see jackets with underarm darts (not typical on traditional A&S) and one would think creating more space there would achieve more drape. However, wouldn’t you have to reshape the scye? How does the neck point and the straightness factor in? If there’s no underarm dart how does one approach drape. All of these things confuse me and I’m curious how one might draft and lean coat vs a more traditional draped chest. Thank you Tom for such great education through the years. I began reading your blog back when I was a student in college and feel like I know you so well gee over a decade! I’m super excited by this new platform. -Chris
Thanks for taking the time to show some of the finer points of Bespoke Tailoring, English Style!👞👔🎩💼 Bespoke Master Tailors✂〽📐 are true Craftsmen and Artists!🎨 Sort of Architecture for the Human Body!👞👔Once I get to the point where I can afford the expense of having Bespoke Handmade Garments, I'll have practically my whole Wardrobe Bespoke!👞👔📏📐 Thanks for posting! Cheers!👍
Absolutely superb. One of the finest people. The finest. Real. That is rare in professionals today
The best of a craft...any craft.. are allways so humble! The combinatin of obvius know how a and a dow to earth approach, speach tone, and overall outlook make me really want to watch!
The only RUclips video that clearly covers this essential topic. I used to sell classic American, undarted jackets. Our older tailors were very skilled at adjusting the back balance on ready-mades. We also used this procedure to reduce fullness in the front by shortening the back balance, on a 3/2 rolled jacket.
Thanks for sharing! Best, Tom.
@@savilerowtales One question, if you don't mind
Does sitting alter the balance of a suit?
Greetings from Spain, lovely channel
I do so wish I were in the UK. I am looking forward to following this series.
I liked that you mentioned news readers, everytime I watch the news I can't help but notice the suits and spot the bespoke from the off the peg.
Thanks! Balance is one of those terms which tailors mention frequently during fittings. As a customer you tend to just leave the tailor to sort it out. But I'm very glad for the explanation. The fitting is more enjoyable as a customer when you feel like you understand, at a simple level, what's going on, what adjustments are being made and why.
I am a colleague in the trade for a bit if time now and i want to sincerely thank you for sharing these valuable and charming lessons, Mr Mahon!
Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
Invaluable information for someone like myself that is trying to improve the fit of my current wardrobe. It is hard to find explanations that cut so neatly to the quick, rather than offer a prescription by wrote. These insights help me begin to think about fit differently, and offer tools to evaluate issues in real time. I'm really looking forward to following along.
Damn, now I wish I was in the UK. Can’t wait to see how that video series turns out!
I always enjoy these videos. I learn a lot about the science of tailoring.
Looking forward to the bespoke fitting series! Do wish I had lived in the UK
I believe that I require a longer back balance because every jacket I’ve put on (even made to measure) sits away from the back of my neck and the shoulder seam seems farther back than it should. This video was very helpful. Thank you!
We're so pleased to hear that this video was helpful to you. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Thank you so much for this lesson. This is wonderful insight.
Wish I was in the UK! 😭
Brilliant I'm looking forward to my trousers fitting in London
Great video. Beautiful material in your coat! Warmest regards.
*I STARTED PATTERN DRAFTING* from J P Thornton's book from 1895 - the adjustment for "stoop" was simply insufficient in range to accommodate my 'sitting at the computer 21st century body'
And I did NOT have a bad stoop by modern standards. I actually started doing exercises to stand more erect - and my back pain went away.
We are a very different shape to how we were 100 years ago...
As a physicist, I can see how gravity and pivotal points affect the jacket here.
Thank you for giving us a nice tip to learn
Our pleasure Sir, thank you for watching.
This is extremely interesting to watch
Did you ever do that series on a bespoke suit from start to finish or couldn't you find a volunteer? I really was dying to see that series.
We have and its coming soon. Best,
Tom.
I always have the horizontal pull lines at the base of the neck with any ready to wear jacket. Very square shouldered but also slightly forward shoulder point as well. The only fix ever offered is to release the back neck seam where it joins the collar and ease the excess fabric up into that seam. Sometimes works, sometimes not that well. Its likely that most standard ready to wear jackets are made with quite sloped shoulders I think.
I love these videos. Thank you!
How do you fix the short back balance that causes the collar to tilt backwards?
Extremely interesting as usual! Thank you
I wish you where based in the US.
I've watched a lot about Bestoke suites. You would be the tailor I would want to draft and cut a suite for me.
Any updates on the skeleton, forward fitting and etc. video? I’d love to see the entire process :)
We're getting there. A month or so. Best,
Tom.
Curious what to do if garment raises in the front but no crossing over center front. Assuming upright posture.
Sounds about right or short front balance/tight collar. Thanks for commenting.
I was altering a suit coat, adjusting the back, and ended up with a minor neck roll. Something shifted, any ideas?
Ditto on wishing I was in Europe. Looking forward to the possible series.
Dear Tom, I am so much impressed. Are you considering to do courses for people who wants to learn? I don't mean free of charge 😊.
It would be nice if the interest and time is there. Thank you for watching, Kindest regards,
Tom.
saludos desde Perú sigan adelante muy buen trabajo
Greetings from England and thank you.
Does the weight of cloth have any influence on balance please
Thanks
Dave
I know it's just a basted fitting but I think the coat is still a bit short on the back balance. I'm sure it can be changed in the make, but I feel like it could be tweaked
We can always change. Thanks for watching.
This was wonderful. I’d love to see a future video explaining how you approach “drape”. There’s very little information on how it is appropriately achieved and all that goes into it. Typically you see jackets with underarm darts (not typical on traditional A&S) and one would think creating more space there would achieve more drape. However, wouldn’t you have to reshape the scye? How does the neck point and the straightness factor in? If there’s no underarm dart how does one approach drape. All of these things confuse me and I’m curious how one might draft and lean coat vs a more traditional draped chest. Thank you Tom for such great education through the years. I began reading your blog back when I was a student in college and feel like I know you so well gee over a decade! I’m super excited by this new platform. -Chris
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Fascinating. I would have thought being erect would affect the trousers more than the coat but here we are
Forgive me but when is your shirt from ? 👍
I just clicked for Paula.
Are your shoulders machine made or hand stitched??
😁
Wish I was uk based!
A great tailor! just wished you diidnt reccomend Quearney an absolute insult to your esteemsd proffesion!!
Can you please invest £5 in a proper microphone. The audio quality of your videos is terrible, and reflects poorly on your brand.
He’s a bespoke tailor, not a sound engineer!
Thanks for taking the time to show some of the finer points of Bespoke Tailoring, English Style!👞👔🎩💼 Bespoke Master Tailors✂〽📐 are true Craftsmen and Artists!🎨 Sort of Architecture for the Human Body!👞👔Once I get to the point where I can afford the expense of having Bespoke Handmade Garments, I'll have practically my whole Wardrobe Bespoke!👞👔📏📐 Thanks for posting!
Cheers!👍