1969 GT6 - Steering Vibrations!
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2023
- I worked on this car a few times before, solving different issues, but never addressed a shake on the steering wheel that the owner was talking about. Before it was at idle and after tuning the engine the vibrations were gone, so we we didn't go deeper, however this time the vibrations are mostly at speed. So let's see what is causing them.
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#Steering #Triumph #GT6+ 
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this is a very good example of why it is challenging to work on old classics-one symptom leads to a cascade of issues.
It's definitely the case that as you film all these repairs the customer can't accuse you of skimping or bodging the job 😅.. Neither could you be accused of not being thorough .. Great work there Elin on what can often prove to be a very tricky and annoying fault to diagnose.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! So refreshing to hear someone actually saying SOLDER and SOLDERING! Where the heck did soddering come from anyway?
A lot can be learned from your repairs. Even if I don't have a Triumph, I've been watching your videos for a long time and have been able to apply some of what you show to my vehicle.
Thank you dear Elin
Your customer is very wise to bring this to you. I can't think of any shop that would fix this issue with one visit. Excellent video.
there aren't any. That's why it's practical to be able to fix our Lbc's ourselves
Been there, seen there and did the same job on my TR4a 25 years ago but pleasant to see it again.
A very clear concise video of how to remove all play from all areas of the front steering and wheel bearings! Great job Elin!
It was interesting to see on the Mk2 GT6 and presumably the TR5 that Triumph made the steering wheel more modern and safe by putting rubber or plastic covering over the previous style wheel with the wire spokes !
Nice work, hopefully the owner will neither attempt to fix things himself or go anywhere else in future! It's good to see the bookings coming in.
So glad i found that. I have the same problem on my gt6 mk3 for years. Will try that in winter time. Thank you Elin 👍
Wow, how timely. I just went through this on my 78 Spitty. I had to replace all the rubber bushings, struts and shocks, tie rod ends, and replaced the steering coupler that was worn out and sloppy. Boots (or Gators) were torn open they got replaced too and I ended up having to remove the steering rack to get the new boots back on. (What a pain) I found myself holding my breath for you while watching you reattach the boots! After I got everything back together, I did a "string alignment" and surprisingly it tracks straight as an arrow.... but I am getting just a little shimmy at 60 mph..... but I think it's crappy road conditions because it doesn't do it all the time depending on the smoothness of the pavement. Our streets are crap here in Las Vegas, Nevada .... I really enjoy your videos as I am a novice at best.
Excellent job. Worth watching for sure. Thanks!
I don't have a GT6 (yet) but think that steering column is very similar to TR4, which I have rebuilt. The outer rubber part and inner nylon normally don't come apart, so the problem was apparent as soon as you disassembled and your "fix" was on track.
See below, but your repair should work for now. The white nylon part of the bushing was still in good shape. It is often worn inside, making for a loose steering shaft.
The rubber part of the bushing is made with a couple "nubs" on the outside, that fit into the holes in the outer column to retain the bushing assembly. To remove old worn bushings, those are cut off or drilled out, allowing the bushing to be pushed out of the tube.
It appeared the lower bushing in the GT6 steering column still has the rubber nubs retaining it. But they appear to have been removed from the upper bushing, allowing it to move inside the column and come apart.
Your electrician tape fix should work... at least for a while. But it may loosen up again, so might be a good idea for the owner to get one ordered. Of course, that's their decision to make.
I don't know why one would cost $6 while another costs $43! It's a simple part with inexpensive materials. Maybe the more expensive one is made of unobtanium and sprinkled with fairy dust 😂
I've learned something from this video, I had no idea you could buy shim steel sheet! Thank You.
Great detective work. Well done video thank you
Another wonderful video Elin. I have worked on a few Spitfires and GT6 cars and they all had that cardboard tube on the steering, It seems to be some kind of locating device for the column. Oddly the Bentley manual for my GT6+ does not show this piece in their diagram.
When putting the bellows back on the passenger side it is easy to put on if you grease the knuckle and simply push the whole bellows until it clears the knuckle. It will drag itself over the knuckle and then you just pull it back until it unfolds itself. Almost fifty years of GT6 ownership has taught me a few things but I am still learning from you. I did not know that you could cut shim stock with scissors.
The steering in the Triumph was also used in Lotus Elan and Europa and here I have the past experience of the top bush near the steering wheel becoming worn. It is a cheap part, but I did not experience the vibration, but the Lotus is a much lighter car. The only other possibility would be the steering rack mounts to the chassis and the rack, which I see you have now fixed. Great job. I thought most Triumph steering was to use gear oil 90 as sometimes grease can solidify in the rack, but it is fine as long as there is lubrication. Gear oil (as I have found) is more messy for the driveway if you get a steering gaiter split.
Awesome video and work! Youre great! And a nice WRC tshirt🙂👍
That slip joint on the column is a safety feature. Triumph put that special clamp on the flat of column to allow the shaft to collapse in an accident so you don't get a rigid shaft through you chest. Another Triumph safety innovation back in the Sixties.
I've found the top column bush wears most, ( from high steering wheel forces at slow speeds in particular) or rather the shaft wears more, if you add 2 bushes 1 either side of the worn spot you can fix that and it will also have more support for the future , but you need drill extra locating holes or remove the little rubber pip that locates the bush in the outer column tube and use a little loctite .
You do good work Elin
Loved going for the ride. I do miss British sports cars. Interesting problems and fixes. Thanks, Elin!
Great example of troubleshooting through multiple sources. A very scientific approach!
Another Masterclass in troubleshooting to find the (many) problems.😊
I had the steering column nylon/rubber bushings replaced with phosphor bronze bushings, the joint at the bottom of the steering column isn't the greatest design but can be replaced with a more modern solid joint
Triumph Mastery!
Elin, thanks for telling us how to check the 'tension' on the steering rack tie-rods; movable, but not 'floppy'.
Great content as usual
Elin, that’s how you stay in the fight. Great job on diagnosing! 🎅🎅
Steering wheel shake or wobble has nothing to do with the bearings on the shaft, its coming from the wheels up. Yes it has some play in the column but tightening it up is only gonna make the shaking worse. If there was no action or force being applied to a shaft it will not move no matter how sloppy it is in its bearings. There is some kind of vibration (Wheel balance) being sent through the steering linkage. I am guessing out of balance, and or a loose ball joint. (or can also come from wore tires , try checking the tire tread for cupping).
Aaannd watching further into the video you figured it out lol.
Great video Elin. For your information I have found that making a plastic or thin aluminium cone and using a little silicone grease allows the difficult steering to glide on effortlessly. You might want to try this.
HI check the tire runout, in my day they had a tire lathe to cut rubber off to make it run true, you probably know this but manufactures mark the inside of the wheel to match the runout dot on the tires. no amount of balancing will help if the tire and the wheel are not in sync.
Good luck Rich
My guess was those horseshoe clamps that hold the steering rack to the frame. Damn it, wrong again!
Another good one.
Thanks 😊
Elin, this is only the second one of your videos that I have watched. I have seen you many times on The Chef’s channel. I have to say that this was one of the best videos I have seen of diagnosing a problem and then going through the necessary steps to solve the problem. Having been a home hobbyist mechanic for close to fifty years I know that this is typical of what one goes through when addressing an issue where several different factors may be contributing to the problem. What a great job and super video documentation. Hats off to you. I will be subscribing and will become a Patreon for sure! Lin
Hi Elin, that whole video was really clear in the respect of how to get the inevitable play out of rack ends. Very very good and I’m sure a lot of people will find that helpful. Thanks again buddy! 🙏
Nice Spitfire in the corner. Hopefully there isn’t too much wrong with it! ;-)
Useful and entertaining video as usual. My experience with these Triumph steering columns is that the rubber bushes can be a problem to put in and out, so was very surprised to see the loose fit on that GT6. I think an issue with the design is that if not changed when worn, the steel sleeve which surrounds the nylon part can damage the shaft itself. When I bought my 4A forty-five years ago I found that someone had run three beads of weld down the shaft to take out wear in the bearing ! I recently fitted a set of the expensive "uprated" type... I found them hard to install and when done, the squeeze of the outer column had reduced the bearing ID, so it needed careful reaming before the inner shaft would fit.
Process of elimination ! Well done sir i have learned so much from you and your videos btw wheres Rusty been ?
Another great video as always. I really enjoy seeing how you think your way through a problem. You mentioned how the speedometer is not calibrated properly on this car. It would be amazing to see you do a video on calibrating a speedo. Mine is off and i haven't found any good resources yet on how to tackle this problem. Keep up the great work!
The solder on those switches doesn't last forever! 54 years is pretty good!
My 1972 TR6 after 2 years from new smoked from the blinker when I was taking a potential buyer for a test drive. Dad was buying it for her graduation and she didn't mention it to him.......Now I know why that happened....
rebuildable steering rack . Awesome.
That bushing should have had a rubber pip on that locates it in hole in the tube and stops it sliding or spinning, if you buy a replacement it ought to have the locating pip.
Have you tried taking a strip of .5 shim and wrap it around the knuckle in a conical fashion, grease it lightly, then push the boot over, then pull out the shim once over. I have also done it using a section of detergent bottle.
previously, I've used greased popsicle sticks between the joint and the boot, still not easy but, easier
My 71 Spitfire has the same shimmy at around 3500 rpm in 4th gear but smooths out at 4000 or so. There is also a harmonic vibration at all speeds which I think is from the aftermarket exhaust that was bent wrong from the supplier. It also smooths out somewhat at around 4000. Where did you buy Your shim stock? they are available from Moss in .002" & .010" But I like the idea of .005". Really like your videos & the way that you present them. Keep them coming!
at 25.48 - Elin, that wheel is as bent as a corkscrew!
The green hornet.....done 😊
The cardboard tube is present from factory. No one knows quite what it was for, perhaps some assembly aid.
Between 100 and 110 km/h the steering wheel is vibration, it´s most from the tires or the brake disc.
So much access with the bonnet up, compared with most modern cars. Another interesting, diagnostic and repair video. Where did you get all the knowledge about old British cars from?
When are you going to restart/finish your GT6??? I love those cars, had 2 of them in the late 80's! One a driver and the second for auto cross. Wish I could afford one now!
DonM
A grease gun you can get them from a Old Market where they sell old tools you can get small ones you can get once a little bit longer you just put the grease inside the gun and a news does where you want the grease you just push down and it was spread the
Seems like it's crying out for an extra gear , but that's what cars were like back then , i can remember vauxhall victors with a 3 speed column change ,they looked nice , coke bottle styling, but a 3 speed ? What were they thinking of.
Are you in Ontario? I travel to London On. very often. I have friends there. I would love to stop by your shop and talk about Triumphs. I have a 78 Spitfire I am restoring and would love some of your expert advice. Love your videos! -Dan
❤
In the day I used to put oil in the steering racks. I wonder if thick heavy weight oil is better then grease ?
Hi, have you try to heat a little the plastic of the gaiter (with heat gun maybe) before to put it back? Of course, the grease shoudt be push in the other side, or put in withe a seringe maybe.
Hi Elin, think you’ve used the previous video title on this one?
Woops… thanks
Always more than one problem
I don't think you commented on the fact that the front tyres didn't match! Passenger side is Michelin but driver's side totally different - looked like a rotational tread. Could this assymetry cause vibrations?
World famous "Hairdressers Car."
The people who did the tire&wheel balancing did not do a very professional job. Four (4) tire weights total should be used; two (2) of equal weight on the inside edge of the rim and two (2) of equal weight on the outside edge of the rim. That way the tire is both statically and dynamically balanced.
Your steering column and your steering wheel are on the wrong side your spoke steering wheel you're free spoke should be the other way round
In your test drive shots you look like you are 'riding' the clutch which is a bad idea.