Hey there Bill glad you got the old girl running again. Interesting, the way you took it apart then hit it with a hammer. I felt like doing that without taking it apart. Regards Terry (donor)
I've just picked up a GWR version. Upon opening it, I found it was in pretty good condition. However, the weight has started to degrade and deform, resulting in flakes and dust entering the motor. I've now filed and cleaned the weight and serviced and cleaned everything else and it runs well. I agree with you that the three-part body assembly is a bit of a pain - particularly when re-assembling. Hopefully the weight won't deteriorate further. I shall keep a close eye! Keep up the good work.
Good work as ever Bill. They all have a cracked rear buffer beam in my experience, it’s a design fault. I think the black one runs better because it has been “breathed on” more recently. It has the wrong decal, a coach roundel not a lion on wheel symbol and it should be carrying plates numbered 9420 according to my 1979/80 catalogue. So when the owner repainted it they probably serviced it, in a fashion.
I have 3 of these that were cheap as chips, however they really do deliver and keep battling on - the under body tends to be a bit Flimsy, and I find that bit across the rear buffer beam can often be cracked or broken, but easily fixed. In regard to looks and Quality, I would rather take 10 of these Every time, as opposed to spending £200 on just 1 Locomotive😮- definite VFM imho - Gr8 Vid Again Bill 👍🏻🙏🏻✨
Nice that you give a very honest information on the condition of the models that you put on E-bay. And that you reiterated the point as well. . Although I do like most GWR locos, I'm not too keen on this desogn, I think it's because the smokebox extends in front of the tanks, makes it look odd to my eyes. I had the Hornby/Tri-an GWR Pannier tak loco in the 1970s it was my frist electric powered train set, GWR Pick up goods, ... enjoy your videos, look forward to more progress on the new layout.
Hi Bill. The weight on the GWR engine possible has a touch of mazak rot and may need a bit more taking off to make it an easier fit. Pity you did not put the extra pick ups on them as you did with J50. The Lima engines have quite an impressive hauling power as can be seen with the BR one.
I have the one on BR black. The weight can also swell on the King class. I filed mine down. I have always found Lima to be reliable. Good to see these engines returned to working order. Cheers Paul.
Another great tutorial and a timely one as I am just about to work on my j94 that has been lying in a cupboard for years. I just wanted to ask you about the body screw because mine is missing. Could you tell me if it is a self tapper or a bolt and what its length and thickness is please?
I've got two of these models I got cheap for the oo gauge layout at Bressingham Steam Museum, and I can say they're the worst model I've tried to service so far 😂 They're absolutely the best to reassemble once the weight decides to expand and push the already flimsy body apart. Alright, they're good enough heavy runners that'll pull a bit but the bodies are just all crumbly and crap when the metal weight expands and breaks it.
The drive gear wheels aren't conductive and the gear never touches the track. The issue is if points are just slightly uneven then one of the conductive wheels (especially the middle ones which aren't connected to the rods) get lifted and if the other is over the frog it can kill the pickup.
I don't understand why you didn't research how the kit is meant to be built first. These kits weren't cheap to buy and it's a pity it was constructed the way it has been. Clearly needs stripping back to bare metal and repainting.
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Hey there Bill glad you got the old girl running again. Interesting, the way you took it apart then hit it with a hammer. I felt like doing that without taking it apart. Regards Terry (donor)
Very nice locos. Love your terminology in repairing these locos. Enjoyed yet another video.
Nice work.
A bit of gentle persuasion with a hammer.
Perfect.
Well done.
Mon
Another great tutorial 👍
Got two myself. With an extra pick-up and some weight they are super runners.
Adding extra pick ups makes a great improvement to these models for anyone looking to bid for them. Thanks for video Bill.
Very good repair video 👍
I've just picked up a GWR version. Upon opening it, I found it was in pretty good condition. However, the weight has started to degrade and deform, resulting in flakes and dust entering the motor. I've now filed and cleaned the weight and serviced and cleaned everything else and it runs well. I agree with you that the three-part body assembly is a bit of a pain - particularly when re-assembling. Hopefully the weight won't deteriorate further. I shall keep a close eye! Keep up the good work.
Good work as ever Bill. They all have a cracked rear buffer beam in my experience, it’s a design fault. I think the black one runs better because it has been “breathed on” more recently. It has the wrong decal, a coach roundel not a lion on wheel symbol and it should be carrying plates numbered 9420 according to my 1979/80 catalogue. So when the owner repainted it they probably serviced it, in a fashion.
I have 3 of these that were cheap as chips, however they really do deliver and keep battling on - the under body tends to be a bit Flimsy, and I find that bit across the rear buffer beam can often be cracked or broken, but easily fixed. In regard to looks and Quality, I would rather take 10 of these Every time, as opposed to spending £200 on just 1 Locomotive😮- definite VFM imho - Gr8 Vid Again Bill 👍🏻🙏🏻✨
Thanks for your honest views about the locomotives value
Nice that you give a very honest information on the condition of the models that you put on E-bay. And that you reiterated the point as well. . Although I do like most GWR locos, I'm not too keen on this desogn, I think it's because the smokebox extends in front of the tanks, makes it look odd to my eyes. I had the Hornby/Tri-an GWR Pannier tak loco in the 1970s it was my frist electric powered train set, GWR Pick up goods, ... enjoy your videos, look forward to more progress on the new layout.
Hi Bill. The weight on the GWR engine possible has a touch of mazak rot and may need a bit more taking off to make it an easier fit. Pity you did not put the extra pick ups on them as you did with J50. The Lima engines have quite an impressive hauling power as can be seen with the BR one.
I spent an hour and a half filing the weight into shape on mine.
I have the one on BR black. The weight can also swell on the King class. I filed mine down. I have always found Lima to be reliable. Good to see these engines returned to working order. Cheers Paul.
Another great tutorial and a timely one as I am just about to work on my j94 that has been lying in a cupboard for years. I just wanted to ask you about the body screw because mine is missing. Could you tell me if it is a self tapper or a bolt and what its length and thickness is please?
Love the Haymarket depot castle emblem on the BR one.
Along with the 45xx Prairie, these would be vastly improved with a CD motor conversion
Good work Bill always a pleasure to watch
Good little runners Bill, have you ever added a capacitor to help keep 0-6-0's running over hornbys point work?
I actually have a couple of the ones from HobbyTrax on order to test.
I've got the one in black came in a trainset with a lima deltic
Lima double deluxe set. With gantry signal and level crossing. I have the earlier version with the green western instead of the deltic.
I've got two of these models I got cheap for the oo gauge layout at Bressingham Steam Museum, and I can say they're the worst model I've tried to service so far 😂 They're absolutely the best to reassemble once the weight decides to expand and push the already flimsy body apart. Alright, they're good enough heavy runners that'll pull a bit but the bodies are just all crumbly and crap when the metal weight expands and breaks it.
good vid nice work thanks lee
I have one of these Bill. Misplaced the weight so I will pay attention to what you have then look for it around here
The pick-up on points is caused by the drive gear on the wheel being too large so it gets lifted by the frog.
The drive gear wheels aren't conductive and the gear never touches the track. The issue is if points are just slightly uneven then one of the conductive wheels (especially the middle ones which aren't connected to the rods) get lifted and if the other is over the frog it can kill the pickup.
This seems to be a major problem on Hornby points. I noticed it particularly on my Mainline GWR Collet 0-6-0.
Ok so I have that weight but it wasn’t clear how to get it back in. Must look at that other body part
Regarding tilting bodies, have you ever tried correcting the lopsided stances of the Hornby Class 29, Class 37 and Hymek?
I have these.
I don't understand why you didn't research how the kit is meant to be built first. These kits weren't cheap to buy and it's a pity it was constructed the way it has been. Clearly needs stripping back to bare metal and repainting.
They aren't kits, aren't metal and don't need repainting. Maybe your comment was meant for some other video??
@@oobill Oops - quite right Bill - sorry for the confusion- must need new glasses!!!😁
Stoppystartyitis. Classic😂