For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Finally! Even though I'm not in the market for either of those saws, I love the way you went about the review! Long term, real world use and an honest assessment of the performance and individual quirks that could be a deal breaker for some folks. I'd love to see more of this.
Thanks for the review, I've had the Makita for years . I just went on Amazon and snagged the Skil for $458.00 . Worm drive, rear handle and left cut is enough reason for me to switch ! As far as cord storage, noooo problem here. The first thing I do with EVERY corded saw I purchase is to chop the cord off to 8" or less and put a twist-lock end on it 😊👊
Not just DeWalt Lou Cifer. Don't be fooled by one number on the battery pack. Most of the companies newer li-ion batteries use the high density 20700 cells so are much of a muchness with slight differences in how they package/manage the energy available. Some are moving (as will they all eventually) to even more hard core 21700 cells. Bosch's new ProCores use these. So whilst they're still 18v, they can deliver a sustained 90-100amps (amps x volts = 1620w +). 2 of those paired could easily supply the 2800 watt needed for a beam saw. And, like Milwaukee and Metabo, Bosch have a 12 ah (amp-hour, not to be confused with amps) endurance pack coming out later this year. So in short, any of the big brands have battery packs available now or coming very soon that could run a beam saw. Not just DeWalt, clever as the FlexVolt is.
Hey Kyle awesome review, last week I bought a old 1990 Makita Beam saw this thing is a beast. I don’t think I’m going to use this so often but I’m looking forward to try it. 😉😅 like always fantastic content 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻👍🏻👊🏻👌🏻
Have had a Makita 10+ years. We use them for 5.25 PSL headers for mostly flush header flatroof modern homes. If i could trust the brand Skill to holding up durability wise i might have to try one. We use Makita everything tho so im biased, but it also means that they last. Ive had the same Impact as well ever since Makita came out with them and on the 3rd set of brushes.
A timberframing company (or one of the organizations, I don't remember anymore) used to make an aftermarket base for the Makita. Big improvement, but MAN is the wormdrive an improvement, especially in hardwood.
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this shedbuilder.work Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!
I hear you about the guard. The guard on the makita has always been an issue for me and as you said I always have to hold the guard up when I go to make my cut.
5lbs lighter, left side blade, nice grip for left hand, worm drive, magnesium plate, less cost, all great reasons for the skilsaw. I don’t care about the dumb cord location. Great video. Thanks!
I use the Makita at work everyday to cut 6” metal insulated panels....works like a champ...holding the guard back is not awkward at all unless you are inexperienced....I ripped 67 feet in one shot of IMP never had the dust get in the way of my line
Just wondering... how do you stay current on the latest and greatest? I'm a Technical Architect for a living, which means that I run software development teams. Probably the hardest thing to do (aside from educate the client) is to stay current with the latest and greatest tech. Not just learning it, but learning it well enough so that I then know whether it's worth adopting for the next project... use it, or just keep on using the tried-and-true stuff already in the toolbox that has a track record and is a known commodity. How do you do that for your gig? Conferences? Magazines? Websites? Blogs? Ever tried something new that didn't work out as expected? On that note... in my world, knowing what not to do is almost more important than knowing what to do, so we spend a lot of time doing postmortems on failed projects... sharing with others the "we did this and woah did it screw us over and this is how" stories to help others in our field learn from our mistakes. Ever had anything go really, really wrong on you? Real "well that's not at all how I expected that to go" moments? Care to share them sometime? Again, thanks for doing what you're doing... very interesting and engaging!
The thing I like about the Makita is, they last forever. Bad thing about the Makita, as you pointed out, dust port on wrong side plus, direct drive vs the worm drive. Worm drive IS the only way to go when it comes to any circular saw. I do have 2 skilsaw wormdrives, love them, base should be better but, nothing beats them. Thanks for the review, cheers :)
I haven't found Makitas to be as durable as others have found, and there's always something a bit "off" with their ergonomics. Makita products remind me of a Mitsubishi (Dodge Ram 50) truck I had-- fair to good longevity, crappy egronomics. For my daily driver 7-1/4 saw, I go with Porter-Cable, but I've had good luck with Skil with other power tools. I'd definitely go with the Skil if I needed a beam saw.
As a contractor cutting often large beams, you should check out/ test the big capacity Mafell saws! Very expensive, but worth the money for traditional frame builders!
Great Review, I was considering buying the Maikita, but thin I will go with the Skilsaw. Unfortunately the last 4 year has seen a dramatic increase in price with the Skilsaw now as of 2 November 2023 right at $700.00 and the Makita at $1100.00 Sheesh!
Ya know, This was a great review. I think my mind is made up. I used a Makita years ago to cut a giant slab for a mantel, no complaints,but back then it was the only one available. I saw the Skilsaw at my local tool repair shop that sells tools as well.I am a big Skil fan and am very happy with the 7 1/4 and the 10" This new Skilsaw will make cutting giant 6'' maple slabs much easier. Thanks for the review.
I just got my first beam saw, the skill. My question for you is doing rips on beams is there a blade you prefer over the 32T that comes with the saw. Yes, they are priceless, but when someone shows on the job site with one they almost always know what they’re doing. Thanks for the review.
Only thing I wish it had is a swing table like its cousin the bigfoot brand that retrofits on a bosch or skill worm drive. But it definitely looks a little easier to handle and a much stouter base plate. Great review
Good review Kyle, As a follow up video what about care and maintenance of each saw. Are the motors brushless? Cost of brushes? How easy is it to replace the blades. Is the gearbox in the Skill saw sealed? do you need to change the oil if so how often? Once again thanks for all the videos over the years
No one offers a brushless circ saw yet. Modern carbon brushes last a long time and are easy to inspect and replace. Brushes can run as low as 8 bucks a pair or maybe double if you buy from a local repair shop. Wormdrive gearbox is sealed and oil is normally for life of a brushset or longer on the Skilsaws. Most important wear item is the expensive 16 inch carbide blade. The Skilsaw ships with a Freud Diablo blade or it used to as Skil was owned by Bosch group and so was (and still is) Freud. The teflon like blade coatings are important to keep binding and friction down as both these saws are underpowered due to 15A max motor draw. Clean that green wood pitch off the blade to stop binding and smoking cuts. Make sure your blades are sharp and not missing teeth. New blades more that 100 bucks but they can be sharpened professionally to redress the teeth. Buy a cordless chainsaw to save bucks if you don't need the glass smooth cutlines in your work. You can buy chansaw guiderails for cheap to help with miters etc.
Michael Patish We blow out our saws EVERY Day !!- Before puttin Them to bed ! We clean all the saws on Friday ! Before puttin then to bed for the weekend !- blades are the same to change ! Just U have to have the saw sittin sideways w/a beam ! Can’t lay them in their sides ( Makita ) Cause U WILL bend the base plate !!!!- Makita n Skol have brushes !!- the rotor of their motors are 4 times bigger than a regular saw !-The Skol has to be greased ! Just like all worm drives !! They are Beasts !! Holding the Makita at waist level ! N starting it !!- will torque Your wrist !- n scare Anyone ! Sittin them on a beam n starting !- no torque !- Very little kickback !-none - Really cause the blade is buried in the beam !- the motor will stall !- Can smell them burning up w/Tha New Guys !!- But The saws keep living on !! Only times we have burned them up !!- Oak beams ! - Hardest Wood Brazilian Epi !! TeXaS Summers !! Go see the Houston Gorilla Exibit !!- Almost a year !! 🖖
That worm drive skilsaw looks so delicious! I bought a 12" beamsaw right after watching this video. Neither of these models are available in India, so I had to buy the only 12" model on offer. The skilsaw clearly wins this in my opinion. I've done jobs with poorly designed/abused/broken tools at times. Use what you have at hand to earn today, until you can afford to pay for a tool that will pay for itself many times over. 👍 Is it fun using ill-suited tools to finish real jobs on a deadline? Hell, NO!! It is painfully frustrating knowing you could have done this or that so much faster. But does it teach you things you wouldn't have learnt otherwise? YES Thanks for the comparison! 👍👍
Great review man. Being a welder/fabricator for the past 43 years and counting, I don't have much need for a "beam" saw, but I am currently putting together a little post and beam building out of wood, and funny I could use one of these...LOL! Your metal subscriber... Razor!
I've been using the skil worm drive since the 80's. In my opinion, the strong worm gear and the left side blade beats all the games in town. I own a few others including a few strong Milwaukee standard sidewinder for rip and demo, Ass kicking saws but for go-to, it's the skil and a new Bosch worm drive which is holding up well. Also, while I'm over six up, I can only easily stretch a worm across a 4 by sheet in one push because of the blade/saw configuration. Great review man, working crew review.. For that, thank you and I trust your opinion! Cut On men!!!!
cool review! i have an 8 inch skill worm drive and it is about as heavy as i would attempt, it does make everything else feel like a feather. i use an 8 and 1/4 blade versus the stock 8 blade for a tiny bit more depth. although heavy at 18 plus pounds, it has roughly same footprint as smaller worm drives and comparable cost...
I’ve run the older gold version of the Makita saw from the 80’s. Used it for 17 years, every few years the armature needs to be re-wound, direct drive motor is underpowered when ripping timbers. I’ve always run my worm drive 7-1/4 first when ripping to give a guide/channel for the big saw. Even then ripping with the Makita takes 2-3 passes at different depths to not cook the motor. The design of the saw goes out of square often, especially if moved around, or you place it on the ground the wrong way. The guard is awful, I’ve gotten used to holding the guard open, and gripping the top housing rather than the side handle provided. Also the dust shoot blows right in your face especially when ripping, even gotten past my safety glasses. All in all it’s been a necessary tool if your a timber framer/ restoration contractor. That being said my go-to is the skil mag77 or any of that variant. Now that they have a 16” version I’ll upgrade!
Just bought my Sawsquatch. The price has gone up considerably over the past two years but found one on sale for about the price you quoted in the video.
Skilsaw work drives and sidewinders also have a "clutch" type arbor that in a kickback situation, it will allow the blade to slip on the arbor to mitigate the kickback. I've never had the blade slip while cutting even at full depth but in a binding situation it will allow slip as long as you follow the directions on how much you torque the arbor bolt. If you tighten too much you lose the clutch slip ability.
There's a Hitachi beam saw sitting in the shed here. It got used at a timber laminate factory and it got ridden hard and put away wet god knows how many times. It got written off after one of the boys dropped it and bent the base plate. I need to take to it with some panel hammers at some stage and it'll go another round. They also have 24 inch 3 phase beam saws as well, which have their own trolley and are a 2 man job to lift and use, especially when ripping 8x2 and 10x2 laminated beams
I don't like having my circular saw in a bag either so I made a wood mount for my bag. I cut a peice of plywood to a 12 inch bigger than my circular saw base and cut a hole with my circular saw blade to put the blade into the wood. I glued 1/2 inch pieces of wood around the edges on top and put wood underneath the bottom of the plywood to prevent the bag from touching the blade, lifting the saw base. I have space under the saw and I put a hand held brush and dust pan and a few things like a pencil, square and tape measure that I need with my saw. I basically took a soft bag and made it a hard case, specifically for my circular saw. My life is easier since I did this cause I use it alot and I can put my saw in my truck bed and it's safe if it tips over cause I kinda overbuilt it to prevent damage but it's lite enough to grab and go, while having everything I need to use my saw in one bag. I even have a knife for cutting straps off lumber or to sharpen my pencil. I just thought I would share this to give someone else a idea to store they're circular saw and to prevent damage to it and having everything in one bag from measuring tape, square and pencil.
Hola. Gracias por el video comparativo. ¿podrías darnos tu opinión respecto al uso de algunas motosierras para este tipo de corte? De antemano gracias.
Nice video, your correct on everything. I have the skilsaw which I love. We are deck builders and it makes our work lives much easier. One thing, I feel the blade is not so good. I will replace with a Freud blade.
For your standard circular saw, having the blade on the right isn’t too bad as far as visibility. When your blade is 16 inches, I think a blade left is much better.
Great review! Nothing like a honest review of a product you actually use. Would never buy it or need it, but who doesn't like a saw that large. They chose a great name to describe that beast. Give Makita credit though since they were one of the first. Because of that people who needed that large of a saw probably already bought the Makita. If I was using that type of saw I would definitely buy the skilsaw just for the improved safety enhancements.
Put them against a Mafell HKS185 if you ever get the chance I’d be interested to know what you think. Neither of the saws you tested are available in Europe so it looks like I will have to buy a Mafell at big money.
I maybe different than everyone else but, I'm right handed, and when I'm cutting anything, I'm always looking at my cut and the line I'm cutting on the inside of the saw. Meaning, I'm looking in the opening of the right hand side of my saw, that's where the outside of my line is and that's where I want to make sure I'm cutting, on the left hand side of the line. Because my usable lumber is always on my right. That's where I want to guide my saw blade. I guess you could look at the left hand side of your cut but, I always use that little opening on the right hand side, so, if the Skilsaw has the exhaust port right in the way, it would be a pain for me. But I really like the fact that you can attach a vacuum to it. The Mikita saw is a poor design right out of the gate.
Love it brother . Would have been great to have this over the weekend . Was cutting some 7x7 bean with a regular skillsaw lol . Too many cuts . Love the channel brother
I’ve had a Makita for years, I’m left handed so the blade is on the side I want but I agree with the dust fan, on one side you get the blade dust and on the other the motor fan blows in your face. I keep meaning to put a deflector on it. There is no kickback and I don’t have any problems with the guard. I’ve repaired them a couple of times and is not too difficult. I rip with them but it is a little slow mostly because there aren’t any good ripping blades.
Also have the Makita and am left handed, but find it to be a strongly right handed tool- very awkward for left handers. The cross cuts in 6x material are amazing 'tho, and I got it for free so there's that. Polish and wax the blade!!
As a tool guy I would love to have one. I don’t know what I would use it for. But it is better to have it and not need it. Then to need it and not have it. 😂😂😂 If only I could get my wife to believe that.😂😂😂. Thanks for the video.
Great review. My go-to saw is a 35 year old wormdrive Skilsaw that I bought new. It's hefty since it's pre-magnesium base, but is like a handheld table saw in my opinion. I also have a Makita sidewinder that rarely gets used. The new guys start with that one. I would pick the large Skilsaw for two of the reasons you highlighted- cut line visibility and a way to safely retract the blade guard on the few occasions that are necessary.
I use to have the Makita bean saw back in the late 90's when I was putting up log homes. But now at 78 not sure if I want to use such a large saw anymore. Ron USCG RET
Just a thought. My normal sized corded circular saw has the same power rating as these saws, in theory, could you take the blade, frame and blade guards/housing off so you are just left with the unit and a spindle then either fashion a new frame, sole plate and guaurd or even buy the makita or skillsaw bits as spare parts and put the big blade on it? Now obviously theres safety to think about but really whats the difference between these very expensive saws and a powerfull normal sized one except the blade and meytal frame parts?
The TFG used to sell a bigger/better base for the makitas - but without that better base I’d go for the skill saw. I use my 10.25” milwaukeee more and sometimes just finish the middle with a hand saw when I don’t feel like lugging the bigger saw to a remote location.
Does it cut square? I have the 10" skilsaw wormdrive and the blade wobble is so bad it cuts about 3/16" out of square on 4" because it's a thin kerf blade! I'm waiting for some custom made thicker blades to arrive soon. Just curious?! Love your videos, Thanks!
Great great review! I have a Makita I picked up on Ebay several years ago. It didn't come with the case/base to carry it on so yes it gets tossed around my trailer and truck bed. I'm always amazed at the accuracy and the ability to shave off marginal cuts trim a 6x6 for length though. I find myself fighting the guard just like you mentioned. This is the only saw I use that's not a worm drive or blade on left...I'll be getting a Skil, kudos for an awesome review and bringing it to my attention!
john doe Makita can’t hold its own weight if laid over !!!! We have built 16” stools !!- Bungie cord them at lunch ! The plastic case is invaluable !! 🖖
For me, the ideas in ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAfqpMLyFn37qcqUl0FAzqkkycQeXqrhP Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
Finally! Even though I'm not in the market for either of those saws, I love the way you went about the review! Long term, real world use and an honest assessment of the performance and individual quirks that could be a deal breaker for some folks. I'd love to see more of this.
Mike Guerrieri stay tuned man.
@@RRBuildings awesome!
One thing I like is this guy doesn't brag himself up he just gets right into it.
👍👍👍👍thanks, got to borrow the skilsaw this weekend to cut 14- 6x6's.
You and the loaner pretty much sealed my decision what to buy.
Thanks for the review, I've had the Makita for years . I just went on Amazon and snagged the Skil for $458.00 . Worm drive, rear handle and left cut is enough reason for me to switch ! As far as cord storage, noooo problem here. The first thing I do with EVERY corded saw I purchase is to chop the cord off to 8" or less and put a twist-lock end on it 😊👊
Great review, these reviews are very important to me. Nice to have your honest non biased thoughts.
I have an old miter saw with a 16 5/16 blade. I use it all the time, will cut 6x6 on a 45°. Got it for $9 at an online auction.
Thanks. The left and right angle , 200 rpm , the holding of the shroud was a real help for me , oh and $100 savings. Very good presentation
Next time you're in Deutschland: Mafell. To paraphrase Crocodile Dundee: "That's not a beam saw. THIS is a beam saw."
I don’t need to travel any further than Chicago. 👍. “That’s not a tracksaw”. 👌
No thanks, at 5 times the price of the next brand, only Elon Musk can afford the Mafell...😁 so no thanks!!!
I like these tuesday videos , whether they are unboxings or actual reviews. Keep it up
Jake S. Thank you
2:05 I don't see us having any battery technology in the near future that's going to make one of these cordless. Milwaukee..."Hold my beer."
Panhead49EL gotta push them right
Milwaukee 12mha
The only company who could make this cordless is Dewalt wth 2 60v batteries
Not just DeWalt Lou Cifer. Don't be fooled by one number on the battery pack. Most of the companies newer li-ion batteries use the high density 20700 cells so are much of a muchness with slight differences in how they package/manage the energy available. Some are moving (as will they all eventually) to even more hard core 21700 cells. Bosch's new ProCores use these. So whilst they're still 18v, they can deliver a sustained 90-100amps (amps x volts = 1620w +). 2 of those paired could easily supply the 2800 watt needed for a beam saw. And, like Milwaukee and Metabo, Bosch have a 12 ah (amp-hour, not to be confused with amps) endurance pack coming out later this year. So in short, any of the big brands have battery packs available now or coming very soon that could run a beam saw. Not just DeWalt, clever as the FlexVolt is.
Panhead49EL 😂😂😂😎😎💪💪
Hey Kyle awesome review, last week I bought a old 1990 Makita Beam saw this thing is a beast. I don’t think I’m going to use this so often but I’m looking forward to try it. 😉😅 like always fantastic content 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻👍🏻👊🏻👌🏻
The Mexican Carpenter awesome brother
Now this is a great tool review. Much better than seeing a new tool that has no real review behind it.
I never regret investing my time to watch your content ...strong work!
dnorwood226 thank you brother
Have had a Makita 10+ years. We use them for 5.25 PSL headers for mostly flush header flatroof modern homes. If i could trust the brand Skill to holding up durability wise i might have to try one. We use Makita everything tho so im biased, but it also means that they last. Ive had the same Impact as well ever since Makita came out with them and on the 3rd set of brushes.
I dont do this kind of work but I really enjoy your videos! The amount of effort you put into them and what you do is great!
A timberframing company (or one of the organizations, I don't remember anymore) used to make an aftermarket base for the Makita. Big improvement, but MAN is the wormdrive an improvement, especially in hardwood.
Super good review! 👍🏼👍🏼 Thanks for explaining the differences. Very thorough.
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this shedbuilder.work Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!
Good review, well balanced and you presented nothing but the facts!
Good review! Definitey like the mag base on the skil saw. Get some more build videos up.
Erik Trent for sure.
I hear you about the guard. The guard on the makita has always been an issue for me and as you said I always have to hold the guard up when I go to make my cut.
Thank you! I have no more questions which saw I am going to buy and that red blade
5lbs lighter, left side blade, nice grip for left hand, worm drive, magnesium plate, less cost, all great reasons for the skilsaw. I don’t care about the dumb cord location. Great video. Thanks!
I use the Makita at work everyday to cut 6” metal insulated panels....works like a champ...holding the guard back is not awkward at all unless you are inexperienced....I ripped 67 feet in one shot of IMP never had the dust get in the way of my line
Hey ,what blade you use ,I gotta cut sandwich panels (imp)too
Nice review, I had to cut back 6x10 rafters with a Makita saw, it felt real heavy pushing it up to make cuts
Both of these are beasts. Thanks for the side-by-side comparison.
Just wondering... how do you stay current on the latest and greatest? I'm a Technical Architect for a living, which means that I run software development teams. Probably the hardest thing to do (aside from educate the client) is to stay current with the latest and greatest tech. Not just learning it, but learning it well enough so that I then know whether it's worth adopting for the next project... use it, or just keep on using the tried-and-true stuff already in the toolbox that has a track record and is a known commodity.
How do you do that for your gig? Conferences? Magazines? Websites? Blogs? Ever tried something new that didn't work out as expected?
On that note... in my world, knowing what not to do is almost more important than knowing what to do, so we spend a lot of time doing postmortems on failed projects... sharing with others the "we did this and woah did it screw us over and this is how" stories to help others in our field learn from our mistakes.
Ever had anything go really, really wrong on you? Real "well that's not at all how I expected that to go" moments?
Care to share them sometime?
Again, thanks for doing what you're doing... very interesting and engaging!
Thanks for the clarification on the blade size being in and imperial and not metric.
The thing I like about the Makita is, they last forever. Bad thing about the Makita, as you pointed out, dust port on wrong side plus, direct drive vs the worm drive. Worm drive IS the only way to go when it comes to any circular saw. I do have 2 skilsaw wormdrives, love them, base should be better but, nothing beats them. Thanks for the review, cheers :)
I haven't found Makitas to be as durable as others have found, and there's always something a bit "off" with their ergonomics. Makita products remind me of a Mitsubishi (Dodge Ram 50) truck I had-- fair to good longevity, crappy egronomics. For my daily driver 7-1/4 saw, I go with Porter-Cable, but I've had good luck with Skil with other power tools. I'd definitely go with the Skil if I needed a beam saw.
Why is worm drive so much better if the Makita last forever and has enough power ? Just never understand why Americans love work drive .
I have the Skillsaw and love it, I hate the case wish they made an improvement on it as you I also lost a clip latch now I use a rubber bugle cord
Great review and completely agree with your observations having owned and used a Makita. Looking for a Skilsaw now ;)
Does it do well on deep rips on green wood?
What do you think about the Prazi beam cutter attachments for circular saws?
been considering purchasing for cutting 3" live edge slabs - great info and help.
Great review! Probably won't buy either but if I do I know which way I'd go!
As a contractor cutting often large beams, you should check out/ test the big capacity Mafell saws! Very expensive, but worth the money for traditional frame builders!
Could a saw like one of these be used to rip green oak/pine/yellow-poplar? Do they make specialized rip blades for them?
I watch this at 1.5 speed and its still good to watch keep it up
Great Review, I was considering buying the Maikita, but thin I will go with the Skilsaw. Unfortunately the last 4 year has seen a dramatic increase in price with the Skilsaw now as of 2 November 2023 right at $700.00 and the Makita at $1100.00 Sheesh!
Another great no nonsense video...😎
Nice review, you should try if you'll have a chance mafell mks130ec.2500W, and 130milimetres of cutting depth. Amazing timber saw
Wasn't expecting the better one to be the cheaper option. It almost never is. But very good review and video!
Kevin what do you kno
Ya know, This was a great review. I think my mind is made up. I used a Makita years ago to cut a giant slab for a mantel, no complaints,but back then it was the only one available. I saw the Skilsaw at my local tool repair shop that sells tools as well.I am a big Skil fan and am very happy with the 7 1/4 and the 10" This new Skilsaw will make cutting giant 6'' maple slabs much easier. Thanks for the review.
Your videos are gonna get expensive for me. Great review.
I just got my first beam saw, the skill. My question for you is doing rips on beams is there a blade you prefer over the 32T that comes with the saw.
Yes, they are priceless, but when someone shows on the job site with one they almost always know what they’re doing.
Thanks for the review.
Only thing I wish it had is a swing table like its cousin the bigfoot brand that retrofits on a bosch or skill worm drive. But it definitely looks a little easier to handle and a much stouter base plate. Great review
Ryan Chaffee I ONLY go w/Mag 77 !!
Lighter !!
Good review Kyle, As a follow up video what about care and maintenance of each saw. Are the motors brushless? Cost of brushes? How easy is it to replace the blades. Is the gearbox in the Skill saw sealed? do you need to change the oil if so how often? Once again thanks for all the videos over the years
No one offers a brushless circ saw yet. Modern carbon brushes last a long time and are easy to inspect and replace. Brushes can run as low as 8 bucks a pair or maybe double if you buy from a local repair shop. Wormdrive gearbox is sealed and oil is normally for life of a brushset or longer on the Skilsaws. Most important wear item is the expensive 16 inch carbide blade. The Skilsaw ships with a Freud Diablo blade or it used to as Skil was owned by Bosch group and so was (and still is) Freud. The teflon like blade coatings are important to keep binding and friction down as both these saws are underpowered due to 15A max motor draw. Clean that green wood pitch off the blade to stop binding and smoking cuts. Make sure your blades are sharp and not missing teeth. New blades more that 100 bucks but they can be sharpened professionally to redress the teeth. Buy a cordless chainsaw to save bucks if you don't need the glass smooth cutlines in your work. You can buy chansaw guiderails for cheap to help with miters etc.
Michael Patish We blow out our saws EVERY Day !!- Before puttin Them to bed !
We clean all the saws on Friday ! Before puttin then to bed for the weekend !- blades are the same to change ! Just U have to have the saw sittin sideways w/a beam ! Can’t lay them in their sides ( Makita ) Cause U WILL bend the base plate !!!!- Makita n Skol have brushes !!- the rotor of their motors are 4 times bigger than a regular saw !-The Skol has to be greased ! Just like all worm drives !!
They are Beasts !! Holding the Makita at waist level ! N starting it !!- will torque Your wrist !- n scare Anyone !
Sittin them on a beam n starting !- no torque !- Very little kickback !-none - Really cause the blade is buried in the beam !- the motor will stall !- Can smell them burning up w/Tha New Guys !!- But The saws keep living on !!
Only times we have burned them up !!- Oak beams ! - Hardest Wood Brazilian Epi !!
TeXaS Summers !!
Go see the Houston Gorilla Exibit !!- Almost a year !! 🖖
Excellent review. Really informative and objective. Well done.
Good video, :) am getting the skill one, seems like the better saw!
That worm drive skilsaw looks so delicious! I bought a 12" beamsaw right after watching this video. Neither of these models are available in India, so I had to buy the only 12" model on offer.
The skilsaw clearly wins this in my opinion. I've done jobs with poorly designed/abused/broken tools at times. Use what you have at hand to earn today, until you can afford to pay for a tool that will pay for itself many times over. 👍
Is it fun using ill-suited tools to finish real jobs on a deadline? Hell, NO!! It is painfully frustrating knowing you could have done this or that so much faster. But does it teach you things you wouldn't have learnt otherwise? YES
Thanks for the comparison! 👍👍
Digging the content... solid info backed by real-world experience. Great job, thanks for sharing!
Jeff Grant appreciate that Jeff
I'm using a Holzher RKS 2140 for a few years now. Call it The Beast. 185mm cut.
Great review man. Being a welder/fabricator for the past 43 years and counting, I don't have much need for a "beam" saw, but I am currently putting together a little post and beam building out of wood, and funny I could use one of these...LOL!
Your metal subscriber...
Razor!
I've been using the skil worm drive since the 80's. In my opinion, the strong worm gear and the left side blade beats all the games in town. I own a few others including a few strong Milwaukee standard sidewinder for rip and demo, Ass kicking saws but for go-to, it's the skil and a new Bosch worm drive which is holding up well. Also, while I'm over six up, I can only easily stretch a worm across a 4 by sheet in one push because of the blade/saw configuration. Great review man, working crew review.. For that, thank you and I trust your opinion! Cut On men!!!!
Thanks. I'm interested in your thoughts on regular sized circular saws. If you get a chance, would you make one of those reviews, please?
Like this first-hand review format - hands-on experience is far better than promo blurb!
cool review! i have an 8 inch skill worm drive and it is about as heavy as i would attempt, it does make everything else feel like a feather. i use an 8 and 1/4 blade versus the stock 8 blade for a tiny bit more depth. although heavy at 18 plus pounds, it has roughly same footprint as smaller worm drives and comparable cost...
Awesome video - thanks for posting!
Love the worm drives! Thanks for point out the blade being on the left side, perfect for us right handers.
Great presentation. Made my decision easier. Thanks.
I’ve run the older gold version of the Makita saw from the 80’s. Used it for 17 years, every few years the armature needs to be re-wound, direct drive motor is underpowered when ripping timbers. I’ve always run my worm drive 7-1/4 first when ripping to give a guide/channel for the big saw. Even then ripping with the Makita takes 2-3 passes at different depths to not cook the motor.
The design of the saw goes out of square often, especially if moved around, or you place it on the ground the wrong way. The guard is awful, I’ve gotten used to holding the guard open, and gripping the top housing rather than the side handle provided. Also the dust shoot blows right in your face especially when ripping, even gotten past my safety glasses.
All in all it’s been a necessary tool if your a timber framer/ restoration contractor. That being said my go-to is the skil mag77 or any of that variant. Now that they have a 16” version I’ll upgrade!
Just bought my Sawsquatch. The price has gone up considerably over the past two years but found one on sale for about the price you quoted in the video.
Makita could make a modern cordless version taking double 40v batteries. infact, i am waiting for exactly that.
They just announced it!
@@sv-et7gq 😮
Bought a super sawsquatch today. It's a beast, for sure. So far, so good.
Sonic Prayer heck yeah man it’s awesome
May i ask where did you buy that circular saw
Just having the dust control in a better place sold me.
Skilsaw work drives and sidewinders also have a "clutch" type arbor that in a kickback situation, it will allow the blade to slip on the arbor to mitigate the kickback.
I've never had the blade slip while cutting even at full depth but in a binding situation it will allow slip as long as you follow the directions on how much you torque the arbor bolt. If you tighten too much you lose the clutch slip ability.
Good tip!
Seeing the “regular” saw next to them is impressive but it’s comical to see you hold it at the beginning. That really put the size into perspective.
Also use the Skill, like the blade on left side for easy viewing cut. Great Video with solid tips‼️👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
Very nice vídeo! Best regards from Brazil!
There's a Hitachi beam saw sitting in the shed here. It got used at a timber laminate factory and it got ridden hard and put away wet god knows how many times. It got written off after one of the boys dropped it and bent the base plate. I need to take to it with some panel hammers at some stage and it'll go another round. They also have 24 inch 3 phase beam saws as well, which have their own trolley and are a 2 man job to lift and use, especially when ripping 8x2 and 10x2 laminated beams
I don't like having my circular saw in a bag either so I made a wood mount for my bag. I cut a peice of plywood to a 12 inch bigger than my circular saw base and cut a hole with my circular saw blade to put the blade into the wood. I glued 1/2 inch pieces of wood around the edges on top and put wood underneath the bottom of the plywood to prevent the bag from touching the blade, lifting the saw base. I have space under the saw and I put a hand held brush and dust pan and a few things like a pencil, square and tape measure that I need with my saw. I basically took a soft bag and made it a hard case, specifically for my circular saw. My life is easier since I did this cause I use it alot and I can put my saw in my truck bed and it's safe if it tips over cause I kinda overbuilt it to prevent damage but it's lite enough to grab and go, while having everything I need to use my saw in one bag. I even have a knife for cutting straps off lumber or to sharpen my pencil. I just thought I would share this to give someone else a idea to store they're circular saw and to prevent damage to it and having everything in one bag from measuring tape, square and pencil.
Hola. Gracias por el video comparativo. ¿podrías darnos tu opinión respecto al uso de algunas motosierras para este tipo de corte? De antemano gracias.
Nice video, your correct on everything. I have the skilsaw which I love. We are deck builders and it makes our work lives much easier. One thing, I feel the blade is not so good. I will replace with a Freud blade.
I don’t NEED one but I WANT one!
Christoper Moncada exactly
Nailed it
Yeah same haha I'm builder in New Zealand
Same
Who doesn't
We have the Milwaukee on the job site for cutting insulated panels and it does the job but if put against frozen butter it would be useless
For your standard circular saw, having the blade on the right isn’t too bad as far as visibility. When your blade is 16 inches, I think a blade left is much better.
Great review! Nothing like a honest review of a product you actually use. Would never buy it or need it, but who doesn't like a saw that large. They chose a great name to describe that beast. Give Makita credit though since they were one of the first. Because of that people who needed that large of a saw probably already bought the Makita. If I was using that type of saw I would definitely buy the skilsaw just for the improved safety enhancements.
Excellent review... thanks
At the thickness of stock being cut-would it be easier to use a chain saw?
Great review Kyle. Thanks for giving all of us the benefit of your real world application experience.
Great review. I wore out a makita on timber frame work. I wish i had the skill instead. I want to buy one now just to try it out.
Put them against a Mafell HKS185 if you ever get the chance I’d be interested to know what you think. Neither of the saws you tested are available in Europe so it looks like I will have to buy a Mafell at big money.
I maybe different than everyone else but, I'm right handed, and when I'm cutting anything, I'm always looking at my cut and the line I'm cutting on the inside of the saw. Meaning, I'm looking in the opening of the right hand side of my saw, that's where the outside of my line is and that's where I want to make sure I'm cutting, on the left hand side of the line. Because my usable lumber is always on my right. That's where I want to guide my saw blade. I guess you could look at the left hand side of your cut but, I always use that little opening on the right hand side, so, if the Skilsaw has the exhaust port right in the way, it would be a pain for me. But I really like the fact that you can attach a vacuum to it. The Mikita saw is a poor design right out of the gate.
Good information
Thanks
Love it brother . Would have been great to have this over the weekend . Was cutting some 7x7 bean with a regular skillsaw lol . Too many cuts . Love the channel brother
Great comparison. Skil for the win!
I’ve had a Makita for years, I’m left handed so the blade is on the side I want but I agree with the dust fan, on one side you get the blade dust and on the other the motor fan blows in your face. I keep meaning to put a deflector on it. There is no kickback and I don’t have any problems with the guard. I’ve repaired them a couple of times and is not too difficult. I rip with them but it is a little slow mostly because there aren’t any good ripping blades.
John O I have 3 NOW !!!
Left handed !!😞😤 u out an air hose in my hand n Respirator !!!!😞💀☠️
Also have the Makita and am left handed, but find it to be a strongly right handed tool- very awkward for left handers. The cross cuts in 6x material are amazing 'tho, and I got it for free so there's that. Polish and wax the blade!!
As a tool guy I would love to have one. I don’t know what I would use it for. But it is better to have it and not need it. Then to need it and not have it. 😂😂😂 If only I could get my wife to believe that.😂😂😂. Thanks for the video.
Donald Lacy gotta be a salesman
Great review, very helpful content
Great review. My go-to saw is a 35 year old wormdrive Skilsaw that I bought new. It's hefty since it's pre-magnesium base, but is like a handheld table saw in my opinion. I also have a Makita sidewinder that rarely gets used. The new guys start with that one. I would pick the large Skilsaw for two of the reasons you highlighted- cut line visibility and a way to safely retract the blade guard on the few occasions that are necessary.
I use to have the Makita bean saw back in the late 90's when I was putting up log homes. But now at 78 not sure if I want to use such a large saw anymore. Ron USCG RET
Just a thought. My normal sized corded circular saw has the same power rating as these saws, in theory, could you take the blade, frame and blade guards/housing off so you are just left with the unit and a spindle then either fashion a new frame, sole plate and guaurd or even buy the makita or skillsaw bits as spare parts and put the big blade on it? Now obviously theres safety to think about but really whats the difference between these very expensive saws and a powerfull normal sized one except the blade and meytal frame parts?
Have you used the Milwaukee 101/4” saw?
The TFG used to sell a bigger/better base for the makitas - but without that better base I’d go for the skill saw. I use my 10.25” milwaukeee more and sometimes just finish the middle with a hand saw when I don’t feel like lugging the bigger saw to a remote location.
Excellent real world review. Your doing an awesome job with the channel! Keep up the good work brother!
You can purchase a prazzi cutter for the dewalt cordless blade left rear handle
911 Handyman I have it... not nearly as clean of a cut but great for quick cut downs
Does it cut square? I have the 10" skilsaw wormdrive and the blade wobble is so bad it cuts about 3/16" out of square on 4" because it's a thin kerf blade! I'm waiting for some custom made thicker blades to arrive soon. Just curious?! Love your videos, Thanks!
Great great review! I have a Makita I picked up on Ebay several years ago. It didn't come with the case/base to carry it on so yes it gets tossed around my trailer and truck bed. I'm always amazed at the accuracy and the ability to shave off marginal cuts trim a 6x6 for length though.
I find myself fighting the guard just like you mentioned. This is the only saw I use that's not a worm drive or blade on left...I'll be getting a Skil, kudos for an awesome review and bringing it to my attention!
will mast dude if you enjoy the makita you will absolutely love the skip
john doe Makita can’t hold its own weight if laid over !!!!
We have built 16” stools !!- Bungie cord them at lunch ! The plastic case is invaluable !!
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