I'd like to offer a slight variation for your consideration. Make several reusable ½"x1½" sheet metal tie bars with 2 Cleco sized holes 1" apart. Use anytime you want flush butt welds. Drill first hole in panel approximately 1/2" from edge, install tie bar with Cleco clamp then drill through tie bar into 2nd panel and pop in 2nd Cleco. I used strapping from a bundle of lumber and made a jig to make drilling quick. To get the holes close to the edge make a 3 hole version, lay out in a flat triangle with 2" centered holes for same panel. The 3rd hole is Midway and 3/8" up, if that makes sense. Colour coding for different centers. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Cheers
Jim Marriott. This sounds like the info I need. Any chance of a picture of this triangle configuration that you are using? A picture really clears things up, thank you.
Great info and the best video I've seen so far on how to use the Clecos. When you Tig weld the panels , are you just fusion welding the two pieces together, or are you using a small filler rod ? I'm going to try a couple of welding methods with your instructions. I want to try acetylene gas fusion welding and Tig fusion welding just to see how it turns out. I prefer no filler rod if I don't need it, that way there is no extra heat introduced when grinding off welds. Hopefully I can get the perfect "no gap" butt weld. I think Jim Marriot was talking about the Cleco Bridge Clip style of attaching two pieces of metal together. I saw Lazze using these on one of his videos. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the knowledge !!
The flange edge /joggle tool is like 20 bucks. Just buy the tool and have a dead accurate overlap seam. Or do a actual buttweld without the clecos. No need for both. That approach demonstrated, being able to manipulate those tabs before and after, is pretty unlikely on your standard patch panel work. 90% of the time one piece is still fixed to the vehicle with limited working space.
thank you for that. im about to weld my first patch and I didn't want to use a full lap. this will allow me to use the clecos and still have a flush butt weld.
I'd like to offer a slight variation for your consideration. Make several reusable ½"x1½" sheet metal tie bars with 2 Cleco sized holes 1" apart. Use anytime you want flush butt welds. Drill first hole in panel approximately 1/2" from edge, install tie bar with Cleco clamp then drill through tie bar into 2nd panel and pop in 2nd Cleco. I used strapping from a bundle of lumber and made a jig to make drilling quick. To get the holes close to the edge make a 3 hole version, lay out in a flat triangle with 2" centered holes for same panel. The 3rd hole is Midway and 3/8" up, if that makes sense. Colour coding for different centers. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Cheers
Jim Marriott. This sounds like the info I need. Any chance of a picture of this triangle configuration that you are using? A picture really clears things up, thank you.
Jim Marriott in
Whoa! Very clever! I'm a septuagenarian and I learned something new today! Thanks very much! You are a very good instructor! You've motivated me!!!
Разумный подход к решению некоторых задач..... спасибо.
Great info and the best video I've seen so far on how to use the Clecos. When you Tig weld the panels , are you just fusion welding the two pieces together, or are you using a small filler rod ? I'm going to try a couple of welding methods with your instructions. I want to try acetylene gas fusion welding and Tig fusion welding just to see how it turns out. I prefer no filler rod if I don't need it, that way there is no extra heat introduced when grinding off welds. Hopefully I can get the perfect "no gap" butt weld. I think Jim Marriot was talking about the Cleco Bridge Clip style of attaching two pieces of metal together. I saw Lazze using these on one of his videos. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the knowledge !!
So after you perform the but weld on the joint with the clecos and tabs in place . What do you do to eliminate the tabs and complete the weld?
The flange edge /joggle tool is like 20 bucks. Just buy the tool and have a dead accurate overlap seam. Or do a actual buttweld without the clecos. No need for both. That approach demonstrated, being able to manipulate those tabs before and after, is pretty unlikely on your standard patch panel work. 90% of the time one piece is still fixed to the vehicle with limited working space.
Thanks for showing me how I will be welding on my next panel!
I guess im missing the point. What are these for? Temporary holding?..
so you' want to have the tabs on the new piece of body panel? Or does it really matter?
Thanks man, that’s so useful!❤
thank you for that. im about to weld my first patch and I didn't want to use a full lap. this will allow me to use the clecos and still have a flush butt weld.
Excellent video. Thanks very much
And then weld? The seam and fill holes?
That's 3-4 steps more than I do, and I don't have tabs to trim later. Ever try wingnut clamps?
Great vid. The “kick up” is called a joggle btw.
Great video, thanks for sharing
You're the guy that did the series on the dual wheel street rod aren't you? you sound just like him.
😮
so me and some friends are building a plane and we have bought about 1,200 of these
Even if you insist on clecos, try this instead:
ruclips.net/video/_u31t13QO6A/видео.html
Thank you!!
C'mon, that's not a butt weld. You really shouldn't be leading astray all the wannabes watching this stuff.
Rico, You should brush up on your weld type understanding.