Good improvement!! I found that as long as the added weight lays behind the front axle, it won't make the rig pivot and tip over when going down hill. Not always possible, but definately a great difference!
That sounds like good advice. My TRX4 has brass portal covers with a lot of brass going lower in a fan shape but even front to back. I had drilled out evenly as the weights were heavier than needed but your tip has me thinking I should do some modifications on my brass and fill the holes that I drilled then try removing weight only from the front of the fan shaped part.
@@brianbrigg57 I also have a weighted TRX4 and even got a brass bumper mount, had to remove it because the weight was a bit high, and way too forward. I think the optimal weight should be in the axles (unsprung mass), and if in the chassis, never beyond the axles to avoid a "pull" effect to make it roll. There is a whole science about all these things!!
I got same toe out with my element axles and same upgrades!! But it’s worth it! I gotta take tear steering link off and adjust? Haven’t done. It’s insane what a few grandmas or different tires weight!! And motors and esc effect a crawler! More throttle on decents with crazy forward bias! I just got ruptures and it was insane went out and did 4-5 lines never could do!
So, nothing on life, but I do have a question about gear pitch. Recently swapped my 10-3 2 speed with 32p out for a 3 gear trans that currently has a 48p spur and pinion. Am I trading out performance at all in going a higher pitch of gear? (52T 32p spur w/ 12Tp pinion, to an 87T 48p w/ 16T pinion). Wasn't sure the pluses and minuses of pitch, does the smaller tooth take away from gear reduction or add to it?
Definite improvement seen but the rig seems a little too heavy on the front. I drilled a few holes in my weights until I was satisfied. The shape of the weights allowed this to be done quite easily but I recommend removing the weights to drill as the drill bit tends to catch in the brass and the torque applied could break things if the weight is attached. Actually I drilled a little past where I was satisfied and used a little lead shot and epoxy to get back to what I felt was optimum. Some careful work with a Dremel might work on your knuckles. Just try a little at a time and do lots of wheeling before going further. If that was my rig I would buy some Desert Lizard shocks and try a droop setup. I used 100mm shocks as the droop setup reduces overall travel a little. The droop setup works well for me with stock rails, especially for side hilling, but your mileage may vary.
Love your products!! I have 2 of your motors, because you drive and understand what the customer wants and needs!! Not some big company like Hobby**ING. Keep up the great work!!!!!
What is the meaning of life everybody has a different answer
42
Good looking crawl.
And the ultimate answer to all life is 42.
I had the same toe out issue! I found rotating the outer portions of the axles back one spline straightened it out for me.
Right on!!!
Good improvement!! I found that as long as the added weight lays behind the front axle, it won't make the rig pivot and tip over when going down hill. Not always possible, but definately a great difference!
That sounds like good advice. My TRX4 has brass portal covers with a lot of brass going lower in a fan shape but even front to back. I had drilled out evenly as the weights were heavier than needed but your tip has me thinking I should do some modifications on my brass and fill the holes that I drilled then try removing weight only from the front of the fan shaped part.
@@brianbrigg57 I also have a weighted TRX4 and even got a brass bumper mount, had to remove it because the weight was a bit high, and way too forward. I think the optimal weight should be in the axles (unsprung mass), and if in the chassis, never beyond the axles to avoid a "pull" effect to make it roll. There is a whole science about all these things!!
Great progress on the build! Betty is definitely transformed, she's a happy girl! 😉
I need to upgrade my testing area. These newer rigs make the old hard lines easy. Takes fun out of it.
very true
Surprised that brass didn't make the motor melt down in five minutes. Wow, it's doing better than the ones you sent us.
What rig , motor, gearing, voltage, and how much weight? There are limits, which is why we have the recommended page to avoid issues
Fun vid as always. I enjoy the tech and test of your videos.
My Enduro Ecto came with the same toe out. I removed the rear steering link and unscrewed the ends 1/2 turn each side and dialed it right in...
Got 1/4" brass nuts in the axles on the Laegendary Grando, fit over the axle shaft and inside the housing like it was made for them.
nice setup!
Great balance of video between knowledge sharing and driving. Thanks for sharing 👌 👍
I got same toe out with my element axles and same upgrades!!
But it’s worth it!
I gotta take tear steering link off and adjust?
Haven’t done.
It’s insane what a few grandmas or different tires weight!!
And motors and esc effect a crawler!
More throttle on decents with crazy forward bias!
I just got ruptures and it was insane went out and did 4-5 lines never could do!
Upgrades not grandmas 😂
sure...
What are some other options for added non-rotational weight?
I don't know of other solid choices, that's why I added Chubs and knuckles
So, nothing on life, but I do have a question about gear pitch. Recently swapped my 10-3 2 speed with 32p out for a 3 gear trans that currently has a 48p spur and pinion. Am I trading out performance at all in going a higher pitch of gear? (52T 32p spur w/ 12Tp pinion, to an 87T 48p w/ 16T pinion). Wasn't sure the pluses and minuses of pitch, does the smaller tooth take away from gear reduction or add to it?
The pitch of tooth doesn't matter, only the actual gear ratio
Sweet rig. How do you think the toe out will affect it? What a machine though!
Not much, it seems to drive ok like this
Definite improvement seen but the rig seems a little too heavy on the front. I drilled a few holes in my weights until I was satisfied. The shape of the weights allowed this to be done quite easily but I recommend removing the weights to drill as the drill bit tends to catch in the brass and the torque applied could break things if the weight is attached. Actually I drilled a little past where I was satisfied and used a little lead shot and epoxy to get back to what I felt was optimum. Some careful work with a Dremel might work on your knuckles. Just try a little at a time and do lots of wheeling before going further.
If that was my rig I would buy some Desert Lizard shocks and try a droop setup. I used 100mm shocks as the droop setup reduces overall travel a little. The droop setup works well for me with stock rails, especially for side hilling, but your mileage may vary.
Did you put them on the wrong side? (not being a jerk)
nope
Love your products!! I have 2 of your motors, because you drive and understand what the customer wants and needs!! Not some big company like Hobby**ING. Keep up the great work!!!!!
I appreciate that!