If this is a tig welder where is the Argon gas input that should be on the rear and where is the torch trigger 5 pin outlet which should be on the front? i have a Hitbox 200 amp H.F Tig /MMA welder 220v with the "COLD" weld facility on it and I have found it to be a great m/c to work with in fact it's as good as my Stahlwerk ac./dc 220v. Bought on Amazon.
If i recall, you'd need a seperate torch and external trigger for doing TIG. I only ever used it for stick welding, and it only worked for a few minutes. I'm glad yours worked well!! I have a plasma cutter that works to this day, although my brother had to swap a mosfet.
If you were running this unit above 80 or 90 amps welding output on just 110vac, there is your problem. You will always risk FRYING the IGBT output transistor, due to thermal overload. Pretty easy fix actually, but probably not for those who don't do electronics repairs on a fairly regular basis. Electrolytic capacitor upgrades are ALWAYS a good idea as well (higher VOLTAGE ratings, but same capacitance). Most of these Chinese welders that WILL RUN on 110/220vac are really far better off running on a good 220vac circuit if they are going to be run at over 80 to 90A output.
Hi I bought myself a hitbox 3in1 and two weeks later it blow's it's diodes I'm using it on 220volts I think it was built with shit part's and now I can't get my work done cause it was my first
Okay I have to ask because I am looking at these myself but if I’m not mistaken that is not the plug that comes on that welder and it looks like it is a 110 plug not the 220 it comes with if so that would be a very good reason for it not to be working
I can't remember what the voltage was but I'm pretty sure I checked it. But they might have listed it as being 240V when it wasn't. I wouldn't have bought it if it was 110V. There aren't any decent industrial use welders in 110V
@@zoghunter82318 1. I don't know anything about electronics 2. Like you said, we can only see the components after opening the machine which is usually after shit happens. 3. There should still be some sort of safety overload switch. 4. Thickness of the material being welded has no affect on the amperage of the machine
There are 220volt 200 amp Hitbox welders on Amazon for $135 Canadian, so probably at or under $100 in the U.S. and they are quite good according to other RUclipsrs. You can't expect that a 110v/120V welder is going to do a whole lot, if it sparks/works at all. It would heat up the metal rod and make it pliable perhaps, but not spark/arc/weld like it should. This has been shown with other ones similar to yours like, except they were 140amp welders that pull at least 20amps from the wall and even then they can only do very light welds with thin rod. Most 140amp welders with 120V standard house plug will trip most 15 amp 120v breakers on household outlets here in Canada seconds into a weld, if it sparks/works at all. I think U.S. ones run at 20amps max. for a standard house plug? It needs a 220V and over 20amps minimum for even light welds and even then it trips the breaker. Wranglerstar reviewed a little $100 140amp welder from Amazon and it was only able to join 2 pieces of metal together with an o.k. weld with not a lot of penetration. The 200 amp one on a proper 220V outlet, was able to burn a hole through steel the thickness of a bed frame steel and can burn some fairly thick rods, like 3-4 mm.
If I recall correctly mine was the 240v unit. Being a daily user, I learned to stay away from the armature/ hobbyist welders which are 110V. I was Hoping I'd get a bit of assistance from the manufacturer but nothing. My point Is, it's probably just not worth it. I recommend having heavy duty machines and overkill for anyone using them on high demand.
@@OldCrowsClassicCars And yet they say if there are any problems, to contact them and they will repair, or replace and have a U.S. service person in their ads. Lol. Typical of Chinese outfits however. They claim good customer service, till you go to get it, hehehe. Then it's the run around.
@@MrBilld75 yup. Exactly what happened. They did reply a few times then nothing. Everything comes from China nowadays and I had a reasonable experience.with the herocut plasma cutter. But this one was really disappointing
@@MrBilld75 they actually really do... at least some of the other chinese companies i dealt with through ebay. I message them my product doesn’t work and they offer to send me a new unit or any part I need, since they actually manufacture them.
That looks like a fried IGBT you pointed out. If you're running the ARC-160 on 120VAC you found your problem. The ARC-160 MUST operate on a 240VAC service. Unfortunately, the damage is done! Wakodahatchee Chris
@@cdrive5757 You are correct sir, that is what I saw too, a standard 120v plug. 220/240V should have different blades, slightly larger size (in a compact 220V housing, although some are quite large like on stoves etc.) I saw nothing indicating it was anything other than a 120 volt two straight blade one round ground typical plug. If it were 220V we should see it arranged differently in the U.S. (curved blade connectors with a ground) or Europe with two large round posts and a ground. It isn't clear in the video, you're right, but that looks like a classic 120V household plug.
So many comments referring to 110 or 220 volts , there is no 110 or 220 in USA , everything here is 120 / 240 volts , 110 / 220 was back in the early fifties ..
Unless it;s something simple (which sometimes it is) like a chord that's got a bad contact on the inside, then otherwise it's very difficult to repair these things unless you're an electronic genius.
Bought the hitbox hf 200 tig welder on Amazon for 249 and 40 dollar four year warranty... Should always by a hf tig at least scratch and lift suck...which most guys who buy this don't even know what this is....at this level a welder you always have protect urself unfortunately people are so cheap .....mines fully replaceable....china shit always has a 20% defective rate right out of the gate...my works amazing can't stand when people shit on a whole brand for shit that could have been fixed for 40 dollars extended warranty....I mean shit L.G. sells extended warranties on the $4000 TVs and there too of the line....smh......
I've generally had good results from chinese sellers on ebay. I don't ever criticize a single brand or country. But to me, this is a crap machine. Indeed, most everything is made of cheap plastic crap nowadays which to me is frustrating. Not even "reputable" brands are good anymore. I don't understand how you should have to pay extra for a warranty....If the product is good, then you shouldn't need that!
Unfortunately the manual only shows obvious information such as safety, operating voltage and 'how to operate the machine'. Literally, it gives instructions on how to press the ON button.
If this is a tig welder where is the Argon gas input that should be on the rear and where is the torch trigger 5 pin outlet which should be on the front? i have a Hitbox 200 amp H.F Tig /MMA welder 220v with the "COLD" weld facility on it and I have found it to be a great m/c to work with in fact it's as good as my Stahlwerk ac./dc 220v. Bought on Amazon.
If i recall, you'd need a seperate torch and external trigger for doing TIG.
I only ever used it for stick welding, and it only worked for a few minutes.
I'm glad yours worked well!!
I have a plasma cutter that works to this day, although my brother had to swap a mosfet.
If you were running this unit above 80 or 90 amps welding output on just 110vac, there is your problem. You will always risk FRYING the IGBT output transistor, due to thermal overload. Pretty easy fix actually, but probably not for those who don't do electronics repairs on a fairly regular basis. Electrolytic capacitor upgrades are ALWAYS a good idea as well (higher VOLTAGE ratings, but same capacitance). Most of these Chinese welders that WILL RUN on 110/220vac are really far better off running on a good 220vac circuit if they are going to be run at over 80 to 90A output.
Thanks for your advice. I'm sure others will need it.
If you ever have the chance, maybe do a video showing it?????
Hi I bought myself a hitbox 3in1 and two weeks later it blow's it's diodes I'm using it on 220volts I think it was built with shit part's and now I can't get my work done cause it was my first
Ya, that's unfortunate....that's why I called it the SHITBOX
JUNK, I agree a "S" should be standard equipment on the spelling on the front of Hitbox.
Gethering from the comments, it seems indeed, you are right.
Okay I have to ask because I am looking at these myself but if I’m not mistaken that is not the plug that comes on that welder and it looks like it is a 110 plug not the 220 it comes with if so that would be a very good reason for it not to be working
I can't remember what the voltage was but I'm pretty sure I checked it.
But they might have listed it as being 240V when it wasn't.
I wouldn't have bought it if it was 110V. There aren't any decent industrial use welders in 110V
I'd just buy a good old simple heavy duty (and heavy) transformer type welder.
@@zoghunter82318 1. I don't know anything about electronics
2. Like you said, we can only see the components after opening the machine which is usually after shit happens.
3. There should still be some sort of safety overload switch.
4. Thickness of the material being welded has no affect on the amperage of the machine
There are 220volt 200 amp Hitbox welders on Amazon for $135 Canadian, so probably at or under $100 in the U.S. and they are quite good according to other RUclipsrs. You can't expect that a 110v/120V welder is going to do a whole lot, if it sparks/works at all. It would heat up the metal rod and make it pliable perhaps, but not spark/arc/weld like it should. This has been shown with other ones similar to yours like, except they were 140amp welders that pull at least 20amps from the wall and even then they can only do very light welds with thin rod.
Most 140amp welders with 120V standard house plug will trip most 15 amp 120v breakers on household outlets here in Canada seconds into a weld, if it sparks/works at all. I think U.S. ones run at 20amps max. for a standard house plug? It needs a 220V and over 20amps minimum for even light welds and even then it trips the breaker. Wranglerstar reviewed a little $100 140amp welder from Amazon and it was only able to join 2 pieces of metal together with an o.k. weld with not a lot of penetration. The 200 amp one on a proper 220V outlet, was able to burn a hole through steel the thickness of a bed frame steel and can burn some fairly thick rods, like 3-4 mm.
If I recall correctly mine was the 240v unit. Being a daily user, I learned to stay away from the armature/ hobbyist welders which are 110V.
I was Hoping I'd get a bit of assistance from the manufacturer but nothing.
My point Is, it's probably just not worth it. I recommend having heavy duty machines and overkill for anyone using them on high demand.
Maybe I was just unlucky.
But I'd choose a transform welder over these electronic welders any day
@@OldCrowsClassicCars And yet they say if there are any problems, to contact them and they will repair, or replace and have a U.S. service person in their ads. Lol. Typical of Chinese outfits however. They claim good customer service, till you go to get it, hehehe. Then it's the run around.
@@MrBilld75 yup. Exactly what happened. They did reply a few times then nothing.
Everything comes from China nowadays and I had a reasonable experience.with the herocut plasma cutter.
But this one was really disappointing
@@MrBilld75 they actually really do... at least some of the other chinese companies i dealt with through ebay. I message them my product doesn’t work and they offer to send me a new unit or any part I need, since they actually manufacture them.
Thermistor poped I had two brand new hitbox1200
ya, from the other comments, it indeed seems like its a shitbox
That looks like a fried IGBT you pointed out. If you're running the ARC-160 on 120VAC you found your problem. The ARC-160 MUST operate on a 240VAC service. Unfortunately, the damage is done!
Wakodahatchee Chris
If I recall correctly, I did have it on 240. I remember I checked the voltage before using.
@@OldCrowsClassicCars I can't see it clearly but your power plug looks like a standard 3 pin (GND - Neutral - Hot ) 120VAC plug.
@@cdrive5757 yes it is. But it's was connected to 240V if I recall correctly
@@OldCrowsClassicCars Will the seller replace it?
@@cdrive5757 You are correct sir, that is what I saw too, a standard 120v plug. 220/240V should have different blades, slightly larger size (in a compact 220V housing, although some are quite large like on stoves etc.) I saw nothing indicating it was anything other than a 120 volt two straight blade one round ground typical plug. If it were 220V we should see it arranged differently in the U.S. (curved blade connectors with a ground) or Europe with two large round posts and a ground. It isn't clear in the video, you're right, but that looks like a classic 120V household plug.
So many comments referring to 110 or 220 volts , there is no 110 or 220 in USA , everything here is 120 / 240 volts ,
110 / 220 was back in the early fifties ..
interesting. I wonder if it has to do with voltage fluctuation. The voltage is actually never exactly that.
You shouldn't be touching anything while still holding charge.
But if I'm careful....haha.
I got the mt250amp used it once they is no power at all can anyone help what it could be I got the 200 amp 3 in one to with same problem
Unless it;s something simple (which sometimes it is) like a chord that's got a bad contact on the inside, then otherwise it's very difficult to repair these things unless you're an electronic genius.
Bought the hitbox hf 200 tig welder on Amazon for 249 and 40 dollar four year warranty... Should always by a hf tig at least scratch and lift suck...which most guys who buy this don't even know what this is....at this level a welder you always have protect urself unfortunately people are so cheap .....mines fully replaceable....china shit always has a 20% defective rate right out of the gate...my works amazing can't stand when people shit on a whole brand for shit that could have been fixed for 40 dollars extended warranty....I mean shit L.G. sells extended warranties on the $4000 TVs and there too of the line....smh......
I've generally had good results from chinese sellers on ebay. I don't ever criticize a single brand or country.
But to me, this is a crap machine.
Indeed, most everything is made of cheap plastic crap nowadays which to me is frustrating.
Not even "reputable" brands are good anymore.
I don't understand how you should have to pay extra for a warranty....If the product is good, then you shouldn't need that!
I was going to buy the arc inverter hitbox but decided I will get a rohr or parkerbrand one as they both have uk based customer service.
ya, good choice
So this is a total sh#tbox that now has great circuit board is well built ,changed your mind ?
You mean they changed the circuit board recently?
Read manual.
Unfortunately the manual only shows obvious information such as safety, operating voltage and 'how to operate the machine'. Literally, it gives instructions on how to press the ON button.
Unfortunately my book is printed in some foreign language