Also, I bought the revo point POP 3 because that's what was recommended to me by your eBay store... For scanning in action figures and action figure parts ranging from 1.5 in to 9 in... I don't know if I'm getting the best results versus if I bought the many, can you shed some light? I feel like I'm not getting a very high level of detail, for example on action figure heads that are about 1 and 3/4 in
No problem. Here are some user tips that I am forwarding to you: His suggestions are as follows: 1. Scan in a dim room without sunlight. External light sources in the infrared spectrum might "wash out" the object. Usually, this isn't necessary, but we are pushing for Inspire here, so every detail is important. 2. Place the POP 3 on a tripod, tilted downward at about 30-45°. Stability is crucial for capturing the smallest details. Place the object on a turntable, with a speed of about 50%. 3. Depth camera exposure: It's best to have a bit of red and a bit of blue, with the ideal state being no color in the depth camera. 4. Adjust the object's position so that the distance meter is as close as possible to the line between "Excellent" and "Too Close" without staying too much in the "Too Close" zone. Then adjust the distance slider to capture data only within the "Excellent" range. 5. Capture a single frame, about 1 and 1/4 turns. When using feature tracking, I usually keep the interval between the first 3-10 frames very short to lock in the tracking points, then an interval of 1-2 seconds per frame. This reduces noise in the point cloud. 6. Place the model on its back and repeat step 5. Place the model on its front and repeat step 5. 7. If your point cloud looks good, proceed with merging and isolating. If there are missing parts, continue scanning and capture those areas. If there are some bad frames, use the keyframe editor to clean up those frames or remove them entirely. 8. During post-processing: choose the smallest point distance, and set the meshing quality between 5.3 and 5.6. If you are aiming for detail, there is no need to smooth or simplify the mesh after meshing. 9. Ultimately, your model is best captured by a scanner like Mini, but I think you can still get pretty good results following the steps above. Give it a try and see how it works. The eBay store recommendation wasn't wrong because you will be scanning objects up to 9 inches, which is something the MINI series scanners might struggle with. The POP series scanners are more suitable for this task.
An additional question... So if you're going to use a post-processing app such as instant mesh... Should you not do any of the smoothing steps because that will also wash away details?
It depends on your needs and the specifics of your scan. 1. If you don't prioritize details and are concerned about file size, smoothing is a perfectly normal operation. 2. If you scan the object multiple times and the point cloud keeps overlapping, using smoothing can reduce the point cloud density. If you don't prioritize details and are concerned about file size, smoothing is a perfectly normal operation. Smoothing is a subjective matter and depends on your objectives.
So with overlap... It seems to ne never ending. Do it where its defaulted to, then slid it up or down and it never seems to not find something overlaping... Could you explain if you should do this multiple times or does it negatively effect the scan to do so?
It will have some impact on the model as it reduces the point cloud density. If you require high-quality details, you don't need to perform the operation multiple times.
@@Revopoint3D interesting. Here I was thinking it would make a more cleaner result because it's removing point clouds that are overlapping and essentially creating additional layers.
Also, I bought the revo point POP 3 because that's what was recommended to me by your eBay store... For scanning in action figures and action figure parts ranging from 1.5 in to 9 in... I don't know if I'm getting the best results versus if I bought the many, can you shed some light? I feel like I'm not getting a very high level of detail, for example on action figure heads that are about 1 and 3/4 in
No problem. Here are some user tips that I am forwarding to you:
His suggestions are as follows:
1. Scan in a dim room without sunlight. External light sources in the infrared spectrum might "wash out" the object. Usually, this isn't necessary, but we are pushing for Inspire here, so every detail is important.
2. Place the POP 3 on a tripod, tilted downward at about 30-45°. Stability is crucial for capturing the smallest details.
Place the object on a turntable, with a speed of about 50%.
3. Depth camera exposure: It's best to have a bit of red and a bit of blue, with the ideal state being no color in the depth camera.
4. Adjust the object's position so that the distance meter is as close as possible to the line between "Excellent" and "Too Close" without staying too much in the "Too Close" zone. Then adjust the distance slider to capture data only within the "Excellent" range.
5. Capture a single frame, about 1 and 1/4 turns. When using feature tracking, I usually keep the interval between the first 3-10 frames very short to lock in the tracking points, then an interval of 1-2 seconds per frame. This reduces noise in the point cloud.
6. Place the model on its back and repeat step 5. Place the model on its front and repeat step 5.
7. If your point cloud looks good, proceed with merging and isolating. If there are missing parts, continue scanning and capture those areas. If there are some bad frames, use the keyframe editor to clean up those frames or remove them entirely.
8. During post-processing: choose the smallest point distance, and set the meshing quality between 5.3 and 5.6. If you are aiming for detail, there is no need to smooth or simplify the mesh after meshing.
9. Ultimately, your model is best captured by a scanner like Mini, but I think you can still get pretty good results following the steps above. Give it a try and see how it works.
The eBay store recommendation wasn't wrong because you will be scanning objects up to 9 inches, which is something the MINI series scanners might struggle with. The POP series scanners are more suitable for this task.
An additional question... So if you're going to use a post-processing app such as instant mesh... Should you not do any of the smoothing steps because that will also wash away details?
It depends on your needs and the specifics of your scan.
1. If you don't prioritize details and are concerned about file size, smoothing is a perfectly normal operation.
2. If you scan the object multiple times and the point cloud keeps overlapping, using smoothing can reduce the point cloud density. If you don't prioritize details and are concerned about file size, smoothing is a perfectly normal operation.
Smoothing is a subjective matter and depends on your objectives.
So with overlap... It seems to ne never ending. Do it where its defaulted to, then slid it up or down and it never seems to not find something overlaping... Could you explain if you should do this multiple times or does it negatively effect the scan to do so?
It will have some impact on the model as it reduces the point cloud density. If you require high-quality details, you don't need to perform the operation multiple times.
@@Revopoint3D interesting. Here I was thinking it would make a more cleaner result because it's removing point clouds that are overlapping and essentially creating additional layers.