Folks read the directions that come with the planks do what it says All these different companies have different locking systems you will benefit in the long run
Yup that's why I hammer it in cuz it moves the ones on the side and then the blocks don't help much cuz it either breaks the piece or damage the edges .. especially if your using the cheap stye brand flooring
As a professional floor and tile installer for the last two years, this is the only way I was shown. The only other tip I have is when u do engage that end joint, start as close as you can to the side joint of the board it’s about to click into. That way there’s less chance of breaking the locking mechanism and quicker/easier to get the plank together. 🤙👍
A home depot employee told me I didn't need to glue the planks down, they were rubber and bendable they felt heavy and good, I cant believe you can set a heavy bed on them and they wont come up
I bet you didnt figure that out as quick as he did on your first day, give people a break man, companies and installers "us" are killing them with our prices due to "inflation" when its actually a hustle rather then a trade in sense of just installation. Prep is prep but thats a diff story
This is experience right here. It took me a few months of doing floors everyday to pick that technique up. Probably helped my boss was SCREAMING to get it done 😂
Exactly what I was thinking too. A rubber mallet is perfect for this. In my opinion if it’s still raised up like that it’s actually not fully 100% locked and that’s where hammering comes in to secure it
I did a similar way by connecting the row side by side then connecting the tongue into the groove of all pieces like one long piece. much easier, much faster. Great content btw!!
You know the crazy thing is bc I am the best flooring installer in the world …. It magically just gave me the intuition to do the same thing without anyone to tell me .
Been doing flooring for almost 10 years and it amazes me that people don’t figure this out. And for all the people that will say it doesn’t fill seat itself that way just give it a couple taps and your done. This way is a lot faster.
“Faster” is subjective. I’m willing to bet I could give the OP a 2 hour headstart and still lay the same square footage of flooring faster than him. Technique is only half of the equation. 90% of DIYers are gonna end up losing an hour as soon as they need to do some sort of mitered or beveled cut around something because they don’t know how to mark out efficiently. It don’t matter which way you “catch” the board as long as you flush it up and hammer it to seal. Run your hand across the seam as you tap and you’ll feel it close. I’m not a flooring guy, I’m just not retarded and I’ve been in construction for 20+ years
I just found that same trick yesterday. No tools need, quick and easy. Just lining it up correctly at an angle and shaking as you push in on the join. If it goes in correctly, the plank will lay flat.
yep, been doing short edge then long edge for quite some time. I will say, that ya always wanna do a final tap on your planks if possible. Sometimes we think they are clicked in, but if they ain't, you will get gaps between the planks with expansion and contraction, and movement across the plank in time to come.
The hammering is important to make sure you get a strong seal. If you have a waterproof board the hammering allows the underlayment to seal the boards together. Is doing it by hand without a hammer worth finding out one day your subfloor rotted from spilled juice because you didn't want to take the extra step to make sure it was wayerproof?
Not true. You push the plank in until you hear or fill it lock. You don't have to hammer it. If you have to, then you are doing it wrong. I've been installing this flooring for a while with no hammering and never a call back for that. It's only if it doesn't lock. You are damaging the ends. Or your tile is cheap.
He's saying not to hit the other end in, you do hammer the seam down on this type of flooring but the kind I'm using right now you have to do it the way he's showing or it will snap the tongue
I'm a professional floor installer and you do not need to hammer. You just listen for the click. This floor does NOT need to hammered on the seam. The way he does it is the way to truly do it
Until you accidentally kick a board loose and now have to undo the last few boards you placed to fix it lol, don't even walk on it too much for the first day, let it rest into place
@@Torpax_no, I’ve laid flooring for about 25 years and every company has you lay while on the product, most of the professional tools are made for being on the plank as you tap them in
I’ve installed about 6000 sq feet of vinyl plank, I’ve always just lined up the long edge, slide it by hand to meet the short edge, and then tap until locked.
I just pulled up and replaced a bunch today in a room with very little right angles, I hammered the ever living snot out of those planks to get everything to fit. But it worked. It wasn't easy and I hated every second of it, but it looks nice now that it's done.
Exactly. I see people arguing about it but youre the only one whos mentioned theres 2 types of locking systems for this floor. Hes using the kind you dont need to hammer on the seam
There’s a difference between “need” and proper pride in your work. Does an electrician “need” to put all the outlet cover plate screws at 12-6? No but basically every single one does because it looks cleaner. You hammer the floor to seal gaps. Especially as an idiot DIYer who doesn’t understand what expansion joints even are or how settling happens. It don’t matter if it’s top or side lock, be an adult give it a few taps to seal and keep moving you lazy crybabies.
I learned this the hard way. I removed various rows of planks (5 times) because something was always wrong. learning slowly - now room #1 is almost done: then 4 more rooms, some closets and hallways. At the end we should pros. mom and son!
I used to be a flooring installer before I was injured. If you have a friend or helper you can build one full row connecting the butt edges then you and help get on new side of floor grab whole row lift it and click it on to the next full row 👍👊
Best suggestion is YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH IT BECAUSE THEY ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS OF LOCKING SYSTEMS, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS & IF YOU MUST ASK OR DO YOUR HOMEWORK PLEASE DO, IT WILL DEFINITELY HELP YOU IN THE LONG RUN.
Yep, he’s right, I just did the same planks in a spare bedroom and that was the easiest way because tapping them together from the end has a tendency to leave the under-mating of the plank to show as a seem, it looks terrible that way.
Installer here, try sitting on the other side.... hella more comfortable. Good job figuring it out dude. Plus, not all plank install the same, yours happen to click nice and smooth. Each kind requires a diff way believe it or not, but you seem to have the mindset for it. Give it a try around the house and fuck it, make some money man!
Omg brother, this video is a pain to watch. U posted this video in 2021 and I guarantee u that flooring needs to be swapped out now. First off when installing this flooring u should be on the flooring, opposite of how u were installing it in the video, u will lay it way faster and better. Second you should be tapping it in with that mallet and also ur block to ensure no micro cracks. But all of that should be the least of ur worries cause you’ll be changing that flooring in about give or take 2- 3 years. Why do u ask? Cause u got no moisture barrier. I’ve been changing out flooring that has been laid with no moisture barrier and the flooring is only about 2-3 years old, still new! Countless homes all for the simple reason that they skimped out and didn’t do a moisture barrier. I love it for 2 reasons, 1 tearing out the pretty much new flooring just gives me joy, 2 brings me more work!
Correct I’ve been doing this way but but there are different style locking as the drip lock also cheaper lvp are easier to lock and unlock which is not good so I like the quality ones once u install it and move to the next row less lickly to mess up the current rows
You know a lot of concrete that is pulling water after it’s been cured for years?😂. Also most of the LVP boards come with a bit of a backing to them. And you can’t “damage” the floor since it’s plastic. When’s the last time water destroyed the plastic bottle it’s in?
I was doing my laundry room and it was so frustrating that I only got three rows done in like two hours and it kept popping out and finally I just threw it out in the carport. I went to Home Depot. I got different flooring and got finished in a few hours.
Ain’t no way. I just helped a buddy DIY some LVP and if we locked the short edge first there was no way to get the long edge snapped in. Took us probably 2 hours of fighting with it to figure that out, but once we did the rest of the floor went together in no time.
@@ligyron2835 Whole project took us ~3.5 hours. Id guess it was close to 400sf. Is what it is. Came out mint in the end so that’s all that really matters.
That's the way I install it... except I just installed some that the butts ends do not interlock. Just follow manufacturers instructions (and hope they are clear enough) ;)
I love your choice of attire! Great job. Your shirt is awesome and the USA Cover on your grape just gives me joy joy feeling. I also like your advice. Great video Sir, or Mam. Sorry for not knowing, but I don’t want to assume your chosen gender. I have been informed recently at work that doing such can be rude. Please have a great day
Well i can tell ya right now, you being in front of the boards instead of behind them is the main source of your issues. Also, like others have said in the comments, just follow the manufactures instructions. If youre having a difficult time with it then youre either doing it wrong or your subfloor isnt as flat as you thought. Idc what the orange apron told you at the box store, interlocking floors still need a flat surface to be installed on, the whole “zero prep” is for imperfections in the floor as in if you just ripped out carpet strip you dont need to patch the holes. Ive been an installer for 13 going on 14 years now
This is because in “general” people’s back muscles are stronger than their chest muscles and you can engage better leverage “pulling” toward you rather than “pushing” away from you. Not to mention your weight sitting on the already laid boards forces them flat and doesn’t allow for them to shift as you seal the new board. Not rocket science, simple physics.
This is pretty much how I did my own kitchen, but it definitely doesnt work for all vinyl planks. Some you need to line up thr long edge and hit the short edge with a block and a hammer on the face.
We purchased Shaw flooring from Lowe's on 8/28/2021 as part of a remodel. Not long after the floor was installed (by us), we noticed the floor separating and cracking in various places. The install was straightforward and followed the instructions to the letter. Shaw was contacted about this issue, and a claim was started A third party inspector was sent to our home. We got the claim back, and was denied. Said the floor was separating and cracking due to poor installation. Really? There's only one way to install this floor. We followed the instructions, and nothing was forced. Very disappointed in this company. We spent 2200 dollars on this floor and they don't want to make this right. We're not looking to have the whole floor replaced, just the damaged areas. This floor also has a 30 year warranty. For what? I'f your not going to stand behind your product, then don't offer a warranty. Sounds like they'll use any excuse to get out of helping the customer. We will never buy from this company again. Horrible experience. We spent alot of money, and time to on installing this floor. I guess since they have our money, that's all they care about. So sad. HORRIBLE PRODUCT!!
Quite a few manufacturers you will need a tapping block. Make your own! Buy a small sheet of polypropylene 1" thick, cut into about 4" x 10" (modify to fit your style), buy a simple cabinet handle and screw it in. Bam. Made 4 tapping blocks for about 30 bucks. But yes, always click butt joint first. 24 years of flooring says so 😁
Bro thats gonna mislead a lot of people.. Different brands/makes/models of vinyl have different "recommended" locking systems. Do you bro. oh and its OK TO USE THAT MALLET. LOCK THAT DAMN FLOOR IN!
Folks read the directions that come with the planks do what it says All these different companies have different locking systems you will benefit in the long run
Directions? I don't need no stinking directions! It's about trial and error. LOL.
@localone Like a man!!! That's how I do it!!!
I'm a professional and I was just about to address the fact that there are varying locking mechanisms.
Yep
some lock in by tapping the smaller end down and others lock in by connecting the smaller end and tapping it in long ways.
Thank you. You fixed in thirty seconds what three other videos couldn’t in 15 minutes.
Thanks. You just made me 50% more efficient and no more damaged ends.
Had to listen to this 26 times and go thru 3 boards before I finally got it! Thanks!
Uh sir, U might have a severe case of ADHD
Not every click product has the same locking system if your not dealing with these products on the regular, read the paper that falls out of the box
I believe he is demonstrating an adhesive product, not a click product.
No body reads instructions...lol
As soon as you lift up the existing panel, most of the time it disconnects from the groove
Yup that's why I hammer it in cuz it moves the ones on the side and then the blocks don't help much cuz it either breaks the piece or damage the edges .. especially if your using the cheap stye brand flooring
As a professional floor and tile installer for the last two years, this is the only way I was shown. The only other tip I have is when u do engage that end joint, start as close as you can to the side joint of the board it’s about to click into. That way there’s less chance of breaking the locking mechanism and quicker/easier to get the plank together. 🤙👍
A home depot employee told me I didn't need to glue the planks down, they were rubber and bendable they felt heavy and good, I cant believe you can set a heavy bed on them and they wont come up
ThankYou. I noticed Seth has no glue or underlay. Of floor sub is new and level can You lay engineered floor with no underlay ? 🦘
Different products require different techniques. Thanks for teaching people with your 1 day of experience.
I bet you didnt figure that out as quick as he did on your first day, give people a break man, companies and installers "us" are killing them with our prices due to "inflation" when its actually a hustle rather then a trade in sense of just installation. Prep is prep but thats a diff story
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@husseinabboud7979 Come on, the prep is easy too...
Haters hate, it's ALL they can do. Keep hating HATER..!
This is experience right here. It took me a few months of doing floors everyday to pick that technique up. Probably helped my boss was SCREAMING to get it done 😂
When you hammer it not only does it "seal" it but it'll also lay flat instead of raising up like it did at the end of the video.
Exactly what I was thinking too. A rubber mallet is perfect for this. In my opinion if it’s still raised up like that it’s actually not fully 100% locked and that’s where hammering comes in to secure it
Lol I seen that to when it clicks properly it also lays flat
Exactly
All these random comments helped me a lot, I appreciate people like you adding more insight for newbies like me. @@HARDCOREx92
Someone will say “ I have to walk on it anyway” 😳
I did a similar way by connecting the row side by side then connecting the tongue into the groove of all pieces like one long piece. much easier, much faster. Great content btw!!
Yep! Lions floor would only install this way but I learned the hard way, breaking several along the way. Glad you shared this.
You know the crazy thing is bc I am the best flooring installer in the world …. It magically just gave me the intuition to do the same thing without anyone to tell me .
Floors have various locking systems. That one looks brutal.
Been doing flooring for almost 10 years and it amazes me that people don’t figure this out. And for all the people that will say it doesn’t fill seat itself that way just give it a couple taps and your done. This way is a lot faster.
“Faster” is subjective. I’m willing to bet I could give the OP a 2 hour headstart and still lay the same square footage of flooring faster than him. Technique is only half of the equation. 90% of DIYers are gonna end up losing an hour as soon as they need to do some sort of mitered or beveled cut around something because they don’t know how to mark out efficiently. It don’t matter which way you “catch” the board as long as you flush it up and hammer it to seal. Run your hand across the seam as you tap and you’ll feel it close. I’m not a flooring guy, I’m just not retarded and I’ve been in construction for 20+ years
I just found that same trick yesterday. No tools need, quick and easy. Just lining it up correctly at an angle and shaking as you push in on the join. If it goes in correctly, the plank will lay flat.
Should still tap it in. Good stuff
Agree. You don't need to beat it down. But a few taps for a better seal.
@@raulaleman2277 bingo!
I figured that out a long time ago. You are correct sir.
That is correct, except you should do an entire row at once.
yep, been doing short edge then long edge for quite some time. I will say, that ya always wanna do a final tap on your planks if possible. Sometimes we think they are clicked in, but if they ain't, you will get gaps between the planks with expansion and contraction, and movement across the plank in time to come.
Yes sir! That feeling of seeing a plank separated in the middle of the floor when you are walking off the job. That happens once.
The hammering is important to make sure you get a strong seal. If you have a waterproof board the hammering allows the underlayment to seal the boards together. Is doing it by hand without a hammer worth finding out one day your subfloor rotted from spilled juice because you didn't want to take the extra step to make sure it was wayerproof?
Not true. You push the plank in until you hear or fill it lock. You don't have to hammer it. If you have to, then you are doing it wrong. I've been installing this flooring for a while with no hammering and never a call back for that. It's only if it doesn't lock. You are damaging the ends. Or your tile is cheap.
He's saying not to hit the other end in, you do hammer the seam down on this type of flooring but the kind I'm using right now you have to do it the way he's showing or it will snap the tongue
I'm a professional floor installer and you do not need to hammer. You just listen for the click. This floor does NOT need to hammered on the seam. The way he does it is the way to truly do it
I only hammer if I have to. Not usually necessary in wide open spaces
Michael got roasted in this comment section lol
It’s faster if you work from the inside as you sit on the flooring that you already installed
Until you accidentally kick a board loose and now have to undo the last few boards you placed to fix it lol, don't even walk on it too much for the first day, let it rest into place
@@Torpax_😂
@@Torpax_no, I’ve laid flooring for about 25 years and every company has you lay while on the product, most of the professional tools are made for being on the plank as you tap them in
WOW, do you have someone who can fix it after your installation, swear to God you will need him
I’ve installed about 6000 sq feet of vinyl plank, I’ve always just lined up the long edge, slide it by hand to meet the short edge, and then tap until locked.
Advice sounds great... Thanks for sharing...
or you can connect the smaller side first and lift up on it a smidge and tap it in with a nice solid 2x4 with solid edges. so much easier and faster
I just pulled up and replaced a bunch today in a room with very little right angles, I hammered the ever living snot out of those planks to get everything to fit. But it worked. It wasn't easy and I hated every second of it, but it looks nice now that it's done.
Get a pull bar
I have the same boxes of flooring so imma try it! Came here to find videos to watch first. Thanks!!
Wow genius figure it out I'm impressed
Damn, that does look easy peasy. Thanks man
You still need to hammer it dude
Tell me your a roofer without telling me your a roofer
@@Stinkypinky982 he he he :D
It depends on which system it is... All those videos you see of people beating it like that are top lock.
Exactly. I see people arguing about it but youre the only one whos mentioned theres 2 types of locking systems for this floor. Hes using the kind you dont need to hammer on the seam
There’s a difference between “need” and proper pride in your work. Does an electrician “need” to put all the outlet cover plate screws at 12-6? No but basically every single one does because it looks cleaner. You hammer the floor to seal gaps. Especially as an idiot DIYer who doesn’t understand what expansion joints even are or how settling happens. It don’t matter if it’s top or side lock, be an adult give it a few taps to seal and keep moving you lazy crybabies.
@@ligyron2835
uh no. You do not need to tap on the tongue if it's not top lock. It literally just does not work like that. If it's in then it's in.
This is especially true with the thinner stuff that likes to break off the tongue or groove when hammered.
Get a tapping block and hold it above the female groove
You still need to hammer that it will
Split after months
Absolutely not true! I am a professional floor installer. And you do not need a hammer. The hammer damages
Thank you so much, did my room today following your advice.
I learned this the hard way. I removed various rows of planks (5 times) because something was always wrong. learning slowly - now room #1 is almost done: then 4 more rooms, some closets and hallways. At the end we should pros. mom and son!
I used to be a flooring installer before I was injured. If you have a friend or helper you can build one full row connecting the butt edges then you and help get on new side of floor grab whole row lift it and click it on to the next full row 👍👊
Line the long side inand lock it down then lift the existing plank slightly, lower the edge down and they lock in beautifully.
just keep a rubber mallet handy for those moments you do need it, and need it you will, quite often :D
Best suggestion is YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH IT BECAUSE THEY ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS OF LOCKING SYSTEMS, TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS & IF YOU MUST ASK OR DO YOUR HOMEWORK PLEASE DO, IT WILL DEFINITELY HELP YOU IN THE LONG RUN.
This method honestly saved our project !!! Thank you great tip
Yep, he’s right, I just did the same planks in a spare bedroom and that was the easiest way because tapping them together from the end has a tendency to leave the under-mating of the plank to show as a seem, it looks terrible that way.
Love u. Made my day. Forgot how to. Works now
Installer here, try sitting on the other side.... hella more comfortable. Good job figuring it out dude. Plus, not all plank install the same, yours happen to click nice and smooth. Each kind requires a diff way believe it or not, but you seem to have the mindset for it. Give it a try around the house and fuck it, make some money man!
Great video and great information
As soon as I saw his staggering layout I had to LOL!
Omg brother, this video is a pain to watch. U posted this video in 2021 and I guarantee u that flooring needs to be swapped out now. First off when installing this flooring u should be on the flooring, opposite of how u were installing it in the video, u will lay it way faster and better. Second you should be tapping it in with that mallet and also ur block to ensure no micro cracks. But all of that should be the least of ur worries cause you’ll be changing that flooring in about give or take 2- 3 years. Why do u ask? Cause u got no moisture barrier. I’ve been changing out flooring that has been laid with no moisture barrier and the flooring is only about 2-3 years old, still new! Countless homes all for the simple reason that they skimped out and didn’t do a moisture barrier. I love it for 2 reasons, 1 tearing out the pretty much new flooring just gives me joy, 2 brings me more work!
Omg 😲 this is exactly what I needed. I was planning to save money for all those expensive equipments. Am gonna do this tomorrow
We were struggling with the hammer until we found your video! This is the best information out there!
Another tip, still a couple of planking together first then lock it into the previous row
Break all the locks in mid to low end planks, way to go! 🤙
No not if you're careful been doing this flooring for years
I don’t use the word “hate” often but I HATE installing these things. They never click. I’ll try this but never again.
Correct I’ve been doing this way but but there are different style locking as the drip lock also cheaper lvp are easier to lock and unlock which is not good so I like the quality ones once u install it and move to the next row less lickly to mess up the current rows
Thx! This Helped So Much!!!!!
Shouldn’t you have a moisture barrier between to concrete and the floor to prevent moisture damage to the floor
Or polyethylene
You know a lot of concrete that is pulling water after it’s been cured for years?😂. Also most of the LVP boards come with a bit of a backing to them. And you can’t “damage” the floor since it’s plastic. When’s the last time water destroyed the plastic bottle it’s in?
@@ligyron2835idiot.
Definitely a moisture barrier should be put down, that's concrete!
There should be an underlayment as well to allow for the concrete shifting or cracking over time!
God bless you sir. I knew you were it from the 🇺🇸🧢
Works thanks for the tip
I was doing my laundry room and it was so frustrating that I only got three rows done in like two hours and it kept popping out and finally I just threw it out in the carport. I went to Home Depot. I got different flooring and got finished in a few hours.
Lots of different grooves. I've found the best one is the patented Uniclick.
This works great, but it only works with Shaw flooring unfortunately.
Getting ready to start thanks
What i found out is easier is actually working om the floor not behind the floor because your working backwards, get a flooring tapping block
You don’t need a tapping block. Just use a scrap piece of flooring as your cover and hammer away.
It may seem like it connect but once you tap it slightly it give it a final seal. Just use scrap piece. It works wonder for me!
didn’t take me long to realize that and i still hate it. so glad i don’t need to take side jobs anymore lol
Tks for the idea
ProTip: It's much easier with the floor behind you and pulling instead of pushing in.
Different company. Life proof you hammer down this kind you lock into place
And now it isn’t completely sealed 😅 great job. 6 months from now you’ll know why your supposed to hammer them tight
If it's drop and lock, I always line up the small joint, lock the long the one in, and then tap down the small joint.
Ain’t no way. I just helped a buddy DIY some LVP and if we locked the short edge first there was no way to get the long edge snapped in. Took us probably 2 hours of fighting with it to figure that out, but once we did the rest of the floor went together in no time.
Jeez it took yall 2 hours to troubleshoot? I laid a 400 sq foot space for my sister in about that time and i was solo and my first time doing it. 😂
@@ligyron2835 Whole project took us ~3.5 hours. Id guess it was close to 400sf. Is what it is. Came out mint in the end so that’s all that really matters.
I never used to have issues with lock in plank systems. Now everytime it's a giant PITA.
Works on that flexible shit
That's the way I install it... except I just installed some that the butts ends do not interlock. Just follow manufacturers instructions (and hope they are clear enough) ;)
You still got to hammer it, I'm sure it's going to come up soon by itself.
Depends on the vinyl your installing
This!
I love your choice of attire! Great job. Your shirt is awesome and the USA Cover on your grape just gives me joy joy feeling. I also like your advice. Great video Sir, or Mam. Sorry for not knowing, but I don’t want to assume your chosen gender. I have been informed recently at work that doing such can be rude. Please have a great day
Well i can tell ya right now, you being in front of the boards instead of behind them is the main source of your issues. Also, like others have said in the comments, just follow the manufactures instructions. If youre having a difficult time with it then youre either doing it wrong or your subfloor isnt as flat as you thought. Idc what the orange apron told you at the box store, interlocking floors still need a flat surface to be installed on, the whole “zero prep” is for imperfections in the floor as in if you just ripped out carpet strip you dont need to patch the holes. Ive been an installer for 13 going on 14 years now
You should make the floor even first lol it's a slight gap between the vinyl and floor
Most of these floors are installed easier working on top of the material pulling the material back towards you Reading the directions is key
This is because in “general” people’s back muscles are stronger than their chest muscles and you can engage better leverage “pulling” toward you rather than “pushing” away from you. Not to mention your weight sitting on the already laid boards forces them flat and doesn’t allow for them to shift as you seal the new board. Not rocket science, simple physics.
It depends on what kind of plank, for vinyl thin probably this method is good for wood you may need hammer to tuk it properly
I want to do it myself and a little nervous. Thank you.
Yeah that works if u get the right flooring some floors is easier to line up the long side
Give a little knock with that left hand where short join slides to ensure it’s popped in completely before pressing it all down
I could cry right now
Thank you sooo much for this advice
Love the shirt "Stand for the flag kneel for the cross"
With that particular locking mechanism. Which sounds like the quick loc locking mechanism
yep. this is a great way to avoid breaking it too. good job!
That’s how my pops taught me 🙏🏻
It’s how I’ve been doing it since I started doing flooring. To that is the easier way.
That method can chew the corners up tho. When bringing it down, it can sand sometimes does catch and rip the corner
This is pretty much how I did my own kitchen, but it definitely doesnt work for all vinyl planks. Some you need to line up thr long edge and hit the short edge with a block and a hammer on the face.
YESSS thank youuuuuuu 🤦🏽♀️ sooooooo much easier!!! 🤣😂
I've been doing it this way for years, definitely much easier
We purchased Shaw flooring from Lowe's on 8/28/2021 as part of a remodel. Not long after the floor was installed (by us), we noticed the floor separating and cracking in various places. The install was straightforward and followed the instructions to the letter. Shaw was contacted about this issue, and a claim was started A third party inspector was sent to our home. We got the claim back, and was denied. Said the floor was separating and cracking due to poor installation. Really? There's only one way to install this floor. We followed the instructions, and nothing was forced. Very disappointed in this company. We spent 2200 dollars on this floor and they don't want to make this right. We're not looking to have the whole floor replaced, just the damaged areas. This floor also has a 30 year warranty. For what? I'f your not going to stand behind your product, then don't offer a warranty. Sounds like they'll use any excuse to get out of helping the customer. We will never buy from this company again. Horrible experience. We spent alot of money, and time to on installing this floor. I guess since they have our money, that's all they care about. So sad. HORRIBLE PRODUCT!!
I agree. Shaw is horrible. Nothing but problems with our Shaw LVP.
Quite a few manufacturers you will need a tapping block. Make your own! Buy a small sheet of polypropylene 1" thick, cut into about 4" x 10" (modify to fit your style), buy a simple cabinet handle and screw it in. Bam. Made 4 tapping blocks for about 30 bucks. But yes, always click butt joint first. 24 years of flooring says so 😁
Bro thats gonna mislead a lot of people..
Different brands/makes/models of vinyl have different "recommended" locking systems. Do you bro. oh and its OK TO USE THAT MALLET. LOCK THAT DAMN FLOOR IN!
Legend has it hes still not done laying the floor down from installing on the outside :p
Thank you so much I was about to give up
That wayworks better if you sitting on the other side where the vinyl is already installed
Thanks, I’m about to tackle this.