Rather than use Acetone to convert the plastic blocks back into a liquid, you should heat them up instead. A good place to start is around 325°F but it may be necessary to experiment to find out what works. Not all plastics melt at the same temp and you don't want to burn your plastic so start at a lower temp. Anyway, the blocks will revert back into a liquid but you won't foul up the plastic with the Acetone. With a heated melt, you also usually don't have to be concerned with bubbles either which is good. The smart play when repurposing the plastic into something like a handle for tools is to make a permanent mould that either fits together with the tool during the heat process or make a general mould to convert the plastic to square or round stock that can subsequently be shaped into a handle after the plastic rehardens. One of the best plastics to use for a handle is the caps from soda bottles. That grade of plastic is durable yet not brittle which means it doesn't like to crack or break because it has a little bit of flex to it. As for using the plastic caps, you don't necessarily need to cut them into smaller pieces but you might find it's better to do so if you have a small mould. Some folks cut them up with heavy shears or sharp wire cutters but attaining a spare kitchen blender can work as well if the blades are sharp. The key to success is making sure that the mould becomes 100% full during the melt and one of the best ways to do that is to heat the moulds in a vertical position so the plastic flows downward thus filling them. Some sources for sacrificial moulds to make bar stock are tin cans, glass bottles or even aluminum foil. After your repurposed plastic hardens, tin cans can be cut off, glass can be broken off and aluminum foil can be peeled off. The great thing about aluminum foil is that it's cheap and can easily be formed into a wide variety of shapes. With foil, you're only limited by the ability of the foil to retain the shape you form it into when you remelt the plastic... make too big of a foil mould without support and the foil mould may fail so keep that in mind. Ways to support a foil mould is to: - Use aluminum tape on the outside of the foil. - Use chicken wire for support on the outside or any other metallic mesh that will take the heat. - Manufacture a metal box large enough to hold the foil mould... and install the aluminum foil mould into Plaster of Paris and cure it before using the mould for a plastic melt. - Manufacture a metal box large enough to hold the foil mould... but install sand into the box surrounding the foil instead of PoP. As for the PoP, make a thicker mix and have someone slowly pour it into the sandbox while you slowly pour sand into the inside of the foil mould. The sand will act as a backer for the foil thus holding it in place as the PoP cures. Once cured, dump out the sand and load the mould with your plastic for heating. Note that using a sandbox can be tricky as the sand or PoP also may collapse the foil mould even after it's loaded... foil is thin and it likes to deform even if you don't want it to. You can combat unwanted deformation by using many layers of foil, however, if the mould is too big, the foil will still fail to hold the shape you desire which means it'll still require backing of some kind. Instead of PoP or sand, some folks have found success with casting sands (foundry), clay or heavy mud too but remember what you put into an oven may make fumes... fumes that you don't want to breathe or have smell up your house or shop. When using PoP, clay, mud or anything else that contains water then the smart thing to do is to let it dry out and cure before making a melt. You'll avoid fumes as well as steam which is a definite no-no... steam will cause mould deformation! At the end of the day, I've found the best permanent moulds are made from metals and are of the 2-piece design although multi-piece moulds above two parts can be made to suit your needs. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Hello Max! Thanks a lot for such a detailed instruction! I thought about your methods - this could work, but I doubt about the way to pour the liquid plastic into the mould. If you will work with the heated plastic - pouring it would be a difficult task. You would need to have a kind of self-heating syringe or something like that - otherwise, the heated plastic would not be able to pour to the mould. I think so...
@@YouCanTelevision I was going to tease you and say that you're not thinking outside the box... but then I realized that I assumed you would follow along with my thoughts and come to the same conclusion I would when it came to using the plastic. Question: do you pour molten plastic into the mould...? Or do something else to get the plastic in? OK, I'll come right out and say it - you load the plastic bits into the mould before you heat the mould. You end up with a mould that is mostly full once melted... if not completely full depending on your design. On a permanent mould that is NOT built for an injection machine there is always a small opening somewhere on the mould which allows three things: 1. You get to see how full the mould is. 2. It allows air to escape the mould. 3. It provides a location for adding more plastic, even if the opening is small. Remember, the permanent mould you're making for home use will be very similar to but not be 100% exacting to one made for an injection moulding machine. In injection moulding, the opening used to inject the plastic may be small but it is always under pressure. The plastic is molten outside the mould. The moulds themselves always have a few small holes in them which allows air to escape. The casting "flash" that remains once the item cools is removed after the fact. For an unpressurized mould, such as what you'd make for home use, it doesn't need to have any holes in it to relieve air pockets thus ensuring total fill - you just need one hole at the top for adding in extra material. For home use, your permanent mould is never under pressure and molten plastic is not injected into it. You pre-load the mould and add in only what is needed to make a complete fill and you do it during the heat. To ensure a 100% fill, you simply push in more solid plastic bits to make up the difference and give them time to melt. On a fully open mould, you just dump in as much as you need which is easy... such as if you're making bar stock. With all that said, I will note that some folks do make a permanent mould with additional small holes drilled in them and they do so because they will still use a piston to put pressure on the plastic to ensure that the plastic is pushed into all the parts of the mould. If you design your permanent mould correctly, it's easy to place it in a press to apply pressure but that's a personal preference and it usually boils down to your level of success. Some folks are more successful using one technique over another - just figure out what works for you and go with it. The relief holes? They are typically about .030 to .050 in diameter. Again, figure out what works for you. Here's my best advice after writing another chapter: conduct a few experiments when it comes to slicing, dicing or shredding your plastic before attempting to make more complex permanent moulds. The finer the bits or fluff you make, the easier it is to pack a mould prior to heating and the less topping off you'll have to do during a melt once you're red hot and rolling. The bonus is that you'll be far less likely to experience the problem of having air pockets. Also, make a couple of less complex permanent moulds before moving on to more complex moulds. The idea is that you'll gain real working experience and see how things actually turn out. You'll get to see what works and what doesn't as well as how messy melted plastic can be. IMHO, the best thing to always do is to never handle molten plastic - always keep it inside a mould. You eliminate so many problems that way... such as air pockets or incomplete castings. Best wishes and happy casting! - Max Giganteum
Max, thank you for your detailed instruction! I think, all your thoughts make sense and would be helpful for both me and the audience! I will try some of your methods for my future videos if I would work with the liquid plastic
Thank you for the idea, I am a mixed media artist and this has given me ideas for when I am creating and ideas I have not considered. Salute you for your effort.
Ce liquide s'appelle l'acétone. C'est un solvant pour les peintures à l'huile. Vous pouvez l'acheter dans les magasins de rénovation domiciliaire du rayon solvants
Браво! Спасибо, что вы, очень честно делитесь своим опытом. Потому что сейчас, такие полезные советы, многие не делятся, а продают! Спасибо за честное видео ещё раз! Удачи вам, и в других ваших опытах!
@@YouCanTelevision well you know what? I like it. I'm going to start with maybe a bit of acetone also and see how that works out. For heat, I'm going to wait until I have some activated charcoal and a filter first, that way I don't release chemical fumes into the air. Thank you 🫂
That’s because syringe is made of different kind of plastic (not ABS type of plastic, that legos are made of). This type of plastic is not affected by acetone at all. Only heat can liquify it (or may be other types of chemicals, that I am not aware of
I was wondering why everyone was being so critical about the finished product, till i saw it! I'm so sorry but that is the worst looking thing ever! I can't stop laughing lol I feel like I shouldn't post this but it's hilarious!!😂 On a serious note though, thank you for the idea. I think a lot of people will actually appreciate the creative opportunity that you provided us with. Please don't take this the wrong way and thank you again, sincerely.
@@YouCanTelevision you know if you don’t like the finished product. Look at the process that is what is invaluable in this video. Thank you so much for sharing, for taking the time and the effort and the knowledge to share.
I think this technique has a lot of potential. Legos are made from ABS plastic, a type 7 plastic which usually isnt recyclable. Many plastic toys are ABS and can be repurposed.
Thank you very much for this explanation, you have given me a benefit that I was looking for. I want to melt pieces of glass from the rear lights of cars. Greetings from Iraq
Good luck with that! Just take note, that the plastic after melting with acetone may become not clear because when drying, there appear small bulbs of air inside of plastic. Just test your idea on a small and not important item. I wish you success!
When the molten glass is placed on the broken piece and the welding is done, you can remove the excess using sandpaper, starting with 180, then 400, then 800, then 1200, then 2000.
Верх от тюбика шприца срезан для того, чтобы увеличить площадь открытой поверхности пластика, чтобы испарялся ацетон. К сожалению, без этого ацетон испаряется медленно и пластик не затвердевает. Установлено опытным путем
Wow they're very high tech and futuristic looking! The ergonomics are way beyond anything i've ever seen. I'm surprised NASA isn't banging down your door!
Great idea, got to remember Acetone is highly flammable because it has flash point of like -18 C and it's toxic. I think a guy made glue with styrofoam and gasoline. Just use precautions and store it right away from open flame.
Yes, I think you can use silicone molds, but you need to leave some hole/open area in them to let acetone evaporate. Otherwise the plastic would not harden. It hardens only when acetone evaporates
I wonder how much acetone to add in proportion the plastic. What if you soaked but drain the acetone before it gets absorbed? Just soften the plastic so it can be rolled into a dough ball then formed as you wish like clay and allow it to harden over time. Also wonder if some catalyst can be added with the acetone to accelerate the hardening so contact with air be unnecessary.
I added acetone in the amount of half the amount of plastic. Trying to adjust the quantity of acetone enough just to soften the plastic so it can be rolled into a dough ball is a very good idea, I need to try it. May be I will shoot a video about that some day... Regarding the catalyst - also a very good question, but I am not a chemist to give you grounded reply on it. May be there is somebody here with chemical background, who can shed a light on this issue?
@@YouCanTelevisionTambién quisiera saber si con esto podré reparar un zapato plástico, y un envase de mi perrita que ya murió y deseo conservar. Otra pregunta, ¿el plástico es de alguna densidad especial? ¿O es cualquier tipo de plástico? Gracias de antemano.
Yo no repararía zapatos de plástico con este método. Lo más probable es que dicha reparación no sea confiable. Hay muchos tipos de plástico en el mundo. Para ver qué reparaciones funcionan y cuáles no, debes probar este método y ver si el resultado te satisface.
Pretty colours now your friends can tease you. Can the jars be reused for something? The plastice from the seringe can also be melted to serve as a glue. ❤
Great use of reusing Plastic, in this case, Lego for the colours. I like the idea of using a Syringe to add to a mold, How long will the plastic stay as a liquid in the syringe. ?. Also maybe make a Proper File handle mold using Wax (Which can be reused). Also make the Liquid Plastic thinner so that it forms Better. I know Buying Handles would or could be Cheaper but knowing how you can make them is brilliant. Making a proper mold would be an interesting Video. Well done
Thank you so much for your detailed comment! The plastic can stay in the syringe for quite some time, several days or even a week. But it should be closed tightly in order not to let the acetone evaporate
"Also make the Liquid Plastic thinner so that it forms Better." Every application I have seen of this technique results in a VERY rough finish, I suspect that is because the evaporation process of the acetone itself causes the bubbling... which if true means making the goo more fluid with more acetone wouldn't help. What might help is after sanding, adding a very thin second coat of goo as a varnish, & then re-sanding that. Basically exploiting that the bubbling is less likely with thinner applications. "I know Buying Handles would or could be Cheaper" You can do this with other types of plastic than is used in Lego, including food packaging. Setup a system where you save your scrap & melt it down in acetone & you're basically just paying for the acetone, which is pretty affordable.
This must be checked. I have noticed that the less acetone you add (so the plastic is not very liquid) the less air bubbles you get in the dried plastic
No problem, Acetone solvent will not hurt RTV Silcone molds, but best to test it with the brand of RTV Silcone molds you are using to be sure. There are both Tin cured and Platinum cured RTV Silicones both have slightly different properties . Tin cured RTV is called condensation cure type and Platinum is catylist type cure. Any of the top suppliers of RTV will give you spec sheets. Smooth On, Polytek Inc, GE, and a lot of others. I think as I recall GE was the Company who makes the bulk of the raw materials and then resells to other companies.
This has given me an idea of maybe using old CD cases. I don't have small kids with old Legos anymore. But I do have old CD cases not being used. I'm thinking this process would work for most hard plastics?
Yes, CD's cases will remelt. There are 2 types of meltable plastics -Thermal plastics which can be recycled and remelted. and thermal set plastics which are a 1 shot deal and can not be remelted. Polycarbonates are thermal types and can be remelted many times. Glass transition temp is apround 297Deg. F Works good for home made injection molding presses and Legos would too.
Sir, I tried to make the glue but I must have done something wrong because it did not work for me,. I am not A scientist, just A retired nurse from Florida. Please let me know what I did wrong.
The key element is the purity of acetone. You need acetone with 100% concentration. If you used just a nail removing liquid - it would not work. Also, not every plastic can be liquefied with acetone. Only ABS-type of plastic. This is for example, Lego bricks, CD-disc clear cases etc.
Yorumları okuduğumda bazıları için maliyetli bazıları içinse gereksiz gibi. Halbuki eskimiş kırılmış yada atılacak plastikleri tekrar başka bir proje için nasıl değerlendirilebilir şeklinde düşündüğümüzde bu video gerçekten çok iyi olmuş. Biraz daha inceltilerek belki plastik boya içinde kullanılabilir. Bazıları içinde harika bir fikir olduğu kesin.Verdiğiniz sır için teşekkürler. 👌
Desteğiniz için çok teşekkür ederiz! Bu videonun fikrini anlamanız benim için çok önemli. Sonuç mükemmel olmayabilir. Sadece gereksiz şeyleri nasıl faydalı hale getirebileceğinizi göstermek istedim
Ну результат-то так себе, если посчитать стоимость шприцов и ацетона (может оказаться что и дешевле купить промышленно исполненные ручки), можно было бы отформовать ручки и поэстетичнее из чего-то другого самоотвердевающегося, или отлить из той же эпоксидной смолы в которую добавить можно всего что душа желает, в качестве наполнителя. Ручки получились пористые, мелкие, не ровной формы. И обрабатывать их пришлось, шкурить-шлифовать...Как наполнитель для прозрачного материала интересен, а так возможно хрупок из-за пористости... Можно слепок сделать герметиком или силиконом из любой удобной рукоятки и залить любой из отвердевающих материалов. Годится эксперимент, если остатки детского конструктора надоели под ногами и его срочно нужно извести...мешать надо тщательнее, тогда пузырей не будет и дать после размешивания выйти воздуху...Цвета классные, их можно смешивать и формовать скульптуры или декоративные вещи...Жаль, у меня не завалялось детских игрушек...Если пластик, такой пузырчатый и пористый мы в мастерской музея примешиваем карбонат калия после первой пробной отливки..., он тогда плотный становится, не рыхлый, не пористый...Идея повторного использования, творческое применение современных материалов и ваши эксперименты с ними , заслуживают бесспорно уважения. И берегут природу планеты от излишков мусора. Любопытно было посмотреть, процесс реализации идеи...Спасибо за подробное видео. Занятно!
Спасибо за ваш развернутый комментарий и позитивную оценку! Естественно, купить сами ручки или специальный самоотвердевающий материал для этого было бы самым быстрым и легким решением. Да, данное видео снято скорее как эксперимент. Как говорится, мы не ищем легких путей!!! По поводу размешивания, к сожалению, чем больше мешаешь эту массу, тем больше она пузырится, поэтому мешанием от пузырей избавиться нельзя. Воздух после размешивания не уходит. Возможно, в данном случае решить вопрос можно специальной камерой с давлением или центрифугой, но как вы понимаете, тут уже точно, игра не будет стоить свеч...
Спасибо за видео. Конечно я ожидала какую нибудь цветную картину)) но то что эксперементируете то да,интересно. А вообще можно было бы оставить в шприцы и не надо было шкурить. Но хозяин барин,как говорится в русской пословице.
@@YouCanTelevision You can't get sets of just pieces of Lego anymore, though. You can only get the silly sets that build a specific thing (the Haunted Castle, Star Wars, etc.). So it is rather worrying to see perfectly good generic Legos turned into liquid plastic because it gets all the more difficult to get the generic ones. Also, what's the point of Legos when you can only get the predetermined sets? To my mind, the point of Legos was primarily to stimulate creativity in the use of the blocks.
@@khindall8044 who say it has to be Lego? Take some cheap generica from Ali - them are fake anyway so the best way to punish them is to use them just as plastic source lol.
Two questions please: 1/ Can we make that liquid with plastic bottles? 2/ Can we paint wood with that liquid in order to make it waterproof (small pieces)?
I haven't tried with bottles but most hard plastics that is used to transport food, works (at least here in Sweden). My understanding is that plastic that feels fatty when clean but wet, works.
Normalmente, o removedor de esmalte contém acetona, mas não com concentração de 100%. A acetona pura pode ser adquirida em uma loja de ferragens e é usada como solvente para tintas à base de óleo
Everything depends on how tightly you close the jar with the liquid plastic. Acetone evaporates very easy, so, the jar must be closed well to keep the plastic in a liquid state. I doubt that it is possible to use it after 1 month, but 1 week (or possibly 2), may be possible, if there is no acetone evaporation
Thermoplastic is much easier to process. It is also liquid at 60/90 degrees and can be shaped and heated again in warm water until the shape is right. Much simple and you don't have to wait long before you have it liquid or solid/cold.
Yes, acetone dissolves plastic! - And for the same reason it will also dissolve the syringes in a not very long time. So don't think you can store the dissolved plastic in the syringes for very long. - Also, in case you intend to pour the plastic into molds, you have to take into acount that as the acetone evaporates there will be some shrinkage due to the lost volume of the acetone.
@@agbl1195 You can melt it. You just have to be aware of the melting point for the particular type of plastic.. - There are videos up on youtube that describe how to best do that, and which types of plastic melts at which temperatures.
Olá! Excelente! Obrigada por compartilhar conosco.. Qd eu usar a sua técnica deixarei no formato original, sem desbastar na lixa, (mais anatômico pra mim). ❤
Чтобы всё получилось юный техник. Как делали дети в юном технике. Пластик должен крошиться. Только из хрупкого пластика получается. Крошится на тёрке или в сступпки. Заливается ацетоном. И перевод супер-клей готов. А чтобы сделать какую-то рукоятку. Нужно добавить поташ. Стружку пластика, которая тянется Пэт. Плотный пластик. Смешивается и льётся. Застаёт. И можно обрабатывать. Супер-клей моего детства. Хрупкий пластик + ацетон. Ёмкость только нужно, чтобы она была постоянно закрыта. Ацетон испаряется, если остаётся просто пластик.стеклянный.
@@YouCanTelevision у современного человека, у русского. Очень много лишних денег. Вот и некуда тратить некоторым самодельщикам. Замешают непонятное месиво. Типы ацетон с пенопластом или с бензином и говорят. Что какую-то краску сделали. А так просто деньги выбросили. И люди повторяют. Не может быть так, тогда бы давно это было в производстве. Если смотришь советские рецепты по тем же журналам. Так видно реальный рецепт. Последнее ведро. Но зато литр. Какого-нибудь вещества самодельного, но которое реально работает. У советского человека не было столько денег выбрасывать на какие-то эксперименты.
Да и сейчас дешевле выкинуть, чем покупать ацетон, наждачки кучу, кучу шприцов. Да и конструктора у меня в помине небыло а тем более чтоб долго хранилось ненужное: приходилось много переезжать. Как говорили один переезд это что два пожара.
@@YouCanTelevisionForse invece dei LEGO che sono comunque utilizzabili potresti cercare delle plastiche che sono comunque buttate via. Allora l'idea non è male. Tipo potrei pensare Non so i tappi di plastica rigida. Insomma l'idea è buona ma utilizzerei plastica di scarto. Come riconoscerla che vada bene Non lo so.🙂
Actually i know how to use melted plastic many ways , soldering toothbrushes together etc. But ! To make small file handles i collect wooden sticks , even dry small branches in my garden & drill some bits cut out for handle at file's diameter , it holds OK without glue.
Здравия @@ИринаИванова-х6м3э так же как и Ацетон не все но очень летучий и токсичный, нужно делать смесь растворителей, например,, ацетон +ксилол +дихлорэтан, примерно поровну.
@@YouCanTelevision а можно ли как то уменьшить количество пустот (пузырьков) внутри в домашних условиях при отсутствии камеры дегазации (если дело вообще в этом)?
It depends a lot on how wide the open space for acetone evaporation you have. You saw that I made wide holes in the syringes, they serve for evaporation of acetone. The plastic hardens as soon as acetone evaporates
Better to use clay, porcelain or polymer clay to make handles if wooden handles are not easy to make. Sad to use plastic again and by sanding, introducing more micro plastic to the environment.
@@YouCanTelevision🇺🇸here.. Geez..save them for your Grandkids..legos are "timeless"..or donate those Legos to Thrift Shops...or even a local childrens Day Care..hurts to see this type of senseless, purposeless destruction😢..go melt down an old milk jug
It depends a lot on how wide there is an opened space from where the acetone would be evaporated. As soon as the acetone evaporates, the plastic becomes hard
I wouldn't bet my life on the following claims but, the time also depends on the amount of acetone used. Keeping the plastic saturated with acetone makes it stay liquefied forever. It's like putting sugar in water. When the water evaporated, you are left with sugar.
Interesante Pero no era mejor haber quitado la goma negra que trae la jeringa para rellenar por la parte superior sin tener que cortar los lados de la jeringa ?
Gracias por tu pregunta. Para que el plástico se endurezca, la acetona debe evaporarse. Desafortunadamente, la acetona no se evapora muy bien a través de agujeros pequeños, por lo que me vi obligado a hacer agujeros tan grandes para permitir que el plástico se endureciera.
Es muy importante conoser esta tecnica para plastico pero me gustaria saber si se puede hacer con otro tipo de plastico que no sean legos .gracias🌺🌷🌷❤️🌼💕💕🦜🌻🌻👍👍👍👍👍👍
¡Hola! También puedes llevar una caja de CD transparente. Este plástico también se puede disolver con acetona. Tengo un video sobre este tema en mi canal
Of course not. You can liquefy only some kinds of plastic with acetone (it must have 100% concentration). Try such Lego bricks or CD-box covers. This should work. I saw some videos where bottle caps were liquefied with the help of heating
It depends a lot on the thickness of the layer of the liquid plastic. As thick the layer is as longer it will become harder. Also, I draw your attention, that this plastic becomes hard when acetone evaporates. So, you need to ensure some open space of the plastic, from where acetone would evaporate. Only then the plastic would become hard
Sí, creo que es útil. Es muy importante tener en cuenta que se deben hacer agujeros grandes para permitir que la acetona se evapore. Sólo así se endurecerá el plástico
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Rather than use Acetone to convert the plastic blocks back into a liquid, you should heat them up instead. A good place to start is around 325°F but it may be necessary to experiment to find out what works. Not all plastics melt at the same temp and you don't want to burn your plastic so start at a lower temp. Anyway, the blocks will revert back into a liquid but you won't foul up the plastic with the Acetone. With a heated melt, you also usually don't have to be concerned with bubbles either which is good. The smart play when repurposing the plastic into something like a handle for tools is to make a permanent mould that either fits together with the tool during the heat process or make a general mould to convert the plastic to square or round stock that can subsequently be shaped into a handle after the plastic rehardens. One of the best plastics to use for a handle is the caps from soda bottles. That grade of plastic is durable yet not brittle which means it doesn't like to crack or break because it has a little bit of flex to it. As for using the plastic caps, you don't necessarily need to cut them into smaller pieces but you might find it's better to do so if you have a small mould. Some folks cut them up with heavy shears or sharp wire cutters but attaining a spare kitchen blender can work as well if the blades are sharp. The key to success is making sure that the mould becomes 100% full during the melt and one of the best ways to do that is to heat the moulds in a vertical position so the plastic flows downward thus filling them. Some sources for sacrificial moulds to make bar stock are tin cans, glass bottles or even aluminum foil. After your repurposed plastic hardens, tin cans can be cut off, glass can be broken off and aluminum foil can be peeled off. The great thing about aluminum foil is that it's cheap and can easily be formed into a wide variety of shapes. With foil, you're only limited by the ability of the foil to retain the shape you form it into when you remelt the plastic... make too big of a foil mould without support and the foil mould may fail so keep that in mind. Ways to support a foil mould is to:
- Use aluminum tape on the outside of the foil.
- Use chicken wire for support on the outside or any other metallic mesh that will take the heat.
- Manufacture a metal box large enough to hold the foil mould... and install the aluminum foil mould into Plaster of Paris and cure it before using the mould for a plastic melt.
- Manufacture a metal box large enough to hold the foil mould... but install sand into the box surrounding the foil instead of PoP.
As for the PoP, make a thicker mix and have someone slowly pour it into the sandbox while you slowly pour sand into the inside of the foil mould. The sand will act as a backer for the foil thus holding it in place as the PoP cures. Once cured, dump out the sand and load the mould with your plastic for heating. Note that using a sandbox can be tricky as the sand or PoP also may collapse the foil mould even after it's loaded... foil is thin and it likes to deform even if you don't want it to. You can combat unwanted deformation by using many layers of foil, however, if the mould is too big, the foil will still fail to hold the shape you desire which means it'll still require backing of some kind. Instead of PoP or sand, some folks have found success with casting sands (foundry), clay or heavy mud too but remember what you put into an oven may make fumes... fumes that you don't want to breathe or have smell up your house or shop. When using PoP, clay, mud or anything else that contains water then the smart thing to do is to let it dry out and cure before making a melt. You'll avoid fumes as well as steam which is a definite no-no... steam will cause mould deformation! At the end of the day, I've found the best permanent moulds are made from metals and are of the 2-piece design although multi-piece moulds above two parts can be made to suit your needs. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Hello Max! Thanks a lot for such a detailed instruction! I thought about your methods - this could work, but I doubt about the way to pour the liquid plastic into the mould. If you will work with the heated plastic - pouring it would be a difficult task. You would need to have a kind of self-heating syringe or something like that - otherwise, the heated plastic would not be able to pour to the mould. I think so...
@@YouCanTelevision I was going to tease you and say that you're not thinking outside the box... but then I realized that I assumed you would follow along with my thoughts and come to the same conclusion I would when it came to using the plastic. Question: do you pour molten plastic into the mould...? Or do something else to get the plastic in? OK, I'll come right out and say it - you load the plastic bits into the mould before you heat the mould. You end up with a mould that is mostly full once melted... if not completely full depending on your design. On a permanent mould that is NOT built for an injection machine there is always a small opening somewhere on the mould which allows three things:
1. You get to see how full the mould is.
2. It allows air to escape the mould.
3. It provides a location for adding more plastic, even if the opening is small.
Remember, the permanent mould you're making for home use will be very similar to but not be 100% exacting to one made for an injection moulding machine. In injection moulding, the opening used to inject the plastic may be small but it is always under pressure. The plastic is molten outside the mould. The moulds themselves always have a few small holes in them which allows air to escape. The casting "flash" that remains once the item cools is removed after the fact. For an unpressurized mould, such as what you'd make for home use, it doesn't need to have any holes in it to relieve air pockets thus ensuring total fill - you just need one hole at the top for adding in extra material. For home use, your permanent mould is never under pressure and molten plastic is not injected into it. You pre-load the mould and add in only what is needed to make a complete fill and you do it during the heat. To ensure a 100% fill, you simply push in more solid plastic bits to make up the difference and give them time to melt. On a fully open mould, you just dump in as much as you need which is easy... such as if you're making bar stock. With all that said, I will note that some folks do make a permanent mould with additional small holes drilled in them and they do so because they will still use a piston to put pressure on the plastic to ensure that the plastic is pushed into all the parts of the mould. If you design your permanent mould correctly, it's easy to place it in a press to apply pressure but that's a personal preference and it usually boils down to your level of success. Some folks are more successful using one technique over another - just figure out what works for you and go with it. The relief holes? They are typically about .030 to .050 in diameter. Again, figure out what works for you. Here's my best advice after writing another chapter: conduct a few experiments when it comes to slicing, dicing or shredding your plastic before attempting to make more complex permanent moulds. The finer the bits or fluff you make, the easier it is to pack a mould prior to heating and the less topping off you'll have to do during a melt once you're red hot and rolling. The bonus is that you'll be far less likely to experience the problem of having air pockets. Also, make a couple of less complex permanent moulds before moving on to more complex moulds. The idea is that you'll gain real working experience and see how things actually turn out. You'll get to see what works and what doesn't as well as how messy melted plastic can be. IMHO, the best thing to always do is to never handle molten plastic - always keep it inside a mould. You eliminate so many problems that way... such as air pockets or incomplete castings. Best wishes and happy casting!
- Max Giganteum
Max, thank you for your detailed instruction! I think, all your thoughts make sense and would be helpful for both me and the audience! I will try some of your methods for my future videos if I would work with the liquid plastic
@carolinegann6696 ... De Acuerdo, el comentario me hizo evocar los talleres de fundición jejeje. Saludos
No sé si me cansé de leer o me dormí. ES UNA RECOMENDACIÓN QUE HACE ESTE AMIGO, TU HAZ TU VIDEO EN LUGAR DE ESCRIBIR TANTO.
Я помню мы в школе(это было почти 30 лет назад), делали лак для ногтей😊. Линеек пластмассовых не было после этого ни у кого.
😂😂😂😂
😅😅😅😅😅😅😅 les parents devaient être ravis 😅😅😅😅😅
@@mart9004 😊
А эта штука была прочной? Прям как обычный тот же пластик до растворения?
Ооо! У вас были пластиковые линейки? Вы не из России?
Thank you for the idea, I am a mixed media artist and this has given me ideas for when I am creating and ideas I have not considered. Salute you for your effort.
Thanks a lot for such supportive comment. Good luck in your business!
Yes, this is amazing for so many things for art
Bonjour quel est ce liquide que vous mélanger pour dissoudre ce plastique
Ce liquide s'appelle l'acétone. C'est un solvant pour les peintures à l'huile. Vous pouvez l'acheter dans les magasins de rénovation domiciliaire du rayon solvants
Браво! Спасибо, что вы, очень честно делитесь своим опытом. Потому что сейчас, такие полезные советы, многие не делятся, а продают!
Спасибо за честное видео ещё раз! Удачи вам, и в других ваших опытах!
Большое спасибо за ваш комментарий! Желаю удачи в вашей деятельности
Wonderful. Thankyou. Can this be put into a silicone mold ?
Вот, тоже сразу подумала об этом😅 Надо вспоминать школьный курс химии, или "кричать" Гугл, помоги!)))😅
Yes, of course, if you have it
While not the most practical, I do like the funky shapes and intense pigments. Kind of refreshing to see.
Thank you so much for your support. Yes, not everything turns out perfectly, but I wanted to show the priciple of making the liquid plastic
@@YouCanTelevision well you know what? I like it. I'm going to start with maybe a bit of acetone also and see how that works out.
For heat, I'm going to wait until I have some activated charcoal and a filter first, that way I don't release chemical fumes into the air.
Thank you 🫂
Thank you for the update! Cheers!
Good idea can be very useful in many other applications.
Yes, you are right! Thank you for understanding the purpose of this video
This is a great trick! Thanks! I do have a doubt, why the acetone doesn't melt the syringe?
That’s because syringe is made of different kind of plastic (not ABS type of plastic, that legos are made of). This type of plastic is not affected by acetone at all. Only heat can liquify it (or may be other types of chemicals, that I am not aware of
I was wondering why everyone was being so critical about the finished product, till i saw it! I'm so sorry but that is the worst looking thing ever! I can't stop laughing lol I feel like I shouldn't post this but it's hilarious!!😂 On a serious note though, thank you for the idea. I think a lot of people will actually appreciate the creative opportunity that you provided us with. Please don't take this the wrong way and thank you again, sincerely.
Thank you for a detailed comment, though it is so controversial! At least I made you laugh and this means my work was not in vain!
@@YouCanTelevision you know if you don’t like the finished product. Look at the process that is what is invaluable in this video. Thank you so much for sharing, for taking the time and the effort and the knowledge to share.
Thank you so much for your support!❤️❤️❤️
You could cover the handles with resin to fill the holes and make a smoother surface.
Good idea! Thank you for your comment! ❤️
I think this technique has a lot of potential. Legos are made from ABS plastic, a type 7 plastic which usually isnt recyclable. Many plastic toys are ABS and can be repurposed.
Yes, you are totally right! The purpose of this video was to show how to give a second life to the plastic items that are not needed anymore
Thank you very much for this explanation, you have given me a benefit that I was looking for. I want to melt pieces of glass from the rear lights of cars. Greetings from Iraq
Good luck with that! Just take note, that the plastic after melting with acetone may become not clear because when drying, there appear small bulbs of air inside of plastic. Just test your idea on a small and not important item. I wish you success!
When the molten glass is placed on the broken piece and the welding is done, you can remove the excess using sandpaper, starting with 180, then 400, then 800, then 1200, then 2000.
Thank you for adding new useful information! Have a good day!
Прекрасная идея утилизировать ненужный пластик. Браво!
Спасибо вам за позитив!!! ❤️❤️❤️
Дибилизм. Залить в шприц вставить надфиль а потом срезать ровный тюбик от шприца и ПЫТАТЬСЯ СНОВА ПЕРЕТОЧИТЬ РУЧКУ😱
Верх от тюбика шприца срезан для того, чтобы увеличить площадь открытой поверхности пластика, чтобы испарялся ацетон. К сожалению, без этого ацетон испаряется медленно и пластик не затвердевает. Установлено опытным путем
I have a question, can we use this to make fibers using a cotton candy
I do not know, I did not try this method....
Wow they're very high tech and futuristic looking! The ergonomics are way beyond anything i've ever seen. I'm surprised NASA isn't banging down your door!
It actually banged down, but I refused their offer. I can’t leave my grateful RUclips viewers!
Great idea, got to remember Acetone is highly flammable because it has flash point of like -18 C and it's toxic. I think a guy made glue with styrofoam and gasoline. Just use precautions and store it right away from open flame.
Thank you for your precautions. It is so important to be careful when working with chemicals
Do you think you could use silicone molds, like in resin craft? Thank you!
Yes, I think you can use silicone molds, but you need to leave some hole/open area in them to let acetone evaporate. Otherwise the plastic would not harden. It hardens only when acetone evaporates
The vet one will melt the silicone , and most plastic too. Just use milk bottle tops and melt properly and safely
@@coopercoates8809Excuse me, the "vet one"? I don't understand.
Thank you so much, but what is the name of the liquid you poured the rubber.
This is acetone - a solvent used to liquefy oil paints, it can be bought in construction materials stores
I wonder how much acetone to add in proportion the plastic. What if you soaked but drain the acetone before it gets absorbed? Just soften the plastic so it can be rolled into a dough ball then formed as you wish like clay and allow it to harden over time. Also wonder if some catalyst can be added with the acetone to accelerate the hardening so contact with air be unnecessary.
I added acetone in the amount of half the amount of plastic. Trying to adjust the quantity of acetone enough just to soften the plastic so it can be rolled into a dough ball is a very good idea, I need to try it. May be I will shoot a video about that some day... Regarding the catalyst - also a very good question, but I am not a chemist to give you grounded reply on it. May be there is somebody here with chemical background, who can shed a light on this issue?
@@YouCanTelevisionInteresante preguntas y las respuestas 👍🏻
@@YouCanTelevisionTambién quisiera saber si con esto podré reparar un zapato plástico, y un envase de mi perrita que ya murió y deseo conservar. Otra pregunta, ¿el plástico es de alguna densidad especial? ¿O es cualquier tipo de plástico? Gracias de antemano.
Yo no repararía zapatos de plástico con este método. Lo más probable es que dicha reparación no sea confiable. Hay muchos tipos de plástico en el mundo. Para ver qué reparaciones funcionan y cuáles no, debes probar este método y ver si el resultado te satisface.
طب السينما من البلاستيك مش من الممكن أن تتفاعل مع السيلان اللي في البلاستيك وشكرا لك علي المعلومه من مصر
Thank you. Is it possible to use an other sort of plastic than lego ???? Very pretty and interesting all these colors !!! Thank you ♥
Acetone liquefies ABS-type of plastic. You can take a CD cover box, for example, and add the required color
Felicito! Al Hombre Ingenioso que logró algo importante!!!😂🎉
¡Gracias por escribir comentarios positivos y regalar flores!
Pretty colours now your friends can tease you. Can the jars be reused for something? The plastice from the seringe can also be melted to serve as a glue. ❤
Thank you! You are right!
Great use of reusing Plastic, in this case, Lego for the colours. I like the idea of using a Syringe to add to a mold, How long will the plastic stay as a liquid in the syringe. ?. Also maybe make a Proper File handle mold using Wax (Which can be reused). Also make the Liquid Plastic thinner so that it forms Better. I know Buying Handles would or could be Cheaper but knowing how you can make them is brilliant. Making a proper mold would be an interesting Video. Well done
Thank you so much for your detailed comment! The plastic can stay in the syringe for quite some time, several days or even a week. But it should be closed tightly in order not to let the acetone evaporate
"Also make the Liquid Plastic thinner so that it forms Better." Every application I have seen of this technique results in a VERY rough finish, I suspect that is because the evaporation process of the acetone itself causes the bubbling... which if true means making the goo more fluid with more acetone wouldn't help. What might help is after sanding, adding a very thin second coat of goo as a varnish, & then re-sanding that. Basically exploiting that the bubbling is less likely with thinner applications.
"I know Buying Handles would or could be Cheaper"
You can do this with other types of plastic than is used in Lego, including food packaging. Setup a system where you save your scrap & melt it down in acetone & you're basically just paying for the acetone, which is pretty affordable.
Wonderful! Thank you. I'm wondering if the plastic can be injected in small amounts, then injected again to reduce the air bubbles...
This must be checked. I have noticed that the less acetone you add (so the plastic is not very liquid) the less air bubbles you get in the dried plastic
Might be like cement and need vibration to jiggle the bubbles to the surface... Or maybe like epoxy which requires heat.
Muy buena idea para colocarle a las agujas de crochet, ganchillos para tejer. Gracias
Could you inject this into a silicon mold? Or will the acetone ruin the silicone mold?
Yes, you can work with a silicone mold. What you need is to leave some open space from where the acetone would evaporate
No problem, Acetone solvent will not hurt RTV Silcone molds, but best to test it with the brand of RTV
Silcone molds you are using to be sure. There are both Tin cured and Platinum cured RTV Silicones both have slightly different properties . Tin cured RTV is called condensation cure type and Platinum is catylist type cure. Any of the top suppliers of RTV will give you spec sheets. Smooth On, Polytek Inc, GE, and a lot of others. I think as I recall GE was the Company who makes the bulk of the raw materials and then resells to other companies.
vídeo muito interessante, muito útil, obrigada por ensinar, moro no Brasil
Muito obrigado pelo seu comentário positivo! E por assistir meus vídeos! Desejo prosperidade e paz ao seu lindo país!
счастливчик
This has given me an idea of maybe using old CD cases. I don't have small kids with old Legos anymore. But I do have old CD cases not being used. I'm thinking this process would work for most hard plastics?
I can not say for all the plastics, but lego parts and CD box cover worked well for me. Thanks for commenting!
Yes, CD's cases will remelt. There are 2 types of meltable plastics -Thermal plastics which can be recycled and remelted. and thermal set plastics which are a 1 shot deal and can not be remelted. Polycarbonates are thermal types and can be remelted many times. Glass transition temp is apround 297Deg. F Works good for home made injection molding presses and Legos would too.
Thank you for this addition!
Great idea to reuse plastic ! Thank you !
Thanks a lot for positive commenting! ❤️❤️❤️
That is Awsume!Thank you for sharing.
Thanks a lot for your positive comment! It's much appreciated!
Sir, I tried to make the glue but I must have done something wrong because it did not work for me,. I am not A scientist, just A retired nurse from Florida. Please let me know what I did wrong.
The key element is the purity of acetone. You need acetone with 100% concentration. If you used just a nail removing liquid - it would not work. Also, not every plastic can be liquefied with acetone. Only ABS-type of plastic. This is for example, Lego bricks, CD-disc clear cases etc.
Felicitaciones por su creatividad, con las particulas de plástico, saludos desde Colombia.
Большое вам спасибо! Желаю вашей прекрасной стране мира и процветания!
Yorumları okuduğumda bazıları için maliyetli bazıları içinse gereksiz gibi. Halbuki eskimiş kırılmış yada atılacak plastikleri tekrar başka bir proje için nasıl değerlendirilebilir şeklinde düşündüğümüzde bu video gerçekten çok iyi olmuş. Biraz daha inceltilerek belki plastik boya içinde kullanılabilir. Bazıları içinde harika bir fikir olduğu kesin.Verdiğiniz sır için teşekkürler. 👌
Desteğiniz için çok teşekkür ederiz! Bu videonun fikrini anlamanız benim için çok önemli. Sonuç mükemmel olmayabilir. Sadece gereksiz şeyleri nasıl faydalı hale getirebileceğinizi göstermek istedim
Ну результат-то так себе, если посчитать стоимость шприцов и ацетона (может оказаться что и дешевле купить промышленно исполненные ручки), можно было бы отформовать ручки и поэстетичнее из чего-то другого самоотвердевающегося, или отлить из той же эпоксидной смолы в которую добавить можно всего что душа желает, в качестве наполнителя. Ручки получились пористые, мелкие, не ровной формы. И обрабатывать их пришлось, шкурить-шлифовать...Как наполнитель для прозрачного материала интересен, а так возможно хрупок из-за пористости... Можно слепок сделать герметиком или силиконом из любой удобной рукоятки и залить любой из отвердевающих материалов. Годится эксперимент, если остатки детского конструктора надоели под ногами и его срочно нужно извести...мешать надо тщательнее, тогда пузырей не будет и дать после размешивания выйти воздуху...Цвета классные, их можно смешивать и формовать скульптуры или декоративные вещи...Жаль, у меня не завалялось детских игрушек...Если пластик, такой пузырчатый и пористый мы в мастерской музея примешиваем карбонат калия после первой пробной отливки..., он тогда плотный становится, не рыхлый, не пористый...Идея повторного использования, творческое применение современных материалов и ваши эксперименты с ними , заслуживают бесспорно уважения. И берегут природу планеты от излишков мусора. Любопытно было посмотреть, процесс реализации идеи...Спасибо за подробное видео. Занятно!
Спасибо за ваш развернутый комментарий и позитивную оценку! Естественно, купить сами ручки или специальный самоотвердевающий материал для этого было бы самым быстрым и легким решением. Да, данное видео снято скорее как эксперимент. Как говорится, мы не ищем легких путей!!! По поводу размешивания, к сожалению, чем больше мешаешь эту массу, тем больше она пузырится, поэтому мешанием от пузырей избавиться нельзя. Воздух после размешивания не уходит. Возможно, в данном случае решить вопрос можно специальной камерой с давлением или центрифугой, но как вы понимаете, тут уже точно, игра не будет стоить свеч...
Спасибо за видео. Конечно я ожидала какую нибудь цветную картину)) но то что эксперементируете то да,интересно. А вообще можно было бы оставить в шприцы и не надо было шкурить. Но хозяин барин,как говорится в русской пословице.
Great presentation
Thanks a lot! So much appreciated
The horror of seeing perfectly good lego cut into pieces to create really bad looking handles😱
You are too emotional)
@@YouCanTelevision You can't get sets of just pieces of Lego anymore, though. You can only get the silly sets that build a specific thing (the Haunted Castle, Star Wars, etc.). So it is rather worrying to see perfectly good generic Legos turned into liquid plastic because it gets all the more difficult to get the generic ones. Also, what's the point of Legos when you can only get the predetermined sets? To my mind, the point of Legos was primarily to stimulate creativity in the use of the blocks.
I agree with him
You are too wasteful@@YouCanTelevision
@@khindall8044 who say it has to be Lego? Take some cheap generica from Ali - them are fake anyway so the best way to punish them is to use them just as plastic source lol.
Two questions please: 1/ Can we make that liquid with plastic bottles? 2/ Can we paint wood with that liquid in order to make it waterproof (small pieces)?
Hello! No, the plastic from bottles can not be liquefied with acetone, you need to get ABS type of plastic for that
@@YouCanTelevision ok Thanks a lot
I haven't tried with bottles but most hard plastics that is used to transport food, works (at least here in Sweden).
My understanding is that plastic that feels fatty when clean but wet, works.
Essa acetona é a que usamos para limpar esmalte para unhas???
Normalmente, o removedor de esmalte contém acetona, mas não com concentração de 100%. A acetona pura pode ser adquirida em uma loja de ferragens e é usada como solvente para tintas à base de óleo
Good idea! Congrats!!
Thanks a lot for commenting!
Nossa incrível, desconhecia também. Obrigada pela dica!!+
Obrigado pelo seu comentário maravilhoso! Boa sorte para você!
ENTÃO ROSANGELA, MAS SE F0R A ACETONA QUE LIMPA O ESMALTE, NÃO PODE SER, PORQUE A ACETONA VEM DENTRO DO RECIPIENTE PLASTICO.
هل جربت ان تخلط البلاستك الساءل مع بودرة الأسمنت او الجبس او البودرة البيضاء .للحصول علي تحف وتماثيل وعمل مجسمات.
Mantap... Ide yang sangat kreatif dan inovatif
Terima kasih atas komentar positifnya! Semoga beruntung untukmu!
Realmente fabuloso!!!!
So, how many days can the plastic melted with acetone last without drying and can we use it after 1 month?
Everything depends on how tightly you close the jar with the liquid plastic. Acetone evaporates very easy, so, the jar must be closed well to keep the plastic in a liquid state. I doubt that it is possible to use it after 1 month, but 1 week (or possibly 2), may be possible, if there is no acetone evaporation
@@YouCanTelevision Thank you
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for your support! Come back to see my new videos
Me encantó que buena idea súper ❤
¡Muchas gracias por ver y comentar mis videos!
Exelente idea.
¡Muchas gracias!
Great job!
Thank you so much!
What's likwed name? And where I can get
This is Acetone. You can buy it in a shop where home renovation materials are sold. Acetone is sold as solvent for oil paints
Thermoplastic is much easier to process. It is also liquid at 60/90 degrees and can be shaped and heated again in warm water until the shape is right. Much simple and you don't have to wait long before you have it liquid or solid/cold.
Thank you for this comment! I wander where such thermoplastic can be bought
@@YouCanTelevision
For some dubious reason, RUclips deletes my answer after a few seconds every time here, lol.
One word that RUclips hates it seems.
Polymorpher
On ebay
Yes, acetone dissolves plastic! - And for the same reason it will also dissolve the syringes in a not very long time. So don't think you can store the dissolved plastic in the syringes for very long. - Also, in case you intend to pour the plastic into molds, you have to take into acount that as the acetone evaporates there will be some shrinkage due to the lost volume of the acetone.
Any other good way to dissolves plastic without these problems ?
@@agbl1195 You can melt it. You just have to be aware of the melting point for the particular type of plastic.. - There are videos up on youtube that describe how to best do that, and which types of plastic melts at which temperatures.
@@TeddysTube
Thank you so much
Thank you for all your comments!
So the acetone wears off or ? So the plastic will harden again?
Yes, acetone evaporates and in the result the plastic hardens again
Идея неплохая,но в качестве ручек больше подошла бы полимерная глина
Возможно. Я просто использовал то, что было дома в избытке
Nice! Thanks. Have my mind thinking up a project.
You are welcome! Stay creative! Good luck in your projects!
너무 위험하고 비용적으로도 말이 안된다...
그냥 핸들에 플라스틱 포장끈을 감아준다....여기에 열풍기로 가열하면
단단히 고착된다...그러면 마찰력이 좋은 멋진 손잡이가 된다...
이게 가장 쉽고 좋은 방법이다....
비용과 재료 측면에서 수익성이 없다는 점에 동의합니다. 저는 누구나 집에 가지고 있는 플라스틱으로 무엇을 만들 수 있는지 보여드리고자 했습니다. 제 영상을 시청해주시고 댓글을 남겨주셔서 감사합니다!
Olá! Excelente! Obrigada por compartilhar conosco.. Qd eu usar a sua técnica deixarei no formato original, sem desbastar na lixa, (mais anatômico pra mim). ❤
Sim, acho que será ainda melhor assim. Neste caso, os identificadores de arquivo serão ainda mais fortes
Чтобы всё получилось юный техник. Как делали дети в юном технике. Пластик должен крошиться.
Только из хрупкого пластика получается.
Крошится на тёрке или в сступпки. Заливается ацетоном.
И перевод супер-клей готов.
А чтобы сделать какую-то рукоятку. Нужно добавить поташ.
Стружку пластика, которая тянется Пэт. Плотный пластик.
Смешивается и льётся. Застаёт.
И можно обрабатывать.
Супер-клей моего детства. Хрупкий пластик + ацетон.
Ёмкость только нужно, чтобы она была постоянно закрыта. Ацетон испаряется, если остаётся просто пластик.стеклянный.
Спасибо за информацию! Да, метод очень интересный и доступный
@@YouCanTelevision у современного человека, у русского. Очень много лишних денег. Вот и некуда тратить некоторым самодельщикам.
Замешают непонятное месиво. Типы ацетон с пенопластом или с бензином и говорят. Что какую-то краску сделали.
А так просто деньги выбросили. И люди повторяют. Не может быть так, тогда бы давно это было в производстве.
Если смотришь советские рецепты по тем же журналам. Так видно реальный рецепт. Последнее ведро. Но зато литр. Какого-нибудь вещества самодельного, но которое реально работает. У советского человека не было столько денег выбрасывать на какие-то эксперименты.
Да и сейчас дешевле выкинуть, чем покупать ацетон, наждачки кучу, кучу шприцов. Да и конструктора у меня в помине небыло а тем более чтоб долго хранилось ненужное: приходилось много переезжать. Как говорили один переезд это что два пожара.
Can this be done the same with plastic bottles?
No, this type of plastic (bottles) can not be liquefied with acetone. Only heat may soften them
Or old silicone molds?....
I do not think something can be done with the old silicone molds
Interesting Idea. But, waste of other plastic. Much better to make a wooden handle.
Yes, this is just an idea I wanted to show. I agree, a wooden handle would be more practical
You can't waste plastic there is tons going to trash daily.
@@YouCanTelevisionForse invece dei LEGO che sono comunque utilizzabili potresti cercare delle plastiche che sono comunque buttate via.
Allora l'idea non è male.
Tipo potrei pensare Non so i tappi di plastica rigida.
Insomma l'idea è buona ma utilizzerei plastica di scarto.
Come riconoscerla che vada bene Non lo so.🙂
You can use other molds like candy molds and put a pin in it and make charms
And cover with resin or clear coat
Actually i know how to use melted plastic many ways , soldering toothbrushes together etc. But ! To make small file handles i collect wooden sticks , even dry small branches in my garden & drill some bits cut out for handle at file's diameter , it holds OK without glue.
Thank you for sharing your experience with the public
Этому секрету, как у нас говорят сто лет в обед, и далеко не все полистиролы растворяются в чистом ацетоне, да и с формой не зачёт ))).
дихлорэтан тоже растворяет пластики
Здравия @@ИринаИванова-х6м3э так же как и Ацетон не все но очень летучий и токсичный, нужно делать смесь растворителей, например,, ацетон +ксилол +дихлорэтан, примерно поровну.
I think they look very nice. What would be their durability.
I appreciate your compliment! In terms of durability, they’re built to last and should hold up well over time
You could have used plastic dip instead of waisting that much time. 😅
Gracias por el vídeo muy interesante
Muchas gracias por tus lindos comentarios. ¡Me alegro que te hayan gustado mis vídeos!
Ради этих рукояток столько мучений!!Мышинная возня
Тут больше идея была показать принцип работы с жидким пластиком
@@YouCanTelevision а можно ли как то уменьшить количество пустот (пузырьков) внутри в домашних условиях при отсутствии камеры дегазации (если дело вообще в этом)?
Вряд ли это можно сделать каким то образом
Felicitaciones y gracias por compartir esa idea genial.nSaludos desde Jujuy-Argentina
¡Muchas gracias por ver mis videos! ¡Buena suerte para ti y paz y prosperidad para tu país!
Ужас! Ролик о том, как бездарно потратить время и в результате получить брак. Видеоинструкция как не надо делать.
Круто, я уже начал снимать фильмы ужасов))
How much time takes to hardens?
It depends a lot on how wide the open space for acetone evaporation you have. You saw that I made wide holes in the syringes, they serve for evaporation of acetone. The plastic hardens as soon as acetone evaporates
A better solution would have been a wooden dowel rod. $1 and you have nice wood handles for all the tools in just a few minutes
I agree with you, what you propose is a more practical way. What I show is just a method of how to make use of old Lego bricks
Very good
I am glad you liked this video! Thanks for your kind words!
Better to use clay, porcelain or polymer clay to make handles if wooden handles are not easy to make. Sad to use plastic again and by sanding, introducing more micro plastic to the environment.
clay for mechanical use? There is a reason why we use plastic everywhere.
Can I use liquid plastic for making fiber cotton?
It's difficult for me to say
@@YouCanTelevision Really... Just try and if it works tell me
dont waste legos please !
After my daughters grew up my task is where I should I put them and how to make any use of them
That's not a waste of lego blocks... it's repurposing them. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Thanks for your support!
Dandole uso utilitario a la basura, bien!!!
@@YouCanTelevision🇺🇸here..
Geez..save them for your Grandkids..legos are "timeless"..or donate those Legos to Thrift Shops...or even a local childrens Day Care..hurts to see this type of senseless, purposeless destruction😢..go melt down an old milk jug
Very smart way to melt plastic
Thanks a lot for your positive feedback!!! Cheers!
👍👍👍
Hi , how long does it take to set ?
It depends a lot on how wide there is an opened space from where the acetone would be evaporated. As soon as the acetone evaporates, the plastic becomes hard
I wouldn't bet my life on the following claims but, the time also depends on the amount of acetone used.
Keeping the plastic saturated with acetone makes it stay liquefied forever.
It's like putting sugar in water. When the water evaporated, you are left with sugar.
they look absolutely terrible!
May be not very beautiful, but still practical and colourful!
can i use for plastic casting ?
You can try, but some open space needs to be left to let the acetone to evaporate
La acetona funciona en tapas de botellas PET?
No, la acetona no disuelve las tapas de las botellas de PET. He visto a algunos blogueros disolver estas tapas calentándolas
What type of plastic can be melted with acetone? If it's PP, it definitely won't melt
ABS plastic can be melted with acetone. Plastic PP won't
Great idea
Thanks for your positiveness! There are not so many positive comments under this video))
Nice, interesting 💡👌
Thanks a lot for commenting!
Incrível! Parabéns e muito obrigada pelo vídeo. Pernambuco. Brasil
Que bom que você assiste meus vídeos de um país tão distante! Paz e prosperidade para o seu lindo país!
Interesante
Pero no era mejor haber quitado la goma negra que trae la jeringa para rellenar por la parte superior sin tener que cortar los lados de la jeringa ?
Gracias por tu pregunta. Para que el plástico se endurezca, la acetona debe evaporarse. Desafortunadamente, la acetona no se evapora muy bien a través de agujeros pequeños, por lo que me vi obligado a hacer agujeros tan grandes para permitir que el plástico se endureciera.
Can thevbe poured into silicone molds?
I think yes, if they have enough open space to let the acetone evaporate. Otherwise the liquid plastic won't get hardened
Η ιδέα σας είναι υπέροχη!!!
Ένα μεγάλο ευχαριστώ για το καταπληκτικό αυτό video!!!!🌹
Σας ευχαριστώ πολύ για ένα τόσο υπέροχο σχόλιο! Εύχομαι υγεία και
Nước axeton có phải xăng thơm không anh.
Nếu không phải thì axeton mua ở đâu vậy anh. ❤
Tôi không biết axeton được làm từ gì. Acetone được bán làm dung môi cho sơn gốc dầu tại cửa hàng đồ kim khí
❤ Gracias. Es de utilidad la información.
¡Muchas gracias por tu lindo comentario!
Es muy importante conoser esta tecnica para plastico pero me gustaria saber si se puede hacer con otro tipo de plastico que no sean legos .gracias🌺🌷🌷❤️🌼💕💕🦜🌻🌻👍👍👍👍👍👍
¡Hola! También puedes llevar una caja de CD transparente. Este plástico también se puede disolver con acetona. Tengo un video sobre este tema en mi canal
Creo que con tapas de botellas y bolsas plásticas.se puede hacer a ver si funciona.
Will acetone do this to any plastic? Like bottle caps
Of course not. You can liquefy only some kinds of plastic with acetone (it must have 100% concentration). Try such Lego bricks or CD-box covers. This should work. I saw some videos where bottle caps were liquefied with the help of heating
Любое оргстекло можно использовать.
К сожалению, оргстекло ацетоном не расворить, я проверял
@@YouCanTelevision я видел видео как оргстекло растворяют но не буду врать не помню чем , ацетоном или растворитель
@@YouCanTelevision неделю в закрытой банке нужно ждать и будет жидкость.
Awesome idea! How long can the liquid plastic be stored in the siringe?
You can keep it for a week or two, if the syringe or container is closed well. the plastic gets hard when the acetone evaporates
Que idéia maravilhosa qual outro tipo de plastico posso usar ? Eu não tenho Lego 😢 desde já agradeço ❤
Olá! Você pode tentar usar uma caixa plástica de CD. Também funciona. Você pode assistir a um vídeo sobre isso no meu canal
Ideia blihante 💡👍 ganhou um escrita 🤗
Obrigado pelo seu comentário! Ele é importante para mim!
Hey, what classification was the plastic pieces you used???
This is ABS plastic
Joaoal es.gistei belo trabalho.❤❤lindu.
Obrigado pela sua positividade! ❤️❤️❤️
Can acetone be replaced with gasoline?
No, I am afraid, not
Thanks
Seria mais facil e rápido se você usasse uma lixadeira eletrica. parabens pela dica e otimo trabalho.Obrigado.
Obrigado por assistir meus vídeos e deixar comentários! Boa sorte e saúde para você!
how long does it take to dry?
It depends a lot on the thickness of the layer of the liquid plastic. As thick the layer is as longer it will become harder. Also, I draw your attention, that this plastic becomes hard when acetone evaporates. So, you need to ensure some open space of the plastic, from where acetone would evaporate. Only then the plastic would become hard
Very nice and easy
Thank you!
Sirve para hacer manualidades?
Sí, creo que es útil. Es muy importante tener en cuenta que se deben hacer agujeros grandes para permitir que la acetona se evapore. Sólo así se endurecerá el plástico
Super video🎉
Thanks a lot!
Wil this work for any plastics ????
No, acetone liquefies only some types of plastic. You can take either lego parts or CD-box cover for this
@YouCanTelevision thank u how abt CD/DVD disc plastic ?
I did not try a CD itself