09 Buick Enclave a/c leak (solved) Please read description below for my final repair as of 7/21
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Check this area to prevent or repair this problem. Note: all repair attempts eventually failed. I ended up installing a rear a/c block off kit found on Amazon by: (Blackhorse- Racing) rear a/c block off kit GMC Acadia $17.79 ( p/n HM1179 ) Says for Acadia but, I can confirm it fits Enclave also.
I have a 2008 and right now found the same problem with that line chafing and it completely worn through.
In the process of getting that line off and it don't look easy at all.
Terrible design and wish I seen it earlier before it completely destroyed the line.
Thanks for sharing.
I totally agree it is a pain. I tried multiple attempts to fix it and all of them failed. Somewhere in my description I give part numbers for block off plates that they sell on Amazon. That line runs to the rear AC evaporator that you can do without. good luck with it.... Rob
BUILT IN OBSOLESCENCE: Produces built to break. And money snakes take. Oh; looks like someone mentioned metal epoxy as a solution already. Nice video. Thanks for info. HAGO.
No problem. If the epoxy doesn't work try the rear a/c block off plates that I listed on the video summery. good luck with your repair Rob....
Rob thanks for the video as I have this exact problem as seen in this video. Not sure how I'm going to tackle it as it's already been repaired once but I guess I'll have to try something otherwise the wife wont have any a/c. What a PITA.
You're welcome. Don read through my comment section to find there's a company called blackhorse-racing that makes block off plates. This blocks off the rear AC only ( that's where those lines lead to) so you can still charge the front AC and the plates are cheap on Amazon
That chaffing spot is a common problem with all Chevy Traverse, Buick Enclave, GMC Acadia & the Saturn model... The steel power steering hose coupling rubs on the Aluminum line... It should have been a GM recall but, we all know that auto manufacturers rarely own up to mistakes! They need to make their $$$$$$$$$! 😏 Profit over Quality!
Awsome, don't have this problem but surely NICE to know!!!
Laura if you have one of these vehicles keep an eye on the area shown in the video just in case it begins to rub through. Best of luck Rob......
You can fix it with aluminum epoxy for a/c lines. I got it from Amazon. It worked great, just like new didn't have to remove the hose cleaned it good roughed up the tube applied the epoxy let set for 24 hrs evacuated the system recharged works great.
Just got this problem in my 2009 acadia, was thinking on using J B Weld Epoxy, will give it a try.
actually we just had the engine out of the car for a different reason so i decided to install an aluminum coupling made for this purpose. Amazon has it for about $22 Dorman p/n 800-640 line splice 5/8". It will be a little hard to do with the engine in the way but makes a good repair.
@@robbieraychannel Wave plate or timing chains, lol
Really love the video keep up the good work man
Thanks David
Same yhing happened with my 2010 Traverse. The two vehicles have the same setup under the hood.
I just discovered mine last week, and then just now saw your video. I was thinking I could do this myself...but I'm not sure I can.
On mine it was thr rubber and the c-clamp connector that is leaking.
Sorry to hear yours wore through Anetka. Read through the notes I left on the video page about the rear a/c block off kit. It's cheap and not to hard to install. Plus it will allow you to still have a/c in the dash vents. You will still need to vac the system down and re-charge it after installing the kit. Best of luck Rob....
That hose the was rubbing on the metal part…what is that hose called?? That part of hose came off the crimped part and now my ac doesn’t work.
Usually what I do in a case like that is go online and search Buick dealer parts that are sold online eventually you will find one of them that will show an exploded diagram of the air conditioning system so you can narrow down exactly which hose it is what they call it and what it's part number is then you can search that part number on Google and sometimes find a better price for it
On mine, that like that flops around and rubs on the rear a/c coupling, is covered in sticky substance … thought it was an oil leak as the hose is covered in the black oily dirty film from the left area of the block to back behind/below the engine. I at first thought the engine valve cover was leaking and spitting oil on the line but can’t find any black residue/oil anywhere on the actual engine or in the valve cover area. Now I’m thinking it could be Freon/oil leaking down the line from this issue? Not sure - any ideas? That line that does the rubbing is apparently going to the steering rack behind and underneath.
There is a fluorescent dye kit that you can buy at auto parts stores it comes with a vessel that you place the dye in and then you place the apparatus onto the low side refrigerant line Charge fitting, but you will need to have some freon to push it in with if you don't have sophisticated equipment you can use one of those Freon cans with the adapter built into it to push the dye in. then you need a blacklight after it runs for a few days to check for leaks. don't spend a ton on a fancy black light any black light will do.
To prevent it from happening again, the bracket connecting that rubber hose , I readjusted it by pulling the hose forward so the collar will not chafe my AC line .
Now this is on the 2008 enclave and I also off set the that hose using zip ties , didn't like that ideal but it prevent future problems with chafing.
Thanks for posting Vincent, If you need a temporary repair check my post for the a/c block off kit that I found on Amazon. It doesn't say for Enclave, But if you get the one I listed I can confirm it does fit. If your bad line is to the rear a/c only you can also just leave it blocked off and deleted.
FYI all these 3.6l have a issue with the original valve cover gasket design, that leads to timing chain stretch/blown engines around 130k miles. Would have the gasket replaced, and timing chain looked at before the engine blows. had to replace cracked line behind front bumper.
Good find thanks for this my guy
Your welcome esteBAM
Yes this is my problem!! Thank you! jab Weld and hose with clamp
That sounds like it might work Jerry, Because when I had just the rubber piece the cold freon would eventually break down the rubber then leak again. Good luck with it Rob....
Did the jb weld work?
Wat happens ? That works
How many miles were on the car when this occurred? Do you know if there is an orifice tube in the front somewhere. I am going to replace the receiver/drier soon and would like to get it all done at the same time to ensure no future problems. Thanks for the heads up. Maybe I can save mine still
Your welcome for the heads up. I think the miles where about 140,000. A orifice tube is usually pretty close to where the evaporator is (where the lines enter the firewall) But this could be a expansion valve set up which is different. I haven't had to dig into this model on this issue so I'm not sure on that. Sometimes even when it is a orifice tube type, There are types that are permanently swedged into the aluminum tubing. In this case you will see factory peen marks in the tubing in a slightly fatter part of the tubing near where it enters the evaporator. If it's a removable orifice tube it will be in a place where the lines can be separated exposing the orifice tube. Hope this helps a little. Rob....
Mine only had 80k. I couldn't repair it so I ended up buying caps off amazon that allow you to remove the rear lines and bolt them in at that same joint. Basically you end up with only the front AC and the rear seat gets the leftovers. Recirc helps the back seat.
@@thelsel348 I took a look at mine and they were fine....not touching at all
@@thelsel348By any chance can you tell me the ones you bought? I know you posted this 2 years ago, so this might be a long shot.
Try using low temperature aluminum brazing rod and repair the worn spot
Have you done this before? It makes sense, but have you found it holds pressure?
I have done that to mine. The mechanic convinced me to braze it in place. I was very nervous using an LP torch around the engine. I put a piece of metal behind the line to block the flame. It would have been easier/ faster if I could have used an oxy/ acetylene brazing tip. It's still holding over 2 later
Ok so I have this same problem how long did the quick steel last for because it’s hot in Texas and I got a kiddo
Actually Skyler every attempt I tried failed I ended up using a rear AC block off kit that I got on Amazon. it is made by blackhorse-racing and it says 2007 to 2015 GMC Acadia but I can confirm that it does fit The Enclave. it cost $17.69. this deletes only the rear AC which you can do without. if you were to type in a rear delete kit for The Enclave the only one that comes up is almost $100 that's why I say go with this one I can confirm that it does fit
Ok when it deletes the rear is that the middle set of vents as well or just the far back ones by the third row
@@skylerspiller4245 Sorry don't know that one for sure. It's my brother in laws truck and he never mentioned. He was just happy to have a/c again. I think only the dash vents will work but it can buy some time for $18. I'm looking into rubber hose repair kits but I can't seem to find a new tube end. It has a special shape for the o-ring at the end. I need like a 6" piece to properly splice to the rubber repair kits that they sell. His was damaged to close to the end to properly repair. I'm thinking I might need to cut a piece from a junk yard truck. It's getting late here in the northeast. I'll check to see lf you replied tomorrow. ttyl
@@skylerspiller4245 that’s what I’m wondering too.
Hey what's if I want to replace the whole line can you please tell the name or part number for that line and can't find it. Thank you if you can help
Henry, The line is for the rear a/c evaporator that is mounted at the right rear corner under the truck. I think I had found the lines as a set on ebay or amazon. But they were like $400.00 bucks and will be almost impossible to install with the engine in the way. The lines will be about 15' long also. I ended up using rear a/c block off plates found on amazon. This will allow the a/c coming from the dash vents to work but not the rear. Read through my comments section where I explain where to find them.
What size was the splice kit? Was it 1/2 inch and did the splice kit fit with that little amount of room on the line to work with ?
The kit was 5/8” and I got it on Amazon it’s a doorman product but it didn’t really work that great started leaking a little again this season might have to look into splice repair kits that use a section of rubber hose to take you to a point under the truck where you have a little bit more room to work with I’ve seen these kits on Amazon as well
Thanks
@@christiannoriega2699 no problem Christian 😁
So....long term, how long does this repair last? How soon do you need to put more freon in?
It only lasted a few months. (the rubber hose and clamp). Check my comments where I describe to someone how to install a splice kit found on Amazon
@@robbieraychannel In a way you made a one way valve, sure holds vaccum but positive pressure probably snakes by. I wonder if it can be aluminum welded? Nice to know the dorman option. I'll need to check this out on my Enclave.
This is a common issue for sure.
Is that the rear ac line with the hole in it?
yes I think it is and it go's all the way to the rear in one piece. GM must have installed these lines before installing the engine.
I need to go digging
Any idea on the part #?
If you were talking about the factory aluminum hard lines they go all the way back to the evaporator at the rear of the truck and they are about $400 or $500 and you can find them on dealer websites online. You can avoid this by using A/ C block off plates found on Amazon I have it listed in the description section if you read it .they are cheap and it will eliminate the rear air-conditioning but the front air-conditioning on the dash will still work.
I got the same issue
Same thing happened to mine last year 2010 travers. I used quick steel around the hole and it fixed it right up.
Thanks Daniel I'll keep that in mind
Did the quick steel hold up?
Till this day it’s still holding on pretty good