Ray, you and Eric O., in complete honesty, are just the best on-line mechanics ever. You both have the perfect personalities for these video’s. I am not positive what that certain thing is, but you guys got it and I really appreciate your video’s. It is the first thing that I do every morning when I wake up. Thank you again.
Agree. This guy goes Beast Mode. One more "how could I even attempt this" video. And like Poppi's comment below, I would likely burn stuff down. Including my shop. This job has 'suck' written all over it, and likely very expensive. But vids like these are really cool to see exactly what some jobs like this actually entail. And his comments are hilarious. I'd be towing this in (hopefully to him) with a lot of broken stuff. I've gotten pretty handy over the years, pretty decent collection of tools and a decent metal shed (no lift tho) but like Clint said, " A man's gotta know his limitations." (I usually figure that out much later than sooner).
@@aaronkellerctr I have acquired Rays *dood dle doo* phone mimic as well as FLASHLIGHT gravity(or whatever ive dropped+ gravity) Also, accentuating the emphasis of Wobbly Bits. Because wobbly is a fun word, naturally Wob-bull-lee said somewhat emphatically makes the base wobble wibble with more excited kibbly bits Cuz you gotta know, thats what my dogs always eat, the kibbly bits. Ray is a great example of mind over matter. I spent far too long just yelling and throwing tools, like a child, before I matured/ran out of energy to throw tools(tantrums) and ascended to the more focused mindset ray displays. Car stuff can and will just poo in your lap with broken bolts or real crap bolt locations, it never helped me any throwing a fit. .....If i ever find a way to throw a childish fit and have broken bolts or taps or whatnot just cooperate or remove themselves, I 100% will make a detailed video. Id also look forward to a nobel Mechanics peace prize between the corrosion nation and the fastener nation. Historically, two famously cohesive groups that can never agree how to separate, despite seemingly lackadaisical interest in initial co-habitation. Everything changed when the corrosion nation attacked. Then changed again when Ray and the fire nation attacked back.
@@threadtapwhisperer5136 Yea, when I say "Beast Mode" I meant that with the utmost respect. Calm, collected, and always focused. Love his vids, even the boring ones where it's "customer says put it back together, further service declined". That has to be aggravating over time. Dude has to have at least 40k in cool azz tools. And he doesn't look that old.
Thanks for all the hard work on getting my truck back on the road. I knew we were going for a part 2 when 15 minutes in you were still torching flange bolts. If you were any closer to getting these videos up in real time, it'd be with a live stream! I don't know when you have time to sleep.
Dremel tool with cut off wheel. Cut enough to split the nut on both sides but not cut thread Five minutes. Been doing it for fifty years. Air chisel to pop the nut. Torch have used it takes to long. Used it to quickly remove heat froze bearing race in the past. Small tool for big jobs too.
Take the inner wheel well out Ray. Takes 5 minutes and everything is staring you right in the face. So much easier than from the top especially if dealing with broken bolts
I use what is called an induction heat gun for applications like this. You can actually form the element into a coil shape to fit around the bolt or nut. No open flame and much less danger of setting anything on fire.
Hello Ray! Viewing your channel has been providing therapy and the much needed distraction from the grief of losing my wife recently. Just thought you should know the therapeutic effect watching you work has provided.
Ya! Real sorry to hear that too! Sometimes my wife is a pain in the but, however, if she past, I would really miss her voice ! I don’t know what to say ! Keep your chin up ! Again sorry !
Story from my youth... I had '78 GMC. 305 with headers. A favorite activity was driving alongside people on the highways, killing the ignition for a few seconds to allow fuel to be pushed into the exhaust, then keying back up. Very lucky that no one ever returned fire.
Used to do same until left ignition off for extended time and not only went BOOM big time it split the muffler. After that it sounded just like this Yukon after Ray unbolted the exhaust underneath. 😂
@@jacksigler2302 🤣🤣 I did the same Jack, big telecom company, that I worked back in the 1980's, we had Leyland sherpers as work vans. Used to drive through city streets as fast as possible in 2nd gear, turn ignition off, but with foot on the loud pedel (so neat petrol got sucked into engine), then turn ignition back on. F*CK 😳, Did that bang🤣🤣. But then we had to take the van into the workshop & explain to the workshop manager on how the exhaust muffler had blown off🤣🤣. We were only kids of 19 or 20yo. It a Wounder that we never ever blew the heads off of the engines 🤣🤣🤣🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Never have I watched tutorials (documentaries), whatever, with such intensity. When Ray is worried about parts and such, I find my jaw clenched, and rooting for the good guy Ray to win the day. I know, I’ve become emotionally invested in Ray’s success 😂😂😂😂
Lucky to be able to get in with the flame, many modern cars would be inaccessible and you'd burn up a load of plastic, hoses and wires. I've done plenty of drill and re-tap on manifolds over the years. British cars once used brass nuts, which was a great idea. They'd still seize, but when you applied torque, the nut would strip out and leave the stud thread intact. I've tried to keep it in check but I'm finding I need my regular morning Ray fix, with my morning coffee fix.
Watching the plugs and wires being removed from the even bank is why I dread working on newer vehicles with V8s. The engines have seemingly been shoehorned into a space barely enough to accommodate them and there's precious little room in which to maneuver hands and tools.
That open hand technique on the wrench is a must know especially for alignment guys that use those racks all the time. It reminds me of a time I got the wrong torque to yield axle bolt for a vw. Suppose to be 150ft/lbs and a quarter turn for the proper bolt. Service writer told me to make what I got work, which entailed 200ft/lb and HALF a turn. Breaker bar and a 5 foot pipe was needed. Needless to say my hands were open as I put my 240 pounds on it and floated above the concrete.
It's so much better to watch than it was to do. I still like mechanical work, but just as a spectator now. Thank you for your efforts. A good mechanic is worth twice his weight in gold.
Mr. Ray, the amazing thing about your mechanic abilities is you have to have knowledge on multiple brands of vehicles foreign and domestic. I'm fairly new to your channel and I have not seen a video of you getting stumped or referring a job to another mechanic. Great content, and great narration.
*I had to remove a 10mm cap-nut from a variator on a 'CVT' transmission and could NOT move it and tried every trick in the book except using a 'cheater-bar' for fear it might damage the threads on the spindle* ( *That would mean an expensive part and tearing everything down to replace it if damaged* ) __________ *I bought a hammer-drill at 'Wally' and still 'No joy in Mudville' so I thought on it for awhile and bent a dime w/pliers just enough so it would fit inside the socket, racked on the power and IT WORKED!* *The cap-nut came off 'easy-peasy'* ( *I had tried transmission fluid/propane torch/spearmint oil/more heat soak/and nothing worked!* ) *A dime did the trick w/o having to look-for special sockets and buy a set*
*ps...I forgot to mention I drilled holes into the cap-nut thinking it could help to relieve tension of the nut on the threads...that didn't work either*
I like how you worry about our vision. This is your job, whether we can see is less important than you being able to see. We are all appreciative of what you do let us see every video.
For the beginning mechanics out there. For the exhaust bolts that are stuck I use a propane or MAPP gas torch and spray with PB blaster too cool it. That’s helped me a lot.
cooling it with PB blaster (or wd40 also works) is actually a great idea and does a lot better than straight heat. it quenches the outside so the bolt doesnt round so easily while still being hot enough on the inside to hopefully let it come loose. if a couple attempts with that doesnt work, its gone and time to cut it.
Great video. I have a 5.3 LS, and I actually preventatively replaced all of my exhaust manifold bolts. Quick, cheap, and easy job to do every 100,000 kms. The key is to not let them get so aged that they break.
Great Morning to you Ray, Those types of jobs are a bear to do much less watch someone else perform the task. I live in the heat and beat state of Wisconsin. Here are the steps we use , Heat , Beat, Repeat, till disassemble is Complete. Thanks for the great videos 😁
Bolt broke off flush with head years ago on 1978 Monte Carlo. Used a carbide bit to drill out stud. Plan was to insert Zerk thread. Punched into water jacket. Pumped hole full of JB Weld. It worked
Everyone should know by now, it takes sometimes days for penetrating oil to saturate rusty treads, something like these Manifold, tail pipe bolts are a true test for penetrating oil--the torch like Ray is using is often last resort...
Ray I've watched your videos. For a long time. And I want to thank you very much. I've been learning from you and Erica O SMA... And you should teach classes everyone could learn from you. No matter the job you try to bring out the good. Keep up the great content. Look forward to the next videos. Thank you very much.
Ray, I think my '92 Rodeo is going to be the same way to repair. There are several exhaust manifold bolts broken in both cylinder heads. I find your videos most informative. Keep up the good work! Guy Franks
if you cant get that back bolt out they make repair kits. its a bracket that bolts to the rear of the head on a unused bolt. then you thread another bolt through the bracket to keep tension on the manifold. did it on my tahoe 5 years ago. no exhaust leaks yet. 298k miles
im sitting here with a cuppa watching u mend exhaust manifold while waiting for parts to be delivered to repair my exhaust, happy jubilee day from the UK
You know that before accountants designed cars...the design engineers, at least in the UK, used long brass nuts on good quality exhaust studs as OEM. Brass doesn't rust. Brass nuts unscrew easily. Brass nuts are cheap compared with the time and effort it takes to deal with steel nuts. Bring back big brass nuts for the studs.
7:00 I've had to call on the hot wrench a few times with exhaust fasteners. They get heat cycled into oblivion. I snapped the studs off just below the nuts on my Camaro's flange. I got a tool from Napa auto parts with about four or so sockets of various sizes. The sockets have three rollers in the walls that grip the stud when you go to loosen them. After soaking the studs in PB Blaster I was able to twist them out.
Trick I was taught many years ago, and can't say it's ever let me down, is while still hot, tighten each bolt ¼ turn first, and they just screw right out.
Me as well. Got a few nasty burns. Then i got a welder and gloves. But the trick never failed but a few times. I didn’t like pulling heads to drill and tap but it was what it was.
Ugh I hate doing exhaust bolts, it's a myriad of experience to get them out. Heat, PBlaster, pray, loosen, tighten....some come out, some snap off, it varies. Labor intensive usually. I did all my tricks on a Cummins diesel that was a generator engine on a barge. Got them all out except the last one that was a rusted and wasted away from salt environment ...kerrrsnap....even on the head. Drilled and tapped it, luckily it was easy to get to.
Interesting… This morning before you posted this video, I happened to watch two Eric O. videos from one year ago where he was doing the exact same job on a very similar GMC truck! I thought it was interesting being able to compare how you each attacked the difficult job of replacing the two exhaust manifolds, both with broken studs. GREAT video as always Ray! Thank you!
I have used a mig welder to remove broken studs in aluminum heads. Even recessed 1/4 inch. Build up and weld a nut and boom. Sometimes takes more than one try.
I used the hot wrench on the y pipe bolts on an old blazer and promptly set the insulation pad for the air conditioning evaporator on fire. Tight space and flames are a fun combination. At least I had a fire extinguisher on hand.
Anytime I'm doing plugs on those motors I ALWAYS recommend wires too. Especially if it's got some miles on it. I'd say about 40-50% of the time at least one of them breaks. Edit: I know you're working on a flat stall, but those manifolds come out a lot easier if you go through the wheel well at least from my experience.
G'day Ray, when the bolt broke flush with the head or even the manifold flange we used to weld a large flat washer to the broken stud first and then weld a nut to the washer.. often allows the use of a bigger nut for improved gotcha....
Those Y pipe nuts have only had 18 years to get cozy with the studs. Another like added to the 10K already garnered. I enjoy your videos and your analyses as you work. One thought: it may be time to put the "click" terminology to bed. I hope you have a great weekend.
Hey Ray, when handling hot stuff there is a marvelous new invention called gloves, you might want to check it out. ..I jest of course, thanks for sharing your time and expertise with us. Entertaining us as well.
I’m my experience, it’s best to break all of the bolts loose and then go back and remove them all. This keep the manifold flat and from binding and making the last bolts more likely to snap.
I work on Industrial HAVC/R on the east coast and we have to deal with screws like this. It gets to the point that we grab our torches and say “it can’t be tight if it is liquid. And we will liquify the screw, bolt or nut.
No frozen bolts or studs heat up with tourch, dab on plain old candle wax. Let it soak into the threads, work it back and forth, may have to apply several times. It works.
My dad was an auto mechanic for 40 years. He would use Mr. Oxy/Acetlyene and heat exhaust bolts, nuts , pipes and mufflers then douse them with cold water. He said it breaks the rust bonding components together. Lube/penetrant doesn't hurt either. His only complaint was it seemed to him the customers only brought the cars needing exhaust work on rainy muddy days.
Few years ago i helped another mechanic do exactly same thing on Nissan Moreno on a lift outdoors. The exhaust bolts would not come off until hit it with torch. Forgot to mention the temperature was below 32° and wind blowing about 15-20 mph
Back in the mid 1960s I worked at Midas in BC, Canada. We would HOT WRENCH [heat the nuts with a torch] the manifold to exhaust pipe nuts. The always came off, even the god awful Corvair exhaust pipe to head stud nuts.
I'm glad to see you break the spark plug wire. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra with the same motor. I broke one when I replaced the plugs. Thought it was a rookie mistake. I guess not.
I used to watch this guy, this amazing guy, fix trucks and things....until he had to start bleeping his hilarious work...I hope you already know about him, but if not, take a look at his older stuff first, over a year, and tell me what you think.... His channel is Zip Ties N Bias Plies .....I love you both for different reasons, and if you watch him, he knows what he is talking about, I think you will be takin in....what is there for you to lose?
A nut splitter works well on the manifold/exhaust pipe flange nuts and will completely negate the chance of breaking the studs off in the manifold. Can't wait to see you get that broken off under- flush bolt in the head.
@@mph5896 bingo. I bought one years ago and have yet to use it successfully. It's either too big for the area or the nut is in such poor shape the tool refuses to bite as desired.
@@tomstiel7576 you are wrong, I have a good quality splitter that I've used successfully quite a few times in exactly the same circumstances Ray was working there, it worked fine. Technique is the key. I can understand there are some inaccessible situations but with the amount of clearances on that particular manifold around those bolts the right size splitter will work.
Seems after reading most comments most have a better way to get the bolts out with little to no problem, would love to see anyone do it better then Ray can.....talk is exactly that, talk......
This video gave me flashbacks to last week when I was tearing my 5.3 down to the short block (literally destroyed gaskets). I had 3 previously broken manifold bolts on mine. The front and rear on the driver side, and the rear one on the passenger sides. The rest spun right loose. I managed to buzz off all 6 y-pipe nuts with just my big 1/2" cordless impact. I was fully prepared for them to snap, but amazingly, none of them did. NGK plugs? Nice. It would've been nice to see those in my truck, but instead it had a set of Champions. I almost vomited.
Once the nut is broken use oil then tighten back up. Do next one using same procedure.Once all have been broken then remove all with power wrench . This way the manifold doesnt bind and make the last one harder to remove.
I wonder why the change... probably the 2 cents they saved using steel? Maybe brass on stainless steel so neither would rust? Not sure of there are metal issues with SS there.
Ray, you still put continued pressure on the stem of the manifold bolts by slowly pulling your extension to loosen without the best way of applying some penetrating oil and then after a short while to allow it to soak in, take up any slack on your wrench and then hit the wrench handle very quickly with the palm of you hand acting like an impact wrench manually, in India where they do have modern tools like you, this method is used quite often. Very rarely have I snapped a bolt using this method from manifold and flange bolts, its the speed at which you thump the wrench handle that shocks the nut to loosen, back and forth nut movement is a must as well. You should already know of this method Ray.
Sounds like you have the torch set a little high, turn it to about 20 lb oxygen that about three-and-a-half to about 4 lb of acetylene. I have cut as much as three-quarter inch steel with that setting and it's still heats up things just fine
A thin strip of paper towel under the electrical tape will keep the tape’s adhesive goo off your finger when you remove the tape. Nothing like the electrical tape “double ring” at the end of the day.
Broken manifold bolts Super common on older 5.3's. They break off just below the head. Almost all of them I've owned you have to drill those bolts out. If you're lucky you can get them out with an easy out or grab them by the stud and twist them out.
All these comments and I wonder who is actually a mechanic? I'm 15 years deep in the trade and this guy is the only guy on you tube I've seen that is an actual mechanic. I'm Based in Canberra Australia and I'm doing an engine change in Ram 5.7l atm. It's built like the older jeeps and i'ts a pain the newer jeeps are easy to work on..
I'm glad I have the time to let penetration oil work to it's full extent compared to the professionals. I can spray the fasteners one weekend and remove them the next weekend with no problems. Professionals don't have that luxury.
Try placing a short length of appropriate diameter copper tube in the sunken bolt well to protect the exposed thread, and mig weld a mini tower of tac welds to the bolt, proud of the block surface. Weld a nut to the tac weld tower and then try removing the broken bolt.
Looks like a tough angle to make that weld blind. Also got to be careful because aluminum melts at a much lower temperature than steel. It could mess up the threads, but you can always chase them out. I'm not sure how I would handle this, I look forward to seeing what ends up working.
Those are such a pain especially up here in Maine. Sometimes I get lucky and the y pipe flange bolts will come out with just bringing it in up to temp and cracking those and the manifold bolts loose. But I had a motor replacement on a 08 Chevy, and the customer wanted long tubes put back on. Of course the replacement came with manifolds and I decided while it was out I was just going to impact them off. Couldn't budge them with a rachet, and extracting them while it was out would be alot easier. They all came out with my DeWalt 1/2" impact. One was already broken but it had enough to get vice grips on, a little heat and it came out easy. Atleast once a week I tell myself I wish I was in Florida or somewhere that everything didn't rust quick.
I had this same problem and had the same solution and just replaced manifolds with shorty headers and some random stud kit and just checked the torque periodically found a few that were loose after 4 or so heat cycles the stud on drivers side nearest the firewall is the absolute worst one to get out when it breaks flush with the head but it's doable with determination love the vids tho they will teach for years to come keep wrenching my friend. (Jumped the gun lol I see you had the same bolt in same spot man that sucks)
Ohh exhaust manifold bolts everybody favourite repair! Looks like its time for a spark plug change! 🎶Broken in the head 🎶 Broken in the head🎶We will come rejoicing 🎶Broken in the head🎶😀. 😮 Oh no a video #2 😮 but I still have whiskey in my glass!
Feel your pain lucky here we don’t have many American cars with the V8 motors Unfortunately for me got a customer who likes American V8’s been working on 2007 Escalade L92 6.2 done full engine rebuild so too had few bolts snapped but didn’t care much as engine as coming out anyway so anything snapped was repaired once engine was out Take care and all the best
A trick that I have used many times is to heat the bolt to cherry red and immediately stick a wax candle to the bolt near the threads. The wax will wick into the threads and the nut will come right off. Also works for broken studs, stuck pipe fitting in an engine block.
nope, just puts wax in the way. spraying the hot bolt with wd40 or something to quench it would work way better. project farm tested it and he does some surprisingly good testing
I've always been told spray down the stuck bolts then get the easy stuff while penetration is happening. Maybe spray a few times. Hasn't worked for me yet but it makes me feel better about failing. Oh also I'll keep asking until you see it.... Do a video on the assault air gun! 😊
It makes the nuts spin on the dirty threads better once they are loose. BUT it also makes all your tools and hands a grimy mess in the process. I wire brush rusty studs before running the nuts over them if they are accessible. Do that ALOT on suspension components I am reusing.
They make a kit that bolts into the front of the block and pushes the exhaust mani back. Pretty cheap too. Had an 06 suburban and tried this kit because a bunch of bolts had snapped (super common on these as I’m sure you know). Kit worked like a charm, and pretty cheap. Off rock auto too
I saw somewhere hitting it up and putting wax on the bolt helps alot. Not sure if that would have worked in this case but maybe try it next time for some overly hard bolt action?
Part 2 is Ready! ruclips.net/video/QEfIqy9tuNI/видео.html
Beat them into submission
Ray, you and Eric O., in complete honesty, are just the best on-line mechanics ever. You both have the perfect personalities for these video’s. I am not positive what that certain thing is, but you guys got it and I really appreciate your video’s. It is the first thing that I do every morning when I wake up. Thank you again.
Agree. This guy goes Beast Mode. One more "how could I even attempt this" video. And like Poppi's comment below, I would likely burn stuff down. Including my shop. This job has 'suck' written all over it, and likely very expensive. But vids like these are really cool to see exactly what some jobs like this actually entail. And his comments are hilarious. I'd be towing this in (hopefully to him) with a lot of broken stuff. I've gotten pretty handy over the years, pretty decent collection of tools and a decent metal shed (no lift tho) but like Clint said, " A man's gotta know his limitations." (I usually figure that out much later than sooner).
Well said and totally agree two of my favorite channels to watch.
@@aaronkellerctr I have acquired Rays *dood dle doo* phone mimic as well as FLASHLIGHT gravity(or whatever ive dropped+ gravity)
Also, accentuating the emphasis of Wobbly Bits.
Because wobbly is a fun word, naturally Wob-bull-lee said somewhat emphatically makes the base wobble wibble with more excited kibbly bits
Cuz you gotta know, thats what my dogs always eat, the kibbly bits.
Ray is a great example of mind over matter. I spent far too long just yelling and throwing tools, like a child, before I matured/ran out of energy to throw tools(tantrums) and ascended to the more focused mindset ray displays.
Car stuff can and will just poo in your lap with broken bolts or real crap bolt locations, it never helped me any throwing a fit.
.....If i ever find a way to throw a childish fit and have broken bolts or taps or whatnot just cooperate or remove themselves, I 100% will make a detailed video. Id also look forward to a nobel Mechanics peace prize between the corrosion nation and the fastener nation. Historically, two famously cohesive groups that can never agree how to separate, despite seemingly lackadaisical interest in initial co-habitation.
Everything changed when the corrosion nation attacked.
Then changed again when Ray and the fire nation attacked back.
@@threadtapwhisperer5136 Yea, when I say "Beast Mode" I meant that with the utmost respect. Calm, collected, and always focused. Love his vids, even the boring ones where it's "customer says put it back together, further service declined". That has to be aggravating over time. Dude has to have at least 40k in cool azz tools. And he doesn't look that old.
I think that they both use the same editing software.
Thanks for all the hard work on getting my truck back on the road. I knew we were going for a part 2 when 15 minutes in you were still torching flange bolts. If you were any closer to getting these videos up in real time, it'd be with a live stream! I don't know when you have time to sleep.
You’re very lucky to have a first class technician to work on your vehicle!
as the owner of that vehicle very proud of having a great mechanic getting you back on the road😊
Dremel tool with cut off wheel. Cut enough to split the nut on both sides but not cut thread Five minutes. Been doing it for fifty years. Air chisel to pop the nut. Torch have used it takes to long. Used it to quickly remove heat froze bearing race in the past. Small tool for big jobs too.
Take the inner wheel well out Ray. Takes 5 minutes and everything is staring you right in the face. So much easier than from the top especially if dealing with broken bolts
And You would be Correct...
Definitely
Yup
You right, but still one of the crappiest jobs to do. Damn those manifold bolts.
This is how I did my plugs and wires. Highly recommended lol
Thats a lesson to all stuck bolts and nuts, if you dont come loose when asked to open, you get a visit from Terry the Torch.
AKA fire wrench
Cant be tight if its liquid
Gas axe
I use what is called an induction heat gun for applications like this. You can actually form the element into a coil shape to fit around the bolt or nut. No open flame and much less danger of setting anything on fire.
I actually wondered if something like that existed to apply heat vs open flame. Thanks!
@@angelr8892
And it works great.
Good tip. I know I'm not brave enough to use a torch like Ray does.
Aw where's the fun in that
Would be interested to see that in action ...ray take note
Hello Ray! Viewing your channel has been providing therapy and the much needed distraction from the grief of losing my wife recently. Just thought you should know the therapeutic effect watching you work has provided.
So sorry to hear that your wife is no longer with you🙏. But she will always be with you in your heart and soul my friend😉🇬🇧🇬🇧
Ya! Real sorry to hear that too! Sometimes my wife is a pain in the but, however, if she past, I would really miss her voice ! I don’t know what to say ! Keep your chin up ! Again sorry !
@@stephenwilliams6103 Your kind words are appreciated
@@fredwalker839 Thank you
@@sand0077 people in your situation, make my worries seem so insucnicifant 😔. You are in our thoughts and prayers my friend🙏😊
Story from my youth... I had '78 GMC. 305 with headers. A favorite activity was driving alongside people on the highways, killing the ignition for a few seconds to allow fuel to be pushed into the exhaust, then keying back up. Very lucky that no one ever returned fire.
Used to do same until left ignition off for extended time and not only went BOOM big time it split the muffler. After that it sounded just like this Yukon after Ray unbolted the exhaust underneath. 😂
@@jacksigler2302 🤣🤣 I did the same Jack, big telecom company, that I worked back in the 1980's, we had Leyland sherpers as work vans. Used to drive through city streets as fast as possible in 2nd gear, turn ignition off, but with foot on the loud pedel (so neat petrol got sucked into engine), then turn ignition back on. F*CK 😳, Did that bang🤣🤣. But then we had to take the van into the workshop & explain to the workshop manager on how the exhaust muffler had blown off🤣🤣. We were only kids of 19 or 20yo. It a Wounder that we never ever blew the heads off of the engines 🤣🤣🤣🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Never have I watched tutorials (documentaries), whatever, with such intensity. When Ray is worried about parts and such, I find my jaw clenched, and rooting for the good guy Ray to win the day. I know, I’ve become emotionally invested in Ray’s success 😂😂😂😂
ELO while removing spark plugs. Great choice of music.
Lucky to be able to get in with the flame, many modern cars would be inaccessible and you'd burn up a load of plastic, hoses and wires. I've done plenty of drill and re-tap on manifolds over the years. British cars once used brass nuts, which was a great idea. They'd still seize, but when you applied torque, the nut would strip out and leave the stud thread intact. I've tried to keep it in check but I'm finding I need my regular morning Ray fix, with my morning coffee fix.
You better post part 2!!!! Don't leave us hanging!!!! Thanks bro!!!
Watching the plugs and wires being removed from the even bank is why I dread working on newer vehicles with V8s. The engines have seemingly been shoehorned into a space barely enough to accommodate them and there's precious little room in which to maneuver hands and tools.
That open hand technique on the wrench is a must know especially for alignment guys that use those racks all the time. It reminds me of a time I got the wrong torque to yield axle bolt for a vw. Suppose to be 150ft/lbs and a quarter turn for the proper bolt. Service writer told me to make what I got work, which entailed 200ft/lb and HALF a turn. Breaker bar and a 5 foot pipe was needed. Needless to say my hands were open as I put my 240 pounds on it and floated above the concrete.
It's so much better to watch than it was to do. I still like mechanical work, but just as a spectator now. Thank you for your efforts. A good mechanic is worth twice his weight in gold.
Dude. You forgot to spray that cut with brake clean. Would made it nice an shiny
I can feeeeeeel the burn already. Lol
And we would never know if the screaming was from Ray or the germs.
You owe me a soda - out the nose on on the shirt.
Mr. Ray, the amazing thing about your mechanic abilities is you have to have knowledge on multiple brands of vehicles foreign and domestic. I'm fairly new to your channel and I have not seen a video of you getting stumped or referring a job to another mechanic. Great content, and great narration.
*I had to remove a 10mm cap-nut from a variator on a 'CVT' transmission and could NOT move it and tried every trick in the book except using a 'cheater-bar' for fear it might damage the threads on the spindle*
( *That would mean an expensive part and tearing everything down to replace it if damaged* )
__________
*I bought a hammer-drill at 'Wally' and still 'No joy in Mudville' so I thought on it for awhile and bent a dime w/pliers just enough so it would fit inside the socket, racked on the power and IT WORKED!*
*The cap-nut came off 'easy-peasy'*
( *I had tried transmission fluid/propane torch/spearmint oil/more heat soak/and nothing worked!* )
*A dime did the trick w/o having to look-for special sockets and buy a set*
*ps...I forgot to mention I drilled holes into the cap-nut thinking it could help to relieve tension
of the nut on the threads...that didn't work either*
Multiple extension bars only affects mechanical impact guns because they bounce the hammer, but has no effect on a lever breaker bar/ratchet wrench.
Torque Test Channel recently did a video about extensions and impact guns. Confirmed! Hoo boy, was it confirmed!
Hey Ray I just soaked the exhaust manifolds bolts overnight with penetrating oil, I used almost the whole can...but it worked.
I like how you worry about our vision. This is your job, whether we can see is less important than you being able to see. We are all appreciative of what you do let us see every video.
Ray, your close up camera work is the best out there. We see and learn exactly how to go about the repair. Learned alot from watching your video's!!
For the beginning mechanics out there. For the exhaust bolts that are stuck I use a propane or MAPP gas torch and spray with PB blaster too cool it. That’s helped me a lot.
cooling it with PB blaster (or wd40 also works) is actually a great idea and does a lot better than straight heat. it quenches the outside so the bolt doesnt round so easily while still being hot enough on the inside to hopefully let it come loose. if a couple attempts with that doesnt work, its gone and time to cut it.
Great video. I have a 5.3 LS, and I actually preventatively replaced all of my exhaust manifold bolts. Quick, cheap, and easy job to do every 100,000 kms. The key is to not let them get so aged that they break.
I like that when you turn subtitles on, when you hear the engine right at the beginning, it says "Music". RUclips knows its audience.
my son is graduating from UNOH next month and loves to watch your videos Keep up the great work!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Great Morning to you Ray, Those types of jobs are a bear to do much less watch someone else perform the task. I live in the heat and beat state of Wisconsin. Here are the steps we use , Heat , Beat, Repeat, till disassemble is Complete. Thanks for the great videos 😁
Whoa there I don't want to know that your saying sexual things to my car then beating it over and over again hahaha lol 😆
Bolt broke off flush with head years ago on 1978 Monte Carlo. Used a carbide bit to drill out stud. Plan was to insert Zerk thread. Punched into water jacket. Pumped hole full of JB Weld. It worked
Everyone should know by now, it takes sometimes days for penetrating oil to saturate rusty treads, something like these Manifold, tail pipe bolts are a true test for penetrating oil--the torch like Ray is using is often last resort...
Hooray for magic movie at 13 min!
Ray I've watched your videos. For a long time. And I want to thank you very much. I've been learning from you and
Erica O SMA... And you should teach classes everyone could learn from you. No matter the job you try to bring out the good.
Keep up the great content. Look forward to the next videos.
Thank you very much.
I pull the fender liners when I do truck exhaust manifolds. So much easier. For the broken bolts I weld a nut to it. Works like a champ.
Ray, I think my '92 Rodeo
is going to be the same way to repair. There are several exhaust manifold bolts broken in both cylinder heads. I find your videos most informative. Keep up the good work! Guy Franks
if you cant get that back bolt out they make repair kits. its a bracket that bolts to the rear of the head on a unused bolt. then you thread another bolt through the bracket to keep tension on the manifold. did it on my tahoe 5 years ago. no exhaust leaks yet. 298k miles
im sitting here with a cuppa watching u mend exhaust manifold while waiting for parts to be delivered to repair my exhaust, happy jubilee day from the UK
I'm not a close follower of your royal family but must admit your queen is amazing.
@@D45VR today was all about her and not her disgusting offspring bud
You know that before accountants designed cars...the design engineers, at least in the UK, used long brass nuts on good quality exhaust studs as OEM.
Brass doesn't rust.
Brass nuts unscrew easily.
Brass nuts are cheap compared with the time and effort it takes to deal with steel nuts.
Bring back big brass nuts for the studs.
7:00 I've had to call on the hot wrench a few times with exhaust fasteners. They get heat cycled into oblivion. I snapped the studs off just below the nuts on my Camaro's flange. I got a tool from Napa auto parts with about four or so sockets of various sizes. The sockets have three rollers in the walls that grip the stud when you go to loosen them. After soaking the studs in PB Blaster I was able to twist them out.
Trick I was taught many years ago, and can't say it's ever let me down, is while still hot, tighten each bolt ¼ turn first, and they just screw right out.
Me as well. Got a few nasty burns. Then i got a welder and gloves. But the trick never failed but a few times. I didn’t like pulling heads to drill and tap but it was what it was.
Ugh I hate doing exhaust bolts, it's a myriad of experience to get them out. Heat, PBlaster, pray, loosen, tighten....some come out, some snap off, it varies. Labor intensive usually. I did all my tricks on a Cummins diesel that was a generator engine on a barge. Got them all out except the last one that was a rusted and wasted away from salt environment ...kerrrsnap....even on the head. Drilled and tapped it, luckily it was easy to get to.
Interesting… This morning before you posted this video, I happened to watch two Eric O. videos from one year ago where he was doing the exact same job on a very similar GMC truck! I thought it was interesting being able to compare how you each attacked the difficult job of replacing the two exhaust manifolds, both with broken studs. GREAT video as always Ray! Thank you!
I can't tell you how many tips and tricks I have learned from South Main Auto. "MY GUY" is a master at rust and electrical diagnostics.
@@mph5896 right.
I have used a mig welder to remove broken studs in aluminum heads. Even recessed 1/4 inch. Build up and weld a nut and boom. Sometimes takes more than one try.
I used the hot wrench on the y pipe bolts on an old blazer and promptly set the insulation pad for the air conditioning evaporator on fire. Tight space and flames are a fun combination. At least I had a fire extinguisher on hand.
Can't wait for part 2!!!! Had that happen on my 1995 E-150 conversion van thousands of miles away from home!
Anytime I'm doing plugs on those motors I ALWAYS recommend wires too. Especially if it's got some miles on it. I'd say about 40-50% of the time at least one of them breaks.
Edit: I know you're working on a flat stall, but those manifolds come out a lot easier if you go through the wheel well at least from my experience.
Always use an acetylene torch when working with exhaust flange nuts and bolts first, don't assume they will come off naturally or they will break.
And always use an impact gun on rusted bolts. That action of how it ratchets back n forth really fast helps remove the fastener.
G'day Ray, when the bolt broke flush with the head or even the manifold flange we used to weld a large flat washer to the broken stud first and then weld a nut to the washer.. often allows the use of a bigger nut for improved gotcha....
Those Y pipe nuts have only had 18 years to get cozy with the studs. Another like added to the 10K already garnered. I enjoy your videos and your analyses as you work. One thought: it may be time to put the "click" terminology to bed. I hope you have a great weekend.
Re last comment, the method worked well on seized brake pipe nuts and bleed nipples, at wheel cylinders, where heating cylinder is not an option.
Hey Ray, when handling hot stuff there is a marvelous new invention called gloves, you might want to check it out. ..I jest of course, thanks for sharing your time and expertise with us. Entertaining us as well.
I’m my experience, it’s best to break all of the bolts loose and then go back and remove them all. This keep the manifold flat and from binding and making the last bolts more likely to snap.
You are right. But it does not prevent the bolts to break first off ...
I’ve snapped some “dog ears” off too. Best not to get in a hurry and have a couple extra hands helps too.
I work on Industrial HAVC/R on the east coast and we have to deal with screws like this. It gets to the point that we grab our torches and say “it can’t be tight if it is liquid. And we will liquify the screw, bolt or nut.
I was sitting here saying. " Get the blue wrench " I've broken so many studs it's a no brainer.
No frozen bolts or studs heat up with tourch, dab on plain old candle wax. Let it soak into the threads, work it back and forth, may have to apply several times. It works.
You should have a induction heater for the hard bolts and screws, works damn good.
Rainman and coffee first thing in the morning.
And impact. On those they will come right of. And I do it in the northeast rust belt.
They need the shock of the hammer mechanism.
My dad was an auto mechanic for 40 years. He would use Mr. Oxy/Acetlyene and heat exhaust bolts, nuts , pipes and mufflers then douse them with cold water. He said it breaks the rust bonding components together. Lube/penetrant doesn't hurt either. His only complaint was it seemed to him the customers only brought the cars needing exhaust work on rainy muddy days.
Few years ago i helped another mechanic do exactly same thing on Nissan Moreno on a lift outdoors. The exhaust bolts would not come off until hit it with torch. Forgot to mention the temperature was below 32° and wind blowing about 15-20 mph
See you in the spring. sir. We are all booked solid until then. LOL
It’s like…. Sure I’ll give you a hand……then after an hour of getting nowhere…… you think ,,,, what did I get myself into ! LOL
Back in the mid 1960s I worked at Midas in BC, Canada. We would HOT WRENCH [heat the nuts with a torch] the manifold to exhaust pipe nuts. The always came off, even the god awful Corvair exhaust pipe to head stud nuts.
I'm glad to see you break the spark plug wire. I have a 2004 GMC Sierra with the same motor. I broke one when I replaced the plugs. Thought it was a rookie mistake. I guess not.
That old school Bulldog alarm going off in the background brought back lots of memories...😂
I used to watch this guy, this amazing guy, fix trucks and things....until he had to start bleeping his hilarious work...I hope you already know about him, but if not, take a look at his older stuff first, over a year, and tell me what you think.... His channel is Zip Ties N Bias Plies .....I love you both for different reasons, and if you watch him, he knows what he is talking about, I think you will be takin in....what is there for you to lose?
A nut splitter works well on the manifold/exhaust pipe flange nuts and will completely negate the chance of breaking the studs off in the manifold. Can't wait to see you get that broken off under- flush bolt in the head.
In theory, yes. Practicality, a nut splitter fits basically nowhere since everything is crammed in.
@@mph5896 bingo. I bought one years ago and have yet to use it successfully. It's either too big for the area or the nut is in such poor shape the tool refuses to bite as desired.
@@paisleyprince5280 need one of those "Induction" type heaters.
those are useless implements
@@tomstiel7576 you are wrong, I have a good quality splitter that I've used successfully quite a few times in exactly the same circumstances Ray was working there, it worked fine. Technique is the key. I can understand there are some inaccessible situations but with the amount of clearances on that particular manifold around those bolts the right size splitter will work.
Seems after reading most comments most have a better way to get the bolts out with little to no problem, would love to see anyone do it better then Ray can.....talk is exactly that, talk......
This video gave me flashbacks to last week when I was tearing my 5.3 down to the short block (literally destroyed gaskets). I had 3 previously broken manifold bolts on mine. The front and rear on the driver side, and the rear one on the passenger sides. The rest spun right loose. I managed to buzz off all 6 y-pipe nuts with just my big 1/2" cordless impact. I was fully prepared for them to snap, but amazingly, none of them did.
NGK plugs? Nice. It would've been nice to see those in my truck, but instead it had a set of Champions. I almost vomited.
That workshop is an active discotheque..Nice
Once the nut is broken use oil then tighten back up. Do next one using same procedure.Once all have been broken then remove all with power wrench . This way the manifold doesnt bind and make the last one harder to remove.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Chevy exhaust !
Many years ago, manufacturers used to use brass nuts on steel bolts, they never had problems taking the exhaust manifolds off or having broken studs.
I wonder why the change... probably the 2 cents they saved using steel? Maybe brass on stainless steel so neither would rust? Not sure of there are metal issues with SS there.
Ray, you still put continued pressure on the stem of the manifold bolts by slowly pulling your extension to loosen without the best way of applying some penetrating oil and then after a short while to allow it to soak in, take up any slack on your wrench and then hit the wrench handle very quickly with the palm of you hand acting like an impact wrench manually, in India where they do have modern tools like you, this method is used quite often. Very rarely have I snapped a bolt using this method from manifold and flange bolts, its the speed at which you thump the wrench handle that shocks the nut to loosen, back and forth nut movement is a must as well. You should already know of this method Ray.
Sounds like you have the torch set a little high, turn it to about 20 lb oxygen that about three-and-a-half to about 4 lb of acetylene. I have cut as much as three-quarter inch steel with that setting and it's still heats up things just fine
I was actually planning on looking into that, I don’t think is regulated properly. This torch needs a new tip too.
A thin strip of paper towel under the electrical tape will keep the tape’s adhesive goo off your finger when you remove the tape. Nothing like the electrical tape “double ring” at the end of the day.
Or use white tape - no black goo.
Broken manifold bolts Super common on older 5.3's. They break off just below the head. Almost all of them I've owned you have to drill those bolts out. If you're lucky you can get them out with an easy out or grab them by the stud and twist them out.
All these comments and I wonder who is actually a mechanic? I'm 15 years deep in the trade and this guy is the only guy on you tube I've seen that is an actual mechanic. I'm Based in Canberra Australia and I'm doing an engine change in Ram 5.7l atm. It's built like the older jeeps and i'ts a pain the newer jeeps are easy to work on..
Internet experts 😜
Induction bolt heater and dry ice are the most valuable tools.
Wow dude! I've never seen that done before with a torch and impact. Clearly it works!! Lol nicely done!
Excellent job so far Ray looking forward to part 2 and extraction time.
I'm glad I have the time to let penetration oil work to it's full extent compared to the professionals. I can spray the fasteners one weekend and remove them the next weekend with no problems. Professionals don't have that luxury.
I hear ya!
Try placing a short length of appropriate diameter copper tube in the sunken bolt well to protect the exposed thread, and mig weld a mini tower of tac welds to the bolt, proud of the block surface. Weld a nut to the tac weld tower and then try removing the broken bolt.
They make easy to install clamps for broken manifold bolts. I’ve used a bunch of them on engines you don’t want to put a ton of time into
Are you the guy that's putting those on? FYI I've replaced alot of leaking manifolds that already had those clamps on. They don't last very long
@@HoLeeFuk317 worked fine for me.
Looks like a tough angle to make that weld blind. Also got to be careful because aluminum melts at a much lower temperature than steel. It could mess up the threads, but you can always chase them out. I'm not sure how I would handle this, I look forward to seeing what ends up working.
Pull the heads!
Those are such a pain especially up here in Maine. Sometimes I get lucky and the y pipe flange bolts will come out with just bringing it in up to temp and cracking those and the manifold bolts loose. But I had a motor replacement on a 08 Chevy, and the customer wanted long tubes put back on. Of course the replacement came with manifolds and I decided while it was out I was just going to impact them off. Couldn't budge them with a rachet, and extracting them while it was out would be alot easier. They all came out with my DeWalt 1/2" impact. One was already broken but it had enough to get vice grips on, a little heat and it came out easy. Atleast once a week I tell myself I wish I was in Florida or somewhere that everything didn't rust quick.
I had this same problem and had the same solution and just replaced manifolds with shorty headers and some random stud kit and just checked the torque periodically found a few that were loose after 4 or so heat cycles the stud on drivers side nearest the firewall is the absolute worst one to get out when it breaks flush with the head but it's doable with determination love the vids tho they will teach for years to come keep wrenching my friend. (Jumped the gun lol I see you had the same bolt in same spot man that sucks)
When I lived in new York state Monroe muffler just went with the heat wrench and cut them off. Less time consuming
My brother's Escape had some broken manifold bolts. He had the manifold machined flat, then it sealed satisfactorily with the remaining bolts.
Ohh exhaust manifold bolts everybody favourite repair! Looks like its time for a spark plug change! 🎶Broken in the head 🎶 Broken in the head🎶We will come rejoicing 🎶Broken in the head🎶😀. 😮 Oh no a video #2 😮 but I still have whiskey in my glass!
Yes, I would have said "DADGUMMIT" at least 10 times during that job. Forgive the strong language.
Feel your pain lucky here we don’t have many American cars with the V8 motors
Unfortunately for me got a customer who likes American V8’s been working on 2007 Escalade L92 6.2 done full engine rebuild so too had few bolts snapped but didn’t care much as engine as coming out anyway so anything snapped was repaired once engine was out
Take care and all the best
Two words, MECHANICS GLOVES! I hate them but in these instances, they're a godsend. And it's ALWAYS the rearmost/most inaccessible bolts that break.
"I'm ahead of myself" great substitute to I Forgot Somthin.
It works 100 percent of the time (60 percent of the time)
I'm stealing this
I heat it like you then blast cold water on it to cool it. Works every time.
A trick that I have used many times is to heat the bolt to cherry red and immediately stick a wax candle to the bolt near the threads. The wax will wick into the threads and the nut will come right off. Also works for broken studs, stuck pipe fitting in an engine block.
nope, just puts wax in the way. spraying the hot bolt with wd40 or something to quench it would work way better. project farm tested it and he does some surprisingly good testing
@@bradhaines3142 wax has worked flawlessly for me over the years. To each their own.
I've always been told spray down the stuck bolts then get the easy stuff while penetration is happening. Maybe spray a few times.
Hasn't worked for me yet but it makes me feel better about failing.
Oh also I'll keep asking until you see it.... Do a video on the assault air gun! 😊
He did a video on that two in fact
@@lechatbotte. OMG how did I miss that one? I've been watching pretty much every day for about a year fml. Thanks for the reply!
It makes the nuts spin on the dirty threads better once they are loose. BUT it also makes all your tools and hands a grimy mess in the process.
I wire brush rusty studs before running the nuts over them if they are accessible. Do that ALOT on suspension components I am reusing.
This is a nice Chevrolet Suburban, one of a kind.
I've been watching your
videos for sometime now, and happy to see that you don't use the parts cannon.
I was in this business for over 40yrs
And of coarse,,, your baskin in the sun with a ton of money buried in your yard ! LOL
They make a kit that bolts into the front of the block and pushes the exhaust mani back. Pretty cheap too. Had an 06 suburban and tried this kit because a bunch of bolts had snapped (super common on these as I’m sure you know). Kit worked like a charm, and pretty cheap. Off rock auto too
The return of the wobbly bits. Nicely done.
I saw somewhere hitting it up and putting wax on the bolt helps alot. Not sure if that would have worked in this case but maybe try it next time for some overly hard bolt action?