A Complete Guide on How to Delete the PCV System on A 1990-1996 Nissan 300zx
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- Опубликовано: 18 май 2020
- This video describes on how to delete the PCV system on a 1990-1996 NA Nissan 300zx! With Z32's getting older and older by the day, our PCV valves tend to fail frequently. When this occurs it allows oil to blow into the intake plenum which cause "blow bye". By deleting this system we are just making the car fail proof. When doing this you will need to run a oil catch can for crank case ventilation purposes. This is the best in depth video out there for the Z Car. I enjoyed making it and hopefully it is helpful for your current or future builds!
Parts Used:
- Amazon Oil Catch Can
- 15 feet of 5/8 Heater Hose
- CZP PCV delete Plugs
- 1/4 NPT Plugs
- Red Locktight
- Hose Clamps
- Coolant hose rubber caps 
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Great info f9r those who have no clue. However. You vaccum hoses off of you intake pipes are turning so hard that are pinched off. Ie. No vaccum source from intake system
Can be seen @07:00
90 degree elbows were installed
Where can i find that single intake filter
@@hkzone9532 z1 motorsports!
@@hkzone9532 that thing is HUGE!!
The definitive guide to Z32 deletes. 🙌 Great video
Thank you!
Love the video!! Very informational!! Appreciate the content!!
fantastic content, keep em coming, love knowing and seeing the z's getting love. helping me understand everything that there is to delete off the car. :)
Thank you for the support!
I see the engine back in and feel like we have missed a lot! Hope we will see a video on the new stainless steel clutch line and all the other aspects of the engine-out progress.
You def will, I just wanted to post this up because a few people asked for it asap
Glad I came across your page. Great to see a AH3 on the road, i had a NA, that was my daily a few years ago, I just picked up a TT that's non running, but will be getting all of the deletes 🤣
Did notice you got a fat kink on the Driver's side.
That's awesome. And some 90 degree angles were tossed in there so no more kinks
Sick keep making videos!
Have a few coming up!!
Great info thanks. My is twin turbo but I understand how to do it. Thanks.
How did you sort this on tt ?
Now this is strange, I did exactly the same PCV delete with the same oil catch can bolted at the same location a year ago ! Only difference the can outpout hose is connected to a fitting I installed on maf intake tube right behind the MAF.
Nice and clear!.. tps now please. And air adjustment.
Coming up soon!
Gravity says those tubes that are lower than the catch can become the catch can XD I Do appreciate the info tho :)
I Appreciate your videos. Where did you purchase the big rubber caps.
You can find them at any local auto parts store.
Is that kink on the intake on the driver's side going to cause issues? Would a 90° elbow be a good idea?
It is a kink, I was able to work it out later when I looked over everything.
Greetings Thank you very much for these very practical help ... Please I need to know if this delete PCV system can be done on my 1991 300zx Twin turbo ... THANK YOU
PCV delete can also be done on TTs, good luck with the build!
Question bro I follow you in the forums haha I’m always working on my Z it has a lot of problems . But on the driver side valve cover . The line that come off the back end, and turns 90 degrees , you obviously plug that one up. And the line that it connected to previously, before being plugged . Does that line get plugged up as well ? It is kinda behind the engine , and a smaller pipe, that connects to that valve cover
Hey Anthony, thank you for the support. For the delete it is very simple. Driver side valve cover if you are capping them, you can cap the pcv valve (piece attached to plenum) and the corresponding pipe on the valve cover where the oem hose runs to. That thats 2 caps on the driver side of the car. Then for the 2 caps on the passenger side of the car its going to be again the pcv valve on the plenum and then the corresponding piping for that side. Cap those 4 up and your good to go. I have another video on here that shows the 4 lines you need to cap.
If you using plugs in the valve cover then that back line that runs behind the plenum can totally be deleted
Hey, I pulled my motor and transmission to a do a complete hose and harness change, what are all the deletes/bypasses you recommend?
EGR, AIV, carbon canister, single piece clutch line, plenum coolant line delete, install a catch can and block ports on valve covers. Reseal the entire motor and get new gaskets and bushings. New motor mounts! Besides that make the rest your own and how you would like it to look!
You can delete the IACV even for your daily?
Can you send me the link for the t hose connectors and also for the freeze plugs.
Awesome Video once again! Perhaps I missed something, but why the need for a catch can? Could you just plug the port in front of the valve cover instead of running the 5/8" hoses?
If you plug the exhaust AND also the intake ports, you’ve sealed the system and have no means to relieve crankcase pressure... won’t take long for the engine to make its own vent... ie seal rupture.
As Aaron said above, if the system is sealed and has no way for gases to escape the pressure will begin to find a way out, either valvecover seals, oil dipstick, etc
Ah Gotcha..So the catch can provides that. Thanks
Hey would this be the same for TT models? I'm trying to figure out where my "out" lines would connect to since my top intake piping doesn't have any nipple coming out to attach a hose.
Hi did you manage to sort this in also trying to find the best place for out pipes
@@connorgale5049 yes i did
@@codyneumann3261 did you plumb it straight back into the turbo pipe it was venting into in the first place?
@@codyneumann3261 could use some help if possible buddy
You got anything we can chat on about it ?
I've been having an idle problem with my 3Z. The part at the end where he talks about the hose that helps control cold starts, can that cause an idle issue after the car has been warmed up? It runs fine while cold, but after about ten mins, or until it's warm, it starts to drop RPM and almost dies, drops to the point where the engine will shake a little, then the RPMs kick back up and drops again, kicks back up again, drops again. It does this constantly while it's at normal operating temps. Both my door locks are broke and the key I have doesn't open the hatch, so I'm going out tomorrow to get stuff to break into my own car. lol So, I won't be able to check things again until then and it's supposed to rain for the next few days. Was also going to check the PCV's to see if they're stuck, I read that can cause idle problems, among lots of other things. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've been trying to figure this damn problem out for a while now, but I don't want to be throwing random parts on hoping that one of them solves it. Parts get too expensive for that.
(EDIT) I've checked the ECU for error codes a few times. Every time I check it, it comes back with Code 55 which means there were no errors. The battery has died a few times though, so, IDK if it can give an accurate readout or not. Used the ECU to check the O2 senors. Both sensors are fine. Checked all 6 spark plugs for spark, all have spark and re-gaped each one. Pulled all 6 coil packs one at a time while the car is running, everything is fine there. Checked for lose grounds, found one, but it wasn't the problem. Going to check the CAS plug when I get a chance, because when I'd move the wire harness that runs the plug wires and all that, it wants to die. If it's just a corrosion problem I haven't found yet, I'm going to drop kick this car. lol Checked TPS with a volt reader, it's fine, checked the linkage for the throttle, it's fine. MAS is fine. I don't remember everything I've checked, but I've tested quite a bit. Everything I check turns out to be ok. I'm just hoping it's something simpler than the wiring harness.
I'm sorry you're going through this, these care can be very temperamental. First and foremost I would replace every vacuume line. 9/10 times it's a vac leak somewhere. Even when telling people this they say it's not this then 2 months later it is. The IACV is a very important component when it comes to idle (Idle air control valve) this is referring to the hose in the back of the plenum. That module can get corroded and stuck over time and can also leak and cause a vaccume issue. You can take the hose off the module and spray a very small amount of WD-40 in there to help lube it up.
Also if the battery is dieing, you probably have a bad alternator this can also cause an idle issue due to the car not getting enough power. The alternator could just be old or since the power steering pump is right above it that leaks onto it and causes it to short out. Hopefully with this info you can check it out. I would also replace the coolant temp sensor that sits right on the front of the motor near the throttle cable cover. It's yellow, sometime if that can't jiggle it will through timing and idle off, that did help my idle issue before. Good luck!
I'd you delete those components like the pvc and erg and iac* off a 96, would it pass emissions with the OBD2 and all?
Unfortunately I would not know this. Here in MA there is no emissions testing in antique vehicles
You need to plug the intake tubes where you took out the extra pipes. I used 2.5" rubber caps.
👍
How does the crank area breath if you block the PCV ports? The upper valve cover does not perform this function, as pressures in the valve covers are different than the crank area, hence the requirement for a PCV system in the first place.
Sorry, but this is an inaccurate statement. Just follow the oil flow - if oil can drain down to the pan, air (pressure) is also shared between the crankcase and all 4 valve chambers.
What size rubber caps did you use to cap off the pcv valve?
They came in an assortment from what I can remember, it was the bigger ones of them all my guess is 1/2 inch.
Can i run just the PCV bypass? I don’t race or daily the car just weekends
If you do the pcv bypass you would want to run a catch can. This gives the ability for the car to collect condensation and any oil blow-bye
Are the hoses 5/8 inner diameter or outer diameter
They are just 5/8 heater hose, that you can get at any automotive store, pretty sure it's the inner diameter
Stupid me,.....do you have to bring the car to emissions every two years I believe,
If so after all this cuts and changes, does it still pass emissions?
In MA we do not have emissions for cars that are antiques
If you have an NA might aswell just replace the PCV valves if theyre stuck open, allot cheaper and faster
Soooo this might be a dumb question but I just did the pcv delete without the catch can cuz its in the mail so I turned on my z and it's sounds like dog shit is that normal since I haven't put the catch can in yet? Or did I do something wrong?
Oh and do I have to take the rear pcv hose off and cap that cuz that bitch is hard to get to lol
@@zeda9253 yes you would need to take that hose off but I would not run the car without a catch can, due do the increased pressure of the crank case ventilation.
@@ZBruhzchannel then that's probably why it sounds and runs like dog shit. I didn't take off that rear hose and my catch can gonna be in tomorrow. Just wanted to make sure cuz it was running fine b4 I took those 2 hoses off lol thanks man your a blessing
Is this the same process for a twin turbo?
I have not done one on a tt yet. I would look at twin turbo.net to see what the process is
Any ideas on the tt where too put the out?
Did you find a solution? I also have a TT and I'm doing this as part of my rebuild. I ran the out on the passenger side to the bung on the accordion pipe that usually connects to the valve cover where the in hose is running from. I had to use a plastic elbow and a short piece of hose to the bung, otherwise the hose would kink. On the driver side the bung is so close to the plenum and the in hose that there isn't really clearance for the elbow piece. I'm debating if I should just T it where the IAC hose goes into the charge pipe. I haven't seen any other opinions so I'm curious if you've solved the issue.
Wish you could upload pics in the comment
You could also tap the driverside exhaust valve cover pcv holes and bolt in npt plugs.
conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/PCV_Delete
This is what I read, and heard about catch can filters. The two difference, between a filter vs no filter. If you have an NA car then don't use the filter. If your car is turbo charged. then use the filter. My Z is turbo charged, and I still haven't deleted. The EGR which I'm going to do soon! I just did a electric fan conversion, and needs a bit more tweak's. Before I can move on, and start deleting. You could find me on Instagram, at diazkelvin24. I wish we could chill one day. You're from MA, and I'm from NYC. We're not to far from each other Z-bro 🙂. Btw Nice job on all your work and videos!! 🙌
I think the filter (or vent to atmosphere) is needed if the intake valve portion of the PCV system is deleted - the pressure has to go somewhere. If you’re still plumbed to the inlet pipes (turbo or na) like our buddy has done here, no need for an additional filter since you’re still technically venting to atmosphere via the intake filters.
Breather filter, this allows the crank case pressurized air to escape the can.
Z32 Nissan it doesn’t hurt to have a filter, but there’s already an escape route through the hose that runs to the throttle body (or turbo) inlet pipe.
@@woodnutz78 Aaron W Very true it won't hurt, especially if your "catch can" has a built-in baffle. Oil won't reach the breather filter. Breather filter, help escape blow-by as well. My catch can has three ports. Two inlet for the crack case, one outlet. Which needs to be "T" for my intercooling pipes.
whats the benefit of having an oil catch can on an na car?
Helps just simplify the crankcase ventilation system and with blow by issues
How often do you find you have to empty the catch can?
About once every 3 days ish just to be safe
@@ZBruhzchannel Oh wow, and you have enough accumulation in there each time? Thanks for the prompt response bro.
@@taipane-biensur7607 yea more moisture and evap more then oil
Ah - Pondering whether to go with a larger tank. This helps. Thanks again.
@@taipane-biensur7607 if you can afford it then do it!!
delete that pos ptu and run ls or audi r9 coils way better hides under plenum and allows super wire delete. from ecu to ptu is like 10 feet of wire you can delete then just run signal from ecu little wires vs that huge length that stock loom
That's the plan, but for right now it is my daily driver and I don't have the time to do the tuck that I ultimately want to do. But the route you explained will be coming in the future!
First