5-Axis Fixture Creation for a Steel Motorcycle Part
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Really interested in seeing the next stages of the process for this part.
i 2nd that
Me as well. I've been practicing setups similar to this on my 3 axis machine. I'm doing one setup for each direction so I can run all the operations at once. having a 4th axis would surely help and 5axis would be amazing.
Ok: Maybe I’m just missing something here...
1) I totally agree on making this from 1 piece of stock
2) Why exactly could we not just hold this in a little 4” vise on a riser?
It could be stood up proud of the vise with only a sacrificial slug on the end that attaches to the triple tree with some talon grips. You could do everything ( including the slitting) except for the tapped triple tree hole in that 1st op. Aside from the slitting (no real pressure), and the profile (no pressure with a dynamic cycle) most of the cutting pressure (drilling) is going straight into the vise, so sitting high is sort of a moot point. Then lay it on its side with the slug hanging off of the vise, finish the bore (and the cap being clamped 90° from the split is going to stay in place) then tip the table, face the slug off and do the triple tree hole.
I love making nice fixtures as much as anybody. But this seems more like an exercise in academia than just getting a 1 off part out right and quick. No offense intended with this post.
Yes, that's it exactly. He runs an online school to teach machining, and he has a part here that he can use as a lesson plan. So he did. It's not about the part, it's about the experience of the setup, planning, and then remembering to slow down at the end just enough to avoid flinging the finished part against the enclosure walls. And bonus, if you have a motorcycle the part might fit on it.
you're right that a vise would work, but vises are slow to fixture, take up lots of space, and it's difficult to repeat high precision processes in a vise so quickly. Think about how much time it would take to fixture one piece of stock in a vise, compared to simply sliding the stock up against those stops he drew and screwing down the pitbulls. With that big machine behind them you could make 10 of those fixtures and machine 20 parts in one setup in very repeatable way. So the effort of designing this kind of fixture will end up saving time and money and get you more consistent parts.
I'd suggest clamping the top part as well. You don't need to play with speeds, it will be faster and secure.
What's up Jacob!!! This is a great video. I love how Titan took us through the thought process of creating fixturing. Hitting all of the details and minimizing operations. The next level to this from a production stand point is creating multiple fixture plates and utilizing a second riser to pop on and off to increase spindle up time. Bravo nice job!
I wanna see the saw! 😁
Yeah, what a tease. hoping for a follow up video
wow great explanation on fixture design! looking forward in seeing it being made.
Fixture design!. Work holding 3-2-1 locating principle. This is real engineering stuff. Boom!.
Really hope to see the setup and cutting...please
Yes please.
This made it really easy to follow along with your thought process and not just the technical details. More of these, please. It's great mentor-ship and we are all benefiting from you sharing the session. Thank you! - Tom Z
This is a good lesson in fixturing and I like it. This video is really intended for education. A fixture like that for a low priced part would be worth more than the part you are making. A dove tail hold for half the part, and flat face jaws for the other side would be adequate for tens of parts but this fixture would be for hundreds.
At the end I would say him "do what now again?" 😆
Good job...
Waiting for the saw cut....
As an exercise in fixture design I would probably shift the stock up (over the edge) and fully finish the clamp and part it in the first op - then you can use the bore as a locating feature for the second op... even use a single expanding id clamp for two op 2 parts. But this would be a lot easier to make if it was held vertically with a dovetail or in a small vise.
Some next level fixturing nice job
Awesome idea, too bad there are no videos on how it looked at the end...
That is one super handsome riser-block .
Amazing explaining all details to make that parts done.I love your tutorial videos❤️
This seems live a very over complex way of doing it? Would you not just put it in a vice and either do one side, or do 5 sides, then flip it into a fixture plate and use the threads of the part to clamp it down to either finish the last side if you did 5 sides first or do the last 5 sides if you did only 1 side first?
Stay tuned for the machining of the fixture and parts. The point here is just to show a easy system that allows 2 complete parts to come out every time the machine stops. Of course there are a million ways to do it...
Agree with others would like to see the process all the way through.
Absolutely... it’s a little series. Stay tuned.
Great job with the explanation!
Clever guy, Mr Titan
Nice demonstrate ! Expect next episode.
Now i whant to see the action!👍
Learning from a master. One with the mill. Ohmmmmmm.
I'd be curious what the process is for cleaning up the saw cut. I don't mess much with arbor saws but I know saws in general can leave a burr.
If someone is totally against hand-work, and wanted to 100% go in and chamfer deburr the part with CNC, then I assume there would be no choice but to set these back up later for a cleanup stage.
But, since we are practical people, I bet if it's a clean enough saw cut that throwing the parts into a vibratory or doing a quick hit with a manual hole debur tool and file will clean up any burr left. It is extra work by hand, but honestly if they end up either getting media blasted or hand polished, that's also likely hand-work for a lot of cases; so the tiny amount of handwork to finish off the burrs will not be significant step in the finishing process. But looking forward to see how that is handled in the videos...
Very nice
thanks for this video 😍, any tips how to get buyers?
there you have it guys I know that it took me for ever i was like 8 hours of approximate design basing on the video and manifacturing of both ops ( in the first op you hold the part in the vice with 0.200" depth so you are 0.090" clear from the face above the radius so when you are profiling you drop 0.040" below the face so you won't mark the face in op2 everything else you do it normally you tilt the table to drill the part at the left side and then you takeoff the part flip it along the x axisand you fix it in the right side to have access to the ritght side holes and you make a clearance slot in the jaws for the cutting of with the slitting saw this way you'll have both parts fixed 'no compromises' but you need to use a raiser to have clearence from the table but you can put a vise on the far right and another one on the far left and you can use double station vices to boost productivity but you need to modify the code a little bit in the sawing operation the simulation shows it okay but you the spindle will go up and than down and than retract because of the way I programmed it ) wow I learned a lot of stuff 3+2 programing was the major thing this is the first thing I programmed after titan 1&2m so I am proud of my self at this point so what you think guys and especially you titan what you think ?
How are you accounting for the saw kerf? Extending it in the CAD file? Or I guess a perfect circle isn't necessary since it'll be clamping handlebars.
Generally you'd account for what you want your final dimension to be; usually with these clamps there is some gap left so that when clamping there is some room for stretch; which means that you can probably just let the kerf be what it is and that amount of gap is just left in the part. But absolutely if you want a tighter fit then you can model your part with an extra bit of length left in for the kerf, so the circle gets stretched with some straight section where the saw will do its work. Just means you'd want to machine that ID as a profile versus a plain hole drill/bore method but that's not a big deal really.
For a small run. 5-axis vice + DMU50, no fixture.
Only one OP, Boom !
The little extra stock to hold the part in the vises pays itself twice when you don't have to design, program and machine a fixture. You also save on fixture stock and storage.
will we get to see the fixture?
Yes
Boom!
@@TITANSofCNC Please publish the final part, I really want to see this fixture, it will be a great video. I literally have checked for this series every week hoping to see the end...
i only miss how you gonna hold the 2nd part i mean top part for bottom uniforce but for top ?
Top will drop off with saw cut. Another video to follow
Been a year and a half now ever plan on releasing the follow up video?
Amazing
Wont the ends of the threads need to be deburrd/counter sunk after the saw cuts the part in half?
If so, surely you would then loose all the time saved.
No, you go a hair deeper with the larger drill doing the through bore. Will show in upcoming video.
When making the counterbore clearance hole, he will surely drill a little deeper making a chamfer for his thread with the drill.
@@empireages241 yeah i see that now, although i still wouldve thought that the saw would make a burr. I guess chucking them in a rumbler would sort it out
Cut the last op so the cap falls down if you have the tooling for it.
can we please get the drawings for that part so that we will design our own fixtures and see who has the best one it's going to be an international internet challenge and we can do that more often with you giving us a challenge and you telling who is the winner
Absolutely... they are Free to download on our Free Academy.titansofcnc.com
Please make k G7 gun part
this is a really rough and messed up demontration on another way that you can fixture this part using only soft jaws, I tried to do perfect cam operations considering the tools and spidle curve of your haas 750ss (which you will probably use) but since I don't have the exact cad model thought that would be useless what I am suggesting is that you hold the part in a vise gripping only 0.25" deep (considering that the radius on the edge is 0.25" and you will use a stock that is larger by 0.040" on each side which will leave you wiith a clearence of under the begining of the radius and you are going to coutour it 0.020" deper than the straight face on the side that way when you flip it around the x axis you are only going to do the corner radius and the pocket and for the slitting saw you can make a small relief in the soft jaws this is a link for the cad model it is messed basically fliped the part over but I hope you would get it i will finish the cam maybe tomorrow don't know what time it is right now but it's 3:30 AM in algeria as I am writing this please when I share the final file tell me your opinion about the cam, speeds and feeds, and what would you do.
the two circles drawn are a 2s representation of the slitting saw and the shaft
this is the link : a360.co/3gbE2WY