Revolutionizing Power Conversion: Limitless Power DC to DC Boost Converter Concept⚡️
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- Опубликовано: 14 сен 2023
- Welcome to our channel! In today's video, we are about to unveil a groundbreaking innovation in the world of power electronics: the Limitless Power DC to DC Boost Converter Concept. Imagine having the ability to combine the power of multiple 1800W commercial converters and achieve limitless power with a single synchronous control loop. Yes, it's possible, and we're here to explain how.
In a world where our hunger for electrical power continues to grow, conventional power conversion methods have their limitations. This has led us to develop a groundbreaking concept that has the potential to change the game entirely. From data centers and electric vehicles to renewable energy systems, the demand for high-power applications is ever-increasing. The current state-of-the-art converters struggle to meet these demands efficiently. Traditional converters often face challenges such as low efficiency, bulkiness, and difficulty in scaling up power. This has prompted us to think outside the box.
The synchronous control loop is the heart of our concept. It dynamically adjusts the converter's operation to efficiently combine the power of multiple 1800W commercial converters while maintaining optimal performance. By synchronizing the operation of multiple 1800W converters, our concept achieves a seamless power combination that allows us to harness their collective power without any efficiency losses.
The result? A DC to DC boost converter concept capable of delivering limitless power for your most demanding applications. Say goodbye to power limitations!
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Наука
Usually I don't comment on videos but I just have to say that I love this video!
Great work!!❤❤
I have literally seen this video multiple time now!
I love the intro and all the sound tracks!
Again great work!!
Wow!
Thanks a lot for such ans inspirational feedback.
👍❤️
I am so glad that you loved the video.
Thanks a lot for all the support! We definitely appreciate it.
👍👍👍
The Innovati0n Lab.
Looking good so far! This is such a cool project, love it!
Keep it up 👍
🤙
Thanks a lot!
Yes, it is.
👍👍
There will be more tests and modifications to make it better.
Stay tuned, friend.
👍😎
The innovati0n lab.
👍I tried same thing before but I added one more mosfet on the same module to increase the power and that worked but I think isolated push pull would have more power and higher efficiency
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback!!
Honesty, the push-push topology is always my favorite for converters and inverters!
👍👍
However, we will not be able to implement an isolated push-pull because the TL494 controll board that we are using is not configured to produce the dual complemented outputs (Q/Q') needed for a push-pull. You have a single output that enebled to drive to greater than 90% duty cycle.
I plan to build a push-pull converter in the future using SG3525.
Stay tuned, my friend.
Thanks again.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Except tutorial! Cheers from Australia 👍 subbed and liked 👍
Thanks a lot!
I greatly appreciate your wonderful feedback.
❤️
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Very Entrusting... I like your videos Lot of thing i learned from your videos
Thanks a lot!
I greatly appreciate the wonderful and inspiring feedback.
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Yep, exactly what I did, I just mounted it all to an aluminum plate so the distance is closer and the footprint is smaller. Recreate the driver circuit onto a custom PCB and you will have it sorted.
Wonderful!
Like minds think alike.
I am actually developing my own boost converter PCB - using the same TL494 PWM chip. Lots of design calculations to account for error correction on the feedback loop, inductor design....etc.
Stay tuned, my friend!
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Great! Can't wait to see it! ⚡🧡
Hi do you have the schematic for this board, i want to identify the voltage and current feedback I'm working on a similar project but a voltage of 250vdc to 600vdc
Very good i cant wait to see a new video about this converter
Thanks for the wonderful feedback.👍👍👍
Thank you for such awesome research and development
This was a VERY impressive video and I can appreciate all the work that must have gone into it. I am looking forward to your application of the series-connected converters.
I have four of these 750W server supplies and know how important ground-isolation is here/ On one of mine (in a three-inverter series connection) I overlooked a small grounded lock-washer causing a high-current short. I should have tested the units with an ohm meter before powering up the string...it would have saved one.
BTW: It looks like you may have put some heatshink onto your adjustment screwdriver (good move!).. In an application like this, it can be risky and annoying to adjust the pots while watching meters. I made a simple tool that eliminated this inconvenience...
=========================================
I got one of those small screwdrivers from a screwdriver kit and cut a small length of ~1/8" thin-walled brass tubing (that just fits over a trimmer pot screw) long enough to press-fit over the black end of the screwdriver. I cut the tubing to a length that was slightly longer than the end of the screwdriver so that it's blade is sunken a bit into the tubing . This fits around the pot screw, just turn it until you feel the blade fit down onto the adjustment screw...then you can turn the pot without worry of the screwdriver slipping! On some of them, you can completely let go of the tool and it stays on the pot!!
I have NEVER adjusted a trimmer pot any other way since!!...I will add insulating heatshrink!
==========================================
PS:
I re-watched the video and noticed in the replay of the failure from the previous video, that you can see the power input wires repelling each other from the huge (surge?) current in the wires...maybe some kind of 'softstart' will help???
...you're ready for a GREAT "induction heater" vide0.....hint...
Thanks a lot for the great feedback, as always!
We appreciate it.
What I have done in the past with the trim pots was to actually replace them with bigger pots with actual knobbs... and it worked perfectly. With this method, you need to carefully solder extending wires to the board.
The only setback I had was the difficulty in finding the pot values needed.
👍👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Thank you for your response.... I have ordered a new mosfet as well as new nichicon caps.... We'll see how it goes
Thanks !!
You are welcome!
We appreciate your wonderful feedback.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
I just made designed a parallel board for this booster so you can have 1 in voltage control 1 out voltage control and 1 amp control. got to parallel the ins/outs and the trims.
Thanks a lot for the great feedback.
I am glad you found the video helpful.
Success wishes.
-The Innovati0n Lab
@@anwin85alon I am not suer what you mean sorry
I have one of these 1500 watt boost converters... It recently failed after being in service for about a year.... It was being used to charge my 72v golf cart and using a 36v golf cart charger as a power supply... It pops the center fuse.... I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair... Not sure what failed in it but I love tinkering with stuff like this and wonder if you have an idea where I should start looking.... Seems like you have reverse engendered the circuits and have a pretty good understanding on how it all works... I'd love to hear back from you and would love to see more videos on these converters.... Once more I would love to see a video on how you built this here contraption from start to finish.... Good stuff keep them coming.. 😁
Thanks for the great feedback.👍👍👍
For the record, I was not trying to reverse engineer the board - way easier for me to just design my own..hahaha. I was merely tapping the gate drive PWM from the converter board and using it to control my 'contraption' - as you nicely put it..😄
However, regarding repairs, my experience is that the drive MOSFET in the center of the unit (under the power inductor) is usually the component that gets damaged. I would recommend ordering the MOSFET on eBay or wherever you can find it online, replace it, and see if that fixes it.
PART NUMBERS:
Check the one on your unit, but these ones below work as well.
💥HY3912 or
💥 IRFP4110
What I usually do after the MOSFET replacement is to connect the input power through a power resistor (anything less the 10 ohms should work) and if the output voltage comes up and is boosted to the level you had it before....then you know the failure was limited to just the MOSFETs and the popped fuse(s).
Please do this with no load at the output.
The reason for using the resitor at the input is to prevent the damage of your new MOSFT - just in case the fault is with control/PWM circuit.
If the MOSFET replacement doesn't work, I would just order another converter unit... given how cheap they are.
I hope this helps.
👍😎
- The Innovati0n Lab 💥
We are really trying to grow this channel to get more like-minded people like you in here. Please, you can help by sharing our videos.
Thanks again!
👍😎
- The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Hello my wonderful friend. Excellent video. What would happen if you put a big capacitor then diode on the outputs to isolate the control feedback. Would you be able to put the two SMPS together in parallel that way.
Hello to you as well, my wonderful friend!
👍👍
This is exactly the type of thinking I appreciate from our audience!
This got me thinking 🤔 but then I remember trying something like this during the paralleled boost converter video project, but it still didn't solve the power sharing problem. Maybe a much larger capacitor bank could make a difference, but I am not very sure.
However, as I was explaining in the video, the best way to really solve the power sharing problem is to use a synchronous control loop.
If not, it's usually like having two captains in one ship....literally 😊
Thanks again, friend, and I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Very cool. I just wanted to suggest that maybe you can build a voltage doubling circuit. After the 1200 watt dc-dc failed for 12v -> 36v for my ebike, I built a voltage tripler so 12v to 36v.
It worked, but the current was very large coming out of the 12v and melted the solder joints on the capacitors...maybe you can do it better. It is very simple compared to the dc-dc boost using a coil (although that isn't complicated really, but the coils are big and heavy)
Wonderful feedback.👍👍👍
I have done a voltage doubler a while ago for a low power audio amplifier project. I don't think it's a good idea for high power dc to dc boost converter where we are talking about 1000W and above.
Your solder joints were melting because the efficiency of your doubler system might have been really low as to be expected. This means that it was drawing a lot of input power to compensate for the losses in the system.
Regardless, thanks a lot for your suggestion. I conduct some more research on the subject to know if it will be worth it.
Thanks again.
Respectfully,
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
I'd be interested to see a wide input (12vdc-63vdc) buck converter with only three output rails, all at 4.5a: 12v, 5v, 3.3v
It would also be nice to be able to increase the output amps up to multiples of 4.5a, to 9a, 13.5a, and 18a at least.
It would also be interesting to see how small such a device could be made thet still works safely. It could probably be made smaller than a typical Pico PSU.
Wonderful!!👍👍👍
I will be working on some constant current buck converters in the near future. I can't make any high power density design promises for now..hahaha.
But this is a very reasonable suggestion.
Thanks!
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Hi. This is an amazing video. And on a topic that concerned me. I am now planning to have 2 solar chargers working in parallel with same battery (the solar panels are way to different to have them all on same charger). And I had this concern that it may somehow work bad, and your video suggests that this is what may really happen. :( I thought that the charge current limit should resolve the issue for each charger, but it seems it may not. Thank you. (And more that that I bought 2 1200W boost converters very similar to the ones you have. So I could transfer extra power from 12V battery to 48V battery, and I planned on using them in parallel as well to reduce current through relays which control the power flow (also planned to use 2 relays)). Now I have to figure out a single boost single relay config :) )
Hi friend,
Thanks for the very detailed feedback. I am not sure if you have watched my paralleled converter video...that will be the video before this one. See the link below.
👇👇
ruclips.net/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/видео.htmlsi=DEBcQ0fIppDPZaTY
In that video, I showed that paralleling is not reliable, but It works at lighter loads. You will need to spend some time to tune the outputs of the two converters to make sure that they are load sharing as you need them to.
Also, another advantage you may have is the fact that your input power sources are coming from two different solar panels.
I will suggest that you go ahead and try your original paralleling plan.
Again, my concern was not that it was an absolute fail. It was that the paralleling concept didn't work reliable at high loads. I have a lot of subscribers whose power needs are about 60 to a hundred Amps .....so you see why I can't recommend it. However, you keep you charging current demand low (about 5 to 10A), with good tuning, I think it might work.
You use the diode 'OR' method, or you use low value power resistors (
could you tell me more about the gate driver for the MOSFET how does it works here and why you use it?
Great question.
👍👍👍
I use TC4420. It's a non-inverting MOSFET DRIVER. Basically, it provides latch-up protection, low output impedance, fast switching, and PWM amplitude amplification.
Essentially you use it to condition the gate drive signal going to your MOSFET. For example, your original drive pulses for your PWM device or Arduino could be about
We need your help to grow our channel. You can help by sharing our videos on social media or to other diy hobbyists that you may have in your network!
Thanks!
👍👍👍
- The Innovati0n Lab 💥
спасибо большинство вопросов отпало, все по делу, большое спасибо за схему подключения транзисторов я в восторге
Wonderful!
I am glad to hear that.👍👍👍
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
А зачем к 494 промежуточный мосфет драйвер? В блоках питания десятилетиями их не применяли и все работало.
@@user-ju2yl6bz9y скорее всего это излишне перестраховались а может китайская тлка не тянула или транзисторы b и d не справлялись мелкие
Amazing work❤🎉. Can I make such a things because I really need one but if possible to have more voltage like reach 200volts
Thanks so the info
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback.
I like your adventurous way of thinking.😊
Honestly, the most I have done is 3 in series. However, this will be a good experiment to conduct.....but it will be an expensive one.
My biggest concern for doing something like this would be safety and also considering the fact that given the number of converters to be connected in series, the system might become unstable at heavy loads.
That is with the assumption that it would work.
Anyways, we can't approach the would of innovation with fear - we just have to be safe by conducting lots of research to explore the risks of doing something like this.
I hope the helps.
Thanks again.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Have you tried converting 110v DC from the step up converter to 220v 50hz AC?
It sounds like you are talking about a high voltage inverter design. I have done something similar in the past DIY project.
Hi champ have you put up the circuit diagram or actual build list for this ,as i want to also modify one of these for an 84 volt high current charger ideally 0 to 50 amp amp but what ever i get ill be happy
I have not been able to do so yet. Extremely busy.
But stay tuned, I have something better that I am still working on.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
How about an boost converter that function as crude active pfc? Boosting from 90-240v to 380v or 400v, without large input capacitor, it wiol draw current from most part of yhe sine wave...
Thanks a lot for such great feedback. Much appreciated.👍👍👍
However, we really try to keep our projects super simple - for now. Active power factor correction is mostly used to manage reactive power, and a converter that could provide this capability will require lots of time and resources that we currently do not have.😊
For now, I barely even have the time to complete one small project in a month..hahaha
But stay tuned. I have added this topic to my bucket list of future project ideas. A way to help our channel would be to share our videos with people of like minds. As the channel grows, we will be inspired to take on much bigger DIY projects.
Thanks again!
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
I am using this dc-dc without modifications (except additional fan over coil, also I replaced on one of them (I have several) a burned mosfet to hy4008 but do not remember on which one) to charge 7s battery pack at 20A and around up to 29v output and respective input current around more than 50a (using the very same server power supply as you do). So I was hoping that you will push harder the power levels achieved in the video, as I would love to charge my pack with more current (30A or even more)? Maybe it would be good to repeat the experiment but with some higher currents? As those powers in video seems to be achievable even with default device.
I hear you.
You are absolutely right. It has been on my list to get back on track to conduct more tests of this converter.
The goal of the first video is simply to present the concept.
More to follow, my friend!
Stay tuned.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
*Great work as always. I think i have watched almost every video you made about these converters. I sent you an email. I would like your advice on a project*
Sounds great!
Thanks a lot for all your support. We greatly appreciate it.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥.
Good video but you should show input values together with output values in the same picture so people can see how increasing the output load affects the input,i sure would like to see it.
That is definitely an excellent suggestion. However, I purposely left it out because I didn't want this initial test to be about the efficiency of the test board.
This will be covered in our new power PCB design.
Stay tuned, my friend.
See the short video below;
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/user/shorts7oHaZASPk4c?si=SpOr0SyLf21UNZq7
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
Is there a way to trick the converters to put something si ple downstream to balance ? Its too bad coz id be nice to reach 5000w without a massive redesign ( im not good in electronics lol)
I hear you!
Stay tuned. We are working on a new converter design.
Coming Soon.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
I got a cheap switch server 24v 15a,(amazon) you can adjust it 18v to 30v so plenty of power for lifepo4 12v × 2 and 18v powertools
Hi friend,
Thanks for the interaction.
It seems that you found a great power supply!👍
However, please be careful not to use power supplies to directly charge your batteries unless you have a way of adjusting your charging current to meet your batteries charing current requirements.
In all my charger videos, I have always stressed heavily on adjusting charging currents. This is why I always recommend using the 'constant current' converters (boost or buck) between your power supplies and the batteries.
Lithium phosphate or Lithium-Ion batteries are high-energy devices, and you should try not to over stress them.
I hope this helps.
Success wishes on your projects.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
а почему вы не использовали экранированные провода для уменьшения помех, я вообще сделал пирог из плат на основе вашего видео соединив китайскую плату с монтажкой при помощи перемычек чтоб уменьшить длину соединительных линий управления и вроде все стабильно работает!!! я очень рад
Great suggestion.
I was actually looking for one during the testing of this very project, and it was going to take too long to receive my order.
However, looking at the control PWM signal on the scope, it looked clean enough not to cause too much power wasting due to erroneous MOSFET turn ONs.
But great point, though.
👍👍👍
Respectfully,
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Sir, I need 24 volt DC to DC converter 2000 watts. Can you make a video on this?
Great idea!
👍👍👍
This converter should be in the range of what you are looking for. Stay tuned for the follow-on video.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Concerning statement at about timestamp 21:55 ...shouldn't power increase as the SQUARE of the input voltage?? I think it is not a linear increase...in case you are only watching for a certain voltage for a power calculation,
Again...GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Hi friend!
Another great feedback!
I appreciate it!
👍👍👍👍
You are right about the power dissipation on a resistive load being proportional to the square of the voltage across it (IAW Ohm's Law)....I believe that was implied in my commentary 😊.
However, this is largely linear as long as the power dissipation rating of the resistive load is not exceeded....and the heat released is properly dissipated (this was why I used a water heater). This was also why I had a voltage target of 48 to 50V). Without proper heat dissipation, resistors naturally exhibit a positive temperature coefficients per their rated TRC (ppm/Deg C) - which means that the hotter they get, the higher the resistance......hence less power dissipation....hence the non-linear behavior.
Let me know if you agree.
Great discussion.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
I thought the heater would show a very low resistance when cold and rise considerably as the element heated. But TO MY SURPRISE..this did not happen as it does in, say, an incandescent lamp.! The resistance seemed to stay constant (in agreement with ohm's law...hot or cold).
Here is a video concerning the same manufacturer (and same problem) that I got my 600W heater...it's still a bit confusing.
ruclips.net/video/bKL0nplOHCE/видео.html
@@theinnovati0nlab782
So I just blew up another 1500W booster I had set up to add some 56v batteries to my 72v eBike for more capacity. Sounded and smelled like it was likely capacitors blowing, need to dig the board out to be sure.
This seems to happen often when trying to use boost converters with a higher voltage/ high power load like this connected to a motor controller. I’m wondering if there are ways of making the unit more robust to failures like this. I had planned on adding double capacitor banks in parallel with the input and output capacitors but left them out last minute because space in the case was limited. Aaand it blew up on the first ride when I went full throttle on a steep hill.
Can you think of anything that might help? Or should I give up trying to use boost converters for this purpose?
Thanks 🤙
Hi friend,
Sorry to hear about the
The failure. It sounds like your converter failed due to a momentary high power surge/demand from the bike system.
Hmmm,🤔🤔...this is a tricky one to handle. I would suggest to try adding a supercap bank, but finding a reliable 72V supercap bank big enough to help you ride out the surege will be very expensive.
Well, this is why we are working on the Limitless power concept.
Stay tuned, friend.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 After inspecting the failed converter it was actually the large transistor in the middle that failed. There is one input capacitor the bulged and may have leaked a bit as well but that seems like a secondary failure.
Is the large transistor (mosfet?) a common component to fail in your experience? Have you heard of any components that may be more robust that could be swapped in?
I’m still thinking it might help to mitigate this type of failure if I were to connect more capacitors in parallel with the input and output next time.
Definitely interested to learn more about the design and build process for your Big Bad Booster (feel free to use that name 😂 ) you’ve created, I would definitely have use for one myself!
I tried the same and although it did not burn my 1800w converter - I found it was a bit sluggish. Perhaps I did not open the entire amps (turn the control dial until it clicked). My goal was 48v to 60v - hence I just built a 2s 40a little 8.4v 18650 2.5 ah battery pack. So took it out for a quick ride but will be testing more thoroughly soon.
why don't you just set the CC on each board to limit the output current (and with this, the input current as well) to a safe level, then parallel them ? What am I missing here?
What you are recommending only works for low power applications. It doesn't work well with intantaneous heavy loads. If you only need less than 500 watts, then there will be no need for paralleling your converters. We have people who are looking for ways to charge their battery systems with greater than 100A....that's where this is all coming from.
Maybe this is what you are missing. People are not looking for 50W converters. They are looking for cheap and affordable 10,000W converter alternatives.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, though.
We appreciate it.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 hi, so you mean to say that a board limited to 20A output would run without any current limits for a brief moment when turned on, causing the components to burn? Or the massive inrush current spike would blow the fuses?
Can you triple and more the components to get even more?
I like the way you think.
😊👍👍.
We will be doing something similar to that, but a little bit differently. Connecting inductors in parallel results in a lowered net inductance, and you have to consider the impact of that on the overall efficiency of the system and output ripple.
Thanks again!
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Will I understand that for is those compositors was very for over volt
The capacitors are for output power filtering.
Remember those big high frequency capacitor it’s stopping the current from capacitor up fast enough for good output current making efficiency 88% use only high frequency capacitor for any switching voltage supply because if the capacitor is low frequency high resistance the current ripple can’t get filter out for maximum current output the current and voltage will drop
I see your point. The filter caps definitely do play a role with the peak-to-peak output ripple levels.
However, when it comes to the low efficiencies, there are definitely a slew of other factors to consider.
1. Inductor saturation current...
2. Inductor design with respect to skin effect and converter switching frequency....
3. Rectifier diode losses...
4. Control circuit quiescent power consumption....
5. Converter cooling...
6. Drive MOSFET power dissipation as a result of RDS(ON)...
7. Possible cable losses on the test setup.....
Plus, many more.
I am not saying that you are wrong about the output ripple playing a small part, but there are lots of other things to consider as well.
Thanks for the great feedback. I appreciate the interaction.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Can you design a circuit for dc to dc pwm motor controller. Input dc volts 120 output dc volts 0 to 120 variable. Output current maximum 100 amperes.
It is feasible to do, but it will require lots of development time and cost - for those who have the time and resources. There is a reason why we only focus on simple projects for now.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.
Hi.
Plz I need boost converter , but 12v to 150v input.
It's possible???
ruclips.net/video/D-ScEn57eHc/видео.htmlsi=uAjfWD_0WCubB3aP
But again, can I connect those converters in series to give me total of maximum power they all produce
I hear you 👍👍
But as I mentioned in my previous response, safety and output regulation would be my primary concern.
Also, keep in mind that 200V DC can be very deadly...I am not trying to scare you. As long as you plan to proceed with lots of caution. ⚠️
You need to invest in some HIGH VOLTAGE rated PPE and test equipment. I would highly recommend taking some training on how to handle high voltage DC. You can find some free tutorials online...maybe on RUclips .
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
@@theinnovati0nlab782 I have a DC induction cooktop stove which is faulty, while trying to fix it, I realized a pcb that used 12v input and produce around 160v as output yet producing higher voltage of about 236v. The induction cooker is given error message, which according to my search it’s due to higher voltage. I was looking for a module that will give me a regulated voltage of 160 to 200volts. I appreciate any other suggestions, please. I thank you also for the good jobs you’re doing.
Greetings from Nigeria.
@yusifsuleiman5502
That sounds like an exciting repair effort. Please, what is the power requirement? How many watts does the system require? Or you can also go by the required drive current. Only the voltage specs will not be enough to make recommendations.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 Its around 500 to 700watts maximum power induction stove
How do generated power supply for control card
It seems you are asking how we are generating power for the control card?
We are basically tapping the input power, and the voltage regulators on the control card steps it down.
Tebrikler.! Pcb Dosyaları paylaşır mısın?
Thanks a lot for the great feedback.
However, the PCB I showed in the video hasn't actually been developed yet. I just added it as an illustration. As you saw in the video, actual design is still on a bread board.
But I will be glad to do so in the future.
Stay tuned, friend.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
I could never use a pulse waveform on RF devices. or they would put off a bad humming noise without proper filtering with inductors and caps to regulate/smooth the DC waveform. What what is going on here it doesn't matter.
Wonderful.👍
Yes, noise sensitive loads like RF and medical grade equipment call for more filtering. You can not buy a converter made for less ripple sensitive loads and plan to use it for high-frequency RF applications. I mean you can... but you have to implement additional filtering....this should be obvious to any experienced electronics designer.
The goal of the design in this video is just to show a proof of concept that is still being developed.
As a common observation with most of your feedback, try to be more optimistic. Pessimism can be exhausting and honestly dulls the mind.
👍👍👍
Thanks again for sharing your opinion.
Let me know if you have a question.
Create a PCB circuit file project, teacher. Write the pcb layout drawing. I will follow.
No worries.
Stay tuned, my friend!
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
don't need that at all, just connect the resistir/heater directly to the batteries; use OHM's law first
Thanks for the feedback.
What can we do without Ohms law, right?😊
The truth is that when you are talking about switch-mode power supplies, there are a lot more design factors to consider. It's hard to explain over text without writing a 200-page thesis.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab💥
How can this be used on an EBIKE? EBIKE is 72 v 2000 watts
Great question!👍
The idea is to use it to boost your lower input voltage power source to a level that you need for your application. So long as to falls with the the input to output ranges that the converters are designed for.
The only thing to keep in mind is that you don't want your input voltage to be too low. Personally, I tend to discourage people from using 12V...it is simply too low, and it leads to a lot of power losses. At least for 72V system, I would recommend using a 36V or 48V battery pack.
Honestly, the best thing to do for such projects is to design a 72V, 2000W battery pack - if you can afford it. Now, you can use this converter as a cheap charger for the high voltage battery.
I hope this helps.
Respectfully,
The innovati0n lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
@@theinnovati0nlab782
Wow!! Thanks a lot. It will help coz I already have 72 volt battery and want to maintain the battery power at all times for my motorcycle. I have an on board that produces up to 249v DC without load but with load drops to 124v DC. Do you any comments on this and how much would you sell your boot converter if you ware to sell?
I have a 2000 watt controller and if this works I will upgrade to 4000 watts which I already have standby. Your thoughts please. Thanks.
Schematics?
I didn't make a schematic for this project yet. I will make one in the future.
You can download it from the website. But if you watch the video from beginning to end, I explained everything I did in great detail.
The problem I have is that some people (maybe not you) skip through the videos and ask for schemtics - even though I gave lots of detailed explanations that is even better for anyone to follow.
The Innovati0n Lab💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
Thanks for the clarification I did watch the whole video and i understood the controller built with Tl494 how to control it's frequency and Dt also how it works good video. Still if you happen to post our some schematics will be looking forward to it. ❤️ @@theinnovati0nlab782
👍👍👍👍❤❤❤️❤️
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback!
We appreciate it.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
Hello sir can I have that 5000w boost converter
Hi friend,
No worries, I am working on something that should be better than this one.
Share the holder 3D model file plz
The PCB files I showed was just an illustration for the video. I have not fully developed it yet.
Stay tuned.
👍
The Innovati0n Lab.
12v 400A much current😮😮😮😮
Hahaha!
Thanks for the amazing feedback. You are right low voltage high current is never a good idea for a high power converter.
The limitless power concept is all about having a system where multiple converter boards can be sychronously connected in parallel - that way the power going to the load will be distributed across all the converter boards.
Thanks again for the feedback.
👍😎
-The Innovati0n Lab.
Digram and Gerber file please
Thanks for watching this video. I don't have the schematic or Garber files yet. However, I explained the concept in fresh details in the video.
Also, I don't share the files of a concept that I am still trying to develop. For now, the best I can do is to share the concept and testing in my videos.
Thanks again.
👍👍
The Innovati0n Lab
Misleading. I dont see 5000w anywhere.
I see your point.
5000W is the design goal that we are still working towards on this design.
I decided to wait until I completed the PCB design to release a follow-on video.
See the short video below;
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/user/shorts7oHaZASPk4c?si=R7GPH2SCOSGh0dWc
I hope this makes sense.
- The Innovati0n Lab💥
Boot 12-100vdc to 12-400vdc
Great idea.
Honestly, it's not too complicated to implement. But it takes a long time and lots of resources to design and test such a product.
Stay tuned, my friend!
👍👍👍
The Innovati0n Lab💥
Send diagram sir plz
Sounds good.
👍👍
Sir diagram send me plz
And transistor fet etc name send mee
Not as beautiful as imagined... 5000 Watts but in reality it can only be 500 watts
Okay.
But what is the point behind your comment?
I don't see what's "revolutionizing" is here... yet... don't waste a talent bro :)
PWM and feedback wired back to original board... so you basically merged heat producing elements to your board thickening the wires and maybe doubling inductors capacitance... that way really you're limited by thickness of wiring, capacitors ESR, inductors capacitance, fet's power needs... (I'm doing same on original board's to raise amperage limit by adding simply extra diode somewhere and solder thickening routes, i'm using it to charge my scooter for months, now adding photovoltaic to my setup)
Do something really breaking conventions... maybe use graphene infused parts or try to make overengineered hybrid converter using one PWM and Schmitt Flip-Flop to drive two or more parallel interleaving converters to pulse connect they output capacitor in series though shottky diode to another capacitor then you're really almost limitless :)
PROTO android app is more than great to learn about electronics, especially converters!!!
Thanks for the wonderful feedback. 👍👍👍
We appreciate your honest and thoughtful comment!
What I showed in this video is quite the beginning of the concept. The over designed interleaved concept you mentioned in your 3rd paragraph is really the overarching vision of the limitless power concept....We are not planning to play with cutting-edge graphene infused technology that we literally cannot afford for now..lol
The idea behind the "limitless power" is to drive multiple converter systems using a synchronous control loop.
Now: The second part of the vision is not just to accomplish this but to accomplish it both reliably and affordably. My dream is to help people, and I will not build anything that only the rich can afford.
This, my friend, is the conundrum that we are dealing with.
We are still developing the concept and currently designing a board to capture all that we are talking about.
I mentioned this in a recent video.
👇👇👇
ruclips.net/video/vcY87smODeY/видео.htmlsi=ceWef7Zc1ydciyhE
Thanks again for sharing your honest opinion.
We greatly appreciate it.
Stay tuned.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab 💥
Is it possible to make it???
Yes, I made the one shown in the video, and I explained how to make it.
Please watch the full video.
Also, watch this one.
ruclips.net/video/D-ScEn57eHc/видео.htmlsi=aIAdKg_XChRlfyzn
The Innovati0n Lab
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
What is the inductor value.
Those are 20mH inductors, 10mH connector in parallel.
I have watched all the video, you didn't mention the value of the inductor.
Hi friend,
You are right. I believe those are 20mH inductors and connected in parallel, the resultant value is about 10mH. Essentially, those are the inductors that come with the 1800W boost converters.
I asked ChatGPT about step-up converters. result: ChatGPT
Here is a list of the components of the PWM circuit
DC voltage control
variable value from 20V to 100V, z
current up to 50A and output voltage
of 120V:
1. Microcontroller:
Name: STM32F407
Designation: U1
2. Power transistors:
Name: IRFP460
Designation: Q1, 02
3. Protection diode:
Name: 1N4148
Designation: D1, D2
4. Inductance:
Name: TDK VLS201612
Designation: L1
5.Capacitors:
Name: Panasonic EEH-ZK1E471P
Designation: C1,C2
6. Resistors:
Name: 10k ohms
Designation: R1, R2
7. Potentiometers:
Name: Bourns 3296W-1-103LF
Designation: P1, P2
8. Charger:
Name: Mean Well RSP-500-48
Designation: PS1
9. Cooling:
Name: Sunon MF40100V1
Designation: F1, F2
10. Thermal protection:
Name: LM35
Designation: U2
11. Security:
Name: Littlefuse 0218.500MRET1P
Designation: F3, F4
12. Voltage sensors:
Name: ZMPT101B
Designation: U3, U4
13. Current sensors:
Name: ACS712
Designation: U5, U6
14. Voltage regulation system:
Name: LM317
Designation: U7
15. Current regulation system:
Name: LM350
Designation: U8
16. Pomlar and Monitoring Items:
Name: INA219
Designation: U9, U10
17. Elements for galvanic isolation:
Name: HCPL-3120
Designation: U11, U12
18. Elements for protection against
surges:
Name: Varistor S10K250
Designation: VR1, VR2
19. Printed circuit board (PCB) and connectors:
Name: Custom PCB
Designation: PCB1
20. Housing:
Name: Hammond 1590B
Designation: CASE1
What your think about this?
Amazing, but it is still not smart enough to think like humans.👍👍
It looks like it basically gave you the Bill of Materials of PWM circuit from somewhere on the internet. I recognize a lot of the components because I have actually used them... like IRFP460 (N-Channel) MOSFET.
Anyways, you will have to find the datasheets of each of the listed components and study them, and this is the only way to know if they will be good for your design.
I hope this helps.
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab
can i contact you
Hello, my wonderful friend. I am deeply honored that you wanted to reach out. Unfortunately, due to personal reasons, we decided to keep all audience interactions here. Part of the reason is that we want to give every member of our audience the opportunity to learn and partake in our discussions and interactions.
However, sometime in the future, this could become possible as the channel grows.
What we can do is provide you with detailed feedback if you have a specific question. Also, we could answer your question by creating detailed content that would help point you in the right direction.
I hope this helps.
We appreciate you reaching out.
👍😎
-The Innovati0n Lab💥
Im working on building a 560pw dc dc boost converter
So I’d love to talk to you and maybe help eachother maybe through WhatsApp or messenger
Thanks a lot for wanting to connect. However, it will not be possible for me to do so at the moment.
The best I can do for now is to make a video of any specific subject that interests you regarding converters, ....design concepts, troubleshooting, testing, etc.
The plan is to grow the channel to a level where we could have memberships and maybe a Petreon account. At such time, we should be able to have more flexibility to interact with our audience.
Please stay tuned, friend!
👍😎
The Innovati0n Lab.