As usual, thanks for the thorough and extensive testing. Yeah, I agree that you need not provide a conclusion at the end of it. Someone watching through the entire video would be able to form their own thoughts from the results.
I use elegoo washable resin, I found that If the miniature is hollowed out and there is still a little bit of wet resin left inside, it will crack one day... one of my 8 cm female warrior her head was suddenly broken two days ago that looks like being headshot by a sniper rifle XD
Here's a video idea. How about doing a video on a shootout between the various resins you have tested? That way viewers can compare across brands, and choose the one that suit their needs.
Sorry for the out of topic question. What resin would you recommend for small prints? I printed with Esun eResin PLA Pro and their brittle. The only brands available locally in my country are Esun, Anycubic and Epax. Esun is the only brand with a lot of stocks though. Do I just buy Esun and mix with flex resin or try other brands?
Hi is there any way i could purchase one of your 3D printed 1/6 scale lightsabers(hole drilled) thats already painted by you? Saw your tutorial and i think your paint work is pretty well done!
After letting the models in water, if you let them dry thoroughly in the sun, will they became "hard" again as they were before soaking then in water? Will they "dry"?
What is the resin that has given you the best details dennys, I have read good reviews of this resin but I see that it has much longer exposure times than the normal ones.
Hello! i bought 3 bottles of conjure sculpt/tough/resin. I'm almost through with my bottle of sculpt. But all of my prints havi this strange residue on the outside that appears when you rub the print between printing and curing. Any tips on minimizing this residue?
Hi, I just bought a ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 4k, and other than the cube test file, I haven't been able to print anything else. I've had 5 failures so I'm seeking some help. What does prints the raft (or thing part of it) and a very thin portion the figure on the FEP. Is it possible I can you you my 2 working files and have a look at what I'm doing and if my config is ok? I've been doing my work on Lychee, which seems to put it's only config on it which doesn't work. I tried taking that file over to the PH64 but no luck. Or, is there a basic config setup that that 'should' be able to print from? Thanks,
@@wangdennys I sliced in Photon Workshop and have better luck today. Finally, my first ever 3D print :) I'm pretty certain, I had / used this config in Lychee but it only printed as above, a little on the plate and FEP. Layer Thickness(mm) 0.100 Normal Exposure Time(s) 2.000 Bottom Layer 6 Exposure Off/Ofttime(s) 0.500 Bottom Exposure 40 Bottom Layers: 6 I find, Lychee so easy to use but I guess, I'll continue and dwell more into the AC Photon Workshop slicer. :)
@dennys wang I do have a Q. Do I have to set my plate prior to every print ?? If I'm printing 4 exact items. Or, does removing the plate to remove the print de-calibrate it??
As usual, thanks for the thorough and extensive testing. Yeah, I agree that you need not provide a conclusion at the end of it. Someone watching through the entire video would be able to form their own thoughts from the results.
I use elegoo washable resin, I found that If the miniature is hollowed out and there is still a little bit of wet resin left inside, it will crack one day...
one of my 8 cm female warrior her head was suddenly broken two days ago that looks like being headshot by a sniper rifle XD
Yes
You need to cure the inside with tiny uv led
Generally, I prefer to use Sculpt Resin for modeling.
Jamg jamg jamg jamg - i love your videos :)
Here's a video idea. How about doing a video on a shootout between the various resins you have tested? That way viewers can compare across brands, and choose the one that suit their needs.
The duration will be too long
Hhahahahahahaha
Sorry for the out of topic question. What resin would you recommend for small prints? I printed with Esun eResin PLA Pro and their brittle. The only brands available locally in my country are Esun, Anycubic and Epax. Esun is the only brand with a lot of stocks though. Do I just buy Esun and mix with flex resin or try other brands?
Hi is there any way i could purchase one of your 3D printed 1/6 scale lightsabers(hole drilled) thats already painted by you? Saw your tutorial and i think your paint work is pretty well done!
Where is your location?
After letting the models in water, if you let them dry thoroughly in the sun, will they became "hard" again as they were before soaking then in water? Will they "dry"?
Yes,
I never try leave it under the sun, i just leave it in the workshop. But it takes like 2 weeks.
What is the resin that has given you the best details dennys, I have read good reviews of this resin but I see that it has much longer exposure times than the normal ones.
For now the best is phrozen aqua grey 8k
I'm using anycubic basic resin and its great, pretty cheap but breaks very easy.
This one seems much tougher, might get it if its not too expensive.
it's almost double anycubic grey at 1kg. probably best to buy some tougher resin and blend a bit into the anycubic to add toughness
@@EjDantes Could be worth to do that, when things break that is always more work and wasted resin.
nicee
Hello! i bought 3 bottles of conjure sculpt/tough/resin. I'm almost through with my bottle of sculpt. But all of my prints havi this strange residue on the outside that appears when you rub the print between printing and curing. Any tips on minimizing this residue?
Use clean ipa
And thoroughly wash it.
@@wangdennys what is your recommendation on washing time?
@@sjefkepoulussen2264 i wash manually. Never use wash and cure.
I wash till no resin drips.
What do you think if i use this resin for my dental lab work?
I dont think this is is bio safe
@@wangdennys Thanks. You can say that again.
Hi, I just bought a ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 4k, and other than the cube test file, I haven't been able to print anything else. I've had 5 failures so I'm seeking some help. What does prints the raft (or thing part of it) and a very thin portion the figure on the FEP. Is it possible I can you you my 2 working files and have a look at what I'm doing and if my config is ok? I've been doing my work on Lychee, which seems to put it's only config on it which doesn't work. I tried taking that file over to the PH64 but no luck. Or, is there a basic config setup that that 'should' be able to print from? Thanks,
Anycubic printer is not very user friendly when you use other slicer than photonworkshop imo.
So maybe try using photonworkshop?
@@wangdennys I sliced in Photon Workshop and have better luck today. Finally, my first ever 3D print :) I'm pretty certain, I had / used this config in Lychee but it only printed as above, a little on the plate and FEP.
Layer Thickness(mm) 0.100
Normal Exposure Time(s) 2.000
Bottom Layer 6
Exposure Off/Ofttime(s) 0.500
Bottom Exposure 40
Bottom Layers: 6
I find, Lychee so easy to use but I guess, I'll continue and dwell more into the AC Photon Workshop slicer. :)
@dennys wang I do have a Q. Do I have to set my plate prior to every print ?? If I'm printing 4 exact items. Or, does removing the plate to remove the print de-calibrate it??
@@richardlamer3910 you mean leveling build plate?
No, initial calibration
@@wangdennys Yes, the build plate. So, just the one time?
this kind of review is wasting time
Thank you for your time.
Do you have any better suggestion?
p͎r͎o͎m͎o͎s͎m͎ ✅