Etching Bronze Brass and Copper - Edinburgh Etch - PNP Blue Paper
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2020
- Here's what you need to know about etching bronze, brass, and copper easily and safely. Take your work to the next level with this skill that combines the use of PNP Blue Transfer Paper and a modified Ferric Chloride etching solution called an Edinburgh Etch. It sounds daunting, but it's really just a simple step by step process and you can even print your designs.
EDINBURGH ETCH ARTICLE
shorturl.at/dptBU
PNP BLUE ARTICLE
www.rings-things.com/pdf/86-2...
WHERE TO BUY PNP BLUE
Check your location for do it yourself electronics supply stores
If that doesn't work a quick search for press-n-peel blue transfer paper or pnp blue transfer paper
can come up with a bunch of different options for you.
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What do you think this technique would be perfect for right away? I'm thinking a book, nice square pieces on the cover, even on the spine. So many possibilities I'm excited to start incorporating into my work and I hope you guys do as well.
Usually I see plates like that on belts.
I do my acid etching quite a bit different. I've never gotten the toner to transfer effectively. I use my cricut to cut vinyl for my resist.
The vinyl tape that is electrical tape also works really well to mask off the edges beyond the vinyl adhesive stuff you buy out with the cricut.
I've done most of my etchings with muriotic acid. And it speeds up the process a whole lot to run a DC current through the piece. I usually punch a hole in the margins that will be trimmed off to suspend the piece by an exposed wire. Do the same for a sacrificial piece of metal that allows the circuit to complete.
The DC current blasts metal particles off quickly and they tend to at least partially flow to the sacrificial metal and kind of plate it. This cuts your etch time significantly. And will even make 20 minute etches into stainless steel deep enough to be wonderful after years of wear.
I'm curious why you didn't use the ammonia and salt method to patina the metals
@@randystull1502 Because I have Jax.
Bangles? Pretty straight forwards from what you’ve already made and would look great with your artwork, especially a Jellinge serpent.
If you had the patience, you could make a fairly epic lamellar vest.
More etch PLEASE. Really fun and informative. Thank you!
These are extremely beautiful. The combination of the celtic-ish sworl knots and the darkened metal patina is perfect. Am downloading, perspective correcting and vectorizing these myself for sure. Not to etch but mainly to try and get my head around this style.
Most talented! Beautiful pieces!
Wow these are great. Love that ancient Celtic look. Can't help but seeing in larger scale like 12"X48" installed on the front door. The process for me is a bit complicated but I am a graphic artist and really appreciate these. Thanks awesome video
im a newbie to this and it is so refreshing to hear you saying about the mistakes youve made rather than just blowing your own trumpet like a lot of others do
Thanks, try and keep it real. Hahaha
Loved the work ! The design is so elvish !!
Very clean job, beautiful! And a good tutorial
Great Video, you have a very nice way of showing your technique, it is easy to follow and so informative. Thank you !
Just watched this and your How did I get here video. Pretty cool the stuff you've done.
I've seen etching before, but not quite like this. The aged look you give the pieces at the end give them a nice look. Gives me ideas if I ever try it out myself. Thanks for sharing your work.
The results are very cool!
Gorgeous work!
I used to use Press & Peel Blue for circuit boards. I also used Ferric Chloride. I found that a laminator used for laminating documents do a great job of laying down the P&P. To make the Ferric Chloride more active, I added a small amount of Muriatic Acid. I used an old microwave oven to heat the etchant. Acetone works great for removing the toner. I like your idea of using the floating technique, very clever.
These instructions are SO well done and concise. I’m gonna watch it again just to analyze why it’s so good. Thanks just doesn’t cut it for this video.
I really appreciate it. Sometimes it's hard to find a happy balance between informative and nap time.
Very cool, great work! Would love to give this a try one day!
Awesome work as always!
I doubt you remember my last message about wanting to start working with leather because of you but I finally made my first bracelet and put the final touches on it today. It's ugly, but I made it and I'm really excited to keep making more. Thank you!
Pleased to have you along, I can't place the message but my memory is just poor in general. Be sure to send your work to info at darkhorseworkshop.com so I can have a look!
Very inspiring . loved this
Stunning!! Thank you!
Awesome! I'd love to try this!
Man that is some nice stuff👌
Love your work
Very cool looking project! I do occasional PCBs with similar, though with heated Ferric Chloride it only takes a short while to get through the copper. Try a Value Village page laminator, a couple passes once preheated should stick the toner to the surface very securely. Also, acetone for cleaning pre and post, toner literally melts off the surface with it. I love that patina you're getting with those!
They all turned out good ! but I agree the deeper etched ones look better.
That is a beautiful job of etching. Looks pretty easy but I do need some safety gear. The motifs turned out so clearly etched with fine details. Very nice job of JAX patina too. I have just bought some JAX and hope to use it soon. Thank you for a lovely demo, very enjoyable. I left some safety info below for novices like me.
How beautiful is that!!!!!
Wow, that's all beautiful. Congratulations on your success. And thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. :)
Great video! Thanks for the tips!
Cheers
That was pretty amazing
Thanks for the video! It would be awesome if you could show the process using sterling silver also.
to protect the back of the surface you can use a varnish to cover it. i have seen people use nail polish/varnish as the colour helps to see the coverage. and of course it removes easily with acetone etc
Awesome video as always. Every time I watch your videos I immediately get my shit together and do an unfinished project
Nice job, man! I try to etch many times, but the only problem always was the transfer of the drawing to metal. Never heard of this type of paper, should to try it. Thanks for tips!
Thank you for this!
Hi, try electroetch with salt water plus (car) battery charger dc current source. From all the etching methods, this is the one I use most.
Works best if you put a ring of perforated air tube weighted with lead on the bottom of the etch tank, use fish tank airpump to provide the airflow through the tubes.
Very good lesson and very easy on the eyes 😁
Copier/Laser Printer/Laser fax technician here. Toner is basically plastic (with a few other additives) that melts at about 400 degrees F. The last step of these machines is to melt the toner onto the paper. That's why the heat on the hot plate transfers the toner to the brass plate. The Brother later printers toner may have an additive that doesn't work to well with your transfer paper and that is why people may not have the best results with it. I would also try warmer heat setting to see if you get better transfer of the toner to the brass plate. After neutralizing the etching fluid you might want to try some lacquer thinner to remove the toner. Any solvents that I used when cleaning a machine seemed to melt the toner and greatly help in the removal of the toner. Might work better than sanding and be quicker and easier. and may be worth a try since you are still experimenting . Great video.
You can use automotive vinyl. The air lift versions work extremely well if surfaces are level sanded and cleaned
Well done sir!
Well done 👏👏👏, fantastic job 👌👌👌
Awesome work dude
Thanks!
Those are awesome
i like that top left one
thanks dude youre amazing
Very Cool
For better agitation try using an aquarium air pump and run plastic tubing to a stone aerator and submerge in the acid bath.
Tank you!!!
You might want to investigate etching in print making. We use a resist called asphaltum which is thinned and ultimately removed with paint thinner.
I used phosphor bronze and thought something went wrong when I saw a layer of white gunk on the surface of the metal. I think it was the phosphorous interacting with the acid. The etch came out beautifully, though.
awesome video thank you.... good job
Glad you liked it!
Insider tip for Edinburgh pronunciation, phonetically its Edin burr ruh.
I have a feeling looking at your work you’d enjoy Scotland and the islands......assuming you haven’t been here already.
Thanks for your generosity sharing your knowledge.🦊
Had a spelling brain fart and didn't even connect the word to the place.
You can use sharpie pens for a resist also, dont be afraid to add an extra thick coat on the top.
I need to do this to get some plates with turtles on them for my old steamer truck.
Nice video....
wow that is cool , love it :-)
I remember Radio Shack selling a kit like this to make circuit boards
I used PNP blue for a long time for etching PCB's. They work the best if you get a cheap laminator.
Never tried that.. Thanks for the info. :)
Usually I see plates like that on belts.
I do my acid etching quite a bit different. I've never gotten the toner to transfer effectively. I use my cricut to cut vinyl for my resist.
The vinyl tape that is electrical tape also works really well to mask off the edges beyond the vinyl adhesive stuff you buy out with the cricut.
I've done most of my etchings with muriotic acid. And it speeds up the process a whole lot to run a DC current through the piece. I usually punch a hole in the margins that will be trimmed off to suspend the piece by an exposed wire. Do the same for a sacrificial piece of metal that allows the circuit to complete.
The DC current blasts metal particles off quickly and they tend to at least partially flow to the sacrificial metal and kind of plate it. This cuts your etch time significantly. And will even make 20 minute etches into stainless steel deep enough to be wonderful after years of wear.
Ya, these are for belts for sure. After I've done a bunch of these I may try some vinyl or electricity but figured this would be a great safe first etching project for people. Sometimes things like "oh just run a current through it" will make people never even try it, I know I'd get a little skitish doing things like that. :)
@@DarkHorseWorkshop I completely understand that. I kinda worked up to it with methods similar to what you put in this video first. but a little $50 DC power supply off amazon has served me pretty well for a few belt plates, pendants, a crown, a few etched hammers, and a book plate all in steel.
If you are willing to give it some time you can even forgo the acid and just use salt water. For that method you can basically hook up the aligator clip from the power supply to the metal you are working with and something like a cotton makeup pad in the other clip. Dip it in the salt water and just hold it to the metal where you want to etch. This is better for small areas like a logo on a knife blade.
@@DarkHorseWorkshop I actually use a rectifier for both copper plating and for electric etching. it works amazingly. I've even etched knives and Axes with the rectifier and salt water.
If you want the blues and greens in a patina, you can use the ancient “piss ‘n vinegar” method. Mix some ammonia with a small amount of vinegar and saturate some saw dust to place on your brass or bronze piece (keep inside a container since the fumes aren’t healthy) and allow it to oxidize over a few days or even weeks. Works well.
If you have issues using chemicals, you can use cut vinyl as a resist and use a sandblaster to etch the metal.
Use a clothes Iron almost at the maximum temperature for 30 seconds and press hard special the edges, so the PNP blue paper make the job very even, the same method that used to transfer the toner "laser" ink to cooper pcb board.
i used simple antler horn to transfer the template becasue i accidently scored when rubbing on the sheet with the steel thing you had.
I would really suggest investing in an iron or a laminator. I've seen pnp blue being used to make pcbs with zero voids or imperfections in the resist. Haven't tried it myself, only direct toner transfer, which is a pain in the backside.
fantastic... could u leave the imperfections at the start to make it look more oldy worldy?
do u put some sort of clear coat or something to keep them looking good?
great video mate... liked and subbed.
been watching your leather work videos ( i get mesmerized and lose hours watching them) and have purchased some patterns from your etsy shop. Saw this video and had to try it. Used copper instead of Brass, and instead of ferric acid, i used muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide for my etchant. Also i saw another video where they used a cricut machine to cut their design from vinyl, so when i didn't have the pnp paper and i did have a cricut i tried that. It all worked very well. Still experimenting with how long to float the copper in the acid. One thing i saw from your video was the small metal brake. where did you get that? I'm struggling to make nice clean straight cuts without bending the metal. Keep doing the etching, i can't wait to see what you make next
Very nice. Lbelong to India.
Those would make a great business as custom door push plates.
Really cool. You might try clear packaging tape instead of duct tape.
Hi Stallion, nice demonstration of etching. Never given it a thought but you make it look so easy, I should give it a try. By the way, Edinburgh is pronounced “Ed-in-burra”. Cheers.
Windex works great to neutralize also.
The worked great! what was the hydrogen peroxide strength percentage? (Not the mix ratio)
Brother printers are less effective as they typically use LED strips instead of a laser so the toner density is not as high, but it also depends on the transfer film- some brands will retain more toner and transfer it better.. I use a Canon laser and a regular clothes iron for transfer.
Use a sharpie marker on the edges too especially along the tape seam
I've done this on Sterling silver using paint and hand etching.. but this method is so much more efficient. I want to go use this method on some of our builds.
Try Citra Solve to clean off the etch quickly
Hello, was there any final decision of what determined the better etching? The resist or the mix of the acid?
You should try electro etching, so much easier and you don't need to float things.
I'm sure I'll try that some time, not sure how much easier it can be unless you just mean getting it to etch faster, for sure. But this video is aimed at getting people to try etching with few obstacles. It's amazing what a little word like 'electro' will do to peoples courage for trying new things. ;)
Buenos dias..una pregunta..es lo mismo el paper pnb blue que el amarillo??
It s the same the blue pnb paper than the yellow one??
Gracias.y buen dia
The bubbles in the transfer might be because of the small tools you're using to burnish with. Using an old credit card as a sort of squeegee first, might help reduce that. Might still want to use the tools after getting the bubbles out, tho'
(Disclaimer - I haven't used this on anything that *hot* - but it's good for other types of transfer so, it's worth a try)
"I'm going to use bronze because when etching I want to use the most expensive and difficult to find metal in my city." ROFLMAO! So sassy 😂
Where I work, we throw away (scrap) probably 100 lbs of bronze a day. They won’t let us take or buy any of it.
@@brainwashingdetergent4322 Sounds like you need raid the bin when nobody is looking.
Magnus, do you have any tips to stop your leather from stretching out of shape while tooling?
Maybe be im just a little heavy handed or i could be missing something 🤔
Being Scottish, I'm sorry but I had chills at the way you said Edinburgh. It's pronounced Edin-buru (bu as in butt and ru as in rutt)
try use inkjet photo paper in the laser printer. i use this to make high dense printed circuit boards. its the same process the steps are the same... i use a simple cloth iron to fuse it.
maybe try the soapy water trick like all the other vinyl stickers? it might work easier idk
Great Video. It is great video because it shows that this craft is within the reach of the average person.
I wonder if it be practical to use a vinyl cutter (Cricket, Shelot
Totally a vinyl cutter is another way I've heard of for sure. I may play with that myself some time.
Q: What is 'to vectorize artwork'?
A: For those that don't know what this means, like me.... Vector artwork is art that's made up of vector graphics using software such as Adobe. The original artwork is processed by software that makes a note of the points, lines, curves and shapes, and create mathematical ratios between them and resulting formulas. Then, when you want to enlarge or shrink this image for use on a bigger or smaller item, you can do easily from the computer without redrawing by hand. Smart way to reuse an image over and over again. When you scale (enlarge or shrink) a vector image file, it isn't low resolution and there's no loss of quality, so it can be sized to however large or small you need it to be. This is much sharper than resizing a picture using Microsoft Paint, or PowerPoint, or MS Word. This is the pro version. Prior to this video, I did not know this. I learned something new and thought others should understand what this process is.
This stuff is toxic, corrosive, and potentially explosive. I've never worked with it, but researched it. Read on for safety tips...
1. To make it safe for disposal, you can add sodium carbonate (washing soda) or sodium hydroxide to neutralize it, until the pH value goes up to between 7.0 and 8.0, testing it with indicator paper. Have the indicator paper handy. Have Baking Soda handy. Either Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate) or Washing Soda (sodium carbonate) will neutralize the acid, make it non-corrosive. After adding the soda and water, check with your Litmus indicator paper for alkalinity between 7-8 pH. Once it is that pH, then you can flush it down the drain. Neutralizing this will create CO2 Carbon Dioxide, so work outdoors.
2. Is ferric chloride a hazardous chemical?
Ferric chloride reacts with most metals to give flammable, potentially explosive hydrogen gas. Latent fire and explosion hazard when in contact with metals due to hydrogen gas. Work in well ventilated places and wear a chemical mask. Do not damage your sensitive lung tissue. Cover eyes with goggles that seal off air, not just safety glasses. The fumes can burn eyes. Even if you work outdoors, WEAR PROTECTION - Googles, chemical mask, gloves, apron. See SDS. Don't be macho about this. You only have one body in life, and it cannot be taken to a garage to get parts replaced. Don't take shortcuts.
Safety Data Sheet (SDS) on Ferric Chloride: www.vanderbilt.edu/vinse/facilities/safety_data_sheets/Ferric_chloride_iron_trichloride_FeCl3.pdf
have you tied using a laminating machine to transfer the ink??
How deep an etch is possible? I'm interested in making a branding iron for Woodworking. I know they'll be a bit of an undercut after a bit.
Although you may not have any further steps in etching the metal, surely you have some purpose in mind for those pieces....like attaching them to leather, etc. I was disappointed that you stopped at the point that you did...
Would love to see you etch Brass or Copper and place it as an inlay in leather!!!
I'm giving them away to friends as belt plates, and have put one on a belt of mine. There will be more videos with etching, where I use them in projects. This was just a LOOK WHAT I CAN DO! :)
Try using a toothbrush and Comet to clean your piece after etching. It works well for me. Good luck-
Oh thanks for the tip
Would this work on metal like, thin tin, or aluminum even????
Use Acetone to remove the resist film after etching.
can we freestyle with a sharpie in place of a Faber-Castell pen? Would that work?
I've asked Edinburgh to change the spelling of their City to Edinburough so I don't feel as dumb, that is all.
Dark Horse Workshop why? It’s pronounced “Edinburra” and not difficult, but you North American’s have problems with our capital city’s pronunciation 🤣🤣🤣
Love your videos, by the way
I didn't even connect the dots that it was talking about the city, which I totally pronounce like Edinburra when talking about it. Hahahaha.
Dark Horse Workshop 😂 😂 I have daily doses of brain farts, don’t worry.
If you read this, could you recommend a very basic set of tools for a beginner on a very tight budget? Just enough to make a few wallets etc. Nothing like some of the really intricate stuff you do. I’ve recently fallen into this but as I say, my budget is extremely low.
@@UmBungo I have a few tool set links in the description of my videos as well as off of my amazon storefront. Lonsdale Leather also has a few beginner sets. After a quick look this one might be good, but I've never actually bought a kit. Seems to have a reasonable assortment of tools though, pricing is odd shows 59, but then the link shows 180 so tell me if it's 59: amzn.to/318fY1M
@@DarkHorseWorkshop ///which I totally pronounce like Edinburra when talking about it.///
Edin-burra is not wrong, but if you want to say it like a native, it's shortened a little further to Edin-bruh.
Here's another: Loughborough is pronounced Luff-bruh. We do it just to mess with Americans. :D
brother laser printers work fine but need extra care with the transfer. use a laminator and make several passes through the machine. I have also used many types of transfer paper an found the simplest is to use regular paper and print like you normally would. once you have run it through the laminator a few times let it cool then run it under water and rub the paper off with your finger till you only have the transfer left on your cooper. you can also use a cheap aquarium pump and an air stone to keep your etching moving around. this will speed up the etch.
can it be without transfer from the logo, with a self-image using what ink
Great Video, what thickness Copper do you recommend?
That's just totally project based... you can etch any thickness. I think these were 18 gauge
How deep into the metal can an etching go?
Look up DIY PCB toner transfer on youtube this method used to etch electronic PCB boards should work and be easier, basically with the same result.
Wouldn't acetone be a less destructive way to remove the resist?
I thought so too.
Just use a vinyl cuter and use vynil. It work just perfect to prevent the acid etching it
Great idea for people with vynil cutters.
I would have left the imperfections. They were just perfect.
I agree. Makes it look older.