This makes so much sense. I have a 2000 Chevy prizm. Corolla more or less. I replaced cause the o ring was leaking oil. Bought a factory part. After a week I had to replace the valve cover gasket for another reason and noticed the timing chain was loose as shit. This makes so much sense why there’s no tension being applied. Thanks so much dude!
Extremely helpful video. Thank you for posting. I saw the video which you are talking about, and did exactly what he said. I started that truck up when i was done and it rattled like a dad gun diesel! Didn't know what happened, thought the timing might have got screwed up or something. Now that I've found this, I've once again got hope!
VERY informative. I think i saw the same video you mentioned, He didnt prime the tensioners at all.Thank you for the information and how to do them. Great job
Good info. I installed new water pump and timing chain in February, adding no oil to the tensioner, thinking it would fill immediately within one crank of the engine. Turned the crank by hand one full turn, and jumped two teeth, in that one slow full turn. Thought the spring tension and ratchet would be plenty. Sure glad I didn't bolt it together and start it. Good Job!
Thanks because I am about to change my front and back tensioners and I needed that advice. Keep it coming. Hopefully I will one day be able to invite you down to Long Isalnd, The Bahamas for some bone fishing.
Can't you just press on the gas and cycle the engine a few times before you actually start it? That would cause the tensioner to prime without having to do it manually before install.
Really no need to prime tensioner this way, if you want than go ahead. To save time disconnect your fuel pump relay or fuse. Turn over your engine a few times and let the oil pump do its job and prime the tensioner that way. Saves time.
@@lawpenner hey I didn't say the process was wrong but there is another way to do it. When you put the tensioner in you are suppose to activate it. By activating the tensioner it puts enough tension on the chain to prime ( turn the engine ). It only takes a half of second for the oil to pump into the tensioner.
All I can say is after priming it is difficult to put in. It is under load when installing.. You have to push it in with a good amount of pressure while turning. I noticed without priming they seemed to prime with car running. When I pulled unprimed tensioner out next day. (20 min of driving) they seemed to be primed on their own.
On a engine that doesn't get regular oil changes the oil pressure port for the tensioner clogs up and it does not receive enough oil to prime it's self is one of the signs the the engine had good oil pressure in the bottom end but not the top for cams and tensioners Seafoam products can help for this by the way wear gloves when working with petroleum products your girlfriend will appreciate it
Yeah, prime it to a full extension, screw it in and then you have a new problem a chain guides wear out. Tensioner has to prime it self so it adjusts to the chain strecth with no more force then an oil pressure.
That would serve no purpose. The tensioner fills with oil as the engine runs. If you don't start your car for a few days, the oil will come out of the tensioner; that's what the spring is for - to take up the slack until the oil gets in. But if you're getting start-up rattle, the spring is worn and not doing its job. Tensioners are hard enough to get back in with just the spring tension. Prime it up firm with oil and risk cross-threading when you try and put it in! You can 'prime' the tensioner by flooring the accelerator before turning the ignition, and cranking the engine for a few seconds. Only use OEM tensioners. So many people say they replaced with aftermarket ones and then had rattle ALL the time!
Is the way to do a mercedes c180 w204.46 timing chain tensioner. Ive changed to cam shaft adjustor and put in a new tensioner but it keeps going out of timing due to the timing chain is still slack 😑 David
James Boudreaux The inlet on top near the nut head must correspond with the oil channel on the motor. Otherwise the oil will not keep constant pressure to the tensioner, use proper torque specs to do this. Not enough torque they will leak and too much will damage the guides.
Nick Glenn so they won't prime there self and what is the torque specs bcz I hear 36ft pounds mine don't leak I have a noise but it don't sound like chain slap
hello, the oil that is put on the tensioner is a sae10w, but is it the same oil that you put on a fork? Could you clarify me? I have doubts about it, thank you
Does this apply to the tensioner on the GM 2.4 Ecotec on a Pontiac Solstice. Mine is starting to make a occasional metalic rattle sound for a second at cold start.
He could have “over-primed” the tensioner, which could potentially crack the guides when he put it in, as there’s no room for the tensioner to yield when the chain has reached its 100% tension. Letting the engine prime itself won’t have this issue!
if you prime it, wouldn't you be putting too much pressure on the chain when you screw in the tensioner, I'm sure the job of the tensioner is just to take up the chain slack, if there is no give on the tensioner then you're just putting too much strain on the chain.
Dude! My 2008 2.7 charger made really loud timing chain noise a few days after an oil change and now it's been fine for a few days. Here's what happened I started it fine it ran great I drove across town then stopped the car, ten minutes later I started it up and Tika Tika Tika Tika Tika Tika I was like whoa how did it suddenly get so bad? Then I realized that it's probably the timing chain noise and I gave it a little gas and the terrible noise went away completely.. then when I stopped the car and started it at the next place it made the noise again. So I went home and parked it. The next day? Same thing it started fine I'm assuming because the oil pressure was high on start up then after one stop it did it again. And the noise lasted the whole way home. Now it hasn't done it in a few days and I drive everywhere. It it possible that sludge caused this? Or what any ideas? Leaking tentioner maybe from sludge? Ideas?
Allen Sharako 2.7 tensioner is a known problem. Your way to fix it is to replace it. It's normal on Startup or a little bit after startup. that goes for a lot of hydraulic tensioner but after the engine is ran it should remain quiet. If you replace a chains on a 2.7. For the tensioner you might as well do the water pump as well which is also a known problem. Little noise on Startup is okay after it's been sitting overnight. All Ford's do this and a lot of other makes and models. little noise on Startup is considered normal
Nate Figueroa I ended up doing the chain.. Thanks! I have a 2004 yown car and it makes a light chain noise maybe untill its warmed up.. Thats what I thought it was anyway. Everyone says its normal bla bla bla. I did try some put octane booster in it though and it seemed like the noise diminished alot. Its hard to believe the slight rattle would be pinging but I also has an o2 sensor code come up.. So could it just be the fuel air mixture is a bit off and its pinging after all?
On the 2.7 tensioner you have to put it in dry you bleed it through the ball in the back of check ball and then then you can press all the way down so it locks and then release it after you install it by prying back on it and then it will Spring tension on the chain guide
I think *Jose* meant a gasket, seal or washer *sgriggstn* and yes, there is a very narrow metal washer that came with my cloyes and was stuck to my old, original tensioners. it's what leaves a narrow round mark on the head around the hole. if using a new washer then you torque to 32 ft lbs. if reusing the old one, which always ends up stuck to the tensioner and you will not notice it unless you're looking for it, it gets torqued to a higher amount. .
@@donaldfafard how did the job end. I just bought a cloyes and slapped it in without priming first. Pulled it back out and just primed it. I have to finish install after work tomorrow.
i allready primed my tensioner and yet im still watching this video !
great job man you saved me so much time and money
This makes so much sense. I have a 2000 Chevy prizm. Corolla more or less. I replaced cause the o ring was leaking oil. Bought a factory part. After a week I had to replace the valve cover gasket for another reason and noticed the timing chain was loose as shit. This makes so much sense why there’s no tension being applied. Thanks so much dude!
Extremely helpful video. Thank you for posting. I saw the video which you are talking about, and did exactly what he said. I started that truck up when i was done and it rattled like a dad gun diesel! Didn't know what happened, thought the timing might have got screwed up or something. Now that I've found this, I've once again got hope!
so what was the result, *motoforlyfe*?
did you remove and prime and replace the SAME tensioner and did it work?
.
VERY informative. I think i saw the same video you mentioned, He didnt prime the tensioners at all.Thank you for the information and how to do them. Great job
Good info. I installed new water pump and timing chain in February, adding no oil to the tensioner, thinking it would fill immediately within one crank of the engine. Turned the crank by hand one full turn, and jumped two teeth, in that one slow full turn. Thought the spring tension and ratchet would be plenty. Sure glad I didn't bolt it together and start it. Good Job!
If the spring is there for keeping tension on cold start, why prime it?
The manual does not call for prime.
The torque spec is 32 lb-ft. Not 60 ft-lb
Thanks because I am about to change my front and back tensioners and I needed that advice. Keep it coming. Hopefully I will one day be able to invite you down to Long Isalnd, The Bahamas for some bone fishing.
Great advice BEFORE you install the tensioners... Mike in LA, Calif, USA
Can't you just press on the gas and cycle the engine a few times before you actually start it? That would cause the tensioner to prime without having to do it manually before install.
Really no need to prime tensioner this way, if you want than go ahead. To save time disconnect your fuel pump relay or fuse. Turn over your engine a few times and let the oil pump do its job and prime the tensioner that way. Saves time.
Thanks there needs to be a bullshits trainer on RUclips
Wouldn't it be better to have proper tension on the chain Before you start cycling the engine?
@@lawpenner hey I didn't say the process was wrong but there is another way to do it. When you put the tensioner in you are suppose to activate it. By activating the tensioner it puts enough tension on the chain to prime ( turn the engine ). It only takes a half of second for the oil to pump into the tensioner.
@@bossman8231 do you think it may make sense to Prime the tensioner HALF-full of oil rather than totally full and taught
All I can say is after priming it is difficult to put in. It is under load when installing.. You have to push it in with a good amount of pressure while turning. I noticed without priming they seemed to prime with car running. When I pulled unprimed tensioner out next day. (20 min of driving) they seemed to be primed on their own.
why didn't I watch this video first, putting it in was a breeze ,but, redoing was the kicker.glad I didn't throw the old one away
On a engine that doesn't get regular oil changes the oil pressure port for the tensioner clogs up and it does not receive enough oil to prime it's self is one of the signs the the engine had good oil pressure in the bottom end but not the top for cams and tensioners Seafoam products can help for this by the way wear gloves when working with petroleum products your girlfriend will appreciate it
Thanks mate good advise - will do this in my mini
thanks for showing the vedio.lot of help.
Yeah, prime it to a full extension, screw it in and then you have a new problem a chain guides wear out. Tensioner has to prime it self so it adjusts to the chain strecth with no more force then an oil pressure.
WooooooW! Thank you!
I'm not following. Can I primer the old tensioner?
That would serve no purpose.
The tensioner fills with oil as the engine runs.
If you don't start your car for a few days, the oil will come out of the tensioner; that's what the spring is for - to take up the slack until the oil gets in.
But if you're getting start-up rattle, the spring is worn and not doing its job.
Tensioners are hard enough to get back in with just the spring tension.
Prime it up firm with oil and risk cross-threading when you try and put it in!
You can 'prime' the tensioner by flooring the accelerator before turning the ignition, and cranking the engine for a few seconds.
Only use OEM tensioners. So many people say they replaced with aftermarket ones and then had rattle ALL the time!
@@BWater-yq3jx Thanks for the heads up.
Is the way to do a mercedes c180 w204.46 timing chain tensioner.
Ive changed to cam shaft adjustor and put in a new tensioner but it keeps going out of timing due to the timing chain is still slack 😑
David
Thank u so much!!! u da man !!! Makes sense.
When you go to compress it again to put pin in it to install the chain do you think it will still be primed?
I cannot get the new tensioner to prime to the point of being stiff like your tensioner. What am I doing wrong?
After installing them label your spark plugs wires and pull them off your coil pack then crank the motor a few times this will pressureize them
or floor the accelerator before turning the ignition.
that you for the knowledge
youre my hero!!!
The esay way is to push and hold it down until you see bubbles, when you see bubbles repeat push and hold until its primed.
when you screw the new tensioners in, does the little hole in the tensioner have to line up with the hole in the block?
Nope!
James Boudreaux The inlet on top near the nut head must correspond with the oil channel on the motor. Otherwise the oil will not keep constant pressure to the tensioner, use proper torque specs to do this. Not enough torque they will leak and too much will damage the guides.
Nick Glenn so they won't prime there self and what is the torque specs bcz I hear 36ft pounds mine don't leak I have a noise but it don't sound like chain slap
So you deactivate it, like you are to install it...then pump the oil in correct?
We are currently trying to prime our tensioners. The rear one got rock hard. The front one had bubbles come out but isn't hard. Is that a problem?
My mechanic never primed it, could he remove and prime and install same tensioner back?
How long do these tensioners last?
Yup, I did the same thing...didn't prime mine either.
hello, the oil that is put on the tensioner is a sae10w, but is it the same oil that you put on a fork? Could you clarify me? I have doubts about it, thank you
Does this apply to the tensioner on the GM 2.4 Ecotec on a Pontiac Solstice.
Mine is starting to make a occasional metalic rattle sound for a second at cold start.
why prime it up won't the engine do that it's self? yes / no
the mechanic
Yeah I just put it in dry same with lifters the oil Prime's it up no need to Prime any hydraulic tensioner or a lifter.
He could have “over-primed” the tensioner, which could potentially crack the guides when he put it in, as there’s no room for the tensioner to yield when the chain has reached its 100% tension. Letting the engine prime itself won’t have this issue!
god bless you
if you prime it, wouldn't you be putting too much pressure on the chain when you screw in the tensioner, I'm sure the job of the tensioner is just to take up the chain slack, if there is no give on the tensioner then you're just putting too much strain on the chain.
Dude! My 2008 2.7 charger made really loud timing chain noise a few days after an oil change and now it's been fine for a few days. Here's what happened I started it fine it ran great I drove across town then stopped the car, ten minutes later I started it up and Tika Tika Tika Tika Tika Tika I was like whoa how did it suddenly get so bad? Then I realized that it's probably the timing chain noise and I gave it a little gas and the terrible noise went away completely.. then when I stopped the car and started it at the next place it made the noise again. So I went home and parked it. The next day? Same thing it started fine I'm assuming because the oil pressure was high on start up then after one stop it did it again. And the noise lasted the whole way home. Now it hasn't done it in a few days and I drive everywhere. It it possible that sludge caused this? Or what any ideas? Leaking tentioner maybe from sludge? Ideas?
Allen Sharako 2.7 tensioner is a known problem. Your way to fix it is to replace it. It's normal on Startup or a little bit after startup. that goes for a lot of hydraulic tensioner but after the engine is ran it should remain quiet. If you replace a chains on a 2.7. For the tensioner you might as well do the water pump as well which is also a known problem. Little noise on Startup is okay after it's been sitting overnight. All Ford's do this and a lot of other makes and models. little noise on Startup is considered normal
Nate Figueroa I ended up doing the chain.. Thanks! I have a 2004 yown car and it makes a light chain noise maybe untill its warmed up.. Thats what I thought it was anyway. Everyone says its normal bla bla bla. I did try some put octane booster in it though and it seemed like the noise diminished alot. Its hard to believe the slight rattle would be pinging but I also has an o2 sensor code come up.. So could it just be the fuel air mixture is a bit off and its pinging after all?
Yes I got in a hurry and cleaned my tensioner out to get all contaminated oil out well I forgot to prime it was and first time I failed on timing .
Disculpen soy de Mexico me podrían decir como saber si en tensor hidrhilico est bueno
So basically it’s open loop system and you need to get rid of any air in the tensioner .
Mucho Bueno amigo
so what your saying they will not prime there self?
I changed mine but didnt prime it first will that cause it to hit my gasket cover?
is this only for the ford explorer or is this also necessary on a 2006 chrysler 300 2.7 tensioner?
On the 2.7 tensioner you have to put it in dry you bleed it through the ball in the back of check ball and then then you can press all the way down so it locks and then release it after you install it by prying back on it and then it will Spring tension on the chain guide
May I put it on without gasquet?
Jose Acevedo Acevedo there is no gasket. That's part of the reason you have to torque it down.
Thanks for your answer
I think *Jose* meant a gasket, seal or washer *sgriggstn* and yes, there is a very narrow metal washer that came with my cloyes and was stuck to my old, original tensioners.
it's what leaves a narrow round mark on the head around the hole.
if using a new washer then you torque to 32 ft lbs.
if reusing the old one, which always ends up stuck to the tensioner and you will not notice it unless you're looking for it, it gets torqued to a higher amount.
.
@@donaldfafard how did the job end. I just bought a cloyes and slapped it in without priming first. Pulled it back out and just primed it. I have to finish install after work tomorrow.
Dylan Barngrover did it help?
got two different tensioner and I couldn't prime it
One of mine primed up well. The other did not. I think the ones that don't prime are no good. Anyone have this experience?
hey *Michael Cipriati*, I only got a partial message in my email notifications.
I put a new one in and it leaks